Those funny bits at the end and in between the review are the best thing ever. I was already a fan of this channel without the humor but now these videos are on another level. I actually laughed when you were talking about the sonic pad "or whatever they call it" 🤣🤣🤣🤣
You always have the best information and explanation about new printers. I always look forward to new videos. The SV07 seems like such a mis-step with its rubber wheels. It could have easily been so much better. On a side note, I keep thinking that 12 months from now the printers being offered are going to become much better as all of this competition grows. Yay!
Overtime I watch your videos I see how much love and attention that is put into each video. I truly appreciate hearing the input you provide to each review. At the end of the day i learn a lot from your reviews. I have been 3d printing for about 9 months now, I dont regret a single print since it has been a learning process.
Came here after assembling my newly purchased SV07 Plus and am grateful for the helpful tips, especially for getting moonraker set up and changing the date/time. It seems like Sovol took at least a little advice from this video, as the bed now has alignment screws that work great. Thanks for the helpful overview.
Another good review. For me the non standard nozzle is a no go. I have a $500 original Anycubic 4Max that is now just taking up space from lack of being able to find spare parts.
I wish they had kept the linear rod motion system from SV06. A step backwards and it would’ve differentiated it from Elegoo Neptune 4 and Biqu Hurakan.
Yes is very difficult to understand why they would make such a BAD decision, everyone praising the sovol sv06 with the Prusa clone style and they go with this unremarkable design that every company is using already. And if is more costy to produce, then just sell it for whatever the price you need to charge and people will buy it because the sovol sv06 already did the heavy lifting in terms on build confidence on the system (not to mention the original heavy lifting that Prusa already made before any sovol clone). Am I missing something?
@@joescalon541 They could’ve added a plastic bridge spanning where the x-axis is held up by the lead screws. It can be cheap plastic since the fan only needs to move with the gantry in Z direction. As it is, it’s more than $100 over the current price of the SV06 without $100 additional value. Better to DIY Klipper on a SV06 at that point and print something that allows you to mount a big fan or just put it on the side like Aurora did.
@@bru_haha I think the main issue is linear rod and bearing. With the quality of linear rods and bearing they delivered on SV06, 06 Plus, it won't do well on a faster speed printing if they don't switch to better supplier. The cheap bearing will make crazy among of noise during high speed printing and probably won't last long. Not necessary a step down for going back to t slot and wheels in my opinion, and make more sense for them from business perspective.
I hope Sovol implements all of Aurora Tech's suggestions to make an SV08. I'd also use a continuous flex rated four conductor CANbus cable to the print head instead of the 24 conductor ribbon cable. I wonder if it'd be possible to use sensorless homing on the Z axis to tram the gantry, probe the bed and set the Z offset. That would provide very precise control of all Z axis measurements without the cost or complexity of a touch sensor or inductive sensor.
Great Review. I just purchased a SV06 after watching your review. Sovol is making some good stuff. Thanks for the excellent reviews. I usually hear about new models and companies on your channel first. Thanks!
Those rubber rollers remind me of the first CR10 I bought 5 years ago, everything else on it though would have been an awesome upgrade to my CR10. Sorry about the flash symbol on your build plate😂!! Btw, when printing either of our unassembled pliers, you can print the upper arm with the hole up high, that way the both arms will have the same top layer finish on top when assembled and the supported layer will be hidden in the pivot area 👍 Great video as always!!
I don't know why these manufacturers just don't charge $3 more and just put a hardened nozzle in these machines. Even if someone doesn't need it. It won't hurt.
comment for algo. i like the tank test, also how your doing the same prints but on different printers. One thing i personally would like is a simple layer strength test. great job!
This seems like a great printer for the price, but I just feel like it is a step back from the SV06 overall. If they make an SV08 that combines the construction of the SV06 and the Klipper features of the SV07, that will be a dominant option!
This machine is not bad. I am aware of the complaints within the 3D printing community, and in the video, I address some of the causes and discuss the issues I encountered.
Thanks for the great review. I love my SV01. It's been a reliable no-drama work horse for the last two years, printing parts for my online business. I'm tempted by the Creality K1 or K1 Max. I love the speed that doesn't sacrifice print quality (much), the enclosure to print ABS, and the bed leveling by detecting the force of a heated nozzle pressed into a heated bed, but the K1 has a few inadequacies common to Creality printers. My cons are a weak problematic extruder (if the extruder isn't good a 3D printer isn't good) and ripping off the open source Klipper software, violating the open source licensing agreement (evil) and crippling it to make their own proprietary version (dumb). The Bambu printers are of no interest to me because they all but force me to send my designs through their Chinese cloud server. I think I'll wait to see if Sovol offers an enclosed Klipper/Fluidd core XY printer.
They just work the same, but I still like Fluidd more as I have another old PC with Klipper installed to control 6+ printers, I am more get used to the Fluidd menu and layout.
@@whiskeyinthejar24 - I've bought seven Qidi printers. I bought the concept of good features at a low price, not considering reliability and support. I have five Qidi Tech printers that had great specs, on paper. In practice, they broke all the time and the fully enclosed design that was good for ABS printing made them much more difficult for me to service. Even worse, a year later, Qidi came out with a newer FDM printer and stopped supporting my printers. Even worse, Qidi used proprietary parts so when they stopped selling them, I couldn't buy them anywhere. Qidi's devotion to proprietary parts was so extreme that they used industry standard stepper motor driver boards but soldered the header pins on the other side of the board to reverse the pinout to force me to buy these open source parts only from them... and then they stopped selling them. I have my Qidi printers in boxes, because I couldn't stand the idea of throwing $3000 worth of year old printers that were new or nearly new into the landfill, but that's the only future they have. One of them is brand new. It arrived with a broken timing belt and I was too busy working on the other Qidi Tech printers to fix the new broken printer. By contrast, I bought a Sovol SV01 to replace the Qidi printers. I paid $238 over two years ago. It's been a reliable workhorse. The design is simple. It's a basic bed slinger, using industry standard parts. It's been the sole printer for my online business. In the last two years, I replaced the hot end heater soon after getting the printer using a very inexpensive cartridge heater for an Ender. Other than that, I've cleared two clogged nozzles and I really can't blame the printer for that. I spent a lot of time printing parts and very little time maintaining or repairing the SV01 printer. That's the opposite of my Qidi experience.
They have them on sale right now for $269 so I decided to get one. I'm wondering if a y-axis linear rail kit for an ender 3 would work, going to look into it when I get it. The x-axis rollers should be ok for a bit but the bed just seems like it's eating up the wheels pretty badly in the video.
I just ordered one of these, not thrilled about the slightly different sized volcano extruder head, I was planning on going to a diamond head immediately
25:54 I think the center 100x100 area is where the auxilary part cooler is effective. 26:40 The LED lights on the top turn on as soon as you power on the screen (true they are not easily visible from the front) 27:14 I was able to find the IP address under Config → Network 30:17 It would have been even funnier if you kept reading the BSD message as if it was part of the script 😉
I had skipped over this review as I did think I needed to hear about a plastic printer with rollers, then I saw it came with Klipper. OK lets see what its about. My 7 Inch Screen just arrived and I am about to use my Pi 4B to load Klipper onto my 10s Pro. God Help Me! Couple of things i saw here were helpful. 1. Voxol PLA again you show this filament then i see its in California, has Fire Engine Red and is $16 a roll. Now that gets my attention. i used eryone Chinese Red until the price went from $14 to $26 a roll, Ouch. To see the roller Bed Slinger go to 250 mm/s was great. My goal on the 10s Pro. But I hear you on the rails/Rods instead, we can upgrade the 10s Pro to Rails. $$$ The PEI bed was interesting I stuck with the Garolite for now, clean it with Alcohol it works well. I see the tuning process is tedious and critical. It is still a Hobby machine. Then you want to add Rods, to reach $400 while the K1 is $600 makes you think we are the limits of Bed Slingers. And the Hot end but no harden steel tip seems wrong. I used CF filaments for several key parts but finding PLA+ is pretty strong may become a none issue. Very good review, loaded with lessons learned and informed opinions that are valuable to us all. Thank You and Your Brother and Parents for supporting such a wonderful site for good solid 3D Printing information every time. A most valued 3D Print site, look for to all the videos and i learned here today do not judge the view by the title. All my best, Dennis
This review: It must have hurt Sovol to hear your cons section but your detailed criticism, e.g. filament spool not being retarded should really help them advance their understanding of a quality product. For that knowledge, Sovol should really thank you. As for your bloopers, keep them coming.
Hello, very good review , i think the neptune 4 pro it's better and cheaper for $299 , i think the competition of these kind of printers for now are Kobra 2 , Sovol 07 and Neptune that 4 will wait for your review. I also noticed that the Dragon was made in 7 hours on K1 and only 5:53 hours on this one, why ?
Nice review! The solid spacer botls actually too short, it is not even able to reach nylon insert in the locknuts, it will fail off after some prints. The longer bolts with spring leveling nut set up will works. The end of the video is funny lol.
We have seen enough of these new budget high speed printers (I would include the non klipper Kobra 2) to warrant a comparison video. It seems the biggest improvement comes from the extra fans rather than klipper. You might want to review the additional Creality 3 fan kit as well.
"It seems the biggest improvement comes from the extra fans rather than klipper." I don't think that's true. You don't get from 150mm/s to 250mm/s without a serious drop in quality, OR input shaping.
Sovol themselves found out that not having bed knobs on SV06/SV06 Plus is a bad idea as well as 4 weak x/y-axis rods that can bend easily, so they return back to copy the Creality Ender series literally, that to know how well done Ender 3 series was designed.
I love your reviews, the in depth level you bring to it is so helpful. Are you going to do the Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro at any point? I didn't see it in your list, and I'm torn between that and the Sovol 7. The rubber wheels on a high speed printer kind of turn me off, they wear enough at 50 mm/sec that 250 is not going to be pretty, I think.
Hi Aurora, I'm a subscriber to the channel and I want to congratulate you on your excellent work. My name is Jorge, I'm from Brazil. I have a recently purchased SV 07 Plus, I did some tests and it was working normally, today I tried to turn it on and it didn't work. I looked at the fuse, and tested the power, everything seems fine. Have you or anyone here experienced a similar problem, can you help me?
20:54 seconds... cubed? wow! that is SOME acceleration.... ☺ edit: (watching further) you have no idea how much info a screen full of hardware info, machine names and MAC addresses can reveal... If I would be you, I would mask that, or not show it at all...
Hey! I really appreciate your work. =) Can you suggest me which is the best option? in the same price range I would choose the Flsun SR or the Sovol-sv07
after having an sv04 and dealing with the part availability, it's a no for me. Support has not been great, and having to consider hotend and extruder swaps to correct availability and support issues sucks.
Hello, would you be willing to share the print settings you used. I cannot find a version of Cura that has a sv07 selection available on the add non-networked printer dropdown list.
Great info and you are dynamite girl! So to the point! A question, i am new to 3d printing.. during the z calibration I can’t seem to pinch the paper, the distance is too high and while using the knobs under the springs the whole bed is getting unbalanced and me frustrated.. would you or anyone have any tips?
Hello, I have a question, I keep getting a error message move out of range? I tried a few different options from reddit. Some things print. This happened after I moved the SV07 to a different table. Thanks Bryan.
I noticed that in some previous videos you were able to modify firmware .bin files ??? Can you please explain what software you used to recreate .bin file to rebuild the firmware. Also Is there a way to modify an existing .bin firmware. - I have a problem with a stupid PartPro 300xT from XYZ PRINTING - need to disable the requirement for my machines firmware that requires NFC a chipped filament rolls from XYZ…so I can use any generic filament …
You need the source code of the firmware to build the bin file. If their intention is to make you buy their overpriced filament, I am not sure they will release the source code for you to modify it. Personally, I wouldn't buy machines with a closed filament system. Not only do I have to pay 2-3 times more for each roll, but the worst part is that if the company goes out of business, your machine will become a piece of junk. My advice is to simply sell your printer on eBay at any price while the company is still in business and buy a normal printer with an open filament system. This will allow you to enjoy the market price range of $12-$18 per kilogram roll of filament.
I've had the printer for a while, but I haven't had time to open it yet because my schedule is full this year. I've scheduled it for early next year. I didn't see much difference from the SV07; it's most likely a pumped-up version.
Well actually they can use even carbon teflon covered ultra cosmic rails. Already for that price I would just add and buy Creality K1. Klipper pad looks interesting though. But they cost too much for some unknown reason. No manufacturer think of just using some mobile phone as a base for screen? For now it is cheaper to buy a used notebook.
No manufacturer think of just using some mobile phone as a base for screen? Blu View 2 $30 phone will run Octo4a to give you full wireless Octoprint, just not camera on the phone, though may in the future as they keep making improvements...
@@brianmi40 does the phone function solely as screen or can a phone be used to replace both raspberry and screen? I haven't been able to find resources on that
I got a Sovol SV06. Not a bad printer, but I would avoid the Sovol brand altogether. It is literally impossible to get them to answer any request or honour any warranty on their products. You are on your own if something goes wrong with the printer.
I would have paid an extra $100 for a setup like sv06...my aux fan comes on automatically and it is mislabeled in klipper screen. it is being called the extruder part fan :(
@@petercallison5765The consequence of competition is that comparable products are always priced similarly. However, it's worth noting that a price twice as high often results in a better machine, obviously. Besides the firmware, the SV07 and K1 have nothing in common. No matter where you look, everything is different. Even the kinematics are different: one is an open Cartesian printer with a horizontally moving heated bed, while the other is a closed CoreXY printer with a vertically moving heated bed. If your point was valid, would you consider comparing a $300 SV07 and an industrial Stratasys printer at $50,000? Nevertheless, I assure you that the latter is worth its price!
@@axelSixtySix "The consequence of competition is that comparable products are always priced similarly." Not necessarily so. When the SV-06 came out, it was immediately, and still is, validly compared to a Prusa MK3S+, which, still a kit, is still over twice the price of an SV-06. Comparable products, nowhere comparable pricing. The point of comparing products, even those at wide price points, is to see the relative value per $ spent. The 07 offers arguably the best mid-point of printing speed between cheap bed slingers and the K1, possibly the fastest bed slinger available.
@@brianmi40 Oh, let's have a friendly chat about the intriguing world of 3D printers! You know, sometimes it's like a magic show out there, with machines trying to impress us at different price points. But don't be fooled by appearances! The SV-06 might try to put on a show, but it can't quite reach the level of Prusa's quality. Those production cost savings have their consequences, you see. Now, I must say, there's been quite a buzz lately among SV-06 owners. Some of them have been reporting cracks on their injection-molded parts, and even the planetary extruder gears seem to be pulling a disappearing act a little too soon! I mean, nobody likes vanishing gears! It seems Sovol opted for the lowest quality bearings, and you know what that means - they're not built to last. When those bearings start to give in, and the injection-molded parts join the escape party, users find themselves in a bit of a pickle when it's time for replacements. It's like a 3D printer's drama! Ah, but let me tell you about our print farm stars, the MK3S+ and Mini+! These champs have been printing non-stop, effortlessly surpassing 50,000 hours without a hiccup. They're like the reliable companions we can always count on. On the other hand, our SV01 machines had a bit of an adventure within just 8,000 hours. New motherboards, extruders, bearings, and wheels were in the mix. Those wheels even demand a proactive change every 4,000 hours! Quite the drama queens, I must say. But we figured out a secret recipe to save the day! Swapping out those bargain-bin bearings for quality ones direct from the manufacturer did wonders. They've been holding up like champs ever since! But quality comes at a price, you know. Those top-notch bearings cost more than 10% of the entry-level Sovol's resell price. So, there you have it. No magic tricks or miracles in this story. Cheap machines simply can't tango with the expensive ones when it comes to quality components. It's like comparing apples to oranges - both are delicious, but you know which one has that extra sparkle! 😉🍎🍊
@@axelSixtySix "Oh, let's have a friendly chat about the intriguing world of 3D printers!" Yes, let's do. Let's start with PRICE: - cheapest price from the manufacturer (i.e. not 3rd party) that you can pay for an MK3S+: $649 - cheapest price from the manufacturer (i.e. not 3rd party) that you can pay for an SV-06: $209 Let's think about what that means for just a second. You can buy THREE SV-06s and STILL have money left over. THREE. "Now, I must say, there's been quite a buzz lately among SV-06 owners. Some of them have been reporting cracks on their injection-molded parts" It's always good to provide links to sources behind claims you make, that way we know it's not just one guy who dropped his printer out of the box. How many is "some"? and SOURCE LINK? "even the planetary extruder gears seem to be pulling a disappearing act a little too soon!" DITTO on source please. I searched REDDIT for BOTH your claims and found NOTHING. "But we figured out a secret recipe to save the day! Swapping out those bargain-bin bearings for quality ones direct from the manufacturer did wonders. They've been holding up like champs ever since! But quality comes at a price, you know. Those top-notch bearings cost more than 10% of the entry-level Sovol's resell price." Good to hear, because at even $8 each from McMaster-Carr, I can buy TWO SV-06s, have money for 10 new shiny bearings for EACH PRINTER, install them in WAY LESS EFFORT than an 8 hour MK3S+ ASSEMBLY, and STILL POCKET MONEY. "On the other hand, our SV01 machines had a bit of an adventure within just 8,000 hours." We're talking about the SV-06, try and stay on topic. "So, there you have it. No magic tricks or miracles in this story." Yes, yes we do have it: You can buy TWO SV-06s, purchase premium replacement bearings for BOTH, assemble them BOTH with the new bearings in less time than a single MK3S+ assembly of 8 hours, and STILL POCKET MONEY.
The firmware limited the bed to 130C, when it heats up to around 115C, an error message will show up, and a restart is required. However, 110C seems fine.
I have never seen a proper video comparing those systems, just opinions based on nothing. I have never had to replace the rubber wheels so for hobbyists wear may not be an issue. If you can't adjust eccentric nuts you probably in the wrong activity.
Yes, you don't need ABL to run with the Sonicpad. I just replaced the stock springs with some stiff silicone spacers. It works just fine, even though I didn't relevel it for a few months.
@@AuroraTech Hi would it be possible for you two to do a tutorial video on this? Eg how to get the z adjustment/levelling done etc. with the Sonic Pad? Thanks.
@@brianmi40 Stop the clip at 22:08. Look at the top half of the screen and lower your gaze. There is a red wire and a thick black wire under it. It descends from the top and ascends again in a U-shape. It appears to be rubbing against something until the brown wire is visible from the inside
@@jta1436 Understood now. That's abrading, not corrosion. Corrosion is a chemical process, not caused by friction. She needs to see if this can be pulled up to stop the wear.
This brand reminds me of Anycubic, the way they advertising ... Speed of 500mm/s , recommended 250mm/s, actual 80mm/s! Even 250mm/s is a joke with this old design machine, specially with the rubber wheels.
Aurora, Do you ever give any of these away to someone wanting to get into 3d printing? Just curious I would imagine you have a lot of them sent to you that just dont make it to a space in your lab. Always look forward to your opinion on new tech. Let me know. thx
You shouldn't have to pay $30 extra just to get some linear rods. For $340 it should already be included. I'm never paying premium for a Klipper bed-slinger with v-rollers because they simply get pulverized at those speeds. My guess is this printer will be down to $250 in about 4 months.
How long are we going to give a pass to the manufacturers for inventing maximum speeds? There are laws in the US about false advertising, so don't they apply here too? What if your Toyota Corolla was advertised as having a speed of 250mph, which is hardly usable compared to a fast printer, would you still feel ok about it?
Advertising a max speed that it can deliver, but print crappy at, is not false advertising unfortunately. These machines can MOVE that fast which meets the letter of the law.