So I got the solenoid & new brakes working great, but the same problem was going on before the old solenoid broke. She'll go about 1/2 a mile at 13mph, then slow down to about 7 for another 1/8 of a mile & then only go about 1mph. I could push her faster. The funny thing, after pushing for awhile, she'd charge up a little somehow. Then we're back to 1mph for 200ft. I pushed her the last 400ft, so I could get her up my steep driveway & into the garage. Bought a Beblee charger that thing does more than the original charger, but I don't get why she does that? When I got home all 6 batteries are still at 33.3Volts. It shouldn't slow down like that? So in my 1993 ClubCar DS I have this mysterious black plastic box next to the 6th battery. Negetive terminal under the drivers side. My neighbor who I bought the cart from, says I should never open that. But I think I should. I thought it was an air filter, but that's dumb since I don't have a gas engine. Bunch of cables coming out there leading to the Forward & Reverse switch. Who'm ever had it before me has intersecting cables in different colors, so the original manual don't match. If the plugged cables in that thing are loose, that would do this right?
That triangle shaped piece is called a V Glide, they are model specific, on the back side of the V Glide under the cover, there are resistors, this is what makes your speed, in your case likely one of these resistors is burning hot and fails, if you let it cool it usually resumes function, however this is a sign the V Glide needs replaced. If your handy, I recommend a V Glide Upgrade kit to MCOR .... both of these items are a "multi-step potentiometer" in other words. I can ship these or any other items directly to you, call us 833-CARTSMD (833-227-8763) to order. When calling, please have your carts serial number handy.
Yeah, so I replaced the viper glide switch, but the new one didn't come with the resistors, so I took the old ones and put them in the new one & that worked. Where do I get the resistors? Mine is set to 13 MPH, which is fine, but a little faster would be nice. I have finally come to the conclusion it's the batteries. They're 6 years old this month, she's not holding her charge no more. 2x around the pool & she won't make it up the driveway. I'll be replacing the batteries at 2 a month for 3 months. Can't afford all at the same time. Btw, the Solenoid is in and works, but it clicks really loudly. The old one was quiet. Did I do something wrong with that?
@@stephenolsson649 You DEF need new batteries, old batteries like yours have been known to cause even more damage in the long run, its why the MFG of your cart (and every cart MFG on the planet) recommends new lead acid batteries EVERY 4 years, regardless of how well they still work, greedily, people keep pushing and pushing, not knowing they are causing heat resistance in resistors, and melting the inside of controllers, Ive seen old batteries cause thousands of dollars in damage, needlessly. Start with new Trojan batteries, Also, 13mph is the factory speed of that cart.
If I am understanding this correctly, there is no up or down on this solenoid? I took mine off of my cart and waiting on the replacement, just want to make sure I put the wires on the correct post. Thank you.
Mines is literally the same cart. The batteries are good. Just did the mcor. It run for about 2 mins then dies. You let it sit and it will run again. Kinda like the longer it sits the more mins you can ride. Any help?
"Yours" is which cart? Their are 2 different carts in the background, they are both Club Cars, one is a Precedent 48v model whilst the other is a DS 36v model, neither are similar in any way except the brand name,... Solenoids usually work, or dont work, they are very rarely intermittent, if you have black/white/grey/ or red batteries and they are 2 to3 years old the batteries will be a prime suspect, Only Trojan brand batteries (their maroon) last 4 to 6 years, if so, your controller may be shutting off due to poor amperage from batteries, if your telling me your batteries are good because you have the right voltage you need to realize that its not voltage so much as its amperage that moves the cart, of course, if I knew exactly what model you have, I could shed more light on the issue. But based on what little info I have, Id lean towards battery age and/or quality being the issue, or a loose/corroded terminal/cable
Actually, I changed my mind. I'm gonna try something else 1st. Gonna get new resistors before new batteries. I installed a digital volt meter in the dashboard and can now watch it closely. When I drive around for 7 minutes that meter says 18.7V & gotta push her home. Got home checked the batteries with another volt meter & all the batteries were fully charged, then the volt meter in the dashboard showed the same after 10 minutes. They should really put a sign up saying "Resistors - SOLD SEPERATELY"!! The question is, how do I set the speed? Do I have to put the resistors in some kind of order? I want to go up to 18MPH.
Hi, thank you for that! Now I almost know how to hook up my new 36V 10L0L electric solenoid. The thing is, who'm ever had it before me has altered the color codes from the original manual, in ways you would laugh at & scratch your head. Can I send you some pics of my solenoid? The switch is supposed to be hooked to one of the small poles right? Mine is hooked up to one of the big ones. Someone tried hot wiring it awhile back, so the cable to the switch on the big pole has melted into the surrounding cables. The inverter burned, but didn't blow up the whole thing. The solenoid stopped working shortly after too. Right now I'm installing new brake cables. I wish I could flip it on its side, but I'm not taking those heavy clumps out again. I am saving up for the LithiumDakota battery though. 1 instead of 6. Any help would be greatly appreciated. She comes from Lost Lakes, Florida. Abandoned 25 years ago in an abandoned garage along with her "sister". Neighbor has that one. We were supposed to fix them together, but the pandemic got me stuck in Sweden for 2.5 years, so he fixed his without me & now he doesn't have time to help me. I'm pretty good with electronics. Mechanical cars are my thing, this electric thing is all new to me. But I wanna learn!!
This video shows how virtually all load solenoids work, in particular, all 4 post solenoids there are 2 little wires, 2 big wires, it dosent matter which side goes where, but the big wires (cables) bolt onto the big terminals, the little wires bolt onto the little terminals, not much more to it than that, sounds like your making it more complicated than needs be.....I wouldnt be much more help if the video dosent help, I would recommend calling a qualified golf cart repair company nearest you, all in, your bill would be around $200 IF it is just a solenoid replacement
Yes it should be normal for a solenoid to get warm. I intern for a company that makes a bunch of these solenoids and we have heat run chambers to measure how much heat output they give. If it’s too much it may cause coil burnout or the housing to melt.
