This video demonstrates how to properly solder copper tube and fittings to the newer, no-lead, brass and bronze copper alloys as a result of the new Federal Reduction of Lead in Drinking Water Act.
I think the point about heating the pipe first to cause expansion and close the gap was a great insight. One of those simple things that can be difficult to think of when you are working with new materials. Really helped me with some large ball valves that are hard to get right with the new mandatory silver-solder. I also think the comment-trolls in this thread clearly need to find something useful to do with their time. Thanks for taking time to help a homeowner save money and be successful.
@@allyking84ify you don't want to heat the tube too much in one area, you want to keep moving. Some solders cool down slowly and others in medium range, thus helping with strength and letting that solder get into really tight areas. Just don't cool down tube right away, it can shock the joint, let it cool down ; then wipe clean and inspect.
I don't understand the comments at all, I have 32yrs in the trade (18-50) and I thought the video was Very informative and spot on how to sweat these new lead free valves.
Yeah, there's literally no way to adapt this information to slightly different situations. I guess the only thing to do is make a leaky, failed joint. You win this round, real world plumbers.
That was soldering in a studio in ideal conditions where you can move from one side to the other. Now show how it is done on site when space is tight and you are restricted to one spot.
+Handyjack You are right. And not only that, by applying that much heat to the copper pipe can cause annealing of the copper. I found that Tinning Flux works a little better for soldering the no-lead valves.
With insulation, plastic thermometers or even the valve handle it self is right where u want to put flame in position and can't lol. Check my channel I have a few vids of real life work.. no shots during.. not a way to record on site and I think the general might flip if I'm more worried about a RU-vid video then getting water hooked up
I'm an electrician who occasionally is forced to do some plumbing. I hate plumbing. Today I soldered in a main shut off ball valve in 1" with some other fittings with lead free solder. I discovered exactly what these guys are saying about heat the pipe first, then the body just enough to ensure the solder sucks in. The video? My gosh, I'm just an amateur but I would be disappointed if I was dripping solder like that. Buy ten pounds and pour 9 of them out on the floor?
I liked the explanation of why you should heat the pipe first. other than that, I saw a lot of wasted solder, & too much heat on the valve body... also it seems it took 5 times longer than it should have for a 1 inch valve....
Beats Planet - Rap Beats / Instrumentals : my god... they are trying to get us through the pipes! Melting himself so they can strike when we least expect it and rob us of our water! Did you see his look at 6:50? Plotting it in his robo-brain.
What they said here makes sense EXCEPT for their application of solder. Here, they first place solder next to the flame's contact with the joint. Other videos I've seen suggest placing the solder on the OPPOSITE side of where the flame was applied. 1) This proves the ENTIRE joint has been sufficiently heated. 2) Solder tends to wick TOWARDS the hottest spot
Done right the first time! That's taking pride in our work. Nothing like them non union plumbers. That's why all that non union plumbing work has gone to illegal immigrant workers. Go to any non union construction and no one speaks English! Go Trump!
I use tinning flux and it works great on the lead free products. what I have noticed the lead free products are very heat sensitive so I rely on thermal conductivity from the copper to the lead free product and have no problem at all.
All of that heat had to ruin the inner seal and that's a lot of wasted solder! Still a helpful video thanks for the time, information and not laughing in each others face while filming!!
I won't go into the deplorable soldering technique, others have already thrashed that to death, but what I haven't seen anyone else mention is that the handle of that ball valve is in the wrong position. The valve is closed, which means the hole machined in the ball itself is sealed at both ends. Get a little water in there, heat the shit out the valve(like they are doing), the water turns to steam, and bang! Ball valves can, and have, exploded under those conditions. Always solder ball valves with the valve in the *open* position.
Doctor Shred I just bought a ball valve made by Apollo and it states right on the label solder it with the valve open! Though it is a lead free version hope it goes well for me
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I could’ve just gotten the threaded ones to thread on my copper air lines but I was curious about learning so I tackled it. 175lbs of pressure from my 80 gallon tank and no leaks after soldering one of these ball valves. But I didn’t do all this heating up🤔I just did enough to where the lead melted and that was it
Thank you very much for this. I only have one doubt, which is the amount of solder to use. In the old paradigm (lead alloys) I always heard to only use a length of solder as long solder as the diameter of the pipe. People said the excess might run into the pipes. Is it really ok to simply push the rod into the joint like that, will the excess allways drop to the outside? And what about vertical joints, how do we know how much and when to stop?
Been sweating copper and brass and bronze for forty six years..That ball valve is probably toasted.Would love to see both of these guys in a tight wet and muddy ass crawl space for just one day doing shit like that with that cold ass torch.This is just class room bullshit.
Is this guy seriously heating up the tubes for an endless time, then tries to solder it and even than heats the shit up and just lets it drip and drip and drip and drip because he doesn't stop pointing his torch at the solder? I am no professional but this doesn't look like someone knows what he is doing
I think the difference might be that he is not working with 1/2 inch pipe, so the volume of the copper pipe and, more so, the volume of the brass is much greater than household plumbing. I am not a professional either.
I just soldered an 1-1/4" lead free Copper union. The only brass-like component on it was the locking nut. Made soldering easier and I was able to use about 1/4 of the solder our friend here uses. However, another 1" lead free brass-like union I used did take quit a while I noticed, but still didn't require as much solder as our friend here drips on the floor. Am I doing something wrong by starting at the top, working my way around and stopping once it starts dripping solder? I am not a pro, but a DIY homeowner.
Why are you wasting so much solder? Where in the world did you learn how to solder. Have a real plumber show you how to solder. We do not even waster one drop of solder.
George Lentz Just use Apollo Lead Free Valves. Apollo went bismuth instead of silicon. You can solder them just like the leaded valves. Who wants to drip solder all over the place? I see folks being told they need special flux , they need to heat the valve more etc....all that is only true for the silcon product. Apollo doesn't use Silicon to replace the lead.
solder job was horrible. question; when soldering any ball valve like that, opened or closed? I would assume opened(no water flow or existing line yet)
New, no-lead brass and bronze copper alloys? When did brass and bronze ever contain lead? The solder is the part w/ the lead in it. Are these guys for real?
Its more a century that plumbers used lead alloy to solder tubes and fittings without killing nobody ! Yes, plumbing was hazardous when plumbers user lead tubing, nowadays... These laws are pure technocrats deliriums just like ROHS in electronics. I bought a synthetiser ten years ago, the components and circuitry of one of the best synths ever made was engineered for assembling with lead solder ( low fusion temperature) ( ALESIS A6 Andromeda synth ) According to the ROHS laws without changing any component the assembly factory went to sold with lead free solder alloy ( Hight fusion temperature) and then, catastrophy, a synth on two were bad with this absurd ROHS law, does anybody want to open a synth to suck and chew the circuits and the componants ? In solder tubing the exposed solder surface in contact with water in less than 4 mm^2 for 1/2 " int diameter for each fitting ! I watched carefully at solder joints in tubing 50 years old of constant servicing, there was no erosion at all in the joints ! Will you be poisoned for that ! The water entering your installation is that so clean ? Try to ask for warranty of your water company, for pesticids traces or medical residues for exemple ... I'm not sure you get an answer ! ( I apologise for my poor english, i'm french...)
thats ok but what happenes to the . valve so tell me what happens to the seal in side the valve . you meelt it. you have to take it apart to do the job
the seam? you mean where the valve halves screw together? overheated and cooked out the "thread-locker/sealant" did that myself in the past, concentrate the heat more onto the pipe in-front of the valve at first, then move onto the valve body as it flows working around as best as you can. one thing to note, I "always" use tinning type flux as it;s my finding you need to nearly burn it away to nothing via pipe heating. unless you like leaky valves... the brass/makeshift junk they're pushing now is pure trash, I've had more fittings than not pinhole in the middle of casting for no reason than ones that survived. threaded brass nipple still seem ok.......................
we are finding very difficulty in brazing with 16 mm mild steel to copper tube of 0.6 thickness.whenever we do brazing copper tube gets burn out.distance between one copper tube to another is small. please suggest what to do ?
please people open the ball valve wide open so the stainless port covers the nylon seat so you can Sauder the valve with no damage as long as you have the torch on the valve for minimal time half inch joint should take half inch of Sauder (not 5inch for 1 inch) and a 3/4 joint should take 3/4 and so on .soon as it takes the solder take the Heat away!
Soldering a ball valve is tricky... Not usual. The Nylon seat of the stainless steel ball doesn't like at all to be heated ... If you had to do that because you can't do otherwise , try to use the lowest fusion temperature soldering alloy and for more security , you can wrap your valve in moisten sheets of newspaper letting nude only the place to solder. Don't overheat. The nylon seat is relatively protected.( for low pression water only )I use to do that every time , i'm a retired plumber 65 years old.... Began to learn the job at sixteen... But to avoid any problem : For security : use a mixed connection ( one side to solder, one side to screw screw in the valve ) In France your method is strictly forbidden for gaz tubing installation and in case of accident if you worked like in your demonstration, it's jail, directly....
Ball valves years ago use to have a tag on them which read solder in the closed position ( Apollo is one name that comes to mind). Read nibco bulletin NTB-1012-01.Don't see a problem either way so long as you are careful. I have solder thousands of 1-1/2 thru 4 in. ball valves and am still doing it today building domestic water boosters. Enjoy your retirement. I'll get there some day.
My god I cannot believe what I just watched. I have been plumbing and doing Med gas for 41 years. The first few joints I ever did went better than this circus. These people need to be banned from giving these little " lessons". This was painful to watch!
I don't think these guys have used anywhere NEAR enough solder for that joint...they used like over a foot!!!!!!!!!! Far better to use a full 2 or 3 meters...you know..just to make sure. I love it how they start at the bottom of the fitting too
Or you can heat the pipe and joint evenly at the same time by using a nifty little device known as a "Solder Snake", available at Ferguson. While only engaged with 50% of the pipe. First hands free reflective heat shield.
please do not watch this video people, been plumbing over 10 years and this is wrong it should never take this long to solder a pipe, and you never run the flame over the seal on the ball valve, clueless
I just did that same valve today and after pressurizing the chilled water system it leaked where the 2 valve bodies meet what a bummer that nylon washer took a hit . Oh well lets change the valve again... by the way why are they using oxy for this application?? Anyone know?
This is useful video with good information. Unfortunately the demonstration lacked a critical component i.e. a technician with the skills to properly and efficiently sweat a joint. You don't get to spend all day "painting" up and down the pipe or dripping a half pound of solder on the deck when you are in the field. Soldering pipe takes practice and management should know enough to use a sharp tech to demonstrate the technique to impress their audience. If you want the video to go viral get some talent. MA Master Plumber, Steam and Gas fitter.
Really. You have that much solder waste on just one joint. Heating up is correct. Starting at the bottom is correct. Buy a larger tip. Is doesn't matter on how fast you heat your pipe and fittings as long as you do it in the correct steps. You would go broke trying to solder fitting that slow. I've also been doing this for 45 years. I've never had a joint fail. But I always put flux on my complete part of my pipe and fittings. Not just put some on the end of the pipe and "Hope" when I slide it into the fitting it covers the other areas. That part was totally incorrect. You can't argue that point. If you have no flux touching any part of your pipe or inside your fittings. Your solder will not stick to that area. Or flow into that area. I guess I need to buy me a button down shirt and talk like a machine. Then I can Teach!! You had enough heat on the fitting to melt the seat.. It might not ever shut off after you're done with it.
you're an idiot.. you never want to apply the solder from the top most of the people that solder that way have leaks ... the way this guy soldered is the most text book way to do it
+Ashlee Chavez well I've been soldering for 16 years and can count on one hand the amount of leaks I've had. This is not text book. if you think so, you're the idiot
Ashlee Chavez you must be involved with this video somehow. You defend the video when the real plumbers are educating you. Listen to the real plumbers and stop defending. Not to say there isn't any good info in this video, heating the pipe first was useful info. @@ashleechavez3631
huge torch blast the pipe mostly, use tinning flux, mor eor less "BURN" the liquid flux away, move to fitting off pipe and flow solder whilst attempting to move around junk "brass" quickly and immediately cool it without banging it around.....
Oh Dear, this is benchwork stuff which is for trainees, and it is appallingly bad, imagine in real situations, under baths, floors, tight spaces where its full of wood that sets on fire, you cannot teach anyone to solder joints like this, it is a skill achieved over a long period of time, I suppose you have to start somewhere, but not here, the only thing they got right was the "heat the tube first" bit, and it is a capillary joint, if the joint is clean and you apply the heat correctly, you only need a few dabs with the end of the solder and it will draw itself in. ps is it spelt SoLder, or SoRder, I always thought it was Solder.
Watched the first two minutes(yawn)...I’ve never soldered different materials, brass and copper...I heated the brass first and then just touched the copper a little with the flame, worked fine. New flux is garbage and will burn like butter so you can’t heat both materials at the same time. I tried to keep the heat at the end of the brass fitting and then moved in towards the junction point. I haven’t sweated a joint in 15 years and I’m gonna have to dig around for my old stuff because the new shit is shit! I thought it was a little runny from being in the hot car but it’s literally the consistency of apple butter.
WTF!!! How'd I end up on this guy's videos again? I just saw the previous video. What was demonstrated was how not to sweat a joint. Please stop!!! Jane, get me off this crazy thing!!!
With the excess solder falling off someone could join like 5 times the tubes and componets you guys are. Really a shame to see a man twice my age delivering such an outcome
Screw copper. Plastic tubing and fittings are more durable and no sweating involved. Just get a fitting or valve that has threaded fittings. Pex has demonstrated this thoroughly. And it is flexible and color coded; idiot proof.
