this is the best video I've seen for making a flash of the Sonoff devices. Thank you so much DrZzs e Vicious Computers!!! Thanks to the maybe guides I managed to restore a Sonoff 4CH Pro that I was Brikked. This process is still 'much easier than all the others. As soon as I get there, I will also try the Sonoff 4Ch Pro R2! Continue in this way DrZzs thanks to your guides I'm also taking big steps with Home Assistant
Look into the new Tasmota on-chip timer functions, especially with the 4CH PRO. It makes it an attractive programmable irrigation controller if you can program those timers from HA. I put together a node-red flow to read and set the timers but couldn't figure out how to do it in Home Assistant. Thanks for the videos, they have been influential on my projects!
This is beautiful, even if the floating angled head is a little creepy. I love it though. FWIW - if you're here because this information doesn't work, the switch contacts might be dirty. Toggle it back and forth a dozen or so times, the repeat friction can help clean contacts.
GREAT VIDEO! - I was looking for a good explanation of the 4 channel sonoff pro inching, interlock etc. This is the best so far. I'm excited to see your next video about the RF Bridge! Seems like a great inexpensive way to do motion and door sensors. CAN"T WAIT!
Great and informative video as always. I guess for me, as a personal preference, I use the source code and Arduino IDE to flash mine because I can preconfigure everything and have it running straight away. Keep up the great work.
still need to give it a good trial run. Tasmota added a "rules" function now too. My guess is it won't be quite as customizable as ESPeasy rules, but the differences are become less and less between the two i think.
Hey Dr... Great channel. On the use of a terminal (Termite) to change your parameters, this is by far the quickest way to configure. Not because of the just the use of the terminal program, but... you got to try the "Backlog" command. This allows you to configure the unit with 1 command....yep, all the parameters in command. Its described on the Tasmota Commands Wiki. Here is an example.... Backlog SSID1 ; Password1 ; MqttHost Hassio; MqttUser 299MQTT; MqttPassword ; GPIO14 09; Hostname sonoff_kitchen_main; MqttClient sonoff_kitchen_main; Topic sonoff_kitchen_main; FriendlyName1 Sonoff Kitchen Main Just replace the SSID and passwords with yours. Anyway keep up the good work. Loving it
I used a NodeMCU esp8266 inside of a power strip with 5 relays. Powered by a cell phone charger(inside the power strip). Flashed it with tasmota and it is awesome.
I believe a key point of your presentation was the statement regarding adding an external PS kind of makes the whole Sonoff thing less useful. I too find that because there are such powerful software options available, and countless devices to add to our systems, it is easy to inadvertently push the technology past the point it serves us. But seeing as how most of us are doing this for fun more than utility, I guess pushing the limits is what we're gonna do. If I didn't fail half the time, I'd probably find a different hobby....
In Home Assistant, there is something called the entity_registry.yaml (or something like that -its in the same directory as the other yaml files). All newly discovered devices are populated in there, and associated with a unique ID automatically. You can edit it and change the device name, and even delete the device from there, but I don't think you can change the unique ID. I think they added this feature from version 0.64. Btw, I literally just got my 4ch pro last night so this video is PERFECT timing. Can’t wait to get home to tamsmotize it. Will post a video of a project I am working on using this on automated shutters. I am also building a homemade garage door opener so I may use the 4ch to power this. You should call yourself the Tasmotian devil. Lol
Is the sonoff showing in the frontend? If the device is visible in the front end, it should exist in the either the config.yaml or entity_registry.yaml file or both, that is.....unless the HA developers made a change that I don't know about. Also, although my device discoveries have been pretty instantaneous (pretty much right after the device has powered up), the discovery can take some time.
Hi Justin, you are the boss !! another amazing video, it's so easy to learn and understand because put it in a easy way ! every time I see your videos I just want go home and start making automations:) pls keep doing these videos because they are the best in youtube ! I'm really looking forward to see your next video about flashing Sonoff RF because I already did it but I couldn't link the mqtt topics on in Hassio ! I'm sure you'll surprise me :)
Wow, Thanks! I'll keep making them! I'm still working on figuring out the MQTT payload with the RF. I'm sure there's a way. If nothing else I know there's a different firmware (not tasmota) that sends the payload with less info that makes it easier to use with HA. But I'm still working on making tasmota work. Thanks for the support!
Ok great! I was afraid because your Live streams vanished from channel:( Anyway I'm glad to know that you also are facing some issues to link the payload topic of RF to HA.. I gave up after 2 weeks.. and now I have a lot of useless RF sensors :).. hopefully you'll find out a solution (cross fingers) Btw I just finished my irrigation progect with a Sonoff 4ch pro R2 and I followed this video tutorial for the hardware part : it's italian but guy don't talk too much :) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_ymyczBpmec.html
I had to take the live streams down because I accidentally had some private info that could have opened me up to hackers. I'll be more careful next time :) I'm thinking I'll do another live stream this weekend. That's a cool setup in that video. I wish my sprinkler closet looked have that clean!
With 4 relays and 4 buttons you'll be running pretty low on available GPIO pins. You could still use Rx and Tx. You may have trouble if whatever you put on those pins is grounded when the board restarts. Hope that helps.
Once you have the board flashed, and have accessed the web-interface, I would expect that when you press one of the buttons on the the unit that the relay would click, or that the blue Toggle 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 buttons would activate the relays. I'm finding that neither happens. Is that due to the limited power being supplied by the FTDI connector from the USB cable?
Love your videos, keep up the amazing work 😊. Since according to your videos you are using hassio install, are you experiencing the need to reboot the raspberry pi on a daily basis, since it hangs?
Yes, I'm still investigating this issue , might be due to some issues with Asus router. The thing is, I use in parallel Smartthings hub, which I don't have any issues with. Anyhow thx for the input, I will investigate this further, and again great work you are doing on this channel :-)
I feel like I've asked this before, on a live stream, but could I use a Sonoff 16a POW to switch a 1hp water pump without blowing the Sonoff? My country is one of those quirky ones with 240v power.
I do seem to remember that question. Seems like there was an issue with the initial current requirement to start a motor and that a normal relay wasn't the best suited for that job. Let me ask my engineer buddy and get back to you.
You can deal with the initial current draw via some capacitors. Take a look at some video where people are powering AC units off of batteries. This may give you some ideas ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yjK1Gi_u6ss.html
If you use optocoupled relays avoid to exede the maximun output of the GPIO only mathers the power given by the sonoff power supply, I think the sonoff can power the relay, only needs to amplify the current output of the gpio with a transistor better an optocopler.
Javier Enrique Traid mind you that the optocoupler relays are often inverted needing a low to activate them. Also the common 5 volt relays use about 65 mA. Having a bc547 to drive them requires very little current as well as they have an hfe well over 100
Very true, but I was only mentioning the transistor type as an example. Non-inverting transistor driven relay modules also come complete for a few dimes. My point was that the sonoff pin has no problem driving such a module
Honestly, probably not that useful if you are familiar with Tasmota options, like Pulsetime, or able to do automations that can switch one relay off when the other is on. It's kind of a funny combo of functions. I think iTead tried to make the device for less experienced users but with extra more advanced options. It seems to me you need to be a bit of an advanced user to need or understand those options. The RF bit might be useful for some folks too. I'm still not sure where I'm actually going to use mine. Maybe for appliances in the kitchen...
Trying to flash a 4CH with esphome firmware but keep getting "ESP Chip Auto-Detection failed: Failed to connect to Espressif device: Timed out waiting for packet header ". Tried just about anything with no solution. Any suggestions?
nice video DRZzs this is what i was looking at but now i have a problem if I tasmotized my sonoff 4ch pro how can i configure my RF remote with it without having a RF bridge ? is there is any function in tasmota to enable rf control ?
Sonoff S31 video might be a good one. I flashed two of them this weekend and they are great. I'm using them for notifications on the washer and dryer. So I can see if they are running, how long they have been running for, is the dryer door left open, how long it was left open, etc. I didn't solder to them to flash I lined up my female wires in piece of header and taped them to the board for flashing. Google for "kcs garage sonoff s31 teardown", I couldn't get the link to paste.
Yeah I couldn't pass up the S31 just being a plugin, all about wiring and soldering but these were just cool and didn't block the other plug. I think they used a new power measurement chip as well.
Do you have a video with Sonoff POW R2 power module connect to the Hassio? Beside turn on and off switch it also provider the power consumption of the line connected to it. I plan to move all to Hassio using MQTT because some of my sonoff modules lost connection for no reason and unable to pairing back again.
Hi, I would like to know if there is any way to connect four physical switches to a 4 switch sonoff to be able to control them. Sorry for my English, I'm Spanish, congratulations for your tutorials, I'm learning a lot of home automation and a lot of English.
Hi! There are no extra pins, but you could use the contact points of the buttons that are on the board already and just solder wires onto those contacts and run the wires to switches. So, yes. It is possible. Hope that helps.
You're welcome. They're great devices, only problem I have with them is I can't connect a physical button to every relay. In case my Openhab (or future Home Assistant :p ) refuses to work, I like to operate my appliances with a physical switch.
ya, I didn't try adding extra buttons. I'd guess all you can do is solder to the contacts for the existing buttons. If you need a lot of relays in one place it is a good little device. The non-Pro is much cheaper than buying 4 Sonoff Basics.
Yeah, I tried soldering to the contacts. Let's say it was dodgy at best. Sometimes a button press (or wire contact in my test setup) would not turn on the relay, other times a press would activate 2 relays. I think I'll be using the 4ch for mood lighting I use in scenes and I'll be sticking to Sonoff basics for all my main lighting. Another thing I'll use the 4ch for is for switching power outlets. Also, I don't think it's that much cheaper, the 4 CH R2 costs 19.99 $ on Banggood and a basic is 5.19 $. You will need the backplate for DIN rail mounting for the basic if you want to go that route though. If you want a physical button connection for your lighting I do think a basic is the way to go though.
That's a good use of the 4 ch. iTead usually has the best prices on their own devices. www.itead.cc/smart-home/sonoff-4ch.html I'm with you, I'll keep using the Zzonoff for my lights. Solder the mains wires, add a fuse, and use the led touch module. Just installed a couple more yesterday for the garage. Love'em!
Is there a way to connect 4 buttons (wall switches) to the 4 buttons on the Sonoff? I am thinking to use this to control the window blinds, each window has 2 blinds, each with up and down button. I think I can connect these to the sonoff, but I need to keep the buttons too.
you'd have to solder wires to the poles of the existing switches. There aren't enough gpio pins to run new switches (like we do with the sonoff basic). But soldering directly to the poles of the existing switches should give you the functionality you're looking for.
Could I use a sonoff 4CH (Pro?) (R2?) to control the power to individual external harddrives? (Yes I know you should just leave them running non-stop). These harddrives are connected to my network, and are in a remote location. Crawling around to disconnect them is not fun. I know I could connect each harddrive via a Sonoff Basic, so the real Qs are, 1. is it even possible to control 4 units and 2. does it provide some advantage to do so, (vs the Basics). I'm hoping that using the 4CH Pro R2 (or other) would reduce the clutter of wires. But I don't understand the "ratings" of the power for the 4CH units. I see there is separate power to run the board, and then 4 other sets. I don't see how there is an "input" and and "output", as you can see in the Basics. Finally, there is the Q of how to deal with the physical power cords to the harddrives. Do I cut the existing HD pwr-cords and splice them into the Sonoff (even the Basic) OR should I add some more clutter and only splice in separate extension cords for each? Thanks for any ideas!
That's an interesting use for it. You would be able to use the 4ch Pro R2. The reason is, I assume your hard drives run on 12v. So each one has a power supply that plugs into the wall. A sonoff Basic or the non-Pro 4ch are made to switch 120v (or 240v). They won't work if you try to cut the power cord for the hard drives and put them in-line there. A 4ch Pro R2 on the other hand can be powered by 12v. But I actually think the best solution would probably be 4 Sonoff SV's. Then you can just cut the cord for each hard drive and use those wires to connect to the input and output of the Sonoff SV. Simplest solution I think. The SV's don't come with a plastic case so you'll have to come up with that yourself somehow. drzzs.com/Sonoff_SVx3 drzzs.com/Sonoff_SV Hope that helps!
+@@DrZzs Thanks very much for the insights. I'm a little nervous about cutting the OEM power cords to my hard drives, but I might do it. Now I'm going to think thru a pegboard mounted solution, with 2 ft extension cords purchased on ebay (or elsewhere). Thanks for the great series and all the great info you provide. (I just wish it was a little easier to flash tazmodo, but I suppose after I do it 2-3 times, it will then seem easy ;-) ). Do you know if downloading shows with youtube-dl counts as a full viewing to your status? ;-)
@@DrZzs Thanks very much for the feedback. Sorry I haven't replied, but got tied up with the Chrismas holidays : -) ... Can I flash the SV model to have Tasmota, and MQTT access? Thanks!!! (FYI, your posts haven't been coming up in my feed, are you on Christmas break too ? (Just meant as a data point on analyzing the YT Algo ;-) ). ). (Just looked at your main page, wow, I've got some good viewing ahead!) .
i doubt it, 🤔 i've ordered one, will find out soon. I'll get one of the deeper boxes, but it may just be the height/width that wont fit, not the depth of the box.
ya, I concur with M!sh. It seems too tall to fit in a standard junction box. I can try it when I get back home, but I don't expect it'll fit. There's a lot of wasted space on the board. Would be awesome to have a 4 gang Zzonoff though!
thanks for explaining inching&SL. I got a valve closing motor device(similar to dome device but for $15) it takes 12vdc but the power has to reserved to activate to open the water/gas valve. It seems i can use 2 relays to achieve opening and closing valve from hassio. . I got 4 b1 and 3C T1 and was strrugling finding gpio 0 on the new T1 . After flashing it the T1's would not retain the settings - i will try flashing it with the generic github bin file and see if that works. the one i compiled was for generic 8285. Thank you.
I got your email too. I'm going to do the T1 3c soon. Thanks for showing me where gpio-0 is. I'm not sure about the problem retaining the wifi settings. That's really strange. Anyone else having that problem?
i gave up on the T1 3C for now but i will try the default .bin file upload and see if that sticks. I also got the new B1s, 4 of them all flashed with tasmota. please get the lifx one and give it a try. now that i was able to compare B1 ($20)and lifx($38), - lifx is still much -dont want to say bright but seems more prominent colors and fillup the room better than B1. when they go on sale on amzn please give it a try. next- i am going to try all yours & bens' led projects. thanks
Hi, thank you for all your tutorials. Now I have problem with Sonoff 4ch pro r2. I have tasmota 6.2.1. After reboot sonoff still relay set ON. Can you help me with this? Thank you...
It could be a few things and hard for me to know exactly. Try setting "retain: false" in the HA entry, and "powerretain 1" and "switchretain 1" in Tasmota. Hope that helps.
Can you use the RF functions with custom firmware on the Sonoff 4ch pro R2? I want to flash it with esp home. But I need to control it with an RF remote.
try using Tasmota 5.14 instead of 6.1. I've heard some folks are having issues with basic r2's and tasmota 6.1 github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/releases/tag/v5.14.0
Hello again quick question about the FTDI, i checked with a multimeter and the tx and rx pins of the FTDI are sending out 5v even when the FTDI is set for 3.3v, same case with Arduino nano v3, is this normal? I tried using a logic level shifter but even though i can flash successfully I wasn’t able to read anything on termite with the logic level shifter attached. Can you tell me if its ok for tx rx pins to be 5v, i had ten sonoff basics, but flashing successfully is hit n miss and i think ive ruined 3 of them already with two more left to flash
that seems bad. I'll measure the voltage output of my ftdi. I'd be surprised if it's 5v. I haven't experienced it myself but have heard that flashing with 5v output is very bad for the esp chip.
DrZzs thanks for the reply, and also for all the amazing easy to understand and well made tutorials, please do check the voltage on the TX and Rx pins and get back to me, I'm Hella confused lol
sorry, I forgot to do this last night. I'll try and remember tonight. I'm planning on doing a live stream on Sunday so maybe someone will remind me to do it then if I forget again.
thanks for the reminder! Sorry I forgot. I just measured and my ftdi definitely outputs 3.3v If yours doesn't then either there's a switch or jumper that needs to be changed or you got a broken one. mine has a jumper that needs to be changed to switch between 5v and 3v. Maybe yours does too. Bummer man. Hope your sonoffs aren't ruined.
I would like to control the Sonoff 4CH Pro R2 using a RF 433MHZ modulo with a Arduino. Does anyone know how to? Could you make a video about it? Thanks.
hey drzzs i used this method to flash my sonoff 4ch r2 with no problems even got it setup in sonweb i was wondering is there a way to rename in hassio it is listed as (sonoff sonoff2 and 3 and 4 ) thanks the videos are great also planning to build a house in the next year any advice for planning ahead.thks
With the Auto-discover I'm not sure how to rename them. Maybe change the friendly name in SonWeb. Then restart HA. Maybe that'll do it. I haven't tried it and my VPN is not cooperating so I can't connect and check, but I believe there's a file called "entity registry" or something. You may find the "discovered" entities there.
For relay module like this amzn.to/2DS6jAU, which has some peripheral components, is it still true that a Esp8266 pin cannot provide sufficient current to drive it? I guess since there are some transistors working as a gate, it actually drains very little current from the ESP8266 pin and provides enough power to the relay. That's the reason why they need a 5V input.
hmm. so you have Tasmota on the D1mini. Did you use sonoff.bin or did you compile your own .bin? Next question is what Tasmota version are you using? How are you flashing? Arduino IDE? FlashEZ? Can you see anything with the Arduino Serial monitor or Termite? Finally, are you seeing any lights on the D1mini?
And then I stumbled upon this in the HA MQTT Discovery documentation (/docs/mqtt/discovery/): " empty payload will cause a previously discovered device to be deleted."
Can ESPeasy flash Tasmota on a D1mini too ? I've been trying my nuts of all week to flash it with the Arduino IDE. The flashing seems to work, but my D1mini clone doesn't connect to the Wifi. I also put the WIFI_MANAGER line in tasmota, but it doesn't seem to broadcast any wifi as well.
That's a great question. I don't know, but it might. I'll have to try it and let you know. I know there was a problem with Tasmota 5.13 and wifi connections. I just flashed a couple things with 5.14 and haven't had that problem. Probably the biggest difference with the D1 mini over the Sonoff is that the D1 mini has 4m memory and the sonoff only has 1m. That shouldn't limit using the .bin files from github though. I'll try it when I get a chance in the next few days. If you get to it before me let me know how it goes.
Well, the flashing itself works like a dream. For testing I flashed the sonoff-NL.bin file to the D1 mini, since I'm Dutch. But I can't figure out how to get the D1 to broadcast wifi to log into it. I'm beginning to think that the wifi is broken on the D1.
Well shoot me down !! Not sure what happened, but it works !!! But it is quite a mystery. I'll tell you what happened. I tried dozens of times to flash the old fashioned way with the Arduion IDE and such. Filled in my router info, MQTT broker etc. Flashing went well but no connection to wifi or whatsoever. Also tried to activate the WIFI_MANAGER function in Tasmota, also with no luck. Tried the ESPeasy method with the standard sonoff_NL.bin file from the Tasmota github page, again flashing worked but never a connection to my WIFI. Looked online to see wich connection is GPIO 0 , so I could "press" it four times like in your video. Again it seemed like nothing happened. Then fired up my IP scanner, only to find out it had connected with the IP adress I gave it in the first place while flashing with Arduino IDE !!!!! I could log in tasmota and all my info was there, ip adress, MQTT broker, everything. I noticed there is no D1mini option anymore in the config, but the 'GENERIC' option shows all the buttons and such.
go figure! Sounds like the Gremlins were having some fun with you ;P I've certainly had some flaky wifi connections sometimes. Just last night I was going crazy trying to figure out why the RF Bridge sensors weren't working and it turned out it was just struggling to connect to my network. That happens too much. I'm going to try a dedicated router just for my HA devices, but it also makes me want to use wired connections whenever possible. Too much dependance on Wifi seems to be a problem. Glad it worked for you eventually!
I was thinking the same thing, although I just mounted two high power accesspoints in the house wich work absolutely great. Only thing left to do is configure pin D3 as a switch, and get it in HA to control the bedroom light sonoff from the bed. Do you know how to set that up ? So, bedroom light is controlled by a sonoff basic with a momentary pushbutton and in HA, so this D1 should become a switch in HA, and toggle that sonoff basic.
DrZzs I need to operate the sonoff on three way with a standard switch. When the light switches on / off the sonoff app status should be correspond. Is there any way to do this? I'm using sonoff with the original firmware with e link. thank you so much
I would expect it can be added to RX or TX. You may need to disable serial logging so there aren't conflicting signals on those pins. I'm pretty sure Rx and Tx are the only pins available to use on the 4ch since there are already 8 pins being used for the relays and buttons. I've used Rx for DHT temp sensors on other Sonoff devices, so it should work.
Maybe I've seen just awful wiring jobs, but I've seen some terrible wiring on the forums in other countries and people act like it is normal? I still stick to the US wiring with neutrals in every switch box though.
See travis. This is what I have to put up with ;P I'll have you know I only tripped the breaker once yesterday installing a sonoff for my garage lights. And no one but me even noticed the sparks!
DrZzs excellent news, I'm on holiday at the moment do more to play with when I get home. Love the format of your videos, great work and I'm always looking forward to the next post. BTW now moving from esp easy to Tasmota, I'm sold.
sweet! well watch for the video on SonWeb. You can manage all those new Tasmotized Zzonoff's in one place! I should have it done and posted later today.
I been looking at your video, seen it a few times, Im trying to find a useful application for the 4 channel SonOff. Looking forward to your RF bRidge video.. that I am interested specially if I can use the RF signal to start my car..
oooh, so you currently have a remote start for your car? So far, what I've learned is that some RF devices have changing codes to keep people from stealing the code and opening your garage or starting your car. For those devices it may not be possible to program the RF bridge to learn the code. It still might be possible. I'm not an expert on RF by a long shot. There still might be a way. I just want to manage expectations a little. If there is a way to remote start your car with the RF bridge we'll figure it out!
I have faith in you, some how or another you get it to work, It might not be the best or easiest way, but it work, which to me is the goal... BTW do you know if there is a ESPeazy for a Mac? or a way to flash the sonoff?
Mac has trouble with the ftdi (or other) serial/usb adapters. I've had it work a few times but not work most of the time. There's steps you can try that I don't remember; deleting some drivers and installing others. It was a pain, and then didn't last... You can try googling. I've just gone to Win10 for all my flashing. Do you have a windows computer you can use for flashing?
DrZzs no No I don’t have one at home. Ill figure something out. BTW. I m doing my Christmas light. Next month. Im getting the lights from Amazon and want to give you credit. Can you send me the link please. Tx
Awesome! You'll love the lights. I need to update the sketch. I've got some more lights to put up myself this summer. Here's a link: amzn.to/2L80mAN That's for 10 strings of 50 leds each. If you don't need that many there are other sellers. amzn.to/2L9Ejt9 Just make sure they are ws2811 and I'd recommend 12v. I used 5v cuz they were cheaper. amzn.to/2sqHftY You could do that too. As long as you use one of those links to get to amazon, it won't matter what you buy after that, I'll get a small %. Thanks!
I've been using the discover method for some time now. If someone knows how to get rid of unavailable devices in HA that would be great, to much testing (maybe time for dev system). Having a WAF issue, switches go unavailable then on and off in HA, causing automation to trigger. Lights turning on and shutting off for no reason. tried to use retain commands but it just seemed to make it worse. Welcome your thoughts? and as always your video's awesome.
no luck. failed with such messages on different adapters. looks like my board dont ward to go into flash mode trying to connect flush start setting serial port timeouts to 1 ms setting serial port timeouts to 1000 ms flush complete espcomm_send_command: sending command header espcomm_send_command: sending command payload read 0, requested 1 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CSC2hW51ikI.html
First, thank you for posting a video of what you're doing. That is really really helpful! It looks like you've got the Pro non-R2 correct? It looks like you've connected the pins differently than I would expect. Maybe it's because you're using the arduino to flash. Comparing your connections to the images from the Tasmota page, it looks like you don't have a jumper on Tx at all. www.dropbox.com/s/pklc62sg9ek184z/Screenshot%202018-05-30%2016.19.38.png?dl=0 vs github.com/arendst/arendst.github.io/raw/master/media/4chpro_gpio0.JPG One other thing. I've always just used the one adapter so I'm not too familiar with using an Arduino to flash, but I read somewhere that when using an arduino you might need to swap the Rx/Tx so it would go Rx-Rx Tx-Tx. Hope that helps.
hi, thank you for your chanell. i have this sonoff for several month already and gived up already. its version 1.1 i have tried several configuration before posting video. i used arduino uno and usb serial adapter ch340g. i tried to connect all wires to left connector headers. same result. i used arduino, vs code. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OhQdcwVxe_I.html
dang. I wish I could help you somehow. Those are the only ideas I have right now. Not sure why it wouldn't work. Somehow it just seems it isn't getting into programming mode or the serial pins aren't connecting to the computer for some reason. Sorry I don't know what to try next.
