Affiliate links for products in the video Mat66 80mil CLD amzn.to/30dGkim Sonic Barrier MX4 CLD/CCF amzn.to/3hTOGlu Closed cell foam amzn.to/2BO61wO Mass loaded vinyl amzn.to/3jZw19x Tessa tape amzn.to/311Lai5 Wiss Scissors amzn.to/3hQYaxD Stanley box knife amzn.to/39HObI7
Your demeanor and your calm presentation style made me confident bro….. thank you! I was as hesitating on my build- because the task seemed huge- I’m 51 and getting back into it - I’m gonna lay the mat before a sub…. Started with some gasket and silicone baffles for direction on the fronts and I just ordered two door kits thanks to you !! 🤙🏾
They aren't cheap but you can get an awesome roller from a flat or low slope roofing supply store. They have heavy duty rollers that have a roller which has bearings in it and the head is made of a nonstick rubber that is orange in color.
A little tip with the rear hatch or doors- don't use expanding spray foam around the locking mechanism. It seizes up the mechanism, making it impossible to unlock/lock the hatch/door. I use industrial spray glue b4 adding the sound dampening material (add to both surfaces and let it tack up, roll as normal). Also I use rubber grippy material(normally used to keep stuff from moving on a surface) as my barrier between panels (also spray glued down). In large spaces between inner and outer skin I use a combination of pool noodles(cut long ways into quarters, to appropriate length), quilters batting sheets, and reflectix foiled bubble sheets. On areas behind speakers/subs I go with a high quality all-in-one material like dynomat or second skin. All my door woofers have foam baffles. My big 4 has fire sleeve around it to keep the wires safe from the heat. Underneath the hood has dynamat hoodliner and expanding fire block foam in its ribs. My wire going to the amp has cool tube on when it's under the vehicle. I know this doesn't sound like sound dampening stuff, but it is. The wire emits it's own noise, and I'm trying to isolate it as much as possible.
yeah, in most cars, extra sound deadening makes a pretty big difference of the noisefloor. I probably had 15-20 kg's of extra sound deadening in my old volvo s60, door speakers, trunk and so on, finding all the ratteling bits, fabric tapeing them up. Now i drive a Lexus is200 sportcross, well, the noiselevel stock is lower then the sound deadened volvo... makes it waay easier to do the stereosystem sounding great.
i think the tesa tape is one of the best ides when i did my doors i had my daughter wrap every wire in the doors, Really sucks when you have 100% coverage and you have to replace a door lock motor🤣🤣🤣
Sorry, so there’s a difference between reducing my rattle and there’s another foam for actually reducing road noise and such? Just so I don’t end up purchasing the wrong item. If anyone can help clarify! Thank you
@@dude9237 CLD tiles plus a layer of closed cell foam and then mass loaded vinyl to really kill the road noise, but you can do the first 2 and get 80% of the result
Thanks. Question I have a 2004 Honda Element that as you probably know is not very quiet. I would like to eliminate outside noise but price is important. I am willing to spend on quality as my dad used to say, you get what you pay for. I also noticed that it doesn’t have that plastic coverings on the doors. I am the original owner so not sure if it didn’t come with it or was removed by 6th Avenue electronics when they were in business and and installed Alpine component 6.5 speakers which sound good. I think definitely the back tailgate also needs deadening material. FYI the car comes with rubber flooring. Gracias 😎
How is the mat66 deadener? I see a lot of people using more expensive products such as Dynamat or Soundshield. Don't want to spend the extra money on those products if the cheaper Matt66 is sufficient?
Ture. CCF is meant to be a decoupler so vibrations aren't passed from one part, or panel, to another. It doesn't absorb sound waves. Resonix makes a great sound absorbing material that made a big difference in my doors.
In regards to the MLV stuff, is it intended to be adhered to panels like other products, or "laid over" and left loose? I've seen a couple ameture-ish videos on RU-vid where they just drape it over the floorpan and hang it on door panels, but I've never seen anything formal about how to install it. :]
If you’re trying to get rid of your doors rattling buy maybe 30$ worth weather stripping tape. Only took 4 $5 rolls to get rid of every rattle in my Subaru
I am torn with what to do, so my project is an old 1966 car restoration so not audio/sound system related more to just solid up the panels, floors etc and for comfort/protection etc. All the interior door cards/carpet is out and before putting it back in I was thinking of using this method. So really anything is better nothing I guess, I also have to replace the carpet underlay which was thick so I am still at a lose.
I am running two of the down firing kicker 12’s in a bronco sport but it has like a plastic floor and it doesn’t sound very good almost sounds like drumming on a plastic drum. Any recommendations on how to improve the sound?
CLD works on plastic too. A layer of that with some CCF on top as a decoupler. should deaden the floor nicely. I'd start with CLD (I've had great luck with Noico 80 mil) and see how you like it. If you want more, CCF would be my next step. Sound deadening is a slippery slope - your doors would also benefit from CLD applied to the external skin.
I actually extend the cld inside the holes for the mounting clips which makes them much tighter and eliminates the clip rattling completely. Coupled with the tessa tape wrapped around where the clips mount to the panel as you did
Well looks like I may have waisted some time and money I am restoring my 1998 s 10 ....etc cab .....had a water leak problem ....so I fixed that and pulled all the interior panels and carpet outta the truck ....sanded and primed the floor ( had to fix 2 small rust holes ) so I went on and just sanded all the surface rust down to bare metal and put one layer self etching primer and 2 layers of urathane primer ....then got on ebay ordered some sound mat but it was just 3/8 th inch foil faced non toxic foam with adhisive backing and just did 100 precent coverage on floor and back wall of cab rolled it all and foil tapped the seams ...also did both doors where door panels cover .... covered everything but where moving parts were (door rod and lock rod window crank spring etc.) Also took headliner out to be recovered and didn't do 100 precent coverage but did the space between where headliner attached .....but I did use just foil backed 3/8 in non toxic heat and sound mat ....not going to remove it ...that would be a nightmare....hope it helps....
It’s been so long since I’ve priced out work at a shop I couldn’t really say, but I can say it wouldn’t be cheap and probably at least $300 just in product.
did the rear deck, behind the rear seat, under the rear seat, and both front doors on 2 and a half rolls of this: www.homedepot.com/p/RESISTO-6-in-x-25-ft-Aluminum-Flashing-Tape-66876/313294560 worked great, and cost lest than 50 bucks.
Hello. I have a suzuki Celerio hatchback (new shape) and i want to reduce the outside noise, the plastic door panels also rattle and i was thinking of floor too to damp the heat. And the roof of the car. As i live in an area which is both too cold and too warm in both seasons. Please suggest me about the sheets. Which sheet should i use where. Please reply. Been looking for it for a month now. Mention sheet name according to the car panel. Thanks
Great video and knowledge. Question: I have a Jeep Wrangler and the driver side dash speaker resonates irregularly (but annoyingly) at certain low-midrange frequencies. I think it’s something with fitment for only that side. Does dynamat work in plastic enclosures? Any suggestions for this type of issue? Thank you!
Duck tape will do a whole lot of nothing. A lot of people wanna use the peel and stick at the local hardware store as well, but I definitely would not recommend that either. Save yourself up about $100 and you can get a decent amount of product to use on your vehicle
After 5 months how has the Mat66 held up? I'm in the market for good sound deadener, but I don't have hundreds of dollars to spend on just a little bit of material
@@HifiVega that's what I like to here. I'm a bit north of you in southern iowa so the outside temps should be fairly similar. I think it does get a little hotter down there though, which makes it sound even better
What do you think about homemade foam speaker rings and what type of foam do you think would be sufficient? I believe I read open cell foam is good for attenuating higher frequencies, but does it make a difference what kind is used?
Because of the inherent properties of that plastic it will always have some vibration. The point is to reduce it to were it's inaudible when playing music
@@HifiVega I understand that I'm disabled now so very hard to do my own installs thanks anyways I always enjoy you videos hope to see you around I live in Greenwood keep up the good work
I would say the explanation for MLV in this video wasn’t exactly accurate. You would use MLV similar to how egg-cartons can be applied to help reflect interior sounds back into the vehicle, closed-cell foam to absorb sound transfer after the fact, and then your dynamat for the resonance. I’d say this is a good tutorial for someone just looking to make their bass not rattle their car, but to improve acoustics I’d refer to other sources (interior-to-exterior: MLV->closed-cell foam->dynamat)
I respectfully disagree. If MLV was meant to help only with reflections it would not be mass loaded (weighted) and it’s behind the panels so it’s better for helping with road noise and panel noise in my experience.
I put a V8 engine in my DeLorean and want to make the passenger compartment as quiet as possible, especially because there is a big engine with a very small exhaust system 2 - 3 feet behind the heads of the people inside. Have you tested Noico RED 150 mil or 315 mil, and is it any more effective than Kilmat 80 or other similar product? What about the Amazon Basics Car Sound Deadener?
I wish I would of seen this the day it came out anyway I was wondering couldn't you just get a 5gallon bucket of bed liner and spray it on the more layers the thinker you can make it . it will be a rubber coating basically if needed you could add some type of mesh and spay over it if needed to be more solid. I have sound dentning rubber spray and it looks like the same thing it's just isn't texture like the bed liner. It's also way cheaper than buying all that mate a 5 gallon bucket can do quit a bit. Definitely would make the door solid structure you could spay the hole inside. if in a truck you don't even need the carpet back in with the floor bed liner. Would love to here what your opinion is have a great one till the next one 🎵🎶👍👌✌️💯🥂
@@HifiVega thanks for answering iv spayed it in side of a speaker boxes before and it make the box sound more solid when taping on the wood on the out side and ya the only way you came put a extra layers is if it not completely dry 🎵🎶👍👌✌️💯🥂
