In this video I'll show you how I lubricate the internal parts of my Smith & Wesson revolver. I didn't say it was the BEST way, but this is how I do it and it works for me.
I would like to add some advice to this video. Before you remove the sideplate, back off the strain screw from the mainspring. When the sideplate is on, those pivot posts, especially the hammer pivot post, is supported from two sides, the frame side and the sideplate side. With the sideplate removed, all of that tension provided by the mainspring is held on that pivot post from only one side. It is possible to bend the post or even break it off of the frame. A very small amount of tension is all you need to hold the parts together and to function test (and see) the action with the sideplate off. I sort of cringe when I see a part being pried off from the frame. If you jam a screwdriver between the rebound block (or slide) and the frame, you can gouge scratches into either or both parts. Brownells sells a nice tool that compresses that strong spring to let you gently lift up the rebound block. As long as you have the rebound block out of the frame, you can replace that spring with one with a lower compression strength. Buy a few extra springs as I guarantee that you will eventually launch one into the deepest darkest corner of your room. Otherwise, a very nice presentation.
So, using this video and your Wolff springs video I was able to update my 617-6 with a Wolff spring kit and thoroughly clean and lube it. Couldn't have done it without you, thanks. In this video you mentioned some places that you had polished. Hoping you would comment or even do a video on how and what to polish to smooth things out. Wish Wolff would include the set screw. I went to 3 stores before I found the right one.
I use a larger Phillips and the post fits pretty good in the "groove" and push and push down with the other hand until the spring catches on the post and then push it on down with a small flat screwdriver...
Thank you. I have a 686 Plus. I am getting ready to install replacement trigger bar & striker pin / springs from TKC and I want to take it “all the way down”. I’m no expert but a 40 year aircraft turbine tech and I have a pretty good gunsmith area set up. A was considering using Otis dry lube back here or even dry graphite spray grease on certain friction points. 12:25 Would love your input on that please. Thanks again; your video is now my “official” “how to” video. Wish me luck but please reply with suggestions & comments. Thanks… Gene
Yes I was going to mention the phillips head screwdriver--the "channel" in the bit allows it to go over the post---it will at least catch the post then I use a small screwdriver to push the spring on down...
Can you please share some information on this firearm. I jus purchased a older 38 special s/w 67-6 . It also has the Floating firing pin . I am Seeking information and You Kinda look like your up on your Game . Thank you . carl
About 500 rounds I feel a difference when using oil…have to try grease. Oil is slicker initially….but does last as long. Use synthetic for cold, or if you are going to store for a while. Petroleum grease will get gummy over time. I switched to synthetic as my everyday…
You could mention to people not to remove the hand from the trigger. You did not do it in the vid but people should know that if you do there's a tiny torsion spring inside the trigger that applies pressure to the hand that's a real PITA to get back in place correctly.
FYI If it's a Smith & Wesson it's a "Yoke" if it's almost any other revolver it's a Crane. That's if we are using the correct Nomenclature. LMFIAO Best part about a wheel gun is it's hard for the lubricants to attract any carbon unlike a Semi-auto pistol. Also if you run out of cartridges you can always use it as a club, can't do that with Polymer guns.
I just used your tutorial on my Dad's 1965 Model 17 K22 Masterpiece. It was really stiff when i used it last weekend. It was purchased new by his Dad as a high school graduation gift. Oh my gosh, is this revolver smooth again. I asked him if he had ever had it serviced or ever had its sideplate off. He said he took the plate off once, looked at it, and was afraid to take it apart any further for fear of messing it up, so he put it back and never touched those screws again. Thank you so much for the step by step instructions.
Just had to replace that tiny spring on my “cylinder stop” (S&W “Model 603”) and man you were correct that was not easy to get back into place. The original factory finally wore out (1981 S/N) and the original “cylinder stop” had developed an odd burr on the lip of the hole the spring sits in. Pistol was not functioning correctly in DA mode (misfiring every 10-12 rounds) but was fine is SA. Clearly this created a timing issue due to the tension on the “cylinder stop” not being within ideal spec. I opted for “factory new” & “remove & replace”. Lubed & oiled and it’s back up to 100% functional! Excellent tutorial!
The only video I've seen that makes me think that I can do some of this myself. Particularly appreciate the tip on using lighter fluid instead of a complete teardown. Subscribed cuz of this video.
Thanks for the vid. But please get yourself a specialty tool for de/installing the trigger rebound slide. It makes your life so much easier. (And looks really professional)
I have a 686, I don't know if I want to go through all of that to clean and lubricant my 686.Thanks for the tip on using lighter fluid and other lubricant/cleaning spray to lubricant the parts without taking everything apart. But great video on how to take the 686 apart to lubricant it!
He says DO NOT USE WD-40, that must be because this may loossen up parts from being secured, i do not know other than the fact this substance does not last, anyway i do not take any hand gun apart, i look for an opening in the gun to blow out any loose dirt,then i drown the gun in oil and either blow the excess out or let lt drip dry, than wipe the outer parts dry........YOU HAVE TO BE NUTS TO TAKE A REVOLVER APART OR BE A GUN SMITH....I have had revolvers the past 60 years and have never taken any of them apart....IF IT WORKS ,DO NOT FIX IT !......STUPID VIDEO, anyone who follows this guys advice is just looking for problems, and that's a fact....
This is fascinating. I could watch this video 100 times. And I still wouldnt take it apart like this alone. But it's nice to see what makes guns go BOOM When the trigger is pulled.
A few tiny drops of oil or clp in actionable parts would suffice, work the action a bit and let it do it's job. Any use thereafter will help keep the parts moving and well lubed without gunking up the works.
What a great video! Let me ask you, i am assuming you have slicked up your gun yourself. If so, what material do you use for that? I would guess that it’s something like varying grades of Diamond sandpaper and/or paste? Just curious on what you prefer . Thanks so much
Hi again… I don’t see a link to the video you mention. Am I missing something. When I go in to do the TKC mods; besides cleaning; I plan to use a low speed battery dremel and some buffing attachments & Flitz and polish every thing up. Again… Hope you’re still out there; read this and send feedback. Thanks again… Gene
Hello, Jean. Before you do anything go to Gun Blue 490 watch his video on Smith and Wesson revolvers. Old school dude went to Smith and Wesson factory school. Might save you some grief.Good luck good look and god bless
@@AtomicDogg0213 Most parts are hardened. And not subject to excess movement stresses. Wipe a small amount of oil on parts, then wipe away, leaving a microscopic layer. All the protection you need. You will not wear a hardened part out from normal use in a lifetime. All excess oil will do is attract crud, then you will have a paste mess.
I always love it when guys complain about too much oil or grease, equally as stupid ass complaining about a woman being too wet. Having watched this video from beginning to end at no point in time to be overly grease or oil anything. I’m guessing you jack it dry
Newly subbed - Thanks for the video - I just put a deposit on a 686, last week One Question *:* Do all recently manufactured 686s have the round butt grip ?
586-1 ..why does my cylinder move way too far reward out of alignment when I push the Ejector rod. Like 1/2-3/4 too far back..have to “Snap it” forward to get it back in alignment to close…..you look like would know. Bad cylinder? Bad yoke journal…my 36 and 64 never have done this…had the cylinder out and completely apart..cleaned and Ballistol…..no help.
No. I shot some break cleaner into the internals before I felt like taking it down. It leaves a film. Taking it down isn’t hard and is educational. I’ve torn down every revolver I have ever owned and that’s more than 2 dozen. After a few times it’s very easy.
Aside from the slightly different sides of the hammer and the new lock hole (neither make a difference for cleaning) its pretty much the same thing. You can do it, watch the MannyCA video also.
Some target shooters feel that it causes (slightly) more drag and the gun works smoother without it. It's the secondary hammer block not the primary one so theres still protection.
where is that link you were talking about, another take apart video? Nice job, I have started to do the same with my guns. Love to see how they work and clean em up a little.
Thx for this video. I just subscribed. I'm same w 'Can't Dance' below. WD-40 maybe another watery semi-lubricant to spray out the dirt from the non-removed innards. I don't know which wld b better, Ransom or WD-40 but worth an experiment, find how smooth the trigger-hammer operation is. I'm wondering if ur Stainless (or Nickle?) revolver has the MIM innards as u have that Hilary Hole. Are the innards stainless too (use a magnet)? If so, dat'll b great as they won't rust n shouldn't b needing frequent clean up for a wheel gun vs. automatics w un-burnt powder messing up the innards. Hey, let the TopperWear plastic gun lovers enjoy plastic innards too, no lube, no rust? But he still need to get rid of the powder unlike the wheel gun?
