Thank you for the info. I have soldered many a XT-60 connectors and not once I have I coupled the male & the female XT-60s together, while soldering. The soldering tip temperature read as 350C. All I did was, one drop of KESTER 951 and use 60/40 Lead to pre-tin the wire end of the connector fairly well. The 16~14 AWG silicone Black & Red cable were also pre-tinned using Kester 951, (in place of solid rosin). Then the cable end of the connector was heated to melt the lead and inserted the Silicone cable into it. And after seeing the both ends were satisfactorily fused, removed the Iron and puffed on it so solidify the joint. All the above procedure took about 5 seconds or less. Not once did I melt the GUNINE XT-60 (AMASS Brand) But Once I melted the whole “duplicate” XT-60 Connector, that was bought from a fraudulent seller on eBay, who was reported and refund obtained. So be aware of GENINE XT-60 AMASS Brand when buying XT-60 that doesn’t require coupling of male & female connectors while soldering. There are several colours available, Black, Yellow, Blue. You may also obtain only female XT-60 connectors, if need be. I’d pay tribute to KESTER 951, by all means, for the clean flow of 60/40. Please try Kester 951 which is sold on eBay. Please do understand that, I was not trying to contradict your style of soldering. With due respect......
I'm converting several models to these connectors. Seems every few years a new trend in connectors comes along. You may want to grab one of those clip-on heat sinks- clip it to the exposed end of the 'empty' connector opposite the one you're soldering and it will pull the heat through and away from the plastic.
Thanks, this really helped soldering my two batteries. However, taking off my finished battery from the steel clamp that I used, I touched the clamp with the exposed contacts from the rear end of the male connector causing short circuit. So with the second battery, I first insulated these contacts with some heatshrink tube (battery still seem to work well by the way).
Try not to have excess led from the start to avoid sucking it back up. If you do you should reheat the entire lead. Try not to move the connectors, anytime you do the lead turn matt, it should be shiny. Great tip for XT60 and I love the jig and I too use the soldering iron to heat my shrink tubes (which we both know we shouldn't). Thanks for sharing.
No need to cool down the wire before tinning the connector side. Also moving it around (or squeezing it) while it's still warm may cause cracking inside the joint. As you are working, the heat is transferring away from the joint; the faster you work, the less damage you have to adjoining components like the connector body or the wire insulation. Whenever possible apply the heat to the opposite side of the joint from where you add the solder. The will ensure it's warm enough for the solder to flow everywhere inside the joint to make a complete connection.
Holy Tunderin JESUS this comment section must be the absolute biggest gathering of professional custom PCB solderers in the WORLD! lolol Your video is great man, for the beginner hobby solderer it is a great demonstration because (obviously) no one is going to get it perfect on their first go round and watching you fix little mistakes is almost more effective than just showing your best solder ever. BTW the proper time to use a solder sucker is... WHENEVER YOU NEED IT lol Sorry but some of these idiots are just too much for me. Does the connection work? yes. Is it a strong bond? yes. Will people feel more comfortable doing this work themselves after watching this video? YES! lol Keep doin what your doin my friend.... cheers from the yukon sir!
Haha thanks man..ypu from.the eastcoast ot wha with the lord tundering jesus remark haha. Yea I'm just glad there commenting and giving me the views. Helps with my adsense paycheck. :) watch my soldering naze32 video for a more professional job..and yes I love my solder sucker. Thanks for the kind words m8.
didnt think to connect the male and female together ...ugh thanks for the tip. Ruined 2 xt90's.. the heat needed for that high guage melts the connector
Alright so I'm new to XT60s and, for the life of me, I could not get my tinned wire to actually fit into the tiny barrel end of the XT60. It'll fit in the shovel portion of it just fine but I really thought it needed to be shoved all the way in there for a good connection. But, after watching this video, it looks like I'm not the only one that doesn't have em seated all the way in. Honestly, XT60s seem like a good idea having genders and all but, how they're made really isn't that convenient at all. Dunno why they wouldn't just make the connectors more of a full barrel and just a tiny bit wider so that you can actually fit 10AWG in em. I know there's XT90s out there but seems like the 60s should still be a tad bigger. Overall, I much prefer Anderson Powerpole connectors and consider those the gold standard.
can u please help me. My loop to connect to 2 2 cell batteries to my rc car popped off. While car was running. Will that cause a spark? Or will it just break the circuit? My car caught on fire, burning the ESC and the servo and the one of the batteries. I'm trying to find out the cause of the fire. I drove my car for 2 min before it caught on fire.
eastcoast78 Twat? I merely commented on how much you constantly apply heat to the connector when there is no need. Adding another connector as a heat sink is not needed. Obviously they will melt with that much heat. Who cares if I have 3 subscribers? I don’t have time to sit on my arse uploading videos to RU-vid. Try watching some RU-vid videos on soldering. Might help. 🤗
Thank you for posing this! As someone who had not done any soldering for years it was exactly what I was looking for. :) One question: What is that clamp called that you use? I want to get one and I can't seem to find them. Thank you again!
thx, but why cutting off the old plug? I cut the cover open and remove the connector by heating them with the heat gun at 350 C, so you save wire length and the tips are tinned already 😉, of course one after the other 🤣
i had trouble when soldering, the solder just beaded up on the iron and didnt go on the conection, and when i was able to get it on the solder was black. eastcoast78 could you tell me what im doing wrong?
Its probably shitty solder. Is it the pluming kind? Get a good 60/40 rosin core solder and you should not need flux or anything extra to help bond. Turing black means its to hot. So if it was on the iron for a long time this would happen.
Great video but you used way too much solder. If you use the correct amount in the first place you wouldn't have to mess around with the solder sucker.
No wonder you melt your plastic. How many times did you melt that solder? If you need a heatsink press a ball of tinfoil inside the socket then tin the wire and terminal ONCE then join the parts by getting them clamped in place, tin the soldering iron tip cos the blob of motel solder transfers the heat faster. heat the joint and feed some solder onto the joint so it flows around the joint. Do it just one time so you get a shiny even coating of solder. DO NOT heat it again or it will go grey and is no good..
You seem like a pro at soldering, upload a video so we can learn...i use my heatsink method just to sped up the process. No plastic melted... Melt the solder? i dont need to do that with my iron, but someone trying to do this with a cheap 25w iron well have problems, pre heating the bullet connect will help them. Looking forward to your tutorial video...PS i am not using TIN FOIL LOL
eastcoast78 ok solder king, i wasn't trying to be a smart ass (like you), i was just pointing out for the soldering newbs out there not to do that. it's like pulling any plug from a household outlet by the cord and not the plug...your just inviting trouble for yourself
Good video, but you did add too much solder, just an observation. You will always get haters that have nothing better to do, at least you have the balls do try to help people, constructive criticism is always welcome in my mind. keep it up :-)
Adding my compliments to everyone else's. This is an excellent soldering job and tutorial. Too many other videos here get it completely wrong. Cold solder joints abound. Your technique is excellent. I'd let you solder a connector for me any day.
Your wire diameter should never exceed your connecter terminal width or diameter. Use bigger connectors for larger wires. They make XT30 XT60 and XT90 for this reason. When your connector terminals are smaller width/diameter than your wire, you create a hot spoke where the amps basically get "choked" through too small of a guage terminal.
One tip, when getting the terminal and wire ready to solder, only tin them just enough, then when putting them together feed some more solder into it until it is the right amount. If you put too much solder on then have to remove some, the process of reheating then cooling only some of the solder can cause a weaker joint. Other than that, great :)
@@FranklinHarding yeah, I avoid explicitly tinning any connector when at all possible. Dip both the wire & connector in flux, tin the wire & go directly into the connector. Connector may become tinned from the dab of solder on the iron to promote heat transfer, but that's it. Feed some solder if necessary. Not taking the time to tin the connector keeps the wire from cooling & that retained heat means the iron is heating the connector for as little time as possible.
I'm glad you pointed out not to cut both battery wires at the same time. I feel like that's one mistake you just saved me from. I have anderson 50SB connectors on a 48v ebike battery. If I ever need to change guys, I need to remember this. thanks a ton.
OMGoodness! That's way too much work! With anderson powerpole, you don't need to solder. I could have done that battery connector in less than a 30 seconds (both wires).
You want those little solder globs or spikes. The solder globs hold on to the shrink tubes. Flux the wire and XT60 connector after you tin and before you solder on the wire. This excess flux provides for good solder flow.
XT suck the plastic holder gets soft you can hear the plastic sizzling in there. If you have a short wire put heat shrink on with in a few inches where your soldering and it shrinks when you solder it. EC3 and EC5 are way better and easier connect no heat shrink to bother with if you heat the blue plastic part up with a heat gun little it clicks right in with little force.
if u dont have a big enough gap for thicker wires, just clamp hard down on a drill bit installed in a drill, & run the drill for a few seconds, then you'll have a gap big enough in your wire strippers. or just use a bic lighter like most people
if you cool the sorter too quick it's not going to stick properly let it cool by itself take a wet paper towel and wipe around the insulation on the wire to keep it cool but let the end it by itself
OMG... I am sorry, but you used TOO much solder, which also lead to TOO much heat on that connector. Soldering should be 3-5 second deal... You should not pre-fill the connector with all that solder because then you are going to have to heat that crap back again... Do it in one motion... Tin the wire, put it in the connector and in one shot fill the connector with a reasonable amount of solder...
Hey Eastcoast. I tried it last evening but I completely messed it up. I have a 30W soldering iron. Can it be that it is not hot enough? The solder has a hard time melting.
What is that little holder called? Great video! Im thinking of changing all my ec5 to xt90s. Should I use xt90s for my 2s and 3s? Would it hurt? Or do I need xt60s?
U snapped off too much of the length of the cable there buddy. Do that shit again and one day you`ll end up with no length left. Deans T connector FTW !
I like the way you did one connection at a time and completed one connection at a time that makes a lot of sense but just for future reference the what you cut off of the wire is called insulation or a jacket that's not called heat shrink or shrink tubing just so you know it doesn't really matter but I mean if I was going to be doing a video I think I'd want to call it what it is but you know
Make sure you put a bit extra solder on the wire. I normally put none on the XT60. Then i only set the tip on the top and press the wire down. The extra solder help transfer the heat around the wire rather than heat the wire itself. Putting too little will overheat the wire and not solder causing issues. The posts that say this guy does not know what he is dong is actually backwards and they do not understand that the extra solder is needed. I do agree since he added some solder to the XT60 as well he was slightly heavy on the solder. But better to have too much than too little. You can drip off the excess from the bottom which has not effect on holding the wire.
Awesome I have one exact battery that I bought when I was starting out in the rc hobby last year. Bought some XT60 connectors cut the battery wire but was not able to solder them properly. Going to give it another chance.
The wire doesn't need to go down into the hollow of the bullet? And you don't need flux... especially to tin the end of the stranded wire? I am a total newb at soldering and have just screwed up my first XT60 job. (twice) I filled mine up with solder and tried to push my tinned wire down into it and it went about half as far as I wanted it to... and now I can't re-melt it to get it to move in or out. Done it twice now and feel very frustrated. But if it just needs a little bit there on the edge, that would be alot easier.
i hear ya, no it really does not need to go all the ways in. I have had batterys come in from hobby king and they were just soldered on the outer of the bullets. What iron do you use, like how many watts is it? yes i tin the wires., tin the bullets solder them and slide them in the best i can.
Here's the iron I use... It's listed as 700 watts but who really knows with the chinese stuff. www.ebay.com/itm/131713244885?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Last one I did, I copied you. Pre-tinned the wire & bullets. Tried to get both hot at the same time and then shove the wire as far into and tight to the side of the bullet as I could. But it didn't go as far as I wanted and it's crazy hard to get the solder to re-melt again so I can try to re-seat it. I have the iron turned up all the way. Display says 480-deg.
sounds like your iron isn't transferring heat well enough. Tin your iron up again (get it hot, and wipe it down with a wet cloth to clear off any liquid solder) than hold it against your project work and apply a ~small~ amount of fresh solder and it should melt everything all the way through. Even a basic soldering pencil should have enough heat to do this job and more, but if you're still having trouble, try upgrading to a soldering gun, they have a little more oomph. I've also had renewed success with just putting a fresh tip on the pencil. And just to say, I feel the demonstration in the video uses WAY too much solder.
what is the wattage of soldering do i need? co'z i'm just using 30 watts then the solder is not sticking on the end wire it just turned into like a small stone that drops mostly in XT60 as well
