Awesome vid ! I love these vids you do every week or so , I’ve been using 6x1” pieces of Bass wood with diamond emulsion for stropping , It eliminates the chance of rolling in front of the cutting edge unlike leather if pressure is applied, If I do use a leather strop I lower the angle .02 degrees , this compensates for the squish of the leather so you don’t roll over the apex 😊BTW anyone wanting the bass wood 6x1” hobby lobby has it , you can make around 6 strops from 1 piece it’s super cheap and affective, they fit directly in the clamps no aluminum backing is required
Just curious about the burr removal. I noticed that you were using edge leading strokes as opposed to edge trailing. How much of a difference does that make, if any?
It makes no sense in terms of cutting characteristics, however the bevel looks better when all marks left by abtasive stone are directed in the same way.
Simple, every next stone removes the burr left by previous stone with each turn of the knife. When we reached the 3k stone the burr it leaves is so small that technique we used provided a result you've seen in microscope. No strop required.
I tried to freehand my D2 blade it was a nightmare. Couldn't form a burr. Spent so many hours I chucked the knife the in the garbage. 400/1000 diamond plate.
Uma questão e não é uma crítica específica ao seu vídeo, mas eu nunca vi alguém medir o ângulo final de uma lâmina após a finalizado o trabalho. Depois de tantos passes e trabalho duro em cima do bevel, acha que ele permanece com o grau apontado no inclinometro que foi planejado no início do vídeo?
@@TSPROFSharpeningAcho que foi uma resposta a outro comentário. De toda forma, embora haja o compensador de espessura, ele garante que a pedra se mantenha paralela como bevel, não importando o ângulo do mesmo. Ainda acredito que do início ao fim, alguns graus se perdem ou se ganham (dependendo da perspectiva).
It depends on result you want to achieve. If your main goal is to have a shining cutting edge - no reason to use a strop, 'cuz after 3K stone the bevel will look good enough. If you want to remove all residual burr from the edge, it's reasonable to use a strop with diamond paste, but it requires a lot of skill to properly process the edge with it and avoid such mistakes as bending the edge or pulling a new burr from it. That's why we decided to show a technique that would not give a "bad advice" for those who don't have a sufficient stropping skill.
@@TSPROFSharpening thank you now I understand everything much better because it all makes sense to me now . You are correct because I am a beginner, and funny thing is that I do get it to become extremely sharp where it catches on my fingernails but after I use the diamond pace, it’s like I blunt in their life, even though it has a mirror edge on it 😁✌🏼
if you want to reprofile with lower angle, take into account that the width of the secondary bevel will increase. That also depends on the steel. If steel is pretty soft, the cutting edge will not last long. I don't really understand what you mean by "In una volta oppure in due?/Once or twice"
@@TSPROFSharpeningI meant in a single step or several steps, that is, reprofiling several times, the steel that I would like to lower as an angle are three folding knives: the cpm110v, m390 and vanax
