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Solid Gold, Joshua Tree - 5.10b - Kelly Fields & Roddy McCalley 

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Multi-Pitch Climbing: Solid Gold, Joshua Tree
5.10b - Kelly Fields & Roddy McCalley
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Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the program is designed to include maximum information in a concise way that is easy to understand and assimilate. For that reason most chapters are built on the knowledge acquired in previous ones (e.g., Rope Basics → Top-Roping → Lead Climbing → Sport Climbing → Trad. Climbing).
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Rock climbing is fun but there is an element of risk. In some situations if you are not careful, the chances of serious injury or death are very real. A safety oriented mindset is essential.
The right attitude includes not thinking that just by watching videos and reading articles you will become a safe and experienced climber. Experience comes with practice. Practice means making occasional mistakes and learning from them.
We believe qualified in-person training should be the main way of learning and progressing in rock climbing. A good mentor, guide or teacher will make learning as safe as it can be, by assessing your level and every situation.
Our videos are meant to inform and entertain. Although our videos can be very helpful, they are not meant to replace in-person teaching by a qualified professional, nor they are meant to replace reading and understanding the instructions and manuals of rock climbing equipment-which we strongly advise you to do. (Manufacturers recommendations occasionally change, and it is a good idea to stay updated by visiting their websites.)
Have fun and be safe out there!

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26 мар 2020

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Комментарии : 118   
@jerrycinnamon2257
@jerrycinnamon2257 3 года назад
One of the most accomplished videos in terms of filming, climbing skill, anchor skills that I have seen. As a, now retired, climbing instructor, I appreciate it.
@videoracles
@videoracles 3 года назад
Wow, that's quite a compliment and we appreciate it! We made a 100+ free videos that can be found at rockclimb.video. Some of your former students may like them!
@jerrycinnamon2257
@jerrycinnamon2257 3 года назад
@@videoracles The effort that went into your video and the skills shown deserve such a comment. Many of my former students are out there doing it now hopefully in a similar manner.
@Sicnus
@Sicnus 3 года назад
@@videoracles Dude, found your vids and it is an underrated cache of climbing goodness and instruction. I can tell you've put a lot of thought, blood sweat and beer into it. I'm about 33 years too late to take advantage of it, but I wish this was around when I got started and I didn't have to learn how to lead climb from the K2 movie lead scene. LMAO! You know what I mean... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Vm16glCx30U.html Anyway... thanks again man.
@chrisshumpert9885
@chrisshumpert9885 Год назад
One of the most genuinely helpful climbing videos I've ever seen. Very rarely do any anchor building guides actually show you the entire process of climbing, building your anchor, getting off belay, pulling the rope up, and then putting your follower on belay. Incredibly well shot, incredibly practical, no fluff or faff, absolutely excellent all around.
@puglet64
@puglet64 5 месяцев назад
I return to watch this video every now and then, as it is one of the best videos showing all practical aspects of lead climbing and belaying, as well as excellent technique on the different hold types. When will you release more videos? Fwit 5.10b seems harsh (that’s just 6a FR)
@aaronnorlund7110
@aaronnorlund7110 2 месяца назад
Holy halfcrimp and footwork! Really remarkable skills, and her relief at the last bolt before p1 belay was palpable!
@TheK7aloha
@TheK7aloha 7 месяцев назад
Beautiful photography! Greg and Kevin are proud I’m sure! How modern technology has changed filming. Wow! It’s been decades since I’ve been on that climb! You captured her fabulously! Thank you! Aloha from Colorado!
@videoracles
@videoracles 7 месяцев назад
Thank you so much for your comment! Glad you enjoyed it! Aloha!
@joebrophy195
@joebrophy195 3 года назад
Wow! Great leads on the 1st & 2nd pitches. Watching Kelly lead that first pitch was nerve racking for me. She did a great job on those tiny crimps. And very smooth climbing on that second pitch Roddy. Thanks for posting this video up.
@videoracles
@videoracles 3 года назад
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you!!
@billking8843
@billking8843 Год назад
Real clmibing! This should have 30M views! So much better than all those loud bouldering videos of dudebros with their shirts off.
@addsy6396
@addsy6396 2 года назад
Wow. That was great! Can’t wait to see more. Subscribed.
@sergioroman7862
@sergioroman7862 Год назад
smooth , well done in every aspect
@caleb1448
@caleb1448 2 года назад
Everything about this is outstanding! Invaluable content, great work and demonstration!
@brianrick6741
@brianrick6741 3 года назад
Outstanding! I need more Wonderland
@michaeldrumm9943
@michaeldrumm9943 3 года назад
Good to see you still love climbing Roddy!
@partykrew666
@partykrew666 3 года назад
Oh man I love me some slab that route looks gorgeous
@n8mall
@n8mall 3 года назад
Awesome video. I haven't done this route but it looks a lot like the first pitches of Bolee Gold in Tahoe. Looking forward to getting on it!
@cmjack777
@cmjack777 2 года назад
Great filming!
@Psilocy-ben
@Psilocy-ben 2 года назад
Great video, thanks for sharing. I climbed this the other day after watching it and underestimated the second pitch based on how smoothly you climbed and how easy you made it look.
@janentrena
@janentrena Год назад
asmr climbing, love it!
@MrGiggidy90
@MrGiggidy90 2 года назад
thanks for the video, was looking every where for a climbing video, without music and just nature. . . please keep them coming !!!!!!!!!!
@BenFridley
@BenFridley 2 года назад
Great job, Kelly. Miss seeing you around Seneca.
@johnr.gonzales2078
@johnr.gonzales2078 Год назад
I don't comment on climbing videos but you put together an excellent one. The climb and both of you climb your pitch with such style we don't see that in 90% of the videos on RU-vid, Good job!
@grahammiles5695
@grahammiles5695 10 месяцев назад
Gosh. Exquisite technique. Climbing at its highest level. Marvellous.
@JoBianco
@JoBianco Год назад
Really great video
@bobdole8389
@bobdole8389 3 года назад
Holy cow climbing is fun. Loved this video and agreed with all the other comments. The filming, editing, angles and production were on point. The space created by just allowing the ambience of the climb without one word spoken intensified the video for me. That slab just got added to my “must do” list.
@videoracles
@videoracles 3 года назад
Thank you for your comment. Have fun climbing Solid Gold!
@andrebliss8206
@andrebliss8206 3 года назад
This route is fairly well protected for a J-Tree slab route.
@peeeeeeeeeeterable
@peeeeeeeeeeterable Месяц назад
😯
@brianvirgin2995
@brianvirgin2995 2 года назад
Well that takes me back. An Air Force jet went overhead when I topped out. Undoubtedly out of 29 Palms. Incredible route on brown patina. Did Figures on a landscape a few years later with wifey
@jemmons56
@jemmons56 3 года назад
Just recently discovered this and all your other videos. Beautiful climbing, beautifully filmed and edited. Your whole series is one of the best I've found. As a noob trad/multipitch leader, I've found your videos extremely helpful. They also make me want to come climb at JT! Thanks so much for doing these!
@videoracles
@videoracles 2 года назад
Thank you very much!
@vlaaady
@vlaaady Год назад
Great filming and execution! Truly lots of work invested into clarity.
@videoracles
@videoracles Год назад
Yes! Thank you!
@georgebaldwin5456
@georgebaldwin5456 2 года назад
WOW, I am 77 and can't even consider a climb of this technical precision. She did wonderfully! Breathtakingly talented!
@JordanGreenPNW
@JordanGreenPNW 3 года назад
Such a great video! Just had my first ever outdoor rock climbing experience at Joshua Tree a few weeks and am now completely obsessed. Great job filming, audio is on point too.
@videoracles
@videoracles 3 года назад
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it! Reach out to Roddy McCalley if you want a guide in JT, he knows the park really well! climbwithroddy.com Have fun and be safe ou there!
@bonefishboards
@bonefishboards 2 года назад
What a great climb
@nicklee9977
@nicklee9977 3 года назад
I have watch this video at least 4 times already. And have watch “video oracle” installation on RU-vid, some also multiple times. Thanks for making all these videos. I learn so much from them. Joshua Tree is our favorite place to climb despite the inconsistent and sandbag rating.
@videoracles
@videoracles 3 года назад
Thanks, glad the videos are helpful! JT has so many routes... and it is unique and beautiful.
@dvelez811
@dvelez811 3 года назад
cool video! now im inspired to go try this one!
@videoracles
@videoracles 3 года назад
Cool! Be safe and have fun!!
@Mike_In_Idaho
@Mike_In_Idaho 3 года назад
I just certified to lead climb at my local gym and I'm super excited to climb outside in the spring with a couple of our instructors. I love this video. I've definitely subscribed for more. Thanks!
@videoracles
@videoracles 3 года назад
Congrats! We have 100+ free videos here: rockclimb.video. Be safe and have fun climbing outdoors!
@brianvirgin2995
@brianvirgin2995 2 года назад
My wife is Norwegian. I met her in JT. Later we would take my mother in law and my daughter up into the Wonderland of Rocks. It's a magical place.
@JoBianco
@JoBianco Год назад
One aspect of the video I enjoyed was no background music. It's nice to hear the clipping and the focus.
@calebwood4171
@calebwood4171 3 года назад
Wow! Best multi pitch documentation ive ever seen! Love all the angles for clarity and definitely awesome climbing! looks like a pretty hard 10b on the first pitch but so cool! Thank you
@videoracles
@videoracles 3 года назад
Thank you!
@trombahonker
@trombahonker 2 месяца назад
Yeah, the cameraperson is like "No no no...LOOK AT THOSE FEET!!"
@bman6065
@bman6065 3 года назад
Roddy! It's Danny Birchman from Georgia you climbed the nose with. Great video it was a pleasure bumping into you on my youtube feed! Looking forward to getting back out that way soon as the world turns brighter. Come to Chattanooga you'd flip over Tennessee Wall!
@videoracles
@videoracles 3 года назад
Hi! From Roddy: Hey Danny! I’ve been wanting to come see you and check out T Wall... hope to make it happen before too long!
@tylerzang134
@tylerzang134 3 года назад
Wow this is so oddly educational. As a new trad climber with some classes under me, I now put 2 and 2 together. Cool anchor. Nice rock checks on placement. Things I needed to see. I oddly want try this route but I learned my josh rating is way lower than my socal sport crag rating. Got some progress to make. Def want to try this route soon.
@videoracles
@videoracles 3 года назад
Good to hear this video is helpful to your climbing. We will also upload several others about gear placement, anchor building, trad climbing, etc. that unlike this video are truly educational. You have the right approach to learning new skills! In-person training as the primary way to learn is the safest. An instructor, guide or mentor can assess one's knowledge and a specific situation on the spot. Be safe and have fun!
@arlie505
@arlie505 2 года назад
nice climb, i left a lot of skin in the tree in the mid 80s. lived there for 5 years.
@freeman792
@freeman792 2 года назад
You should not install your quick through's gate toward moving direction.
@joshlemonds7054
@joshlemonds7054 3 года назад
Great camera work.
@videoracles
@videoracles 3 года назад
Thank you! Nice climbing too :)
@danielpilon6936
@danielpilon6936 11 месяцев назад
Amazing video and thanks for this master class. Technical question: Why using an ATC reverso for belaying from bottom instead of a grigri that autolocks in case of a fall?
@Yarrownew9759
@Yarrownew9759 3 года назад
Nice work, definitely looks like a beautiful climb! Seems like blowing the mantle move on the first pitch could result in a bit of a tumble from that last bolt. With the gri gri belay at the end, I suppose the lower lever wouldn’t have much of a chance of opening since it’s facing the rock right? I’ve always heard to keep quite a bit of space between that device and rock in general, so I’m just curious about that! Either way, fantastic video, very educational and fun to watch!
@videoracles
@videoracles 3 года назад
Thank you! Yes, it's better not to blow that mantle! In this case the Grigri wouldn't be pressed to the ground and it would still lock, but you are correct, leaving space between the Grigri and anything else that could impair the locking mechanism (e.g., rock, equipment) and keeping an eye on it is important!
@SuperKillroy1
@SuperKillroy1 2 года назад
FUN! To stick clip or not to stick clip.
@chopsjazz1
@chopsjazz1 11 месяцев назад
Great video. All send, no bs. And thanks for the limited use of the helmet camera. Those things give me nausea.
@rellify3
@rellify3 3 года назад
Totally rad seeing the whole process from start to finish, thank you so much for making these! One question, I noticed you clipped the existing carabiner of the first pitch anchor with your quick draw as your first piece of protection for pitch two, rather than clipping the quick draw to a ring or trying to squeeze it into the hanger or something. Is there any thing to be aware of here? Is this a safe / recommended thing to do? I like the simplicity.
@videoracles
@videoracles 3 года назад
Thanks for your comment! Here is Roddy's reply: Any of those options would be fine to protect the belay in this scenario. Just be careful not to clip in such a way that the top carabiner on the quickdraw would be cross-loaded in a fall-sometimes you wouldn’t want to clip the bolt hanger for that reason, since the carabiner could get cross-loaded over the ring. Also try to clip something off to the side so that the rope isn’t sawing over your anchor material (cordelette, sling, or whatever you’re using).
@brianvirgin2995
@brianvirgin2995 2 года назад
Looks like a clove hitch on the belay. I could be wrong. Figures on a Landscape, we used buttbags (No, it's climbing gear and not a dirty reference - used one on El Cap)
@Govanification
@Govanification 3 года назад
@14:15 do NOT tie the 2-step clove hitch like he did as the 2nd climber, make an air clove and clip it all at once. If he falls here with one strand clipped, the carabiner will prevent the guide mode device from locking and he'll fall to the end of the rope unless his belayer can hold is weight with her bare hands. SIET did a video on exactly this situation: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-s9np7B1Zao4.html
@videoracles
@videoracles 3 года назад
Thanks for your comment. We have been planning to address that and make it clearer so folks don’t assume it’s okay to tether this way in any scenario. We wish we had shown a way to tether that is safe in every situation, like tethering with a couple of slings or a PAS! Video about tethering: rockclimb.videoracles.com/videos/anchoring/tethering/ Here is Roddy's answer to a similar comment that has since been deleted: "Great comment! I wish we’d addressed that decision rather than leaving it unexplained. At a hanging stance I wouldn’t want to tether this way. In this scenario it makes sense to skip a couple of steps mainly because I won’t fall off the ledge while holding the anchor and tying a clove hitch, but also because even when the plaquette is blocked by the tether carabiner, a sudden fall would not be the catastrophe depicted in SIET's video. Blocking the plaquette in this manner is a lowering technique that Marc Chauvin calls the ‘LSD (Load Strand Direct) lower,’ in his Mountain Guide’s Manual (awesome book) and I use it all the time to lower clients, even in vertical terrain. The LSD lower should be backed up with a third hand, but it does provide a fair amount of friction and a slip from the ledge in less-than-vertical terrain like this would be manageable with a firm hand on the brakes. Thank you for pointing it out!"
@Govanification
@Govanification 3 года назад
@@videoracles Thanks for the reply! I have that book, and I've used the LSD method before, but I always use a 3rd hand backup and I also redirect the brake strand higher up on the anchor so the ATC is actually causing a bend in the rope. Without the redirect or 3rd hand, the climber's weight would be completely held by the belayer's grip strength if a slip happened, however unlikely. The clove hitch is still the best way to tether in most situations, I just wanted to bring this nuanced situation up as it could be deadly.
@videoracles
@videoracles 3 года назад
Thanks again @Govanification. Here is Roddy's reply: Yes, always use a 3rd hand backup when doing an LSD lower! And yes, a clove hitch is almost always the right way to tether, and should be tied off the carabiner and then dropped onto it in steep terrain, which we did not show in this video. Thanks!
@brianvirgin2995
@brianvirgin2995 2 года назад
The holds are all good on the first pitch - which is spectacular. The 2nd pitch is a little harder and not quite as clean
@peteranelson
@peteranelson 2 года назад
Great video of a fantastic route! Interesting figure 8 with an extra turn around the standing end at 23:43...is the idea to make the knot easier to undo?
@videoracles
@videoracles 2 года назад
Thank you! Yes, you can find more info about this knot here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JV9zTyiPMrQ.html and here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sQjW16emNWg.html
@vlaaady
@vlaaady 2 года назад
I just thought that if in the few final meters of ascent the belayer did not give the line in time, the guy would be pooled back and would take 10m fall.
@rangertommy
@rangertommy 2 года назад
Great video. If I were on lead, though, I'd put the draws in so that the gate is directed on the lower 'biner in the opposite direction of my upward movement.
@videoracles
@videoracles 2 года назад
Roddy's reply: Hi Tom, Yes, this is the best practice! I try for that, too, but I'm not perfect at it :) Best, Roddy
@videoracles
@videoracles 2 года назад
Our video on clipping: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-r9OYV5vII38.html
@rangertommy
@rangertommy 2 года назад
@@videoracles Oh hey...the "not perfect" club has a lot of members--myself included. Sometimes, the line is so thin or crimpy that it's enough just go have clipped the draw in any direction. And don't let my "safety tip" comment detract from the excellence of this video! 🙂
@rangertommy
@rangertommy 2 года назад
@@videoracles Excellent instructional video on clipping!!
@bubbyb0i6967
@bubbyb0i6967 10 месяцев назад
Pre-tie the quad on the ground if you know you’re coming to a bolted anchor. Will save you some time.
@rvee5410
@rvee5410 3 года назад
Nice video of a really fun route. BTW, the bolted anchor used atop the first pitch is not the belay for Solid Gold (it is the belay for Middle Age Crisis 11b). The actual belay is off of gear on the ledge to the left.
@Frodoswaggns
@Frodoswaggns Год назад
13a at my gym, oh your Gods.
@benruefmedia
@benruefmedia 2 года назад
Was the first draw backclipped? Probably wrong
@Scooty_McRockhopper
@Scooty_McRockhopper 3 года назад
That’s like a 5.12a at my gym haha. They need to rate gym climbs harder I always get shocked when I go outside
@videoracles
@videoracles 3 года назад
Here is a biased but respectable opinion on grades in JT 😜 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HQUwdfuEkKk.html And here are our videos grades: Rock Climbing Grades: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-w_x5qARbjew.html Bouldering Grades: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-owl3lMP8Rh0.html
@Mike_In_Idaho
@Mike_In_Idaho 3 года назад
I was thinking the same thing! 5.10b? That's more like a 5.11* at my gym. And I can only send 5.10d. I'm projecting a couple of 5.11a/b routes. Fun stuff!
@robertnewell4054
@robertnewell4054 3 года назад
Or perhaps they should stop inflating grades in the Gym. It’s similar to how the McDojo’s work in Martial Arts. Since you have a paying clientele & numbers are so important the Gyms give the consumers what they want. This climb, Solid Gold, was established on the lead without pre•inspection or sticky rubber shoes or spring loaded camming devices. The Gym should be a place to learn & train. True & honest climbing will always be outside on real rock
@chanda2023
@chanda2023 9 месяцев назад
ASMR climbing
@Papershields001
@Papershields001 2 года назад
I think the eagles of death metal recorded a song called “solid gold” in Joshua Tree.
@torreyintahoe
@torreyintahoe 8 месяцев назад
You should do figures on a landscape.
@jamescampbell2521
@jamescampbell2521 2 года назад
Beautiful line, well done. Could do without the helmet -cam though, IMO.
@JoBianco
@JoBianco Год назад
One question I had was why Kelly used an ATC to belay on the second pitch rather than a grigri? It's totally fine that she did, but I'm curious if she had a reason.
@videoracles
@videoracles Год назад
Roddy's reply: Kelly and I are just old-school enough that we hadn't really switched over to lead-belaying with a GriGri yet when we made that video. We both have, since. But a lot of climbers were resistant to it. The thinking went like this: you never bring a GriGri on backcountry missions anyway, so you already have to trust your partner's ability to lead belay with an ATC-style device... and until you get used to the GriGri you feel like you're always short-roping the leader... I know, it was silly. People are resistant to change. Lead belaying with a GriGri is safer and once you get good at it, you can feed out rope just fine. Still, one doesn't usually bring a GriGri on long backcountry missions... those things are heavy... so you probably want to trust your partner's ability to belay the old-fashioned way ;)
@JoBianco
@JoBianco Год назад
@@videoracles Awesome response, thanks for sharing that. It's helpful to hear the history, especially since I came into climbing in the age of the grigri. I don't think it's silly; if I train someone to belay, I start on an atc and then move to a grigri. I think it teaches them to to keep their break hand on the rope and not to fully trust the auto locking fcn.
@johngo-jl3uz
@johngo-jl3uz Год назад
@@videoracles Actually, the new Grigri and one locker can actually be less weight than a guide plate device with the required 2 lockers. Grigri generation one was definitely heavy, the newer ones are a big improvement.
@Govanification
@Govanification 3 года назад
Interesting that you chose to bring enough draws to not need a gear transfer between pitches. I guess that's time efficient but not very weight efficient, but for a 2 pitch cragging route that's fine.
@videoracles
@videoracles 3 года назад
Thanks for the comment, here is Roddy's reply: Actually we brought just enough! No transfer necessary because I cleaned the first pitch, ending up with all the draws! And I brought the cams so that Kelly didn’t have to carry them while leading that spicy first pitch.
@Govanification
@Govanification 3 года назад
@@videoracles That's smart! I guess you knew exactly how many you'd need on each pitch so that worked out well. Thanks for the clarification!
@curvenut
@curvenut 2 года назад
why the anchor was a red and then a blue cordellette @13:14 ?!? ;-)
@videoracles
@videoracles 2 года назад
Wow that’s a good catch! Not sure why but could be a clip from when we prepared for the ropes and cameras for filming! There is a behind the scene image on this page: rockclimb.videoracles.com/videoracles/
@mls01981
@mls01981 2 года назад
I thought that was the color-changing cordelette that Black Diamond offered last April Fools Day. You've got some sharp eyes to catch that!!!
@BoboEverest
@BoboEverest 2 года назад
I noticed you didn't say anything as she climbed. I am annoyed by people who belay me and tell me from the ground what to do and what hold I should use while climbing. I see differently at height and we are differently prepared. Best climbing video I sow. And why you put quickdraw into friend to extend it?
@videoracles
@videoracles 2 года назад
You may be interested in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PhheWAqVHtc.html And here is Roddy's reply: Thanks! I agree, giving beta is often more distracting than helpful. With regard to the quickdraw, I extend my gear placements to reduce rope drag. This is especially important on traversing pitches. If the climb is a straight line, I won't bother.
@BoboEverest
@BoboEverest 2 года назад
@@videoracles Thanks, it make sense. I sow the video link and now I inderstand...
@allaprima
@allaprima 3 года назад
She looks like Lynn Hill
@SuperKillroy1
@SuperKillroy1 2 года назад
High clipper.
@savannahkurtz
@savannahkurtz 3 года назад
Looks like her master anchor biner was unlocked during both belays? :0
@videoracles
@videoracles 3 года назад
You can see Kelly locking all her screw-gate carabiners on the video. Maybe you are used to put them the other way around which made you think they were not locked! Some think that with screw-gate carabiners you should "screw down so you don't screw up." The theory is that vibration/gravity can unscrew the carabiner if it's screwed up. This video implies that it doesn't matter that much: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IK44XwiczFw.html
@xsuperbmentality
@xsuperbmentality Год назад
The last part of the second pitch was so run out haha classic j tree
@moot1111
@moot1111 3 года назад
Nice video showing the whole process. But at about 14 minutes as you tied into safety, you blocked the guide mode device from being able to lock. You were literally just standing there with no safety. Got to be careful with this kind of thing not just for your own safety, but for anyone who uses your instructional videos! See link for what you did wrong :) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-s9np7B1Zao4.html
@videoracles
@videoracles 3 года назад
Hi moot1111, thanks for your comment, we'll make it clearer in the video so folks don’t assume it’s okay to tether this way in any scenario. Here is Roddy's answer: Great comment! I wish we’d addressed that decision rather than leaving it unexplained. At a hanging stance I wouldn’t want to tether this way. In this scenario it makes sense to skip a couple of steps mainly because I won’t fall off the ledge while holding the anchor and tying a clove hitch, but also because even when the plaquette is blocked by the tether carabiner, a sudden fall would not be the catastrophe depicted in SIET's video. Blocking the plaquette in this manner is a lowering technique that Marc Chauvin calls the ‘LSD (Load Strand Direct) lower,’ in his Mountain Guide’s Manual (awesome book) and I use it all the time to lower clients, even in vertical terrain. The LSD lower should be backed up with a third hand, but it does provide a fair amount of friction and a slip from the ledge in less-than-vertical terrain like this would be manageable with a firm hand on the brakes. Thank you for pointing it out!
@rikuswessels2918
@rikuswessels2918 2 года назад
The anchor carabiner gets triloaded at 15:00, should have clipped the quickdraw to the ring instead.
@videoracles
@videoracles 2 года назад
Roddy's reply: Hi Rikus, Good eye! Even a cross-loaded carabiner is plenty strong for one leg of this anchor, so I wouldn't sweat it too much. But, this is something to avoid when possible! My habit is to use the hangers so that other parties rappelling through are not inconvenienced. Also, I came up in an age when many rappel rings were made of very thin aluminum and you definitely needed to clip the bolt hanger! Anyway, thanks for the careful viewing! Best, Roddy
@kiefmanning7394
@kiefmanning7394 2 года назад
Sorry brother. I love your vids. But I can't hear anything
@keithclimate
@keithclimate Год назад
This is a 5.10b??? Sandbagged much?
@freeman792
@freeman792 2 года назад
The installation of your quick through's gates are old style. (I mean 'it's not desirable')
@James-nc2zx
@James-nc2zx 15 дней назад
Why do you gym guys wear helmets face climb no falling rocks at Josh. On El Cap I wear one still hate it.