You cannot measure armature resistance and get a sensible reading with that type of meter, it will look like a short circuit because the resistanc is very low. Also, if there is a shorted turn on one of the windings, that will not be detectable either. There is a way to test this - use 6v A.C. and measure the current of each winding pair by connecting across opposite copper strips on the commutator, a similar level of current should be observed with each measurement. A shorted turn will show as higher current or an open circuit will show zero current. As well as cleaning the commutator, each gap between copper strips should be cleared of debris as well. Ensure that there is no connection between the commutator and the armature body. Hope this helps.
Generally handy men is good with idea of tune-up. Just few recomendations from my experience. Never ever use files for commutators at home. Just sand paper different grit 100, 200, 400. Turning by power drill good but must be at higher rpm. Carbon residues from the grooves could be cleaned with utility knife. Also woud be better to blow off all armature from dust with compressed air, if possible.
hi handsome. you me laugh. thanks. I have a 2014 kobalt km210 electric lawn mower, and this is exactly what I need to do to mine. I found it on the side of the road,free. I removed the cover and the carbon was full of metal debris, so I used a wire brush and got the spring to retract and the carbon has 80% left , one side chiped off as I was cleaning it. I examined the copper and it needs cleaning, I thought and said to myself, I know who can teach me , someone from India. I searched for carbon brushes and here you are. I'm happy your here . thank you.
Its not shorting, the beeping is a good thing, its showing there is no dead bars on the commutator. The best thing to do is to check resistance and have it checked on a growler tester.
@@gwrong86 depends on the amount of damage... I generally use 400 grit, then finish it with 800-1200 so it’s super smooth. Always blow it off and clean between the commutator bars to remove any conducive debris, which will cause sparking or a short between the adjacent bars...
you could also use a wire brush head on the end of a drill that spins great for taking rust off very small one else if its fanning out to far wrap it in duct tape to pull the brushes inwards for more controlled direction.
So thanks for the comments. I saw it and was curious why is he using a file on something that looks delicate and has tight separation yet he is introducing copper dust and particles into the spaces. LOL
Should have checked functionality before doing any work on armature. Also when using file, you should have it set to cut against the rotation of armature (files are made to cut when pushed away from handle} and use a machinist file (about 1 inch wide) to help make armature flat and even. It was a good idea start with though.
@@themaestroofrandom it's not short, just low resistance. Motor windings has very low resistance, just measure resistance (not continuity test) and if it's around 1 ohm everything ok.
@@themaestroofrandom Yes, check to see if you have a short between the motor itself and the housing. Most common is a missing non-conductive (plastic, felt or otherwise) bushing between the motor and housing. GG. Hope that helps. :)
@@themaestroofrandom Sparking is what is eating the brushes, as well as leaving the burnt remains. As for what is causing the sparking, I don't know. But I guess could be wrong brush material. I do have a bosch motor sparking with worn original brush currently. The bosch brush is expensive could be because it has two type of materials on it: the non-sparking bit and the the sparking bit to warn of wear. The cheap brushes could be made entirely from the material intended for wear warning. I just made this stuff up and this seems like a plausible engineering design. I would design it this way if I was doing it. The cheap brushes are probably made by the chinese who have no idea what they are doing.
Hi Mark thank you very much for getting back to me Finally someone who actually knows what he's doing any chance to hook up on Facebook. I would have some questions and some ideas I would like to share with you I checked out that machine you recommended I didn't even know that this is existing so I learnt a lot from you and I would like to continue. thank you very much. My what's app in +447950 542472
@@themaestroofrandom Mark is correct, there are three different resistance tests that can be carried out on the armature. Loads of good videos on youtube will show you the correct procedure. Good luck.
Using this method is bad. You are putting scratches in the copper connections which needs to smooth for the brushes to make greater contact to operate properly. It will also wear the brushes unevenly. You can remove the dark markings from the copper where the brush makes contact simply using a eraser from a pencil.
@@themaestroofrandom It’s best to use sand paper, coarseness depends on the amount of damage... I generally use 400 grit, then finish it with 800-1200 so it’s super smooth. Always blow it off and clean between the commutator bars to remove any conducive debris, which will cause sparking or a short between the adjacent bars... Also, it wasn’t a bad motor, you simply didn’t check the omh resistance properly... The original poster was referring to carbon being able to be removed with an eraser, ur caddy reply was unnecessary.
i think it's not shorted, it beeps normally if your in buzzer mode. you must check for resistance value near to an ohm. you might as well check if it is high amps when it runs,refer to the output specs of the unit.
I thought so too. If one or two of the commutator bars beeps yes, but not all perhaps an analog meter would be ideal I guess. This video helped me a lot as my sander carbon brushes broke inside and damaged the commutator. It has small raised commutator bars and am wondering if the brushes will wear off ... thanks for the upload.
You need to put your armature on a lathe and machine the commutator. You will never get rid of the sparking this way (by looking at your brushes), you probably ruined your armature now unless you try and machine it to get rid of the file gouges. Do not do this people you will ruin your armature . You armature is probably fine , your commutator just needs to be machined / polished even. If anything try putting new brushes in. won't completely solve your problem but will probably get you through a job.
Great video. & Sir I most definitely agree with the comments about the "Mayor" 😆! IDK what state your in, but I tell you one thing.. in 2023 I think all sides from far left to the far right & even the "extreme middle" can all agree on these politicians being out of touch with reality! But from a Man of the working class while maintaining a family & a stubborn truck.. I appreciate this video my brother from another mother! 🤝 P. S I also agree with one of the comments down below.. being "if your in buzzer mode u will get those beeps & to check for resistance near the OHM as well high amps when it runs. But if possible try using a 6V AC! Defeat the issue & never let these things beat you! I hope the comment section *(as I'm sure this man fixed his issue 2 years ago lol)* as well as the video helps everyone with this problem F. Y. Pretty much dropping this comment altogether to support your channel & the algorithm. Best of luck & God bless you AND everyone who reads this, on ALL of future endeavors 💯 ✌️
@@themaestroofrandom there is a pause function on most phone cameras. make videos as concise as possible this is a video that should be two 5 second clips
Try take the Armature out and test it with multimeter for continuity and you will be able to see where the spark is and then you can fix. Sometimes the wires melted where they connect to the copper commutator bars..
Minute 08:10 . . . don't blow up with your breath, unless you wear goggles, otherwise some copper or carbon particles can get your eyes . . . or, as a minimum protection when not wearing goggles, close your eyes when blowing . . . for your safety . . . Good job in any case, i have a couple of rotors to treat as you explain in your video . . . thank you very much ! Best regards. Alessandro ( Italy )
Such technique maybe good but most of thebtime when burning brush with high ligh often times the amature is grounded and shorted. I have done many times in my own power tools, replacing the amateur is still the ultimate solution if testing the stator is good
Not only is the commutator scored, but you are using horrible brushes, if you search, how to wear in carbon brushes, the first result shows what brushes are good or bad
I have the same problem with anglegrinder I just bought in a pawnshop. Why does it eat so many brushes, why is it so hungry? I just read somewhere that man 3 reasons are 1. Inadequate Spring 2. Pressure, Poor Commutator or Ring Condition or 3. Brush Holders are Unequally Spaced or Out-of-Neutral. I guess now I have to disassemble it and try to eliminate these possible faults.
Thank you very much for sharing this information because I have three items with exactly the same problem and I am getting absolutely bananas. I really would appreciate if you would share how you getting on. I'm completely frustrated and I cannot find a solution
@@jeffgriffiths5945 changing bearing could solve problem have experience it? I have same sparking issue with my drill Machine i had clean armature , change brush and finally change field core but problem not solve it's sparking continue.... And heating without load in Just 30 secondly continue full speed Changing bearing will solve problem?
Thank you I feel 1 step closer to understanding the sparking motor I have. Also it helped that it was a bad motor all the other videos worked after cleaning up and parts changed. You told me what a burnt up motor looks like and why it's no good. Thank you very much.
this means next time before you go through the whole profess of setting up your armature and clean it, you would be checking if there are short or other wise open circuit anywhere first. Right? :-)
