Picasso produces another masterpiece. Nice mounting fixture you made for holding the cutter!! I like the step over each round insert has. Excellent engineering work on the cutter.
Your videos have made an impact on my machining, and my life. Thank You for taking your time to create these master pieces.. Anyone that is in the machining world, will understand the infinte amount of fine detail and highly skilled trade that we have been blessed to become a part of. Creation is key
Just absolutely breathtaking. A true inspiration to someone like myself who is always keen on learning more about machining. Sending positive vibes from NYC!!!
Amazing video as always. Great comments. Funny is that our cat really like soft speaking voices and your videos are perfect! She is usually fast asleep within 10 min. or so. So, you are valued by both human and pet!
This stuff is absolutely incredible. Don’t get me wrong, I love my little Bridgeport and Monarch, but it’s amazing the profiles and shapes that are possible with a machine like this. Also, I really appreciate the explanation and knowledge you share. Means a lot to a hobby/newer “machinist” like myself. Keep up the great work! New subscriber for sure!
i did some machining in the navy and worked for day &NIGHT HEATING AND AIR AS A MECHANIC MAINTAINING SEAM WELDERS AND PUNCH PRESSES AND PRES BREAKS FOR 8 YEARS I RETIRED AFTER 21 YEARS WORKING FOE A LIMESTONE QUARY
You do amazing work Peter, and you are really good at explaining what you want to do, and the process to get there. Being a one-man operation you have some very interesting projects, and you probably get these because people know that you are good at what you do. I also think your Mazak is an amazing machine. It is definitively a lathe, but it is a mill as well. Like some of those manual lathes with a milling post. Cool stuff, and keep it up. From Norway: Thanks.
Peter, thanks for the really nice videos. I am always amazed at what you can make these cool machines do. Sure makes my CNC'd J-head Bridgeport seem like a stone age ax. Craig
Add an ND filter to your hero6 it will fix a lot of the blowout, and add a little extra protection as well. A polarising filter would reduce reflections too.
In the previous video there is a picture in a picture that shows the parts. It shows the surface it leaves. Remember this is a roughing tool so it leaves a scallop surface.
Beautiful result. This is probably a stupid question, but if you don't ask, you don't learn! Why are the inserts on a spiral pattern around the cutter body?
The cut width is .915 wide. The inserts are 10 mm in diameter. In order to cut that width the inserts have to be staggered. The cutter has 8 inserts but is really a two flute cutter.
I'm not a pro but I'd also like to add that this also makes the cut per tooth less work on each tooth per revolution.. kinda like offset teeth on all types of saw blades.
Daniel Gilbert I think what he is referring to is the profile shape of each tooth. What you are referring to is the set of the teeth on a saw to make the kerf wider than the back of the blade. I have bought table saw blades where one tooth cuts to one side the next tooth cuts in the middle and the next to the other side. This is similar to what this cutter is doing. There are two inserts that cut toward the end face. The next two cut half way up in the middle. The next set half more. The last set cut at the upper face toward the shank. So 8 inserts in two sets of 4. Or two spiral flutes with 4 inserts each.
Daniel Gilbert no....... no.. no.. think about it... take look at a circular saw blade... every tooth is offset.. 1 , 2, 3, over and over so that when you feed in the material the next tooth doesn't have to do so much work... I'm not saying he designed the tool this way for that reason but as a resolute his tool/machine absolutely benefits. The more teeth on your cutter the more horse power your machine needs to complete a revolution.
Daniel Gilbert ... wow great job... you don't feel comfortable talking about something so you "lol" it off? It is what it is... there's not a lot of factors....
for the threading you could put a can full of oil in the machine and everytime you want to tap just dip the tool in the can and there is new oil on it :)
What if you had to tap holes in the horizontal mode? I have used a wire brush to remove shavings off a tool. Just stop the spindle bury it in the brush reverse at slow speed while reversing the spindle. I have also thought but never tried it. To change to a tool with a Allen wrench and use it to remove screws and move them in a fixture. But like I say I haven’t tried this.
Nice tool Peter, what material is it, please? In the Hurco machines you can get a software-option where many different seats for inserts can be made, both milling and turning tools, really clever thought.
Great video! I'm really enjoying your work. If you're only using one camera to get all those angles, then my hat's off to you! That's a ton of video editing to achieve your style!!!! I'm in love with this machine! Thanks!!!!
Thanks bluehandsvideo; Yes there is just one camera. I means I have to stop move the camera and start the program a lot. Fortunately on a CNC machine this inst to difficult to do with the single block function key.
Dang! I know exactly how much work that is! Way more than I've been willing to do! LOL I'm only running mach3 and I don't trust the feed hold at all on it!! Since you're doing multiples of the same part, you can run each part with a different camera position and then do all the work on the computer. But.....knowing just how much grief and time are involved in the editing end of these vids, sometimes it's a lot easier to get shorter clips that are more specific and then splice them. I'll end up letting my camera run for the duration or until I know I've gotten the final tool paths. It can take quite awhile to whittle 2+hrs of vid down to 10min. lol Thank you for the time/effort you're putting into your vids! :)
I know you just made that beautiful enclosure for your GoPro but you should check out the Sony RX0. It's about the same size as a GoPro but it has a vastly superior sensor in it. I have a RX0 that I've played with a lot and I think if they make a mk2, it could be really amazing.
The material is heat treated. It just not real hard. Probably around 43rc. The existing cutters have machined thousands of parts no problem. Heat treating to a harder state really isn’t necessary.
I really enjoy watching your videos, thanks for sharing! Since the GoPro cameras really don't do a good job with the high frame rates could you please skip the slow motion parts? It might just be me but I find myself loosing interest when there is a "blurry" slowmo clip.
If you rewatch the previous video. In a spot I show a picture in a picture in the upper right of the video. Those are the parts I rough with these cutters.
You did indeed I missed it the first time. Great videos. You do a lot of interesting stuff that I don't see elsewhere on youtube. Also that machine of yours is very cool.
At around 7:00, the shot seems underexposed because there is a bright pattern at the left, which messes the camera metering. You can either switch to spot/center metering (if available) or find a way to darken that side. The GoPro tends to focus in the center, so the shot should be framed such that the background does not sit right at the center. For the "high-speed" shots either there isn't enough lighting or the lights are pulsating. Thank you for the videos and the R&D topics.
as for the lighting.. Abom got a ring lamp from somebody for his vertical mill.. fits in an existing hole. i wonder if a battery powered LED ring lamp could be fastened to your spindle face.. perhaps with different rows of Leds aimed in different directions.. with the switch ability to change the lighting pattern.. heck might be able to fab that up in plastic.. right in your own shop.. one thing.. you would need to test several LED colors.. to come out with an assortment that create normal white full spectrum light.. so its not such a single spectrum of light.. i realize this video is several months old..
There is a up coming job out of Inconel 718 150 ksi (very tough material to machine) that is rather complicated. Not a real large part (about 4" dia. stock x 19.5 long) but its somewhat involved as far as milling/turning goes. There are seven parts to make.
When you were talking about the GoPro6 focusing, it looks like it's focusing on the background, not on the tool and work. This would make the work look terrible. At least this is what it looks like to me ... great video :o)
Thanks Paulster2; Yes I wish there was more control over the focusing options (Maybe there is and I haven't learned how). It would be nice in their GoPro app on the I-Pad to be able to touch the screen where you want the focus point. Something like some of the new cameras do with their touch screens.
Thanks userwl2850. These cutters were machined from commercial heat treated 4340 steel. That would make the hardness around 34-38 Rc. The first cutters I also made out of the same material and they have held up real well.
Kind of late to the gate on this, but are you worried at all about re-cutting chips on the finish pass of the tooth profile? Is there a particular reason you do this opp on the top of the part as opposed to the side or bottom which would allow the chips to fall away? Thanks!
The reason I machine on the top of the part is the machine has no travel range in the X minus direction. It's max travel in X minus is -10 MM. So all machining milling and turning has to be on the plus side in X. As far as re-cutting the shavings, because I was making a video there is no coolant for better video. Normally there would be coolant flushing away the shavings.
Peter, do you ever think about getting an additional Mazak? You could program one while the other is working. I know you are very well off, and you don't need the money, just wondered if you have ever considered it. Thanks!
Love watching your videos. One question. When roughing out the insert pocket, why not use a larger endmill and plunge it to get the majority of the material out, rather than wearing out the tips of 3/16" endmills?
Thanks Chad! The endmill is actually roughing the angle in steps on the insert pocket walls. That way the special endmill that finishes the tapered walls has less load on it. Plunging a end mill straight into something usually doesn’t work very well. But if I ground a form tool that could work. I usually try not to use any more special tooling than absolutely necessary.
To provide clearance for the face of the milling spindle in relation to the chuck. I have made different cutters that required topping the spindle toward the chuck. Without this arbor that projects the work out away that wouldn’t be possible.
Nice work Peter. Is this cutter your design? If so did you design it based on the available insert or the type of milling operation needed for the job?
I should have known why else would you make a cutter if one was commercially available considering the work that you are doing. Good stuff Peter, I hope you are considering setting up Patreon account or maybe some kind of swag you really are doing a good job and I'm sure many would be willing to support your efforts.
Edge Precision Yes I think people would. You could offer the videos sooner to your patreons. Some don't really offer anything extra and people will contribute based on what your already doing.
Thank You Alyson Grassi; I don't know if you saw the first video about these cutters. In that video I say what material there made of. The material is already heat treated before machining. It is 4340 commercial heat treat. That would make it 34-38 Rc hardness range.
the tool looks like a brand name tool , great result . Will you put black oxide or some protective layer against corrosion ? . On a side note , i would like to see some heavy machining sometimes , i know that machine can handle at least a 6mm radial depth of cut (turning).
Awesome video edge. Looks like fun making your own Cutters! How much do you offset the insert screw hole to pull the insert into the pocket? Do you prefer 4340 ph to 4140 ph for cutter bodies or is it more available in your region?
In the case of these insert pockets the inserts being round the screws aren’t offset. With the tapered sides of the insert pockets surround more than 180 degrees of the insert. It hasn’t been necessary to put the holes off center.
I did make a video showing these cutters in use. It was the one and only video one of my customers asked me to take down. They were concerned that their competition would see it.
Instead of using the ball nose end mill for profiling, why not run a regular endmill sideways with simultaneous rotation? Wouldn't that be a lot faster?
I'm actually cutting the radius on both ends and the flat in the middle to a angle. Only a form tool from the end could do that (I could grind such a tool on my grinder). Or a front and back corner rounder and a endmill.
