Great video, Dom. I'm a professional painter, and I (*gasp*) do not use an airbrush. I prefer my WW2 models to appear 'lived in', and the airbrush leads to what is to me a look that is too neat and tidy. Now crews of some of the later German Armour would sometimes use their air compressors to spray camo on their vehicles, this was less than common, and the broom and mop method was fairly common. US Army crews would even 'paint' mud on their Shermans in the field. A tip regarding the tracks, they often had a fair amount of rust on them, so I tend to paint them with Citadel Gore Grunta Fur red-brown contrast paint, then add mud/dust and drybrush lightly with steel or charcoal.
Hi Dom find putting the decals on the model prior to washing and dry brushing takes the harshness out of them and makes them more natural looking. Just a thought
Great video clearly showing how to get a good looking tank on the table. I've mucked about with loads of techniques over the years and what I now do is very similar to you. Nicely done Dom.
thanks Lexi - i have been adding some stowage on my tanks, there is a couple on this one although there isnt much room for it. I like the idea of foliage but can never find anything that looks realistic - do you have any suggestions?
@@BootsontheTableI think there are a few things, something like rubberized horse hair ( just search for that term and I doubt it is actually horse hair anymore) and other stuff which looks like it has leaves on it which breaks up when stretched which looks pretty good when sealed with glue.
Really nice results, you don't need to paint like a 1:35 scale model for it to still look great! I think it could look even better next time if you put the decals on before weathering and add some orangey brown paint to the spare tracks, exhaust, and muffler (the cylinder on the back) to show rust!
