The air flow + coil feed which pushes burning coil. The feed pipe and the reservoir are air-sealed so there is no way for the fire to go there. Some boilers have melting safe guard in the feed pipe which melts in case of an excessive heat and lets water from attached reservoir to flood the feed pipe. It shuts down by stopping the fan. With no air feed the fireplace dies out.
unless you live a few miles from a coal mine you shouldn't get one of these. Coal is expensive here. We just drove 6 hours return to get 29.21 tonnes of coal. that' s 64,262 pounds of coal. Cost was $51 per tonne for the coal, $83.00 per tonne for carbon tax about $ 4100.00 plus trucking costs. And that's lignite coal too.
I have similar boiler like this. It's very good system of heating. I like it, but i have problem with right settings for higher efficiency. I have to clean boiler every day from ash.
We had a wood pellet stove that had the same construction. The problem I had was the pellets would crust up and not burn, or the pot would coke up to the point of jamming the auger. I was glad to stop using that thing.
In this case you should use an UPS for the pump to keep circulating the boiler's water or if you haven't one, the thermostatic valve which is mandatory under the regulation will open when the water's temperature sets a limit of 90 degrees and then an automating filling unit will supply the system with cold water. So no worries about this.
Fire will die. Fuel tank is sealed with rubber gaskets. So there is not enough air to support fire. In case of corrosion of the chest or if you leave tank hatch open you will get a lot of smoke in the room. This is not big problem if the worm drive is working. When enough heat is detected it will work until all hot coal is expelled out of the pipe. If you are really worried about the fire. You can mount water tank in the middle of the worm drive. There is a cap that will melt if enough heat and water will stop fire. Had one in my house. This is piece of trouble. Use only if you are far from gas pipe or you can't afford heat pump. Lots of mess. And you need proper settings to coal you get. Otherwise expect unburned fuel. "Elephant foot" growing in the burner instead of ash. Also coal needs to be perfect dry. Otherwise box will corrode in 2c seasons. As i said. Last resort technology.
Every 10 days you have to work on this thing and it still needs electricity to run, what is the point I don't get it? My gas furnace needs no work, just set the thermostat and that's it.
It's for places where you don't have a cheap supply of gas. It happens. I live in an area where natural gas lines don't exist yet, so the demand is taken up by propane businesses who set up a big tank of propane at *each* house that's regularly refilled by trucks. If that doesn't exist, the next best solution is solid fuel. Of course, solid fuels are usually cheaper per BTU than propane but marginally more expensive than natural gas. That's offset by the maintenance needed just to run it. Most people go for the ease and convenience of liquid or gaseous fuels. Electrical heating is the LAST resort as it's usually the most expensive. However, electrical heating is competitive when running a heat pump with a COP of 2 or more, however, those don't work very well in colder climates unless you get a Ground-source unit instead of an air-source unit --- and those get very expensive fast.
Thing with wood pellets, they crust over and clinker, so they won't burn. Coal has a far higher heating ability, you can get it wet without destroying it, it makes less harmful dust, burns for longer, and the ash is a lot less dusty and flaky. Generally easier to use.
Ini cara yang tidak aman, dimana api batu bara bisa menjalar melalui skru, ini akan terjadi kembaran hebat Gunakan coal feeder dan traveling grear untuk mengatasi hal itu
O que não mostra e a dificuldade de fazer limpezas. Conheço uma melhor com limpeza altomatizada VC só tem que tira um saco com .está VC tem que limpar os tubos .
Как вариант он определяет увеличение нагрузки на шнек через увеличение тока двигателя и предпринимает различные действия в зависимости от программы. Например, даёт несколько раз реверс и если нагрузки не пропадают то встаёт в аварию и может сообщить об этом.
Ну а если имеете ввиду угол трубы под самой горелкой то там такое маловероятно, если топливо пролезло через шнек то оно прекрасно выдавливается на верх
Там почему-то самой золы как таковой мало, весь углерод на 99,9% выгорает, уголь кстати тоже нужен обогащенный, но бл.. пыли и Сади от него это ад!) Я видел такой в работе, котельная вся черная как угольный ящик и это буквально лет за пять...