I had absolutely no interest in soundproofing a room, but seeing someone love what he does like you I couldn't help myself but to watch the whole video.
Having worked on several recording studio construction projects I would commend you on this video. I would, however, add the following. If you are adding new studding it is imperative to put rubber underneath the 2 by 4 being anchored to the floor. This is even more important if you are using metal studding and a channel anchored to the floor. Additionally rubber should be wrapped over the bottom (and later the top) of the metal stud and the screw driven through the channel, rubber and then the stud. In a studio into the control room is three panes of glass. The center is perpendicular and the studio side panel is angled, the top being farther from the center than the bottom. In the control room the top is farther from the center than the bottom. All glass is in neoprene gadgets and double layer glass is used for each of the panes (such as thermo panel). You can get a similar effect at home with a window insert, a second pane of glass in a vinyl frame that on the inside sits in front of the windlow and fills the entire opening. One thing which we do in the studio which is not practical at home is in addition to the caulk between the two layers of sheetrock we put lead foil, the weight of which truly deadens the sound. There are commercial panels that mimick that effect and you replace the front 5/8's sheet rock with it. When done we place microphones in the surrounding rooms and fire a starters pistol. You should not be able to hear it. Note that there are sound deadening paints with glass beads in it but it is only truly useable against high frequency noise or transients.
Interesting detail about the lead foil! The window blanket in this video was a joke... for all the cost and effort in the rest of the build, swapping out to a soundproof window would have been the easiest part. Was hoping to see professional grade work in this (concrete to absorb the bass, double-wall construction, etc) but then no product shilling I guess!
@A A - he doesn’t get paid by companies for product promotion- adding a new window may not have been in the budget or he just wasn’t aware of it- he is one of the few guys on RU-vid that doesn’t promote products he doesn’t believe in
Very similar process that is used on submarines. We had "floating" decks, in that the deck was supported by "deck clips". The deck was actually not welded to the hull. Also the "floating" deck was supported with rubber sound mounts throughout the deck. The sound prevention we were seeking was the reduction of radiated sound through the hull. I love the clips and the sound damping matt. We had a similar material (SHT) sound damping tiles that were glued to the outside of 688-I hulls.
Finally someone who states different materials to absorb different waves. Spot on! As there are different resonant frequencies that must be addressed, this is part of the whole solution.
I feel your pain. I'm having to live in a travel trailer right now, and I was on nights for 4 years in this trailer, if you've ever lived in a trailer, you can hear everything going on outside... not only that take make matters worse... I live in a trailer park... and my landlord is noisiest freaking landlord ever... always on his backhoe, and some days he likes to play loud music... and even likes to do karaoke outside... for everyone in the park to hear... it's not pretty... luckily I finally got on days, and I dont have to worry about the noise as much now.
THis wins the BEST sound proofing video of the decade! The fact that you are leaving your MLV to hang/float like a drum head, is GENIUS and ultra affective!!! YOU ROCK!!! I wish I had thought of that before I did my room.
When I think of sound proofing, I think of when no one care hear any sound coming from that room *and* stopping all other sounds from coming into the room. Absolutely outstanding Video, thank you for your hard work in making not only this video but your other videos as well.
Great system. In my opinion as a movie lover, a great theatre room should have wall to wall carpet as well to reduce sound deflection. The less hard surfaces (i.e. windows, coffee tables, tile) the better. Love your channel, it’s given me the confidence to tackle projects with great results!
Forget carpet. Use panels made with rigid mineral wool and accoustic foam. Carpet only handles the highest freqs. Theres a lot more thats muddies the sound of a room besides highs. The acoustic foam will tame the mids and highs and the mineral wool can start to tame the lower freqs.
Questions: 1. What if you want light to come through the window? If you're willing to tear out the windows and frames to the rough opening and use two sets of windows with a big air gap between them, would that suffice? You could really treat the framing properly from a soundproofing standpoint. 2. What if you surface mount all of the electric and lighting on the sheetrock so as to keep the penetrations to an absolute minimum? 3. How exactly do you handle ventilation? I know there are ways to treat the ductwork (folding, lining, etc.) to minimize sound transfer.
Happy to see someone using putty pads on boxes, double 5/8 drywall, green glue, hat channel, clips, and fiberglass insulation. HOWEVER, there is a lot of bad info here. First, MLV doesn't add 20 STC any more than adding a third layer of 5/8 drywall would add 20 more STC. Alone, maybe 20 STC, but together with the other soundproofing elements, maybe 2 or 3 STC, making it an expensive addon for not much gain (just like rock wool). Second, while sound does travel through air, any solid surface will stop the sound and either reflect it or convert it to kinetic energy and heat. There is no need to vapor barrier interior walls if you are drywalling, mudding and taping, and caulking your seams. Third, you use green glue BETWEEN the drywall sheets, not on the back side of the sheet that attaches to the wall. It isn't the mass that it adds that helps, it's the elastic property that allows the sheets of drywall to convert kinetic energy (vibration) into heat. Fourth, you HAVE to stagger your clips!!! Attaching them at every stud is almost the same as just not using them at all. Even the cheapest clips can handle 90 lbs of weight, so there is no need for 12-16 clips per 4x8 sheet of drywall. Fifth, it isn't the fibers in 5/8 drywall that matter, it's the mass. Sound is just air vibrating, and when it hits a different medium it will either reflect off or convert to vibrating that new medium. The more mass you have in the new medium, the more energy is converted to heat when it tries to overcome the momentum of the new medium. You use 5/8 instead of 1/2 because it is significantly more mass. Six, the reason for hat channel and clips is so that your drywall is decoupled from the studs, but also so that your drywall can move freely (i.e. flex). This is what helps reduce sound transmission of lower frequencies. The bass converts to kinetic energy when it hits the drywall and the drywall can now move more freely because it isn't connected to every stud. The more it moves, the more kinetic energy converts to heat instead of transmitting to the studs. Seven, a single solid core interior door even with door seals will have about a 40 STC. If your walls are built to have a 60-65 STC, having a 40 STC door makes it all a complete waste of time and money. You either need to beef up that door significantly with a couple sheets of 3/4" MDF, or use two communicating doors, both with door seals. Eight, foam is NOT good for soundproofing, so don't foam anything. Foam insulation just becomes a coupler to join an exterior surface to the studs. Use fiberglass insulation loosely filling any gaps around doors. Do your best to isolate the door frame from the studs, and if possible, use two door frames and communicating doors. It's all for nothing if your sound just vibrates the door frame and that vibrates your studs and now you can hear it on the other side of the house because it traveled through your framing. Doors are tricky, do your research. And last of all, HVAC is the hardest part of a soundproof room. If you tie into your existing HVAC, you have massive holes in your soundproof shell that allow sound in and out. You need to first add some kind of muffler to kill the sound traveling through the duct. Then you need to make sure that the duct between the room and the muffler is sound proofed. Sound will blast right through tin ducts as if they aren't there, so your duct needs to have the same STC as the walls. Make them from double drywall or MDF and drywall. After the muffler, it can go back to tin or flex duct. You can go with a mini-split system, but you still need fresh air, so some kind of muffled and sound proofed ducting is probably necessary. A few other tips: Don't forget lighting. Light cans are just a big hole in the ceiling, so they need backer boxes or to be completely inside the soundproof shell. The purpose of soundproofing is more to keep sound out than to keep sound in. You want it quiet in the theater so you can keep the volume down and still hear every detail without blowing your eardrums out. Sound will find a way out (or in) if you don't go 100%. This means exterior walls too. Concrete transmits sound better than you would expect, so you still need to isolate your walls from the concrete if possible, and the same goes for the floor. Installation is critical, the best engineered systems can be 100% defeated with one misplaced screw. Do your research and install it per the manufacturer specs no matter how flimsy you think it will be. And the last tip: Don't expect miracles. 65 STC is good, and 75 STC is amazing, but a thousand watts of 20hz bass will pass through it all like it isn't even there. STC is an average drop in db based on a range of 100hz and up, it doesn't mean you will drop that much sound across all frequencies.
Between the video and ur comment I'm REALLY hoping I can truly sound proof my bedroom from my noisy neighbors... I live in a super cheap mobile home and at this point i am willing to put in the work. Thanks for your additional info!
wow! thanks for the info. its similar comparison to the different between dampproofing and waterproofing. (MANY CONFUSE THE TWO), guess I have to consider dampening sound apposed to the very intense soundproofing. I think you saved me a huge time and money expense.
Hey Jeff, just wanted to say i have only recently come across your channel, it's absolutely mind blowing the amount of knowledge that you have in this industry. I am looking at buying a house in the near future, looks quite run down and not looked after, since discovering your channel it has shown me that i can do many things involving DIY without having to worry or stress as long as i use the right tools and materials, as well as the handy DIY tips that you teach. Plus, it's a hell of a lot cheaper! Thank you for what you do, it's awesome!
Bob Ross and Red Green mixed together 🤣 who would have ever thought Bob Ross would have had such an effect on so many people long after he left us to share his talent in a medium that we are not in.
This is one of the BEST video's that I have ever seen. And I have seen a lot. Not only the explanation, and showing how it is done, but also the "humanness" of the presenter. And he is correct, there are "sound proof rooms" where you can actually hear the "swishing" of your blood in your ears. And that is the truth.
I work in NVH (different field), Jeff has all the concepts down. Holes are the enemy. Working to reduce the structureborne paths, a decoupling layer, and fluffy stuff for absorption. I'm only 10 min into the video and can already say you have done a great job!
Great videos...as always! I'm not sure, but it looks like regular drywall screws were used to attach the Whisper Clips to the studs. It is highly recommended to use a stronger construction screw to secure the clips. A lot of weight on those clips! I am doing the same project with 5/8 OSB then 5/8 fire rated drywall. I am using the OSB as my first layer so I can attach things such as guitar hangers through the drywall and into the OSB. Green Glue in between is definitely the way to go and cheaper if you buy the 5 gallon with the Green Glue gun. Two tubes of Green Glue/4x8 sheet of drywall. Thanks for all of your videos! You do a great service for so many of us DIYer's!!!!
I have to say your work and videos are great. Your sense of humor adds to your success. If I was a younger man you would have been a great mentor, hats off to you.
This is a really great video. I am so sensitive to sound. I’d love to soundproof my room on the bottom floor which is right next to two hvac units outside. Also, the floors here are super hollow sounding and upstairs the floors creek and you can hear walking pretty bad. You can also hear plumbing water and toilet flushing from upstairs. I put insulation where the pipes are upstairs under the bathroom and in the dining room wall where the pipes run, but you can still hear the water going through the pipes. Id love to see a video done about installing wood floors upstairs and how to soundproof between floors and stop squeaky floors maybe in the future.
I had a house so well insulated in 1996: I was fully confident to set up a home shooting range inside the house; under the stair well. Nobody ever discovered what I was doing; and I was firing .22 lr, .380 ammo, and 12 gauge. It was double insulated with fiberglass.
I gotta tell you about the method I found for a Basement Studio Recordng Studio I built. The most significant way to soundproof is to ISOLATE wall surfaces from each other. Most walls use wood studs with drywall panels nailed to both sides of the studs. This basically makes the Wall itself a Speaker, transferring sound directly through the wall via the studs to the other panel. In my studio, I pulled off the drywall from the inside the studio, and then installed NEW 2x4 bottom plates, ripped right down the middle. Studs are cheap as is drywall, so then I installed a complete new set of studs using the new bottom plate so the new studs were flush with the new half of the bottom plate, AND in between the old studs, on 16 inch centers, but shifted 8 inches. This worked AMAZINGLY! The inside walls were now completely isolated from the outside wall. This is called "Staggered-Stud" soundproofing, it does make a 6 inch wall, so the room got a little smaller, but I didn't have to drill any new holes for electrical or sound wiring, I just weaved them around the studs!. I added some Mass loaded vinyl, weaved between the studs, just like the new wiring jacks and electrical outlets. This room turned out so well, I could watch movies in the main room downstairs, and my brother could play his FULL DRUM KIT in the studio, and I could barely hear him. I priced J-mould walls, and all the stuff available in 2004, and this was QUITE SUBSTANTIALLY cheaper. I didn't think of trying something like that for the ceiling, so the dining room directly over the studio, not so well sound-proofed,. LOL But I think your double 5/8" drywall with the Caulking would have made this awesome. Also, the central air ducting running through that room, definitely an issue still, but we lived with it. For the windows, I just got 2 double-pane sealed,(non-opening) windows, and just installed them on the inside and the outside of that single opening, being extra careful to make 100% sure the inside surfaces were spotless... makeshift 4 pane sealed window, it did the trick and still looked perfect.
My number 1 project for 2020. Been waiting for an instruction video of this quality for ages. Everything seems either half-a$$ed or poorly explained. This is neither. This is so good! Thank you 🙏
Pretty good job, but completely avoided the toughest part of soundproofing a room: How to handle heating/Air Conditioning ducting, which of course is air-flow, which transmits sound waves.
Good point and I would love to see a video on that, however, this is already a 30 minute video and I would imagine a whole separate video would be more appropriate.
Ah man i just asked a similar question just above regarding running out of oxygen. Especially in a basement and not an attic like it the video. Still loved the video though! Also how do i get a cell signal into that bunker now, just a booster?
Excellent! I just had a couple of questions: 1) what to do about ventilation (which I see has already been addressed in the comments), and 2) how to treat the interior surface of the walls, e.g. perforated panels, foam wedges, bass traps?
@@shaun6828 Haha good point. Although that room is still nowhere near being vacuum-sealed and oxygen can still enter, albeit there will be less fresh air being circulated. I mean, unless you plan to stay in there for longer than a few hours for movies, it shouldn't pose as a health risk; our bodies will let us know we will need oxygen, even if we're asleep. I was thinking of using a portable air conditioner unit but there are still certain limitations in terms of airflow and obtaining fresh air. It would be great to watch another video on soundproofing the HVAC system or airflow mechanics.
@L G Try it out and make a video to let us know of your results. I also can't imagine that we're the only ones that have thought of, or done any professional soundproofing work. Seek out the pros within your local A/V charters or online forums for advice. I had received free soundproofing consultations with an intention to proceed with the work, but then COVID-19 happened and in my case, safety first. :)
90%: Installs extensive hidden sound proofing system for aesthetic appeal and performance. 10%: Last step, grab a 70 pound silver blanket and Velcro it to your wall.
Great job,, i built a music studio in my basement and employed most all of these techniques even mlv around all the air ducts. I say most ,because i neglected to use hat channel for the ceiling and kinda regretted it later,, it was the one weak link in my room.
omg!!! expanding foam used between the door jamb and the stud will force the jamb in and change the position of the door. may not close properly or not at all or squeaks as the hinges are not aligned anymore.
Hey Jeff, What did you do to prevent the sound from travelling through the floor? Did you just put down MLV, or did you build a floating subfloor that is mechanically disconnected from everything?
I came here to learn about how to do a floor. I know I sound stupid but I wonder if I can lay 5/8ths type x sheet rock on the floor then mlv and my new floor. It's a second story.
The home in the video appears to be at ground level, so unless I've misunderstood your concern, there isn't a significant benefit in soundproofing the floor if there is no one living under you, assuming there is a basement. It was mentioned that the vinyl padding comes in several variations, one of which is a thicker model that can be installed under your floorboards.
Curious why the double 5/8 and not just a room-in-a-room? Is that just a cost savings? What's the measurable benefit doing double 5/8 vs. room-in-a-room (or vice-versa)? We have a small professional video recording studio at work and room-in-a-room is how it's built and it's hear-your-heartbeat silent.
I've been looking at his videos for ideas to sounds proof my basement and was wondering the same thing. Luckily for me my mechanical is right there and has a 6 in pipe for air. Which brings up another question, with all the effort to minimize even the smallest air leak, is the effort worth it having all the areas where you cant efficiently sound proof especially around the ducts?
JB he’s dramatically exaggerating the extent to which sound passes through tiny holes. Your room doesn’t have to be an anechoic chamber. Even with air pipes and even windows, the space will be much quieter.
Just built a drum room inside my garage the dimensions are 8’x5.5’. Wish I would of caught your video prior but still in the last phase of finishing. I used mineral wool bats between studs from Owens Corning 3” thick plus 1/2” thick Owens Corning pink foam board with 1/2” sheetrock inside and out. 1” Owens Corning foam board for ceiling between garage ceiling and my room with 3” mineral wool. Insulated garage attic joists with 12”standard insulation since it had none. The door for my room is thick as the walls 4 1/2” with same material as in walls rubber floor sweep solid hinge from top to bottom with door closing 1/2” sheetrock with rubber over stud to seal. Foam sealed plugs gaps etc. now here’s my dilemma the sound barrier vinyl roll. I haven’t bought it yet but was going to put it on the outside with 5/8” sheetrock on the outside (I was limited on the space I have in the garage. Will it still be effective on the outside or does it need to be on the inside of my room. Also I didn’t use the channel I just direct mounted the sheetrock to the studs. Before my drum or stereo sound carried down the block at least now barely audible at the end of my driveway. Would I be wasting money or time by installing the barrier on the outside or would 5/8” sheetrock be ok without it. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks for the video and info to your links. A lot less expensive through trademark than sweetwater music or auralex.
Awesome video! I do have a question. Pricewise, what's the difference between soundproofing like that and just a regular wall, for a room that size? And the guys at the soundproofing company should think about using magnets instead of Velcro. Would look way better as you can find ways to hide the magnets, like placing it right on the outside edges of the framing. Thanks for the video, Jeff!
We bought Green Glue in the 5 gallon pails. Great for a large job. But for new construction Quietrock does the same thing with just 1 sheet. It comes with the GG-like layer already in the middle.
Hey Jeff! Back in Jan of 2019, you did a fantastic video called: Soundproof: What Works And What Doesn't! In the video, the decoupled wall solution was rated the most awesome, with the best STC rating. In this video here (Oct 2019), you take us through the MLV and Hat Channel solution. Which one of these would you choose? What is the "general" STC of the MLV + Hat Channel + 2 layers or 5/8's w/green glue? Thank you in advance!
I'm not Jeff, but here's my 2 cents on it anyways. Decoupling and sealing are the two main ways to block direct sound transfer. The ideal situation would be to make a box-in-box that is completely decoupled and sealed, but since there is gravity and you need a way to get in and out of the room, that's impossible, however you can do your best decoupling everything you can. For walls, having a decoupled wall in front of the structure wall (ideally both sealed) is the best way to reduce direct sound transfer through the wall. Preferably that decoupled wall sits on a floor that is stiff and heavy so you don't have vibrations through the floor transferring to your decoupled wall, and you do this all the way around the room so the decoupled walls can support eachother without having to connect them to the ceiling to stay upright. The problem is the ceiling: unless you can make a frame that is strong enough to support its own weight + finishing attached only to those decoupled walls to create a decoupled ceiling, you have to find a way of installing the drywall or other ceiling material to the ceiling structure while still decoupling it as much as possible, which is where the hat channel system comes in place, but remember that no matter how many precautions you take and how many layers of padding you put between materials, if they're somehow attached to one another they will always transfer sound vibrations to one another, so it'll never beat a truly decoupled structure. Since the layer of mass vinyl + hat channel system was pretty much the best way of tackling the inside of the roof and ceiling here, I guess it made sense to keep the system consistent along the walls as well instead of trying to connect the top of decoupled walls to a ceiling mounted by hat channels, saves a bit of space as well.
To reduce the sound on a window wood shutters work, and if you put a honeycomb blackout shade it works even better, it gives a better look at your window. I did that kind of installations for 5 houses in their media room and every customer was really happy with the end results.
Having spent a decades long career in energy efficiency, many of these techniques clearly are similar. However, we worry about the people inside being able to breathe. Since removing the mechanical is important to sound proofing, how do you keep these rooms from gong stale (and the folks inside alive :)) during epic length movies, say Cleopatra, how do you deal with air exchange?
@@eps4560 Good thought, but you still need a supply or their will be very little air flow. That said, we use flex duct on both supply and return and have no noise problems.
Instead of the window mat, another option is German style tilt and swing windows. Good ones have triple gaskets and closing hardware on all sides to force the window into the gaskets.
If you want a soundproof window. Buy a European window- triple ridges, so you can have three vertical ridges of soundproofing and the gasket around the window to boot.
I left my blinds in place for a better look outside and used mass vinyl to cover my window. Pulled off the trim and sandwiched the vinyl under 1x3's in place of the trim. Then hung my projector screen over that. Total darkness and very quiet.
I'm amazed how different the american architecture is to what we typically use in Germany. Our walls and ceilings typically consist of concrete, steel and stone. I wonder how those would compare to your sophisticated measures. I turned up my music once to test sound insulation and how it would spread and found out that the doors and windows are the most prominent weak points for sound to spread within the building.
Great video with a ton of helpful information... How about those AC air vents/ducts that are in a media room? I feel it's like choosing between soundproofing or being baked ;-)
Generally speaking, mineral wool insulation is more dense, therefore better at resisting low frequency sound pressures (i.e. the wub-wub sounds people always compain about). BUT because of the extra mass and rigidity of mineral wool, if it is stuffed too tightly, sound will actually transfer through the solid material from stud-to-stud, and reduce the performance below the level of fiberglass insulation. So if you use mineral wool, it needs air-gaps around the edges - which negatively impacts thermal performance. Also - consider checking OITC instead of STC. OITC is basically the same as STC but includes the lower Hz bands, which is arguably more relevent in this application (with bass-y theatre rooms)
I will be moving into an apartment soon and plan on making the second bedroom into a music room. Since I can't do a lot of construction to someone else's property, how should I go about soundproofing the room so I don't bother the neighbors?
While I am a big fan of Green Glue for all sorts of applications, I am not all that happy with the channel approach. While some interior space is lost, I prefer to use a set of studs so that I create a staggered stud wall,, particularly for the walls that are adjacent to places in the house or structure where there will be activity. I have been designing and building sound enclosures and noise reduction systems since the 1970s. Other than that difference, everything presented here has been excellent. Excellent to the point that I will refer persons with questions about designing a room for a home theatre to this video.
You mentioned using Mass Loaded Vinyl under Vinyl flooring to cut down on noise transfer between two floors (apartments). Can you lay the vinyl flooring directly over the Mass Loaded Vinyl, or does another surface need to be laid in between?
After the room is effectively sealed from air movement, how does one deal with AC and heating vents into the room? Sound transfers through the duct work and air vents right? If the room is virtually air tight, how would the air flow from the cooling/heating vents come in if it has no gaps for air pressure to leave?
You need to build a labyrinth out of mdf/plywood. Like a zigzag maze for both in and out. One will house an inline extractor fan, lined with carpet or acoustic foam inside. and the box itself is a great way to use up left over materials. green glue and vinyl scraps etc.
a minisplit may be a good option, the wall mounted have a 3 inch hole for the copper and other lines but i think that wouldnt be too hard to seal. the unit itself if running on low would be very quiet and is silent when not turned on.
Hi Jeff, in your video you mentioned nothing about the heating system. Most of the houses use furnace heating that means you have vent channels running throughout the house. What kind of heating do you have in this room and what is your recommendation for soundproofing of vent channels? Thank you in advance for your answer.
Great question. I have a dedicated duct direct from the trunk line so All i do is wrap the line to adsorb noise transfer and it works pretty well. once the movie starts it is a non issue. If you are making a studio and need absolute silence then a minisplit is the best answer. Cheers!
9:13 when his kid gives him some grief for being out of breath. Jeff's response: "Fucker" with a slight chuckle. I absolutely loved that. Why I love this channel so much.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY mine from my parents is Douchebag. Thank you so much for all the videos! Currently remodeling my entire bathroom and doing all the construction, electrical, and plumbing myself. My local permit department has been wonderful so far working with me. Amazing how much of a resource they are when you want to do the work correctly.
I just discovered your page and I love your energy. Wonderful guy providing perfect balance of jokes, information and tutorial all at once. haven't even had to skim through. Keep it going!
How does that green goo work when you're connecting the sheets of drywall to the resilient channel? I thought the green goo was only for stacking one piece of drywall to another (layering)?
I had to watch the video twice to understand. He’s attaching 5/8 drywall to the metal channels then glueing another 5/8 drywall on top of the first drywall. Both drywall layers are attached using screws. I assume the entire room is done that way. From the studs you have: vapor barrier, black rubber sheet, resilient channels then 2 sheets of 5/8 drywall glued together.
I had the same question it wasn't clear that it was drywall going on drywall. it looked like they were just ringeling it to the channeling which didn't make
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Prolly need to re edit that section.. You stated that you were screwing to the Hat Channel (14:40 or so) Also a little while later he goes to put up the next piece (and discusses the lift) there is nothing there but the black material) If that was the case you could A) skip the goo, or B) goo the channel first and Then put up the drywall -first layer- then goo & screw the second layer.. Still "sound advise"
Hi Jeff, I was super impressed with this video of yours and built my basement theater room with some of your ideas. While I followed your suggestion to a T with a layer of mvl and hat bars hanging on clips with double sheet rocks with the green glue compound for the walls. I developed cold feet for the ceiling and used just the double sheet rocks on mvl.
Mini split is the end answer. I have seen attempted to use a labrythn box as well where an insulated flex line is curved or sound boxes built but they all effect air flow. Back to mini split.
@@chrisj9008 a mini split does not provide ventilation, only cooling and sometimes heating. You need baffle boxes (those labyrinth boxes you're talking about) in order to get air in and out of the room, you just need to make them big enough so that they're 1. quiet enough and 2. do not restrict air flow. Ideally, unless installing a fully ducted system for HVAC, then you would install a HRV for ventilation and dehumidification and a mini split for heating and cooling.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY a mini split does not provide ventilation, only cooling and sometimes heating. You need baffle boxes (those labyrinth boxes you're talking about) in order to get air in and out of the room, you just need to make them big enough so that they're 1. quiet enough and 2. do not restrict air flow. Ideally, unless installing a fully ducted system for HVAC, then you would install a HRV for ventilation and dehumidification and a mini split for heating and cooling.
I have an 8-12 pitch on a brand new barn, I’m building solo. The rafters are covered with relatively tight fitting 5/4 pine sheathing. I’m thinking I should put a few rolls of this product on. 1/4”? Quite a few rolls!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I looked into what it took and found a lot more questions than answers. This video answered my questions and explains why a lot of people are not satisfied with their results.
Hello Jeff, Great video, it has educated me alot. And also saved me from so many Rookie/ ameature tradersman. I wish to get some knowledge for soundproofing restaurant and its kitchen. Every restaurant has a Ventilation and Extraction system which requires a FLUE to exit fumes. What should we consider/do to minimise noise for neighbouring residential properties Thanks and keep up the good work
