Tip for that SmallRig monitor arm - Remove the rubber rings around the balls (never thought I'd say THAT in a RU-vid comment...) Those rings cause inconsistent grip pressure based on the angle of the arm. Removing it will give you a smooth metal ball inside a smooth round gripper and pressure will be the same no matter how the arm is angled. Secondly, in the default design of that arm the tension is basically either on or off. There isn't much (if any) variability to the tension from the tightening knob/bolt assembly. It's either locked solid or totally loose. So what I did is unscrew the wingnut/knob, add two spring washers and a regular washer, then put it back together. The spring washers make it so the tension increases gradually. Now, I can loosen the knob about one eighth of a turn, the monitor doesn't fall, I can reposition the monitor, then tighten again. Depending on the monitor's weight you may be able to just leave it in this almost-tight state and it will hold its position. I used two spring washers because it has room for two and two is better than one. The spring washers I used have sharp points which can scratch and grind out the metal over time, so the regular washer is used as a buffer to prevent the spring washer touching the arm housing. There already should be a couple of washers in there including a bearing. I can't remember the exact order of washers but you'll figure it out. A bit hard to explain in writing.
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Love to see black creators making content like this. Keep it up! 🎉
@@cammackey I had one on a rental swap for a month , and everytime I took it out, I was a bit sad, image is A1, but i need at least a couple hands on deck
at the very least they should come out with something small you could put in the place of the handle that has xlrs and 3.5mm ports. that way Sony can make more money and filmmakers like us can get the features we want.
Since you asked, I think Ultralight monitor arms are the best by far. See them on commercial sets all the time. So versatile and carry a lot of weight. Beats Noga for sure
Great video! I prefer heavy rig when I'm doing handheld stuff so usually put a crap ton of stuff just to make it heavy😂 Life with a mirrorless camera and not a cinema camera... Keep up the good work man!
Nice man! If you're recording with wireless lav and have the receiver on your rig AND your ninja, you can record audio into the Ninja with the 3.5mm jack input. That way your audio is already on your video file 👌🏼👌🏼😱
@@KofiYeboah haha yeah i see loads of people hating the handle for having both xlrs and it is kinda annoying when the fs5 has one perfectly situated on the body at the back but if using a Ninja it's no dramas. What fell out of what?
Kofi - How do you like the stability of the hand-held footage when recording onto the Atomos? I've been using an A7sIII and record onto the Ninja V and use active stablization for hand-held. I'm very happy with the results. I'm considering upgrading to the FX6 for the internal ND (mainly) but I'd lose the active stabilization. Since I record on a Ninja, I wouldn't be able to use the gyro stabilization with Catalyst Browse. I am just trying to get a better understanding of the hand-held quality without stabilization before I make the big purchase. Thank you!
So admittedly , I gotta use a heavy rig to keep my handheld stable , but I benefit from being a pretty big guy ( I’m about 6”1 is and 290 😅 so for ME the rig weight doesn’t bother me as much as most people , but you’ll definitely have to rig it out
I have a question regarding the atomos ninja with the ProRes. I kind of understand that you can utilize the 16bit color, however I’m having a hard grasp of when to use it.
My dream set up would be the fx6 with Sony FE C 16-35mm lens on the rs3 pro with the title ring. Am I out of my mind to think I can balance that much weight (using counter weights) on that rig? And buy the way, I want that top handle to stay on there : ). Great job as always.
Hey Kofi, I am really enjoying your video! Good job! I just ordered my fx6 and I was asking myself if the 70mm nato rail will also fit on the top plates 1/4" threats that are "first in line" or if I need a longer NR. Btw. Have you ever thought about recording audio in your Atomos to get rid of the top handle discussion? Regards, Peet
How long have you been using the Small HD Tripod (SmallRig AD-01) and has it been able to handle all the weight of your rig during that time? have you considered other tripods before going with this one?
Hey man, how is the smallrig tripod you mentioned in the video? I am considering to get one but I heard there's no horizontal friction on the fluid head, is that ture?
When do you feel like you "need to" should prores raw? I've been considering getting a Ninja V(+) to shoot prores raw as well, mainly because I'd like better control over the de-noising of the image. But I also get the sense that IF I properly expose my image and have a white balance that is close to correct, I don't benefit that much from shooting prores raw. The file sizes are also intimidating...
Honestly there’s not a gigantic difference but a tad more flexibility. And when I wanna be fancy it helps , also I do like using it on Davinci slot it’s easy to Work with !
The handheld and studio are very similar where it’s not hard to change over snd the b roll and gimbal ones are easy to cross over , but other than that if prep for like 6-7 minutes to move over , unfortunately the gimbals for the fx6’s aren’t made to make it ewsy
Don’t you have color cast problem (blue/yellow tiint) when using mattebix with variable nd (pollarizer filter) with fx6 electronic nd? My basecamp pollar pro vnd is usless when i turn nd on my fx6 which is pain in the ass :-((( Please let me know if tilta nd are any better?
