A good instructional video. I wanted to see your soldering technique as I am trying to solder a 5 pin din. I would have forgotten to heat shrink the screening wire so many thanks to you.
good lesson, Sir. your tip care and heat transfer tinning are outstanding examples i love to twist the crap outta the conductor strands after stripping for the good insulation gap then i tin those red, blk, and gnd conductors and set them in empty cups, confirm insulation gap, add flux then heat and solder till done!
Same. I tin the wires, trim the black and red back maybe 1 mm as the drain wire is offset a bit. A bit of practice and just the right amount of solder holds the wires somewhat firmly in the cups until one can get soldered. Black (or whatever's in the middle) gets soldered first and that holds the rest together for the final 2. Then they all get a dab of solder and a spot of heat - and they're good to go. Harder to burn your fingers this way as the wires start in the cups. Never had any luck filling cups in DB9s...they're just too tight.
Pretty good tutorial.. I've only "fixed" broken xlr cables and resoddered them. Its probably important to note which wire goes on which connection.. and to make sure you do that on both ends!
Pretinning the cups. Very bad show -1. When inserting the pretinned wire into the molten solder in the cup, there is absolutely no flux to assist in wetting. Back in the day with SnPb solder it could work but still very bad work. With leadfree this leads almost instantly to defects.
When you are making a DB-9 cable that will connect to a panel mount mating connector, these flat (their ends are actually curved) work as washers under the heads of the captive screws that are used to secure the connector to it's mate. Looks like these are not used in this video.
Captive screws and washers for connecting to the mating panel-mounted connector. I'm wondering, though, if there are some sort of matching nuts that could be installed on the same connector of the opposite gender (for making a secure cable-to-cable connection).
Fico com a impressão que seria melhor soldar primeiro o pino 5, depois o 3 e por fim o 2, afinal de contas o ferro não corre risco de encostar onde já foi soldado, concordam?
It will depend on the wire and solder that you are using. For this application, a 20 watt might take a bit more time to heat up the bond, but it will work. I would use a 35 watt on this type of wire with 63/37 solder.
