It's going to look good, but I have a couple of suggestions. 1: That so-called Gibb, on the right-hand side front of the saddle, Is not to Gibb. it's a saddle lock. it should be fairly loose. The pressure of the cutting action keeps that side of the saddle down. also the gear that moves it from side to side keeps it from moving as well. If you leave the saddle lock tight, It can cause it to bind up. Leave it loose. 2: Never set anything on the bed, other than a piece of wood to protect it. It doesn't take much to ding it up and cause problems. 3: when installing the crossfeed and compound rest screws, you need to oil the threads, gear and bearing surfaces. on the cross slide screw, what you oiled was a non-bearing surface. Although oil will not hurt it, it will not help it either. It will just keep it from rusting. 4: When installing a key, gravity can be your friend. If you stand the compound up on end, gravity will hold it in place. also I don't think the keys were made out of aluminum. Normally they are steel are brass. 5: on those graduated dials, There should be a small brass pin underneath the set screw. This keeps the set screw from damaging the bearing surface. Do not tighten up your set screw without this brass pin in place. If you have lost them, they can be made from a piece of brass brazing rod. 6: there is always going to be backlash in the lead screw/graduated dial. you just have to learn to live with it. Always feed into the cut. If you have to back away from your cut back away enough to eliminate the backlash plus, then feed back into the distance you want. 7: when adjusting your gibs, make sure the set screw is over the mating dovetail surface. 8: do not paint your lantern tool post. It is not necessary, and it can cause vibration because of compression of the paint. You're better off to leave it as is. Take your time, it's going to get there. Joe.
Hallo Captjamie, i would like to congratulate you for your excellent videos regarding the restoration of theSouthbend 9a lathe. My mechanic, has that same lathe which is working every day now since 1948. As you can understand he is having accuracy problems with some parts and specially with the lathe bed. I would like to ask you, what he can do to solve the wear bed problem. Is there a material that he can add to the wear part or the whole bed or something else? Thank you in advance, and carry on your good job. Spiros
at 4:25 you insert a retaining screw into the compound slide. Is the orifice above an oil hole or for a (locking) set-screw? At present I am rebuilding a Sheraton Model AM lathe (Melbourne made South-Bend clone) and disassembly of the compound is proving difficult. I suspect a broken (eg: snapped-off) set screw to be at fault above the retaining screw.
thanks for watching Paulo, The paint is XO Rust, farm and implement enamel. The color is Ford Blue. I also used Valspar enamel hardener to make the paint harder. If you check out the first couple of videos in the series I show the paint cans and talk a little about it. Thanks again
Hi D. J.: Thanks for watching the videos. Man you are asking a tough question as I hadn't started filming when I took it apart, but as I recall after removing the screws that hold the 2 pins in place I just wiggled the compound slide back and forth and the angle on the ends of the pins and the angle they engage on the bottom of the slide help to push them out of the way so the compound could be lifted clear. You could also try a small round magnet glued on the end of a smaller dowel to stick in the hole to pull them out. By as I remember it didn't take all that long just wiggling the compound slide. Good luck. And tanks again. Jamie
