Spider Nut For Grizzly G0602 Lathe Part 1 

So its a family thing...Awsome! Good to hear the youngsters are interested in metal work, and that they watch all of the videos here on RU-vid. Tell them Abom says HI! Glad you guys enjoy Matthew!

Thanks Stevo!

Disk brake would work but you don't need one. You can use a leather belt and cam arrangement. Simpler and cheaper. In theory if your lathe allows it you could even make it a foot brake. I can't point out the brand of the lathe i saw using this system and i believe it was a diy thing but it was a medium sized lathe with a leather brake. It's smooth, quiet and best part is whenever the leather belt gets worn up, you just slide it to a fresh part. IMO since i work quite a bit with disk brakes is that a disk brake is a temperamental thing that works perfect for the first times you use it but when it gets worn, unless you really know what you're doing it's gonna give you white hairs. Just my 2 cents, of course :) And yeah, the paper between gears is probably the best method. The person who taught me to operate a lathe gave me the same trick since initially i used to stick them a bit too tight (the noise that machine made, like wailing babies).

I've used that trick before, but sometimes I gage it by sight and feel. Thanks Stephen.

I like that idea of a leather belt, thanks very much for the idea.

I think sometimes I get busy with what I'm doing and forget to mention everything. But i did touch on the subject, notice I was telling you my speeds, and mention " see, it aint that hard"! LOL Glad you enjoyed Chuck!

The big thing I was always told to do to prevent work hardening was.. Don't let the tool dwell. Keep it cutting or get it out of there.

Dustin Layne The main thing is to keep your cutting speed *slow*, and keep things cool. Not having your tool rubbing on the surface is a big part of that... Also, billet or bar stock is much less work hardened at the rolling mill when contrasted to strap, sheet, and angle. I've been working with 316L Unistrut (10 gauge, roll-formed = work hardened) and 1/4" thick strip stock at work, where I do not have access to a milling machine. The lab where we are sub-letting space does have decent drill press, but it won't go slower than 450 rpm, and I don't have the freedom to wire in a VFD. 3/4" diameter = 0.2 ft perimeter = ~90 ft/min at 450 rpm > ~50 ft/min = a bit too fast... I've busted more 5/8" & 3/4" drillbits (1 of each!) than I have ever broken before when they seize up as they break through the thin material, work hardened from rolling, despite my liberal use of flood cooling, . (after some trial and error, I found that liberal use of water from a cheap garden sprayer works best in this case) One major problem is that the drillbit expands more than the stock, and wedges into the hole *after* going all the way through. When the bit releases, some of the corner and side grind of the fluting chips off. Anywho, when you have the right tools, and good stock which has not been work hardened before you get to it, you can set your speed to feed right, and most stainless and nickel alloy steel will cut well. When you get stuck in a workshop which is not a full up machine shop, you can get a bit frustrated...

Thanks Herb, get to practicing!

I know theres other ways around it, but the way I'm showing you is how I do the process on my machines. It's what I'm used to. Thanks Paul.

Abom79 Sorry Adam, I didn't word my comment quit right. I use pretty much the same technique you do and my coment was aimed more at other viewers. Many people have formed the impression that it's impossible to release the half nuts, just like some people think that it's impossible to cut threads without angling the compound.

Its been proven that import quality isnt always so good. We've all seen it. They care more about production than quality. Thanks Dave.

I used to have iEngineer, but rarely looked at it. I still have all the cool apps, just havn't put them all on my new phone. The iMachinist is perfect for figuring out those bore sizes for large and odd sizes. Thanks Colin!

Geez, I have an app for almost everything I'm too lazy to figure out... geometry, trig, aggregate, etc.... :-)

Only the 90s?

Lots of good stuff was collected over the years, and I managed to keep most of it. I've got a plastic bin behind the mill full of metric taps. Lemme know if you to borrow that 40mm tap, I even have two! The round thread turned out nice for what it is. I didn't feel like grinding the tool so I put the files to use. Always a pleasure to hear from you Tom. Thanks.

Running a threaded chuck in reverse is too risky for my taste. The drank is a good idea. Still I need to get the gears right first.

Theres many choices to be had, it all depends on your budget and whats availible to you. The Victor is a good lathe, you just dont see or hear about them much. I've heard good things about Kingston lathes too. But also look for LaBlond, Monarch, and American. Theres lots of good lathes out there to buy, you just have to find them. Even some of the "newer" import lathes arent bad.

It's a belt drive. The motor is housed near the bottom of the machine and the belts drive the spindle.

thanx. so the gears pretty much drive the carriage and lead screw. not ever seen a lathe in person, only watching your channel. i admire your work and so wish i knew some one that had one or a mill so i could play around

It is worth buying a copy - I have a 24th edition - I'm not a machinist, but I do machining ... it has been a useful book to have. I designed a machine to check curve radius on heritage railways in Oz, and it uses one of the Geometric formula. It takes the increase or decrease of the outer dimension of the Gauge (using a string potentiometer), compares it to the draw bar length. then does a ratio (it uses a Raspberry Pi) and gives the radius in chains and metres. This machine does a lot more than that; it replaces a $2 million machine, with a cost less than $10,000.

Hardinge 2J

That's a shame

Thanks for the response. it is a shame. Saddest thing is this G0602 was a replacement for a defective G0768. They were going to send me another G0768, but I demanded that it be fully inspected before sent. It failed inspection, so they up graded to the G0602. It has good bones, and can be decent for the cost, but it is not worth the work. I should have saved my money and bought one with a rep. 3 bad Grizzly's in a row.....coincidence? Love the vids, keep it up. Thanks.

Toby W it's a lot harder to cut left to right on a lathe don know why but it's just not natural

It occurred to me this morning that cutting to the right without a tailstock would tend to pull the work out of the chuck.