With all the bad news in the world today, it's nice to see a new video about engineering, creativity, and collaboration around this electrification hobby. This was a very professional job from you as always, and I enjoyed relaxing and watching you work for the benefit of a friend!
I generally recommend putting bolts in from above. If nuts fall off, at least the bolt is still poking through the hole to hold things still. And use nylock nuts so you don't need to worry about them falling off in the first place.
Thanks to Patrick for letting us take a look at his build. The conversion of a used vehicle for my own property is also something I'm looking into. I like how you guys break everything down. Maybe we can get some details on just how much weight he is able to carry, top speed, and total distance on a single charge?
3.7V/cell is way too high. To be frank, the charge controller should stop at 3.55V/cell and the BMS cut-off should be 3.65V/cell. You don't want the charge controller to regularly trigger the BMS cut-off, that puts unnecessary stress on the BMS. 3.55V/cell will fully charge LiFePO4, there is no need to go higher. But it really comes down to whether you can control the BMS parameters. Some BMS's won't balance until you charge the battery to 3.65V/cell. What you really want is for the BMS to start balancing above 3.50V/cell. So BMS balance start: 3.50V/cell, charge controller target 3.55V/cell, and BMS cut-off 3.65V/cell. Once the battery is well balanced, the BMS should just not hit any high-voltage cell cut-off. One last thing. It's a good idea to put two batteries in parallel rather than just have one battery. It is totally unnecessary to run batteries at 1C or higher. Having two in parallel gives you a lot more surge capacity as well as more robustness and less stress on the batteries. -Matt
3.45 volts per cell is an ideal sweet spot as there is very little capacity to be gained from going higher. Less than 2%. Yet it’s high enough for the active cell balancer to work. After a couple hours of absorbing at 55.2, you can drop down to a float voltage about 3.3 volts per cell, 52.8 battery voltage. It would be cool to put 16 304 aHr cells in this thing! But sounds like he does not need that much capacity.
I bought this same battery a little over a month ago and no complaints from me. I cut the ring terminals off and bought a yamaha charger plug (for my yamaha g29) and put it on the pig tail from the charger. It looks pretty factory. Very happy with the purchase.
You could probably still go up the hill with the old battery if you just drive slower. Ideally the motor controller would have a programmable battery current sensor which would automatically reduce the speed. It's worth seeing if this is an option, even with the new battery. The new battery gives headroom but if you have four people and heavy gear you might still reach the limit.
I really really want to build a diy aerodynamic electric full suspension velomobile... AKA fully enclosed electric recumbent trike. With enough storage for groceries or camping/living gear. With as much rooftop solar as will fit & optional single wheel bike trailer with suspension. With a couple lightweight folding solar panels that store under the seat. = No more need for car, insurance, registration, gas or high maintenance costs. Able to combination of pedal or pedal/electric assist or electric only if you get tired or sick but need to be somewhere......Many think it's goofy but when u realize you're gonna be stuck on a fixed income. It seems like a good way to stay travel but stay warm & in rain/cold.
Hey, David, if you get yourself a set of golf clubs and hit the golf ball like I do,anymore, you will have a blast driving around looking for your ball in the rough all day! Lots of uphill, downhill, and side hill driving around to keep you excited. You might even find others balls!,,
Hahaha!! I fitted a big solar panel to my mobility scooter in 2018!! I use a 370w panel and pwm regulator. Mobility scooters are 24vdc not 48. On a day of full sun, I can be on the move for a long time.
I’d make a recommendation if you don’t mind; Use a solenoid instead of the transistors that the bms uses. There are 2 options: 1: desolder the transistors and use their gate signal to turn on a 200/300A solenoid rated at the voltage you’re running. (48v etc). If oh have a shunt built into the bms, you can still wire that in to measure current unless it is a bottleneck itself in which case I’d recommend the next option: 2: switch to a different bms such as the Jaibadai 21s capable smart bms with built in solenoid that handles the current needed easily. Then to be extra safe, run an active balancing module with the voltage set to turn on after you’re at 3.45v for the final top balance when charging. You would see a huge performance boost having a solid connection like a large solenoid vs the transistors and have peace of mind with the active balancing and temperature monitoring. 3rd option would be at the very least use some thermal paste and put a large heatsink onto your transistors with a cooling fan to keep their heat down and performance as best as possible.
The battery looks "professional" heavy duty. The second set of screws, super well thought out, from the manufacturer For the future, you can put thicker cables (next AWG side) between the battery and the engine controller, on a route as short as possible and safe . Sorry and no hate, the arrangement of the wires around the MPPT, Bost and charger controller can be more professional. @ 12:18 the plug must be waterproof !!! I like the desire/will of the owner!
Awesome I do wonder if it may shut off when the voltage or soc is under 10% as amps rise as you have told us many times. I am glad to see the solar roof for never charge use lol.
I've put up to 900w of solar on one Taylor Dunn cart but in my experience 600w is more than enough to sustain any heavy ranch needs for a utility vehicle.
I wonder if its the surge spike thats forcing it into protection mode and if so would a capacitor bank address this issue. *Guess I should have watched the whole vid before commenting. :)
I’m new to bifacial panels. Is there a reason he wanted to go with a bifacial over a single sided, considering the way the panel is mounted? It just seems the little bit that is uncovered on the backside, would make that much difference. I have no clue though, just trying to decide if bifacial are really worth the extra cost.
I love the Poz projects, but can't help asking if the battery isn't worth much significantly morethan the golf cart? (I've never bought a golf cart so might be an ignorant question) The payback time at $2200.00 plus sales tax must be millions of miles? Still awesome fun to have a vehicle and never buy gas again and never pay to charge again. Very cool!
Nice job maybe I need one to drive to work. I don't know if there is a golf cart route but the same thing can apply to a motorized wheelchair type of three wheelers. They have a twenty five mile range if i could go fifty then this might be doable. I can use the sidewalks under the disability act. The question where do I put the solar panel? No roof. 73
I recently changed my e-scooter's LA battery for a 17S LI battery. Scooter had a stock 40A MCB on it which worked with the LA, but it tripped with the LI. The BMS is 100A and I ordered a 100A MCB that I haven't received yet. I hope it stops tripping. *****Anyone know why the 40A MCB trips when the LI is connected but not when the LA is connected?***** Internal resistance higher for LA than LI, is that why? Scooter is 72V. Stock wires connected to the LA battery are just 12 gauge and they go into the controller so I can't change them - I hope they don't overheat. I think I'm experiencing high AMPs just on take off not after getting up to cruise speed. I'm in Asia - lucky there are no hills.
Was your Victron Smart Shunt calibrated to the exact battery capacity advertised on the pack? Does the shunt read the exact capacity or does it cater to the set capacity.
Hi. Dave, I was wondering how your Schneider XW pro inverter? Are you going to do a review on the inverter. I’m off grid and have been watching a lot of videos. I watched a video XW pro vs SolArk and I empress. What is your opinion. Thanks
Yes, I have several videos on my Schneider XW PRO inverter. It's been working great, no faults. Check out my load test video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nCV1OUrcAaw.htmlsi=DE4rUQ97c_oC4Izc I tried running a Sol-Ark at my house and it didn't work well for me.
@@DavidPozEnergy ok, nice function to have. Not all lithium battery's BMS has cold temp protection. Most have high temp, short,over charge/discharge but not cold temp. Without that protection you might have to install some type of heating element around the battery, or some type of shut off. Both would need to operate off of a thermostat
@DavidPozEnergy Hello David been watching you for some years now. Love the work you did with the golf kart and even more importantly how you simplify all your videos for anyone to understand. I am trying to put a small affordable system together for my home. I presently have an eg4 3000 watt 48volt inverter and four 560 watts solar panel. What I desperately need is a battery. Would you happen to have a battery you would be willing to give away. Please let me know. Thank you. Charles.
Hi Charles, I gave this battery away to Patrick, and I've given away others in the past. The biggest issue is shipping. I don't have any legal way to ship batteries. So, when I give away batteries they are all local (Massachusetts). Check out this battery, it can handle your 3kW inverter and get you going: batteryhookup.com/products/new-51-2v-60ah-3-07kwh-lifepo4-battery-with-bms-48v Use discount code DAVIDPOZ
@@DavidPozEnergy Hello David. Truly appreciate you taking the time to respond. If you have any battery giving away do let me know as I maybe able to get help with shipping. I will also check out the site you listed. Really benefitted from all your videos. By the way, we also love the new look (hair). Keep growing stronger and stay blessed. Charles.
Did you do the exact same drive as the 1st one? Because looking back when you went to the same grass area (where it stoped) you were at 96% life @start, with the new new up you’re at 74% life@start. If both tests were equal the new setup has too much parasitic draw could be from the booster you added.
@@DavidPozEnergyThank you for the confirmation. If you FW to 4:04 you will see old setup in high 96% range compared to new setup. To me it seems it definitely need more AH battery life not to cut out. But there is a big parasitic draw on the new set up that Has to be the booster is using way to many watts to convert. What do you think?
It continues to confuse me why so many people call North America grid power 110V. The official distribution voltage has been 120V since the 1930s. Old habits die hard, I guess.
github.com/madsci1016/SMAVenusDriver This is the most useful link I can give you. It's a way to send SOC data to the SMA inverters, regardless of which batteries you are using.
Is it true that LFP battery can't be charged well below freezing point, unlike one using Nickel/cadmium chemistry? If yes, how then Tesla was putting LFP cells in most of base level Model 3s? What will happen to them when the real cold will come?
Some LFP batteries use a silicone heating pad built inside the battery. When it's cold, the heating pad warms the battery first. Once the BMS sees it's warm, then charging of the cells can begin.
@@DavidPozEnergyThank you, David! One more thing - what is the temperature when LFP batteries can be charged? Now I'm writing a book about EVs, and it's hard to learn such information from companies' brochures, as they tend to be secretive. They don't even tell when the NMC battery will be damaged in extreme cold.
Patrick (the owner of this golf cart) hasn't had any problems charging from solar. I'm not sure what the underlying reason is that Vatrer would say that on their FAQ. I've spoken with Vatrer since publishing this video and they had no problem with the solar panel.
David, with respect, you typically do a great job with your videos and they are much appreciated. However, you did yourself no favors with your "review" of the Anker F3800. This unit is a joke especially with it's 60 volt solar input limitation. I believe you are a "good guy" so please, please, do not do any "reviews" like this again in the future.
Patrick (owner) has told me that he has never plugged it in since we installed the first lithium battery. The solar panel is enough for his level of driving. Patrick says he uses it every day during the summer. It's shut down during the winter.
Not much of a leap of imagination is needed to see how you could make a small car with a couple of solar panels and hardly ever charge it again if you don't need to drive every day.
You know, that’s the American way. Gotta be different, got to show off, got to spend money on more junk, gotta go faster, bigger tires, bigger exhaust pipes, bigger homes than the neighbor, etc. it’s been a downward greedy, corrupt spiral since 1607.
It's the way I bought it, it lived on a seasonal camp site. Picked it up pretty cheap considering the motor controller was fried. Plus I go off roading with it.
How long to charge it up from 50% discharged, using that solar panel? Solar panel is only yielding ~4A in the sunshine.. so... does not seem like the solar would be "Enough to REALLY never plug in your cart" unless not really using it much per day, i.e. never discharging the battery much.
Patrick tells me that he uses it every day during the summer, but it's only 2-3 miles per day. It's charging around 220W. Since the panel is oversized, the charger can be at 220W for a long time, meaning it can capture up to 1,800Wh per day. That's about a third of the total battery capacity. As Patrick mentioned, the capacity is not his limiting factor, it's the maximum current. Patrick could use a smaller capacity battery, but because of heat buildup, the manufacturers don't put 200A BMSs into 50Ah batteries.
