10:34 "there's your problem straight away you've reached pre-detonation temperatures and you're gonna ignite like a nob head" also words you don't want to hear from your lady, in both situations the damage is done and the ride is over before you know it.
I know Im asking randomly but does anybody know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account? I somehow lost my password. I appreciate any help you can give me!
@Nico Draven Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out now. Takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Love the depth of theory you are going into. Looking forward to the next videos. One recommendation if possible: many of us would appreciate if you could keep your videos clean. Call me whatever you want but just letting you know there are those of us who would like to subscribe but the vulgar content of some of your videos would deter that. Cheers!
That's great, I think there is a huge amount of myths out there about compression ratio, turbo, compression pressure.. Glad you're gonna do a video on compression ratio, because these days I calculated the basic stuff needed to increase the compression ratio on my bike, which is what I plan on doing. I'm running a bigger bore than original, and since I've not done anything to the whole intake/exhaust/head, it's getting bad volumetric efficiency at high rpm. I'm ok with the extremely flat HP-curve, but I want to at least recover some efficiency and a little bit power, by having my head machined down a few tenth of a millimeter.
Dynamic compression too i believe can be reduced by adjusting cam timing but for static i believe you'd need longer duration cams .. If i remember correctly
Very well explained! I was always wondering though why most of the times people put turbos on bikes that already have a ridiculous amount of horsepower or immense engine displacements (or both), like Hayabusa, ZZR, cb1300, Triumph Rocket, etc. Why not put it on an bike lacking power to give it some grunt? Is it easier done on a bigger engine or is just for the overkill?
I'm in the middle of a triumph build with a AMR500 supercharger. I'm keen to hear about draw through vs blow through. Looking forward to learning what you have to say on the subject.
Even though you lower the compression ratio for a turbo you still have the same amount of pressure in the cylinder at top dead center because your increasing the atmosphere preasure...the bonus is you have a bigger volume of explosive gases under the same amount of pressure...(this is just an add on to help others understand) not for you good sir
would like to see a video on easier ways to have variable compression engines? I see many designs that have variable length con-rods and other crazily complex systems. Surely one could use some kind of expansion chamber attached to the head, with a valve to control the expansion? Or would that totally fuck with the combustion process?
Iv got a V Twin 125cc yamaha I want to turbo what turbo can I use and what's the best way to in stall it.? Love the content so far just came across this after typing turboing a motorbike and your's is the first I tapped on thanks for shearing your expertise and time
My bike (82 Yamaha maxim 650) is gonna get turbo'd soonish, and you are a life saver! What's your opinion on E85 since it's very easy to find where I'm at
🤣🤣🤣 Yes man he is really telling you guys how it can work and can't work at the sametime are you listening what he's trying to say is ur ass will probably be on 🔥 🤣🤣🤣 if this setup doesn't work and he's trying is best to let you all know it's all on 👉 peace am out 🙏
So this is my plan I want to turbo my 1980 Yamaha 850 special with a 2017 can am x3 turbo as it is a 900cc 3 cylinder and I think if my research is corect the 850 has a 9:1 compression on pump 87 so if I ran 91 or 110 I should be fine there right
Here's the Problem I can't seem to understand with any sort of boost except for say higher altitude in use for aircraft flying where oxygen is thinner. If you have to remove your static compression ratio from your engine right? In order to keep your boosted compression ratio from exceeding say 12.5:1 under pressure and reducing the risk of detonation of the air/fuel ratio from the heat of compression...... So saying that your blow-off is setup to sustain your 12.5:1 CR. Your engine was originally 11.5:1 stock and made for ha,ha's around 90hp. You now have to reduce your compression ratio to allow for the increase in pressure from your boost. Okay! Here's the problem I have, that doesn't work out in my head here? But the dynamometer doesn't lye so I'm missing something here then??? SMFH! You reduce your static compression ratio from 11.5:1 down to a poor 9.0:1so in theory your engine without boost has lost a sh1t ton of HP then, but then you add back your CR by artificial atmospheres of pressure by increasing the PSI entering your engine, in order to raise your CP back up, from 9, 10, 11 and stopping @ blow-off @ say the predetermined 12.5:1 so say in theory you set your blow-off at the OEM stock compression ratio @ 11.5:1, on the dyno it's somehow making much more HP than it did with the static compression ratio of 11.5:1??? Why? And even if you were to mechanically add higher compression to your engine, by the means of say a higher domed piston or reduced volume of head space? The engine will yes make a little more HP..... But for some particular reason, by adding back this compression Via boost the engine which is naturally aspirated with the higher 12.5:1 CR will stop making HP @ say 100Hp but the one that is forced induced will continue to go well beyond that of the NA engine would???? SMFH WTF am I missing here? In theory they're both stopping making compression beyond 12.5:1 because of the detonation aspect of the fuel. But by taking away static compression and then adding it back by boosting it, somehow it will create almost 1/3rd to 1/2 more power potential than a engine that is identical at the end game of 12.5:1 ???? Do you see what I'm saying here? I understand, it's helping it atomize air/fuel a little better and there's a slight reduction in the parasitic losses of the internal rotation, but then again your adding back this power robbery by adding a restriction to say the exhaust system or in case of a supercharger it's taking power directly from the crankshaft adding back more in energy losses, than the gains you've acquired from the reduced parasitic losses. Can anyone help explain this phenomenon and how and why by adding boost, but reducing Compression somehow adds more potential energy to a engine even to overcome its losses from parasitic drag???? SMFH because it's been one mind Fu-king I can't seem to get over!?!? Really I can understand by intercooling and using alcohols for fuel this being a much better benefit over NA high compression. Like a top fuel engine and their superchargers which are rated by the amount of HP necessary to achieve the boost potential, some of which require 3000Hp to rotate at full speed!!!! This means that the engine has to be capable of making that 3Khp plus generating even more power to turn those tires and somehow they do??? So talk about a parasitic loss! 3K or even more to rotate your supercharger under full load and still out of a 500CID engine able to produce the power to sustain the supercharger and still making a crazy amount of HP to its wheels??? So what's the secret here I'm missing? We're all missing here, that no one's telling us???
This is easy. Engines basically convert chemical energy (stored in fuel) into motion. The more fuel the more motion. Compression is about efficiency not power output. Diesels have up to 20:1 but they don't make double the power a 10:1 petrol does. Top fuel dragsters make the power they do because of the volume of fuel they go through.
The Workshop I wish I could remember mate, it was about a year ago now but with development time obviously they weren't talking about the model they just released. It was in reaction the euro 5-6 regs. I'll try to find the source for you though.
Maybe a dumb question to answer in future turbo vids....dump valves, why dump boost just to have to build boost again? They sound stupid and I've always wondered why they don't store it to A, overcome lag by using it at low rpm before the turbo spools or B, use it to spin the turbo back up faster to overcome lag. Hope that makes sense and I'll see you in a bit lol.
Is there a way to monitor detonation temperatures? Or is a knock sensor the only way to go? My original plan was to have some pistons made, didn't think shaving them off was an option so i might go for that. Bigger head gasket feels like a big point of failure but that seems like the easiest / cheapest way to go. *Still going through your videos :D
"Is there a way to monitor detonation temperatures? Or is a knock sensor the only way to go?" - This is the same thing. "Bigger head gasket feels like a big point of failure " - Why?
Oh, thank you. I assumed that it was like checking for detonation/timing ratio and not temperatures :D(So i can actually get a proper temp reading with a sensor like that?) Hmm, about the gasket, i feel like more pressure / power = more strain on something that is thicker than stock and might not hold up as good as a thinner one?(Perhaps they become stronger and get better seal with thickness?) Changing ratios with pistons just feels more proper, i might be wrong doe i don't know anything about this, just my first impressions. I heard a lot about gasket problems in the past (on cars).
Hi! my bike's stock compression ratio is currently at 8.5 : 1, will this do? I also have an oil cooler kit and piggyback ecu ready for the build. The bike is a Royal Enfield Classic 500. What other things should I consider in turbocharging my bike? Thank you for your great videos!
Uhh, maybe best not to tell people to take material off their piston crowns? A higher average pressure and more heat means they're getting hammered already, and removing material makes them weaker.
I feel like I keep saying that - If you have higher octane fuel then you can run higher compression ratios or maintain compression ratios and up the boost - but as always there's a trade off. The other issue is if your doing this with a street bike, ensuring you can always fill up with high octane fuel
On some of the gasket kits I have used for various 2t scooters they supply 3 different thickness's of base gasket. To alter port timings and lower compression. I'm guessing. Could I be right in thinking you could do the same rather than use a head gasket. Providing exhaust and inlet have enough clearance.
Is it recommended to use a BOV ? Even with carburetors? Because I'm having a hard time picturing my 96 600 Bandits throttle system but I think it would go right after the intercooler right? Does the turbo spools backwards from the excess pressure as well? Also, imagine I want the most hassle free solution to reduce the AFR, would the combination of a thicker gasket and 98Ron gas, generally speaking, do the trick? Sorry for the barrage of questions, they all just came flowing. -Francis
"Is it recommended to use a BOV?" - yes. Even if the blow off valve never opens, its good protection and peace of mind. "Does the turbo spools backwards from the excess pressure as well?" - LOL no, this would cause it to break. The turbine wheel is directional. "would the combination of a thicker gasket and 98Ron gas, generally speaking, do the trick?" - thicker gasket - the problem with relying on higher octane fuel is that you might not always be able to get it.
The Workshop That was a mighty fast reply, thanks lol. I've read somewhere that backwards spool does happen sometimes and the BOV prevents it, it kind stuck in my head. Do you think it might be possible for you to eventually do a sort of instructional video on how to go about installing a turbocharger and/or supercharger? -Francis
"I've read somewhere that backwards spool does happen sometimes" - really? Where? This sounds like total shite - not directed at you , but total shite none the less. "Do you think it might be possible for you to eventually do a sort of instructional video on how to go about installing a turbocharger and/or supercharger?" - yes - will be doing it after xmas - but I have to say that you should know what you're doing before doing it yourself.
The Workshop No feelings hurt, I like being educated. I couldn't tell you anymore where I read that statement, I remember though it was when I was looking into VGT Turbos in gasoline engines ( I know what it sounds, I stumbled upon it and got me curious ) I know it's transparent that I don't have much practice tinkering, I mostly read a lot ( not always getting true facts lol ) but I learn fast and I like the challenge, plus I have an old 96 bandit which I'm gonna restore cosmetically ( that I can do! ) and it being turbocharged or even twin turbo'ed would be an amazing wow factor. Anyway I feel obligated to thank you for your vids because honestly their awesome, you explain clearly and I love the jokes. And thanks again for this awesomely fast back and forth, it really shows you care. Cheers, Francis
IronKnee It's not that it causes the turbine to spin backwards, it's that the excess boost can be forced back through the turbo and this causes the turbo to somewhat "chop" the air going the wrong direction causing the infamous turbo-flutter sound. Turbo flutter is technically bad for a turbo and can lower the lifespan/damage the turbo, though modern quality turbos are durable enough that turbo flutter barely affects it if at all.
Bearing in mind your channel description below, which makes no mention of you uploading videos to make personal attacks on people,, why exactly are you doing it? " This is my channel, primarily about motorbikes, then engines, then workshop/machining. Some theory vids, tutorials and projects all based around things that burn fuel. A new (2017) addition to the channel is the motorbike teardown videos where I take apart and film a bike from the first bolts right down to the gearbox internals. Then rebuild the bike and start her up. The whole intention is to make a kind of video haynes manual of the most common bikes on the road." Please don't misunderstand I'm not trying to dictate your content, some of which I enjoy. Just interested in your motives which could be interpreted as jealousy by some, Not me I might add.
turbo on a bike i stupid unless you have a drag. bike you lose too much controllability and reliability plus you are adding complexity ware you don't need it bikes are ideal to be n\a and n\a is ideal for racing if i had to build a race bike i would spend most of money on suspension anyway
