Great vid Bill. One trick I use is I shove a pencil or screwdriver through the spool and put my feet on the pencil and dig the spool into the ground or carpet and spool up using my feet as tension. Ive burned little holes in hardwood but not my hands haha
Great video Bill! I just realized I need an outfit for the boulder fields here in Cape Breton so I bit the bullet and got myself my first van staal which is a vs200sxp and a gsb 10ms. This video sure helps a lot and I'm sure I will go back to spool my future surf reels. Tight lines!
If you do the math correctly, you can eliminate the need to reverse spool to see how much backing you need. For example that reel holds 360yds of 12# equivalent mono (=30lb braid,). You need essentially 60yds of 12 lb backing to bring the 300yds of 30lb braid to the rim. So pick your # backing (in this case 30lb) and do the math on the thickness difference between 12lb then divide to get how many yards. So if 12lb at .30mm divided by 30lb at .50mm is .6 difference, then 60 x .6= aprox 36 yards of 30lb. A yard is 36 inches. Figure out the inches per crank your reel has by taking one full crank and measuring the amount of line taken after you attach the mono. Then do the math on how many cranks you need to pull in 36 yards. So let's pretend your real pulls in 30 inches per crank. 36yds x 36 inches is 1296 inches. Divided by 30 inches = 43. So aprox 43 cranks will be 36yds of your 30lb mono. (Note keep in mind the inches per crank spec on the reel specs are with a FULL SPOOL. Since the backing is at the base of the spool it will be less inches per crank so important to measure that to get your inches per before you figure out how many cranks you need to get to your desired Yds. 80% of the time this method works every time. If you are cautious just put a few less cranks on the backing. I like a mm or 2 rim anyway so I go a little less cranks than the math as to ensure I don't have to cut the braid if it over fills. Tight lines!
Problem with this method is line twist. Line should come off the spool in the same way it goes on, so it needs to be placed facing the reel on the correct side. Also, why not just put some backing on and then finish up with whatever braid the reel will hold. You aren’t going to change the reel of braid type anyway, so “it is what it is” and you’ll know approximately how much braid went on by observing what remains on the spool.
I think back in the mono days that would be a good point. Braid however does not have the memory mono does and I have experienced zero issues with line twist since spooling and using brad since it has been on the market. As for how much line . I personally want to know. Is it 200 or 300 yards, is it 275 or 300? Also if you just put some backing without knowing how much braid you need to reach the rim you have a good chance of under spooling.
Billy - Why is the PP2 Slick “garbage” in your opinion - more susceptible to something, doesn’t cast as far, what? I’ve come to respect your practical grounded approach on a variety of topix-- I use on PP2S on 150 & 200 - not seeing a problem…. Am I missing something?
I have tested it myself and had many customers come with it. I can rub it with two fingers and it comes apart. After a wind knot,and there seems to be many with slick, it’s integrity is shot. Through the years I have had numerous difficulty with the line breaking ,knoting up. I usually do not allow it when doing charters. I think I did a review in the surf rats ball that u can check out. But if ya like it- go for it.
Have only used a few times. Its a great rod for the money. Nice back bone, not to soft or to fast. Going to put one through the paces this year. I think it’s going to be a hit! Rosie loves it !
I don’t think a calculated is going to do it accurately. Spools have different capacities, lines all have different diameter. Ie; power pro 50 is not the same and fireline.