I’m impressed. Especially considering it’s only 3 inches thick and considering what it is. It’s not a full-size custom box. For a very small all in one unit it has some good bass.
Yeah peoples.... go with the kicker or pioneer. Sound stream just isn't what they used to be back when I was a kid. They were built with quality and pounded. My friend Riley was a sound stream guy.
400w rms yeah right lol Interesting, on their own website it says 400w rms but in the description they say “The controlling, built-in 150-watt RMS amplifier delivers strong bass that’ll add intensity and thump to any system.” This is actually only 150w rms
Man. Seeing the construction of this thing I was very hopeful. I'm having a hard time finding a reliably decent underseat active sub around 200ish bucks. I'm not looking to spend 500 on an underseat sub, might as well have a full on boxed setup.
I have a stock Ford F-150 stereo. If I add this unit to my truck I have a question about the speaker hook up. Do I leave my rear stock speakers hooked up and then tap into the speakers with the spliced end of the RCA hook ups? Or do I buy a LOC and tap into the stock speakers and plug the RCA into the amp unit?
Tap into one or both rear speakers and extend the wires directly to the subwoofer plug. It accepts high level inputs. Its also likely to turn on automatically.
just try fixed one..underseat subs.. guaranteed..u never regret..its sound great..without taken space..the more u pay..the best quality bass sound u get!!
Is it possible to install two of these Kicker Hideaway subs? I already have the HS8 and just ordered the HS10, I am not an audio guy, but just wondering what I would need to buy in addition, so that both subs can be installed properly.
This is a huge step up from the industry-standard 8 inch under seat woofers which are built like a cookie-cutter . They're all the same more or less. 10 inches and 400 watts might make this actually feasible but still I always prefer a thin MDF box like pioneers ib-flat. **edit**** F**k these under seat subwoofers. Get a real thin MDF box, Shallow mount sub and mini amp
You will need to look up the wiring color of your vehicle. Factories can use all sorts of colors. Try Metra or Crutchfield and look for radio harnesses for your specific vehicle.
For compact active subwoofer (underseat), tp be precise is Blaupunkt GTR 130A, is it ok if connect the power(yellow) wire to the power wire of headunit? Not direct to the positive terminal of battery. Is it enough power for the active subwoofer?
No, you don't want to do that. The factory radio fuse is rated only for the radio. This needs 40 amps which is a good amount. You can run to battery, or probably the fuse box input wire. Use a ring terminal on 8ga or 10ga copper wire and a 40A fuse. This saves the trouble of going through the firewall. 40A should be fine. A 60A or higher load I'd say bite the bullet and go directly to battery.
so is there a powered sub unit that can handle low end bass? running the Rockville RW10CA 10" 800 Watt Slim Low Profile Active Powered Car Subwoofer Sub but it has NO low end it seems
For good output down low, like under 40hz, you typically need a ported enclosure. The lower the bass, the more power and cone area you need. That also usually means a bigger enclosure.
Thanks for the great video. I’m debating where do I put mine. Under the drivers seat, passenger or in my boot (trunk). Will I be annoyed that it’s just on the one side of the car if put it under 1 seat . In the boot (trunk) it’s at least in the middle of the car, but then at a cost of its further away so will it not be as good / fit fit purpose?
I'm not an expert, but the source of very low bass cannot be 'located' easily by our ears, due to how waves interact with our skull at different frequencies. I have a cheap underseat sub on the passenger side, and I can hear the balance shift in higher bass tones (100hz-ish) but not lower ones (35-50hz). Saying this, I immediately forget so it doesn't bug me. Some high-end home hi-fis have a sub designed to be put in the corner of the room, as the crossover is set very low (50hz maybe?) so you 'feel' the bass but doesn't seem off-centre.
Hello That good Advice,i have a Peugeot 308 SW 7 seater due to space i need under seat sub..Whats your advice do i need one or two...And is it necessary to use car amplifier....will appreciate your advice
So this has a built in amplifier. If you're going to get it you don't need an amp. If you want a subwoofer and external amplifier you'll get more power for sure
Can yous guys please just play some effing royalty free music because this thing sounded like crap with test tones. does not make me want to buy one for sure
I have owned 3 Soundstorm under the seat subs and I have to send them back in one year or less. I'm stuck with one now that just sits under the seat.. Adds some bass when working but for the price I expect them to last longer but they don't. Come on SSL put some good components in there instead of the cheap Chinese junk. From what I see other manufacturers are no better.
That's what I want two underseat ones for, even though my car has 10" midbass woofers in the door, I just want something to fill out the bottom end and sound smooth and decent spl with the top down so I can enjoy my jazz and some rap. I think these will work for both of us or the NVX or pioneer.
@@ericperry72 Yeah man I want something more powerful than what I have and one seems weak haha. Since they have independent amps I believe it should be possible, but I haven't asked or done it yet so if I remember when I ask or decide to do it I will get back to you and tell you how it went
I recently got one of these cause of the price but seriously you're better off saving up the extra cash and getting a better one. You get what you pay for. The bass gets really distorted and sounds like shit. I have a 1988 Toyota pickup single cab and I have it under the driver seat. The music I listen to is pretty diverse from metal, rap, reggae, Cumbia and a lot more. Seriously just save up for a better one.
The Class D amps and 40A fuse points to it being legit. Assuming about 80% efficiency you could clamp an amp meter and run test tones at different frequencies to see if it draws near 40A. If the max draw was only 10A, then it might only be 100w. For class D amps, 10 times the fuse rating is about right.
@@JasonWW2000 cheap amps that lie a out their power output are not against putting in larger fuses to make you think it is a higher wattage. Ive seen it before.
@@LewdnCute Wow, what products did that? I haven't seen it. The closest I've seen was an amp with a 25A fuse that drew 18A at most. So about 5A bigger than what they should have used.
Its very simple. A lot of older companies were sold and the new owners still use the name. Soundstream seems to have went out of business in the early 2000's. It was bought by someone else, Power Acoustic maybe?, so the name lives on even though the products are completely different.
I have a pair of Soundstream 12' subs. 500 Watts RMS each, and a 1,000 watt RMS Soundstream amp pushing them. They were louder than my Rockford Fosgate system with 3 10's on 1200 watts. Also had it for 5 years, and still holding up great. Sounds great. Soundstream is one of my favorite companies. You can't beat them dollar per decibel.
@@singedcarry soundstream is also not great. Look into proper competition brands, you would be surprised how cheap (price wise) their lower end stuff gets. I have two resilient sounds platinum 12s, 2000 watts RMS each. Powered by a crescendo bass clef 8k amplifier. In a custom 4th order box. Long story short. It slaps.
Doesn’t seem that great. The kicker hideaway seems better. I have it it’s not going to make you say wow, but it does give a fuller sound. It’s not very loud. It won’t give you that bass feeling, just i better overall sound. Again it’s not very loud.
400w RMS, yeah sure buddy, hehehe. At what Ohm or how they fiddle with numbers to come up with that number for the fraction of a second? Not knocking you though, it's these ridiculous companies pushing out this nonsense, I know it's not the full truth but fact remain, if going by known, decent sellers of a certain reputation there is no way around it, cost will reflect some of the quality cause higher quality well build, good sounding equipment is not on the cheap side just is what it is take it or leave it. Nope, personally I much rather go with a known manufacturer offering something tested and true, even if it says 120w RMS on the that box, which does not sound as exiting as 400w for sure.
Most lighter plugs are only 30A. I'd probably add a ring terminal and pull power from the fuse box input. 40A should be okay, especially since you won't be maxing it out constantly and music is in surges.
I have both the usb10p and a hideaway. They both sound nice for what they are. The Soundstream has a little more range and it sounds better and hits harder. Neither of them are as loud as having a big boxed woofer but they don’t take up room inside the cabin of your vehicle. I really. Like this usb10p so far. Good luck with what ever you choose.
@@hi-fi3889 correct it has 40 amp fuse on its amplifier. most of these pioneer and kenwood under seat subs are rated 150w rms and have a 15-20 amp fuse. again cant judge a sub from a video need to hear it in person.
@@Joshua-nn6dz k and that's where you'd be wrong. it's like I've never heard a sub cause a sensitive Mic to clip, and the Mic was definitely being clipped.
