It’s very unfortunate you have to explain/justify quality repair work for a working musician. The world we live in with the armchair internet pros make it so…I always appreciate your efforts, we need more like you in this world👍🏻
I like your solution for mounting the dropper resistors, mechanically sound, they aren't going anywhere. We've all done the probe on the grid thing. I blew a speaker out (VOX AC50), did not enhance my popularity.
I saw that one coming from beyond the horizon. Nice job, Lyle! I've done it too, and I'll do it again. You can re-bond traces and pads back to the PCBs but to properly do it, that is a very very expensive repair using a ridiculously expensive repair kit. If it's not a $6,000+ ham radio, it's just not worth it.
I don’t think I’ve ever seen ceramic octal sockets in a Fender reissue. I saw the “60th Anniversary” sticker on the back panel. I wonder if that’s a 2002 for FEI or 2013 for the amp model. I’m thinking it’s a 2013, because I haven’t really dealt with them that “new”. It’s probably a good thing they changed from the typical black phenolic octal sockets, if those are high quality ceramic. Every mid 2000’s and older reissue I open up has had electrical burn marks from probe short circuits. Enjoyed the video, have a good one!
@@PsionicAudio that is so weird. I had a lot of bassmans and supers on my bench and I don’t remember a single one having ceramics. Even the DRRI from 2019 had black phenolic. I bet it’s a parts v cost v availability thing.
Sometimes I’ll scrape the traces and then drill a small hole in the exposed copper. Then feed in your leads and bend them against the traces and solder away.
Lyle, are the thermal fuses inside Fender-reissue transformers accessible for bypassing and replacement if they go bad? I've replaced them on occasion on old solid-state hifi gear where exact replacement transformers are no longer available......also curious if anyone, factory or aftermarket, Is using bayonet LED lamps to replace the standard #47 pilot lamp. The quality of many LED bayonet-base lamps isn't great, and I can foresee that, with today's high wall voltages, one might still want to use a standard incandescent lamp to help pull the heater circuit downward in the direction of 6.3 volts....
Where does the lamp get connected to? Same spot before relocating the heater wires from the board? I wonder if thats the first thing I should do with the 68 Custom Pro Reverb. Will be interesting to see how it compares. Maybe ill have to post a vid
From Leo: I hate when they pcb mount the pots and then orient the board so you cannot clean the pots without disassembly. Seems like someone would have thought a little about service after the sale.
Lyle, can you explain (like I’m 5) why you feel some amps don’t require a standby? I heard Mr. Carlson (‘s Lab) mention this before, and I completely forgot to research why… Thanks in advance.
I was listening to Live in Rio last night while working on the Park 150. Big Rush fan here, though I don't like the sounds they were getting after Presto. Too many layers, too much limiting, too much SansAmp.
