A battery powered heat gun can’t handle heavy gauge adhesive lined twin wall heat shrink tubing. Learn more about heat shrink tubing here 👉 Unravelling the Mysteries of Heat Shrink Tubing! • Unravelling the Myster...
Use smaller diameter heat shrink tubing, slide in onto the cable _before_ placing the terminal onto the end, _then_ crimp it, and finally shrink the tubing. Good choice to use the adhesive melt heat shrink.
@@chuckbailey6835 I agree. Except that this is Efixx, they _are_ electricians who used to work in the field and run a training centre and give us many videos... that often contain controversial techniques or information that starts a discussion among us more geeky tradesmen, exactly like this one ;-)
@@dirtyaznstyle4156 there is no perfect when it comes to any cable manufacturing terminology. There is Acceptable, Process indicator and a defect. And this is acceptable for pretty much any application. Not the way I would have done it, but it's not wrong.
Gotta love adhesive lined heat shrink tubing! Even when it’s being used in a dry location, it provides extra strength, especially on small wires. And it can’t be beat for watertight splices.
@@athhud I’ve never actually had a situation where I needed a termination to be waterproof, just splices. But I still like to use adhesive lined tubing on terminals, because it provides some additional strain relief. I’ll have to keep that in mind, though, if I ever need waterproof terminations…
@@noturdad5354 It's glue heat shrink (or "adhesive lined") and the original one was 3:1 shrink. You can get 2:1 and 6:1. Rayfast used to make 6:1 glue shrink, I'm not sure if Hellerman do now. Of course, several companies make specialist and one-off pieces for specific purposes with specific shapes, materials and ratios, and some of those combinations look crazy. (A concentric splice Y- or T-junction with smaller breakout for PME earth fly-lead in Rad-hard adhesive lined orange XPLE... looks odd. I've used much odder looking stuff that was a nightmare to thread!)
I mean, cordless and corded tools just have different applications in the first place. Corded ones are more powerful and can run for hours, but battery powered ones are maneuverable and more practical for field use. And if your heat gun can’t shrink an (admittedly grossly oversized) wrap, then you need to charge it better!
If you're ever in a pinch and your heat source is underpowered, heat the outside of the shrink and then direct a little heat towards the inside at something metal for a second or two before going back to heating outside. I usually do this if I don't have my shield/concentrator for my heat gun in my bag. Not an electrician, use at your own risk, but extremely handy for heat sensitive jobs like I did today where I had to heat to a waterproofing boot near a gas tank.
@@timthegunguy47 I made mine using tin snips, a drill, a rivet gun, and the biggest red bull can I could find. id really like an off-shelf concentrator but my heat gun doesn't even have a way to mount one. Wish I could be of more help I know this probably wasn't the answer you were looking for. If I need a temporary heat shield (and FOD isn't a concern) I just make something out of aluminum foil and throw it away when I'm done.
Не по размеру термоусадка, если была бы без клея то вообще бы плохо держалась. Я знаю что большую берут специально подбирая кабель на минимальных значениях что бы она большие токи держала, ну типо когда она максимально садится то имеет максимальную толщину, по этому берут по больше диаметрам и усажывают по сильнее, но главное что бы она после вообще держалась
Hello. I would say that this is not a good crimp of cable lugs. It should have a crimp in the same way that good tools do on smaller cable lugs and not just a round stick that presses. This had never been approved by the car industry or many others!
Wish i had all those tools when I installed my amplifiers and upgraded all electrical in my car. One of my amps alone uses two 00g ground and two 00g positive. Add in a 500farad super cap bank and a high output alt... hundreds of dollars just for the power wire. Pushing 9,000 watt rms. NEED MORE POWER
in 10 yrs you'll discover home audio monitors and vacuum tubes. in 3 yrs you'll discover sound quality and DSP for your car in a few months you'll discover sound deadening foam 😂
i’m always trying to do stuff like this with a pair of needle nose pliers and some electrical tape, having the right tools makes electrical work look so fun
Well of course it will fit better when you don't just swap the tool but also swap the heat shrink to the appropriate size. Heat shrink just shrinks by a defined ratio when heated up, it does not depend on how much heat is applied.
Sometimes you also need the right size of heat shrink tubing. Preferably, color coded since your wire is brown, unless you’re from a place that uses brown for ground.
It was the right size or it would have not shrink enough you can't shrink them indefinitely lol most are 2:1 or 3:1 no amount of heat will make it go smaller it will just burn
@@legros731 this was absolutly not the right size, he could have used 5 sizes lower heat shrink tube and still get a good result. If you need to repair a 1.5mm2 cable you also wouldnt use a heat shrink tube 30 times the size of the wire you want to isolate
Yes a smaller one would have worked bette But is still was the right size or it would have not shrink enough you can't shrink them indefinitely lol most are 2:1 or 3:1 no amount of heat will make it go smaller it will just burn
Eh the color jab is pretty unbased, black is fairly standard for general use, and as for marking conductors it's also common to have one color of wire and use the heatshrink to mark them (red and black heat shrink for dc, red blue and black for 3 phase etc.). The same as how electrical tape is used, black is general purpose, colors are used to mark non color coded cables.
@@Tairone1337 i use colored shrinks like green/yellow or blue if you have high quality heat shrink they won't discolor if you don't let it get too hot.
It is when it’s 120mm sq www.superlecdirect.com/single-core-120mm-tri-rated-cable-black-pvc/?hsa_acc=5149061780&hsa_cam=17724182840&hsa_grp=&hsa_ad=&hsa_src=x&hsa_tgt=&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo6uDpZL3_QIVDLTtCh2jYQSJEAQYASABEgKjd_D_BwE
Doing this to battery cable connections in the salt belt, I solder, and then pack around the connector with anti-oxidation paste. THEN heat shrink. Only way to keep out the corrosion for life.
Why use a hot-glue heat shrink on the connector lug. When using a connector lug intended for soldering? The inspection hole is designed to verify that it is completely filled with solder. In this configuration, it will be an absorption point for water that will erode the copper cable from within. So it is a crappy produced connector lug. Do it again and do it right. And use the correct lug this time, or solder it as it is intended...
@@ryanjones7921 Crimp first. Then heat the lug to the solder melting point. Then add soldering wire thru the Hole until solder is to be seen at the cable entering point. Then maybe the heat crimping insulation (but that is not really necessary as the water and air/oxigen will never reach the copper as it is covered with solder).
I’ve been crimping lugs all the way upto 10x the size of that for 23 years and they’ve always had the hole in, we do use hex dies rather than the indent he’s using here
@@artphilips Я зачищаю кабель от изоляции, расплетаю свитые "косички" если резина приваренная к жилам - травлю химически (соль, лимонка, перекись; ТБ - при нагреве выделяется хлор - глаза, белые хим. ожоги на коже от горячего раствора) так чтоб капиллярным эффектом раствор не затянуло в кабель, промываю, фиксирую наконечник в тисках, вставляю кабель, добиваю пустое пространство жилами пока запихиваются, запаиваю наконечник горелкой (припой +флюс +промывка), полирую если канифоль осталась, 4 опрессовки под 6-гранник; наконечники со стороны парогенератора пропитываю нарезанную стеклоткань эпоксидной смолой обматываю, потом затягиваю бондаж из стеклотканной изоленты "для обмоток трансформаторов" поверх изолента (при термическом воздействии каменеет), сверху термоусадка (при затягивании может порваться ключами(на 4 гайки с шайбами (поверхности (наконечники, шайбы, гайки) чистятся от окислов от термовоздействия чтоб снизить переходное сопротивление), чтоб не подтягивать раз в неделю, а то гайки приварятся +после затяжки сверху покрываю гайки графитовой смазкой для легкого откручивания)) парогенератор 3Ф по 400А. ps. подрядчики тяп ляп и готово(зачистили, опрессовали, заизолировали, прикрутили перемычку в щитовой) в результате при обнаружении ухудшения контакта в щитовой ("соседи" по ТП взяли в привычку без предупреждения нагрузку как 3 парогенератора в ремонт выводить) сообщил мастеру чтоб переопрессовали, пока они там собирались в течении недели - пришлось тушить щитовую. А моей опрессовке больше 3 лет во влажных условиях при температуре примерно 120град Цельсия. Еще до пенсии(10-15 лет) наверно хватит наконечники стачивать при зачистке(наконечники пришлось по сечению больше брать, стандартные только год держались (от условий эксплуатации)).
Standard CK insulation stripper, it comes with 3 clip-in hooks for working on different diameter cable, and you can adjust the blade depth by turning a know on the end. ("#Oh... A wizard's staff has a knob on the end...#")
Yes, setting it to high is certainly helpful. A watt is a watt though, and 2 1500 watt guns put out the same amount of heat. The larger one just spreads the heat thinner.
Just did a bunch today at work after a fire last night. Used crimp lugs for the #2/0 wires, but rather than shrinking the lugs, I just bolted them together and put connection condoms over the ends and zip tied in place
