Sony PVM-A250 Professional OLED monitor, unfixable by design. 

Hi, Colin. The best thing to do would be to try and heat up the all the BGAs with a hot air gun on the Main AV logic board and see if the Monitor turns on. If it does then one of the BGAs might need re-balling or replacing. Also try to locate the 3.3v because there may be a problem in the emmc(s) chips. The TPS54040 maybe held back from switch on. I can see that the green indicator lights up before the red flashing led which indicates a fault with unit. Normally, dead OLED panels will not allow the unit to power on green for even a second. This Monitor also could have software/firmware trouble. Lastly, Test the control switches on the front panel (vol, menu, etc) that can easily short/break and drag the unit down. Good Luck...

I have replaced a handfull of the panels(OLED + board), because of this error. No one want to pay for this replacement any more, because of the costs. I have a PVM-A170(17” version) that I use for service, it was repaired by replacing the OLED panel. Thank you for the interesting videos, always looking forward for friday afternoon😃.

How sad. Many years ago i used to use a sony pvm2730 as a tv in my living room. It was very repairable and there was an excellent, and inexpensive, service manual.

Another engaging video - I vote replace ♥😊

Wow! Sony really don't want anyone trying to fix their stuff these days. Whereas years ago Sony made their Pro gear very easy to service, shame they've u-turned on that.

Yes, replace the chip Colin - worth a go

Replace the reg if you can - you've already got into it so far. There's every chance like you say that the reg is being commanded into disable elsewhere. The FPGA is obviously working / processing (the FPGA light comes on at "boot" then goes off in "OK", and you've observed a 'normal' level of heat) - whilst some area of the set is in fault condition, the FPGA will have routines in place to deal with "fault" conditions, so it's likely processing fine. Re the -6VDC supply not being produced - an easier / more crude method would be to generate a -6VDC supply relative to ground and inject it (through some current limiting). Suggest starting with a couple of CR2032 in series, with the positive side of the battery to chassis of the display, thus giving your -6VDC to inject on the "output" pin on the voltage regulator! I noticed the repair for the LED being lit in this case is to "replace the G2" board... Which is the G2 board? Is that the main OLED controller board or the PSU?

I've had a lot of mental problems from past stress, sorry if i missed your excellent videos. Colin I have to say you don't give up easy :-D I was wondering if those flat brown capacitors near the step up/step down regulators have gone short or low resistance. Laptops are a pain with capacitors going short. Maybe put your meter in low resistance mode and put your probes across each flat capacitor just in case. I know i'm saying the obvious. P.s im not mad lol.

I think you should replace the regulator, just in case....

My guess is that the controller board is OK but the OLED panel is bad - the symptoms you are seeing are the result of the controller board detecting some anomaly during startup and shutting down. Although not officially supported (because the panel calibration data is stored in the controller board at the factory) you can swap over the controller boards between panels and swapping the board onto a good panel is an effective way of telling if the controller board is good. Obviously a "Frankenstein" unit assembled from a good panel from one unit and a good controller board from another won't meet the specs for the monitor because of the mismatched calibration data in the control board, but IMO it still looks fine.

Colin, on the low voltage dc-dc converters (tps54226) you should have checked the SW pins, these are the 1.2v switched outputs ( they go to the big coil next to the ic) The 5.5v is probably just some reference voltage. There could also be a shorted ceramic cap somewhere around the stabilisers, these caps like to short. Could be a lot of things, and in the end it’s probably the bga that’s at fault 👎

Hi Colin if the cost of the repair exceeds the replacement price then it's a no go. If the cost of the repairs is not the motivation to repair and have a functioning device then go for it. I believe once you answer that question then you can proceed. Cheers

Does it try a fan test first? Some Panasonic camcorders will not power up if fan rotation test fails, bit of a long shot I know! Great video by the way.

Yes ,replace the regulator chip.

yes try to replace it.

Do replace that IC please. It cannot be very expensive to obtain.

If it’s not expensive, then replace the regulator! I would!

DEFINITELY replace that chip!

Must be a Professional OLED. How do you see that? Because he's not completely covered in glue.

you have to disconnect the panel from the board and test again some times the backlight comes on thats in dicates fault with the panel driver boards somes times ceramic caps short out you have to test drivers boards for shorts to find the shorted cap

I dare you to replace the regulator!

Sometimes you get too deep into something and are willing to try anything at that point. LOL.

It’s not hard to replace, you use a hot air station which is very easy if you know how. Why don’t you just call yourself a man who likes to tinker with stuff ? Because this is what I mean you do a lot of guess work like you said I think these are regulators? Well if know your electronics you would know if they are by using maths to work a lot of stuff out. Electronics is maths and by using this is how we work out. Also where is scope ? The main tool that should be on the job. That’s how you see signals and waveforms. I do hope you get it going but I’m sorry you know nothing about electronics because of guess work and professional do not act like this at all. I will say a lot of tvs today are rubbish to repair and sometimes it can be a firmware flash you have to do on them and can be easy as that so much stuff today I repair is software rubbish causing the root of the problem. The amount of laptops I get come in that don’t work are just firmware ic gone bad and needs replacing and flash. Sony stuff today is rubbish like most stuff is. The days of good makes have gone now. Shame years ago makes was about quality.