table salt can be used to make so many chemicals ! I'm big fan of electrolysis & Green chemistry . also Sonochemistry wiith electro-ochemistry is the future !
I know a good ion exchange membrane for this type of chloralkaline cell. It's Super-cheap too. (pun intended) 1) Fold a piece of paper over a credit card to create a makeshift disposable squeegee. 2) Put a line of medium viscosity cyanoacrylate glue across the top of a sheet of paper. The line should be less than or equal to the length of the credit card. 3) With some pressure, smear the glue down the sheet of paper in a smooth stroke to make a thin, even coating. Be careful of the fumes. They are absolutely dreadful. 4) Let the glue set completely, and inspect it. If it is dull with a rough texture, it bonded with moisture in the air and is no good. If it is smooth and glossy, it primarily bonded with the cellulose, and that is what you want. 5) Cut out your membrane and install it with the treated side toward the hydroxide chamber. I can't say for sure why it works so well. I discovered it almost by accident. My theory is that the CA glue bonds with the OH- groups on the cellulose to form a copolymer with an overall positive charge, while the unreacted OH- groups, on the untreated side, add up to an overall negative charge. Exposure to moisture, while the reaction is taking place, seems to reduce performance. Adding OH- ions to the mix may be neutralizing the charge.? You want the paper and the air to be as dry as possible, but at the same time, you don't want too much heat. The reaction could run away and go thermal. That's why I recommend medium viscosity glue. The additives might not help performance, but they do help to control the reaction, and it makes the glue easier to spread as well. Have fun tinkering, and play safe with this stuff.
very interesting, i can only tell you why cyano or clues with cyanide in it doing worse in water because the cyainde reacts with the water (and breaks down) and the acrylate cannot longer react with the cyanidde to form the copolymer my theorie, because Cellulose contains a lot of OH Groups the clue forms a coating conatining more COOH Groups coming from the acrylate (when its an acrylat acid, no acrylic ester) compounend in the lacquer or as you said a more negative charge when the hydrogen gets carried over to the other side creating a coating of COO (-) to repeal the OH (-)
If you have trouble getting sodium carbonate but anyone can get sodium bicarbonate, then just heat the bicarbonate on a baking dish at 300 F for 1/2 hour (or something like that) and it will convert to sodium carbonate. Weigh it before and after to check the stoichiometry, it should be nearly 100% conversion.
Doing this kind of data collection is really cool and valuable. I really appreciate it. With regards to future projects, I'd really love to see you experiment with nitrates from ammonia and a second attempt at diaphragm production of nitric acid. I remember you said the experiment may work better with 2 diaphragms and I'd love to see you try that. I'm working on similar stuff (very slowly) and I'd like to be able to generate nitric acid from ammonia with a not terrible yield via ammonia -> nitrates -> nitric acid via diaphragm. Could dramatically increase the power home chemists have. Love your videos!
All of those ideas are exactly what we’re working towards currently with the diaphragm electrolysis series. Nitrates from ammonia and nitric acid from nitrate are all yet to come!
Noteworthy that calcining calcium carbonate requires 835°C. Charcoal can totally get that hot, and both copper and iron/steel can handle it, though, so surprisingly available to a home chemist. Also noteworthy that sodium carbonate is super easily available and thus doesn't need synthesis. However, I'm curious if the synthesis of the bicarbonate requires a catalyst or elevated temperature, as the inputs seem pretty stable.
Harry, thanks for covering this so thoroughly, especially the anode choices. I think it is a very useful way to make alkali hydroxides. Have you tried it with anything besides sodium?
I haven't tried making any other hydroxides with the process just yet, but that's exactly what the rest of the series will be about, so stay tuned! I'll hopefully try potassium relatively soon, as I do actually need some KOH.
Thank you for this educational video. I have a question: I am interested in electrolyzing NaCl, because I want to react the chlorine generated with the hydrogen in order to produce hydrochloric acid. Do I need to use pure NaCl for the brine, or would table salt or sea salt work as well?
The reaction between hydrogen and chlorine is a pretty dangerous undertaking. I do apologise if you've already looked into the safety issues and requirements for such a reaction, but I'd definitely recommend some intense research and design before even attempting this one. The explosions you tend to get are no joke. Regardless, technically any sodium chloride source will work to some degree if your end goal is to make chlorine. However, you should probably steer clear of contaminants which will precipitate under basic conditions. Seawater is full of magnesium and calcium, so you might need to get rid of those before using seawater directly. Either way, pure NaCl is definitely the best option since you'll never encounter any unexpected issues.
You will need to use pure sodium chloride, table salt contains added iodide salts and sea salt even contains bromides salts on top of iodides. An excellent source for very pure and cheap sodium chloride is water softener, which uses pure sodium chloride and is available in 25 kg bags. In order to produce hydrochloric acid you will need to thoroughly dry both gas streams (the hydrogen gas and chlorine) so the end product will be anhydrous hydrogen chloride, which is actually pretty inert as far as corrosiveness against steel. As soon as it comes into contact with water it becomes hydrochloric acid, which is highly corrosive. The only safe way to produce the hydrogen chloride is by feeding both dry gas streams through individual tubes to a combustor where both streams intersect and are ignited, creating a continous flame. Kind of similar to how most high temperature torches work, like oxyhydro (i.e. hydrogen/oxygen) and acetylene. Do take into account that chlorine is a powerful oxidiser, and as a result the hydrogen/chlorine flame will be at over 2000C. If you build the combustor into a steel endcap aimed vertically upright inside an upright steel tube of about 30-40 cm long and with a big enough diameter, and with a 90 degree bend fitting on top of it followed by another short piece of tube and closed off with an endcap with a hole drilled in it for a tube where the formed hydrogen chloride is led out of, and bubbled into cold water, you'll be able to make your own hydrochloric acid. You might want to fill the second shorter piece of pipe with some inert refractory material to absorb the generated heat from the flame, perhaps lumps of graphite or something, and the tube coming out of the endcap will almost certainly need to be made of metal, as the hydrogen chloride with still be much too hot for any polymer. Also realise that dissolving hydrogen chloride in water to form hydrochloric acid is a fairly exothermic process, so depending on your hydrochloric acid output you will probably need actively cooled water to form the hydrochloric acid in.
You can make sodium hydroxide from sodium carbonate by reacting it with calcium hydroxide (slaked lime). This will precipitate calcium carbonate which will have to be settled or filtered out.
a possible good membran could be a piece of goretex clothing or similar (containg PTFE) because in the big industrie they use PTFE membrane too and the membrane in clothes works as rebreathable the Water get repelled and the gas could move trough
If you're doing this on a small scale (such as the cell in this video, where there's only around 0.1 A flowing through the device), the amount of chlorine you make isn't anything to worry about, provided you do the experiment outside. However, if you're planning a larger cell, or anything running at a higher current, you can neutralise the chlorine by collecting the gas over the anode and leading it through a solution of sodium carbonate. (sodium hydroxide makes the best chlorine neutralising agent, but since that's your desired product, there's no point in using it). I also have an updated video about building a bigger cell, where I do actually neutralise the chlorine produced: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iZH5fB0iM7U.html (I use sodium hydroxide as the neutralising agent here, but this can easily be replaced with sodium carbonate)
would it be more time efficient to run this experiment continuously for maximising NaOH production by keeping a small amount of NaOH solution in the chamber and top up with water to maintain a reasonable amount of electrolyte conductivity?
Yep! If I'm understanding you correctly. Cycling the catholyte solution by removing some of the generated NaOH and topping up with distilled water will be beneficial in current efficiency, energy efficiency, and reaction speed.
I followed the making sulfuric acid with epsome salt and purchased the quarter gallon terracotta pot made acid with graphite rods wondering if I have carbine or graphite in the bottom? Excellent series
This is great sir, thank you for your efforts. I would like to ask you about the asbestos membrane that allows the passage of sodium ions and does not allow the passage of chlorine icons. Where can it be bought, and if I build two basins with a capacity of 100 liters, what is the appropriate current strength? And the appropriate voltage
Asbestos is not something you should ever consider using. There's a reason it has been banned for sale and use in over 70 countries. Additionally, asbestos does not 'allow the passage of sodium ions and not allow the passage of chloride ions', it actually allows the passage of all ions, so there's no reason to use it over the simpler and safer porous terracotta I'm using here. If you're building a chloralkali cell with a capacity of 100 litres, you're going to need a lot more information to determine the current and voltage through your cell. Things like the size/shape/surface area of your electrodes, the shape of your cell, the type of electrode material, the positioning of the membrane, the desired production rate, the available electricity, the conductivity of your solutions, the surface area of your diaphragm, and the positioning of the electrodes will all need to be considered to even get an estimate of the reaction conditions required. For starters, how much sodium hydroxide do you want to make with your cell, and how quickly do you want to make it?
Nice work, but as a postgraduate lab teacher, I would say that a quadratic is a poor function to use even though it matches the data. I'm sure a little calculus would give a better equation to match to. The reason why I say this is that there is no intuitive reason to use a quadratic, but maybe a logarithmic or logistic curve may suit better.
Yeah. Looking back, this was an odd choice, and there was no proper justification for it. I'm pretty sure the only reason I put a quadratic on there is because I didn't know much about Excel at the time, and it was the only curved line I knew how to make...
There are more possible anode materials: For chlorides and carbonates magnetite should work really well (but the anodes are kinda hard to make as you need to melt the material) For sulphates, lead dioxide (or just lead that has been anodized in NaHSO4 or H2SO4) will work much better than graphite. If you use lead make sure that the chloride concentration is low or the PbO2 layer becomes unstable. Then theres also MnO2 anodes but they are hard to make and sensitive to abuse.
@@lautaromorales2903 No, titanium can only be used the cathode. Pure titanium as an anode will either passivate or erode depending on your electrolyte and cell voltage. It is only good as a carrier for other anode materials.
@@nussmischung1776 recently I saw the 2NaCl + H2SO4 = Na2SO4 + 2HCl reaction and I think i'm going to use that to make the hydrocloric acid and via electrosysis separate the Na+ and SO4-² ions. You know if with SO4-² ions the titanium anode will resist enough?
@@lautaromorales2903 Passivation means a NON-CONDUCTING oxide layer forms. You cannot electrolyse anything with that. Besides, you cannot make pure HCL solution with that approach. Either use dry distillation which is dangerous or ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TQdvB5W4Zb8.html
Provided it’s porous enough to absorb water, I’d imagine it’d work well, I haven’t tried it though. Chlorine might possibly be a problem, so it might be advantageous to use carbonate as a starting material. Just remember that it probably won’t hold up to acidic processes, so you can only use it for chloralkali cells almost exclusively (assuming it works in the first place).
Does the PVC pipe conduct electricity? Can I try it with a beaker full of NaCl solution with a carbon electrode and the pvc pipe inside the beaker with distill water and a carbon electrode? Would the current pass through the PVC pipe?
The PVC pipe does not conduct electrons or ions. In order to get your setup to work, you'll need some kind of diaphragm "window" of sorts on the side of your PVC pipe. For that, you can use filter paper, a piece of clay pot (as I've done here), or even cardboard if you must. Provided you have that, your design will probably run nicely, I hope you're successful!
Modelling clay contains oils and is actually somewhat hydrophobic, so from what I can gather, it definitely won't absorb water as required for a diaphragm. Ideally, the diaphragm needs to soak up water like a sponge, so if you use clay, it must be fired and highly porous (which is why terracotta pots are perfect).
The clay pot is providing too much resistance. You need something more conductive when wet. Use plaster of Paris as your mildly water soluble membrane you can make it as wide as you want and it doesn't increase resistance. baring in mind that plaster of Paris is CaSO4 the conjugate base of a strong acid, being a strong electrolyte and despite how it may seem is mildly soluble in water not completely insoluble) . Just make it with as little water as possible without it turning to stone immediately. that increases resistance aa bit but decreases by product in the cells.
I saw a video were it was fly ash and clay mix for a water filter membrane. If i can make my own mix i could make the surface like wwwww that way increasing surface. Idk if i can even fire clay yet though.
Correct, but I'm not talking about farads, I'm talking about faradays. Farads are capacitance, and faradays are a measure of charge (equivalent to 96500 coulombs). Faradays are more useful than coulombs when we're talking about chemistry, because one faraday constitutes exactly one mole of fundamental charges.
Nice vid, thanks fot the info. I'm testing designs myself with ceramic diaphragms and mason jars, I put them connected horizontally mouth to mouth and drill three holes on top(each) one for electrodes, another for gas exhaust(what I'm after, beacuse I'm trying to make hydrogen chloride) and the third on the cathode for adding water and removing NaOH and on the anode side to add more sodium chloride. it is a smelly experiment, so far I got 5% HCl solutions basedon titration.
That’s really cool! I’m currently working on my moderate scale chloralkali cell and eventually hope to make HCl with the output gasses too. How are you reacting the two gasses together safely? I’m still trying to figure out the best way to configure the chlorine/hydrogen gas output for the reaction.
@@ScrapScience Well, at first I did try combining the gases in a carburator like system in which hydrogen and chlorine go in a small chamber(where they mix) inside a glass bottle with one exit in front a pilot spark(where they react) from a High Voltage circuit I made using a voltage multiplier, it worked at first, there were small pops, but very controlled and manageable, however, as soon as the HCl started to build up, it started eating the spark electrodes creating a chloride layer stopping the sparks and also eating through the electrical insulation and forming arcs where it shouldn't, then the spark would stop and then it would give one spark again, but it would ignite the build up of the mixture of H2 and Cl2 resulting in a small explosion(luckly nothing broke and no glass shrapnel for me). then I remembered that UV light create free radicals of chlorine which promptly should react with the hydrogen then looking in sciencemadness to see if anyone tried I found this: www.sciencemadness.org/whisper/viewthread.php?tid=156152#pid644499 which encouraged me to make something similar, but the reaction is different, and slow. Bugged as to why that is, I took a look and found that instead the direct synthesis it goes something like this : Cl2+H2O -> HCl + HClO then the second phase: 2HClO --UV light--> 2HCl + O2 (found on wikipedia - the HClO page, there it also says that metls like Cu, Co or Ni can also work to make the reaction go this way, since this is wet chlorine and it goes reverse if there's HCl and HClO together, however I couldn't iinvestigate any further because this is a citation of an Inorganic Chemistry book I do not own and currently have no way of owning) the strange thing is that I managed to see bubles forming near the quartz tube(yes, if you gonna use UV standard glass doesn't cut it, I tested, much to my dismay standard glass is kinda ify) I didn't tested to see if it was O2 but, if the rate of your electrolysis cell is slow, you won't smell any chlorine, this much I know from personal experience, plus you can also check MysteriusBhoice(the author of the experiment) on youtube as well(he has a channel with the same name: ru-vid.com). people have said it works with a halogen lamp, which it should, but I haven't tested, it works even with UVC LED, but the rate is slower. I'm trying to revisit the spark model, but with a different design and see if it will survide the deadly cloud of Hydrogen chloride forming. my personal take is that to increase rate you could make to UV reactors and put them in series, like the exhaust of one goes into the other, I guess that raising the emperature could help increase rate of the reaction, but then you would have to collect the HCl in another vessel as it would evaporate(it is more soluble in cold water) or a higher power UV lamp - I use a 4W mercury vapor lamp, also, using a magnetic stirrer, could help to mix the chlorine better in the water and get rid of the oxygen which makes the reaction to go backwards. plus, you can use flourescent marker's paint to make a UV radiation sheild, since it is not healthy to be exposed to that, my reator is inside a jar filled with this flourescent ink diluted in water, mysteriusbhoice also gave such idea. if you want to try my first crazy idea, just be careful, thee explosion i powervul and loud. use the smallest vessel possibe, for if it build up it wont be a huge amount reducing the risk of a ctastrophe. TL;DR I use UV light to drive the reaction forward. hope it was helpful, sorry for the long text though.
Thanks! That helps a lot. I happen (by pure unrelated coincidence) to already own a UVC LED so I'll do my best to put something together with that. My production rate will be very slow so provided I build everything properly, it shouldn't be too hard to make it work without explosion risk. Also, if you do happen to revisit your spark gap design, I'd recommend a graphite spark gap of some kind, as it's the only electrode material I know that won't react with the chlorine/hydrochloric mixture (with which even platinum will be attacked, I'm told), though it might suffer problems in terms of erosion over time. That's just a relatively uninformed suggestion though, you likely know a lot more about what works best.
@@ScrapScience Glad to know, but explosion risk with UV is almost null, I never seen explosion or a hint that it could happen, the reaction is very tame, so I'm sure that you won't have any trouble with explosion risks. as for graphite, I thought of it, but I was afraid that somehow it started reacting forming something like tetrachlormethane or any chlormethane, but that's just theory, never found anything supporting the evidence of such reaction. and yes, erosion is an issue, but graphite is cheap so, replacing is not a big deal, just more of a hassle. and on a note that might look like modesty, I don't know much about it either, I'm just discovering it as well. In fact I started doing it since I found your channel mid october, 2020 the idea of a ceramic diaphagm never crossed my mind and it is simple, cheap and scalable, and what I like the most is that aside from all the kinks that need to be sorted out, it actually works! for my revisiting, I was considering uusing a spark plug, though I'm not sure how it will hold out, It could work, for the material of the spark plug could form a chloride layer passivating it and the core being made of "unreactive materials" could survive sustaining a spark(at least it is what I'm hoping for), in case that doesn't work, I'll give graphite a try for sure. EDIT: even though I done it already, I'd love to see you make a video on that!
That's good to know in regards to the explosion risk. Graphite reacting with the chlorine actually sounds pretty reasonable under those conditions, so it's probably something to avoid. Spark plugs normally use platinum or iridium for the spark gap, so it might be worth it to try both options (I've got no idea which would be more resistant though). And I'm glad you found the ceramic diaphragm useful, I'm always surprised at how effective they are.
That would definitely be a good idea if you have a small amount of NaOH to begin with, as it would speed up the initial stage greatly. I always run my cells with the assumption that someone might not have any NaOH available at all (at least for their first run), and simply wanted to keep that consistent with the experiments here.
@@ScrapScience Understandable. Definitely worth mentioning it can start without it and that it takes time if you were to go about it that way. In fairness, demo is demo. Practical cells are always a different animal from their "beaker counterparts"... Just seemed germane. I figured the omission was more because then it made the titration absolute, not that the little bit for a seed would throw it off, but when you're measuring something... Lol simple is better
I mean, believe it or not, people have been using terracotta for this purpose for over 100 years. It's surprisingly effective at separating two solutions when there's no electric field to pull the ions through it.
@@ScrapScience haha I cant believe you replied to me, your transistor computer is excellent - you should get a Turing award. really impressive channel!!! :)
Just being capable of high current doesn't make a power supply ideal for this type of experiment. The current will inherently be limited by the diaphragm, so trying to push a large current through the cell would heat it up considerably, and waste a lot of the input energy. A bench power supply is more useful in a larger cell setup (which I do have another video about), but this small-scale test didn't require the use of high currents, so the power supply I use here did the job just fine.
In the case of using sodium chloride as a starting material, the anode chamber will slowly generate bleach and chlorate in solution, along with the chlorine gas bubbling off the anode. When using sodium carbonate, the anode reaction will generate oxygen and hydrogen ions. These hydrogen ions will eventually neutralise the sodium carbonate (first making sodium bicarbonate, and then eventually carbon dioxide). A similar thing happens when using sodium bicarbonate as the starting material.
I am getting ready to make some attempts at lithium recovery via electrodialysis. The papers I have come across mention using Nafion 115 or 117 membranes which are horrendously expensive. Both membranes mentioned are a Teflon like substance. If I can find more data on these I will see if using something like a PTFE tape is feasible for use as a membrane. It is a long shot but perhaps the PTFE tape has some permeability that will allow ion transfer.
Nafion is a specifically engineered membrane made to be almost exclusively conductive to positively charged ions. Hence why it is useful for lithium processes as it can be used to selectively conduct Li+ ions. I'm afraid PTFE tape has absolutely no such property, and can't really be used as a membrane for ion transfer. If your process will work with nothing but a semi-permeable membrane (rather than an ion exchange membrane), there are much better options than teflon tape, as anything porous and inert will likely do the job more effectively.
I´ve made vinyl membranes that allow to transform a M2CO3 (M for alkaline metal like Li, Na, K, Rb, Cs) into a MOH by electrolysis. Just tell me if it is rigtht for you. PS: H2 generation is increased with the same wattage.
Technically, anything inert and porous enough to absorb water will to the job, but fired clay has the following desirable properties: 1) It's extremely cheap (flowerpots are the best source) 2) It's very chemically inert under these conditions 3) It has a degree of porosity high enough to allow ion flow with relatively low resistance 4) It has a degree of porosity low enough to prevent significant mixing of solution between the two half-cell chambers 5) It's easy to glue and fully seal pieces into the apparatus Polyester fabric will definitely work for the process, though it may not quite be restrictive enough on the mixing of solution across the diaphragm, so you will likely get a less pure product.
@@ScrapScience What other barriers or membranes can be used? I've heard of cotton in some cases. I'm wondering how that will stand up in a sulphuric acid generator with magnesium or copper sulphate.
Overall, sodium hydroxide is one of the most useful chemicals in my opinion. It makes for the cheapest and most effective base. In actual chemistry, solutions of it are very useful for scrubbing acidic gasses, making sodium salts, dissolving various metals, and precipitating transition metal complexes. Most people outside of chemistry tend to use it for soap making and as a drain cleaner.
What if I said I found a way to reverse and convert sodium hydroxide to free energy?I stumbled upon something unique but would like to hear a few theory’s toward my claim.
I'd be extremely skeptical of your claim. If you're using sodium hydroxide to make energy, it doesn't sound very 'free' to me. Converting sodium hydroxide into useful energy isn't a far-fetched claim, but having it make energy in a cost effective manner is about as close as you can get to impossible.
There are no real claims or findings for a perpetual energy machine of any kind. This includes any mechanism involving electrolysis. I'd believe in claims of time travel over any kind of 'free energy' based on perpetual generation. If you could explain what you mean by 'self electrolysis', I might be able to make some sense of what you're talking about, but don't keep your hopes up for a 'free energy' system.
You cannot use stainless steel as an anode, it won’t hold up to the oxidising environment while generating chlorine or oxygen under these conditions. The only reasonable anodes you can use are the ones I mentioned in the video.
I have a question about sodium chlorate cell,so to make sodium chlorate we put chatode and anode into a solution of sodium chloride aka tablesalt,temperature of solution should be at least 70°C,we run a current and sodium chlorate starts to produce,now my question is what reaction takes a place?What i guess is that on positive electrode we produce chlorine and oxigen while on negative electrode we produce hydrogen and sodium,sodium instantly react with water and created sodium hydroxide,now as percentage of sodium hydroxide raises up it starts to react with chlorine and oxigen forming chlorate,now is that right or wrong asumtion?
You've got the general idea, but not quite. First, there are two different reaction pathways that can occur in a chlorate cell, the first (less efficient) pathway occurs in cells without pH and temperature control, while the second (more efficient) pathway occurs only when the temperature is held around 70C and the pH is held at nearly exactly 6.7. Pathway 1 (occurs in room temperature cells without pH control): First, the cathode exclusively generates hydrogen (sodium is never generated in aqueous solution) by the reaction: 2H2O + 2e- > H2 + 2OH- Note that hydroxide is generated as a by-product here, basifying the solution somewhat. Initially, chlorine is generated on the anode ( 2Cl- > Cl2 + 2e- ), but as the hydroxide ions from the cathode make the pH of the solution rise, the chlorine off the anode will react with the hydroxide ions by the reaction: Cl2 + 2OH- > ClO- + Cl- + H2O At this stage, the overall reaction is simply making hypochlorite ( ClO- ) ions, and it technically occurs as a single step on the anode, but I think it's easier to conceptualise if you imagine chlorine reacting with hydroxide, as above. These hypochlorite ions slowly increase in concentration until they start to react on the anode once again: 12ClO- + 12OH- > 4ClO3- + 8Cl- + 6H2O + 3O2 + 12e- It is only after this second stage of the reaction that the chlorate is actually generated. Pathway 2 (occurs at around 70C and ONLY at a pH of ~6.7): The second pathway occurs in a similar fashion to the first up to where the hypochlorite is generated. At the required pH of 6.7 and temperature of 70C, some of the hypochlorite is protonated to form hypochlorous acid (HClO), which will react with further hypochlorite ions to form chlorate: 2HClO + ClO- > ClO3- + 2HCl Again, it is this second stage of the reaction which forms chlorate.
Yep, exactly. And as the hypochlorite concentration increases, it will eventually itself get electrolysed into chlorate, as per pathway 1 in my comment above.
@@ScrapScience in order to run this electrolysis successfully, should we keep both containers closed for storing all chlorine ions inside the solution?
Aside from safety concerns, low voltage is MUCH more efficient in terms of energy usage for electrolytic reactions. It's also much more stable in terms of ripple and far easier to measure the current/charge in an experiment like this.
@@ScrapScience Hi I know i am bothering You.sorry Amm how is heavier O2 or O3? I mean why ozone doesn't fall On us becaus ozone have 3 atoms It should be heavier due to the gravity?? Thanks
@@electromagic3111 You're definitely not bothering me, getting asked questions is my favourite part of youtube. There are a couple of reasons behind the ozone not falling. First, the formation of ozone in the stratosphere is a dynamic process. UV from the sun will split oxygen atoms and form ozone continuously, and it doesn't really have time to move large distances before disproportionating. As such, it pretty much exclusively sits in the ~50km thick layer in which it forms. Second, the effect of gravity on gasses of different masses is incredibly minimal when compared with the effects of turbulence and air currents. Heavy gasses, when they are as dispersed as ozone is in the upper atmosphere, will simply mix in with the atmosphere rather than 'fall down'. It's like how the salt in seawater won't just sink to the bottom of the ocean to leave fresh water on the surface.
@@ScrapScience ok last Question If i generate O3 (corona discharge) in my room Would the ozone go up to the roof Or down(0 air turbulence or air flow) (O2 density stp 1.429g/L) (O3 density 0 2.144mg/ CM`3) Wikipidea Why its very light? N thanks alot i really appreciate your help😘
If there were absolutely zero turbulence (impossible), ozone would slowly sink downwards, as it is heavier than the nitrogen/oxygen in air. I would advise against making ozone by corona discharge indoors though, if that’s something you’re planning on doing. The nitrogen oxides generated as side products aren’t good for your lungs.
You seems to forget that hydroxide solution absorb CO2 in air and from my experience it does not take a long time to do it. Letting your solution exposed to air that long I have difficulty believing that most of it is not turned into carbonate. When I make copper(I) oxide by electrolyzing a KCl solution I must add HCl every days to prevent the Anode to be passivated by carbonate formed from the KOH absorbing CO2 in air. A large amount of CO2 is generated when I add the HCl and the electrolysis restart.
Yeah, that was the main reason why I didn’t bother extracting the total NaOH. I wasn’t worried about it affecting the titration results though, as Na2CO3 will react the same as the original NaOH during the titration. Are you sure the absorption of CO2 is that severe though? I had my ~0.4M NaOH solution sitting out for 3 weeks and it barely bubbled upon acid neutralisation.
