Pricing just in!! Here you go!! 20g NPT Basket Only - $300 (Basket +single NPT fitting on top of basket) 20g TC Basket Only - $325 (Basket +single TC fitting on top of basket) 20g NPT Full System - $1,775 (Kettle, Basket, Controller, Pump and Hardware. Chiller optional) 20g TC Full System - $1,975 (Kettle, Basket, Controller, Pump and Hardware. Chiller optional)
Thanks for the demo Brian, as always your unbiased opinion is appreciated. Comparing that system with the CHS 20gal, the SB with no chiller or hop baskets is ~$75 more than the same size system. Add a plate chiller and the 2 hop baskets, included with the CHS system, and its approximately an additional $200 which puts it at $1975 for an almost identical system. IMHO, I don't see any reason to spend an additional $200 for a name. Maybe I'm missing something but I guess when you do the brew day on the CHS 10gal system we will get a better idea of which one is better for our individual situations. one thing to keep in mind is that, as far as I know, CHS does not offer the TC options so if that's a thing for you then SB hit your niche.
@@chiefsmash7516 I hear ya.. Good to have options IMO.. I personally don't really see the need for TC fittings... Don't get me wrong they look cool as shit.. But I like cam locks.. Lol👍🍻
I have been electric brewing for a good while now, and I have not had much luck with PID controllers. An autotune might work well with one grain bill, but not another. The latest iteration of my brewing controller uses Auber Instruments DSPR 120 for mashing temperature control and boil intensity control, and they're pretty much bulletproof. No massive temperature fluctuations as well as being able to 'feather' the element with a 60hz power switching cycle makes it easy to maintain temps, greatly reduces the chance of scorching, and generally makes for a smoother brew day. I actually just sent this to spike as a suggestion.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers You're right, the DSPR 120 is a PID, but it seems to be ideally set for this purpose and there's no need for an auto tune. I particularly like the fact that it doesn't overshoot the temperature and it doesn't operate on a 2 second interval. No pulsing boil, and it can vary the duty cycle with much better precision to hit temps.
Since this is basically a BIAB system. I was surprised you did not use a hop basket instead of dropping them directly into the wort. Hop baskets, like BIAB, keeps a lot of solids out of your chiller and fermenter. Also makes cleanup a little easier.
As I suggested before, split the output to the recirc and whirlpool at the same time. It will allow you to keep the recirc slow while not completely choking the pump down. The added benefit is more homogeneous temps in the lower area. I personally wouldn't do a sparge but if I did, I would be adding the sparge water immediately after pulling the basket up so that water was being added before the wort level dropped below the top of the grain. There is a very real chance of oversparging when sprinkling over exposed grain.
Glad you got to share all of this. I have been following and been getting emails from Spike in regards to this system. Looking forward to the autotune info and second brew session.
What I've found with PIDs is that, because they're self learning, you should only run them when everything is running as expected. By that I mean if you turn it on without the pump it will learn how long it takes to heat up without the pump, then you turn the pump on and it will see the temp dropping quicker so will overcompensate. Same with turning the element off, it will think it needs to add more power as it's not getting the response it expects... I used to do the same dance as you but I've started to turn the PID off (not the element) when I'm not recircing or when just heating up static water and it seems to help. I only run the PID when the pump is on.
Yes I'm familiar with how PIDs operate and how to tune them. This one is not self learning it has a auto tune program you run it through. I'll cover it in my next video.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Sorry, I wasn't saying you didn't at all. Just my experience is that (regardless of autotuning) they don't know when you're bypassing them so they panic and try to overcompensate. Turning the element off when it thinks it's on will confuse it regardless of autotune. Just my anecdotal 2c, not contradicting what you said. Peace and love...
@@MrRobhadfieldwasn't offended..didn't mean to seem that way... I turned it off because I knew at that point it wasn't auto tuned and was going to way overshoot my mash.. I wouldn't have done that had I not had that concern. Once auto tuned I wouldn't mess with the element switch. Cheers Rob! 👍🍻
It's 2020 and homebrewers still think you "extract tannins" from heat. It's largely due to mash pH which should never be an issue unless you over mash, oops, over sparge. Great video, thanks!
Enjoyed the video Brian! You should have left the dead lift of the grain basket to the sink in the video. It would have been interesting to see how you handled that. Had to be a challenge!
I already have a 20 gallon kettle from Spike that I use with a custom Utah Biodiesel basket. I think I'm gonna try this basket out. No complaints with the basket from UTB, but this seems like it will be easier to lift, drain, and clean than the all mesh basket.
The overshoot sounds like it could be integral wind-up. The longer and longer it sits thinking its On with the manual switch off it will accumulate error in the integral term. If it was an auto-tuning issue you probably would've seen overshoot on the initial strike water heating as well.
Looks like it needs a floating slotted plate on top of the grain bed, to distribute the recirc, stop the channelling. Second thought is, heavy basket, hanging on one side to drain, does it feel unstable at all? Falling over at this point would suck. Those points aside, looks seriously legit. Between the unboxing (sorta) and this, solid review.
Hi Brian. I brew in a all in one brewha conical fermenter. So in mine there is 7 litres of water in the cone or dead space before I put the colander in. How do I adjust the mash water volume for this? Thank you.
It's great to see you test all different systems and brew with trial and error (with respect). I still love Brewtools best and it's in the same price range. In my opinion, it is too expensive and it has nothing to do with the problem you have encountered. The control unit is just to much DIY, and I have doubts that the hooks on the side of the malt tube will stay attached, or if it damaged the side of the grain basket, that's just my opinion anyway. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for your video very helpful i am beginner starting learning make beer i have a question what model in this video includes everything how much Thank you Have a good day
Ok so here’s the big question. Which system do you prefer? The Blichmann Breweasy or the Spike Solo? While taking everything into consideration. I have the Blichmann. I don’t “love” it but all systems will have their downfalls.
I prefer the brew easy. The only thing that the brew easy needs to be a better system in my opinion is the thermo well for the brew commander as a standard option so you can insert the temperature probe into the kettle when boiling. The brew easy has much better flow through its smash tun. 👍🍻
Haven't even used a system with a pump before, but is sparging necessary is you were recirculating for the whole mash? I know you took your profile from beersmith, just wanted your opinion. Thanks for the great video! Always appreciate your hard work!
I saw that the 15 gallon specs are for 2.5 to 5 gallon batches, but I wonder if it could do a one gallon batch? I know the 10 gallon says up to 2.5 gallons, but I feel like one could easily do 5 gallons as well. Don’t know. I do 1 to 5 gallon batches, so I’d want it to cover that range.
The batch sizes are mainly to do with voltage and amperage of the element power. I doubt with the amount of space under the basket in this system. There probably will be more than a gallon under the basket. 👍🍻
Awesome video. Can you please tell us the height of the kettle with the basket draining on top? I want to see if it will fit in my space in the basement
Great video! How well does the recirculation work post-boil for focusing hop sediment into the center, allowing you to pull the boiled wort out without bringing in the gunk?
What is the kind of material on your walls? I'm looking at laminate but wondering if the heat and moisture will be an issue. Also considering glue down vinyl or wood-look tile. Thanks for all the great videos.
Do you have any helpful hints on how to prevent a stuck mash? Spike recommends 0.035" as a grain mill gap size and I'm currently at 0.040". I've had two stuck mashes to date. Grain mill size is larger than recommended, I wait 10 minutes before recirculating and I'm recirculating at far less than 25% pump capacity...more like 3-5%
Thanks for the detailed video! Two questions; Do you think you would be able to attach a lid mounted steam condenser with the kettle clamp to this unit? What do you use for a stand? Any one in particular you would recommend? Thanks again Brian!
Cool. I'm still mashing as I type this. The autotune should fix your problem. It worked fine for me after autotuning it. Mash temperatures on mine were only +/-1 deg F.
Looks pretty solid! Thanks for all the hard work Brian! I really appreciate your videos and how you care about giving the consumer as much info to help them make a more educated decision!
I’m surprise that you tried to use the butterfly valve to control flow. They’re really not designed for that. Recommend opening it all the way. After that, use the ball valve after the pump to control the flow. That should give you more consistent control.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers They really shouldn't be used on kettles smaller than 1BBL but I can't blame Spike for offering it that way since so many goofballs want.....
Our complete system will use ball valves on the outlet of the pump to control flow precisely. We did not supply a pump for this BETA test and therefore Brian used his own.
It isn't mine it is is actually one from. My home brew club.. I won last montha competition and got to keep it for a month.. I'll see if they can tell me where the got it.. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers I asked SB during the live brew day (it was either Larry or Brian's) and they said the steam condenser would be available at launch.
Hi thanks for the great videos. I am running the 20 gallon 240v system with a BrewCommander and my books never get above 210 degrees and the boil only appears to be boiling above where the element is located in the as well as in the shape of the element. I have been doing 6 gallons batches if that helps. Any ideas? I have emailed both clawhammer and blichmann and still can't figure this out.
Actually no.. Talked to them today.. You can and maybe get a couple more gravity tenths but not designed for it.. My next batch is gonna be a no sparge 5.5 gallon batch to see if it will do it!! 👍🍻
It is one that I use on my HERMS system. I liked to be able to quickly turn off the flow when changing hoses etc. And not change the flow rate. Not necessary. Just my own preference. 👍🍻
1st: Brian, thanks for brewing on a school night. I'm kidding, but I know its tougher when you have to get up the next day and be a real person. 2nd: you've already heard too much about butterfly valves. They're nifty to clean though! 3rd: Do you think the performance and/or features of the baskets warrants usage on other setups, such as SSBrewtech 1v system, Blichmann systems etc ? My question really comes down to the PID and if you think its suitable or if there are better options out there presently?
I think the basket worked well. I personally am fine with a PID based system. Really reliable and accurate (when tuned!!!) And they generally last a long time. I think to stay "relevant" With the upcoming generation of brewers some "connectivity" Is being sought after. How much is anyones guess. Thanks for the questions! 👍🍻
TheDhoyt1234 no not a problem maintaining it. If that’s your boiling point it will boil harder than necessary. You don’t need to boil that vigorously..it is designed like a commercial brewery type control. It is PID based.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers yeah I understand PID loops, I'm a DDC technician so I'm very familiar. That's why I was curious, a PID will maintain whatever you set it to if it's tuned properly so I thought it was weird to set it to manual.
@@tactical_overland_zr2188 lol sorry. I will say the brew easy classic does perform better than the solo. Much better drainage. Lots of people have had issues with the solo basket flow. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers they are valves that are designed for flow control. Gate valves are for on and off. That Blinchman pump is almost like one. Instead of a cone or needle valve its a disk in the horizontal position.
@@gregorywinters4697 Yeah i looked it up after your comment. Interesting valve for sure. I assume the reason that no one has used them on a brewing system is expense?
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Thank you very much. And I'm a member of your channel. I am not fluent in English but I communicate with Google Translate. Thank you again .. Good luck.👍👍🌷💗💙💚💖🌷
