@@Mike_G737I worked a spray foaming job and you only wear the suit because the foam is coming out at about 400 degrees and the smell burns your throat until it’s settled and cooled down
@@that19ram84 I seen dude's spraying with nothing on about 4-5 years ago when I was framing, I think over decades in certain heat and moisture it's gonna be a problem for people.
I hope you ran all of the cables you will ever need in the house before you did that. It is going to be a nightmare if you ever have to run new wires for any reason.
Yes and no... he could always run conduit on the outside of the wall then transition to a flush mounted box on the inside. It just depends on what he needs I suppose. 🤷
I just built a new house. For myself and my family. I looked into it, and did a ton of research. I went with fiberglass. Still the best option. Spray foam will hold moisture, even open cell. Youll never find a roof leak, youll never find plumbing problems. Your house will also hold moisture. Just take a sealed coke out the the fridge and see how much condensation forms. Same thing happens.
If you're spray foaming the roof sheathing then you should really have a ventilated over-roof installed to help with cooling and drying minor roof leaks. If your walls cavities are filled with spray foam then use a service cavity on the exterior walls so plumbing and electrical can be accessed more easily. Yes, sprayfoaming increases the houses air tightness, that's the whole point. If you don't take the air tightness into account and control the ventilation mechanically with an ERV then moisture will build up. The bit about the coke can, I'm not sure what you're getting at. Isn't the point of the insulation to help keep the interior surface temperatures at a suitable temperature i.e. above dew point? Sprayfoam and air tightness can work excellent, but it does take a little thinking to make sure you get all the systems working together.
To add to my first comment, spray foam is typically cheaper for materials but what you save on material you spend in installation and time. The crew has to set up sprayers, dawn PPE and once the install is complete return to cut out the slag and clean up. I have built homes with both spray foam, foil, batt, blown etc. I have found the cheapest most effective means of insulating the home is batt in the walls and blown in the attic, if your ceiling is vaulted then you can just batt throughout. The primary cause for cooling inconsistencies in your home are a few things: duct leakage or undersized ducts and inadequate return air to the unit, improper window installation or windows that are not LowE glazed to reduce UV infliltration, and the most obvious poor/inadequate ventilation of the attic. Your roof whether it is shingles or metal draws a lot of heat from the sun causing the attic temperatures to soar. Properly ventilating your attic will keep the overall inside temperatures of the house lower. As a homeowner, my recommendation when building a home if you are not familiar with maintaining a home or have minimal DIY skills is to keep it simple, have the contractor do batt walls r19 or higher (r7 foil paper if it’s block) and blow in the attic with r34 or higher. You will have more than adequate rvalue and if you ever need to work on the house you won’t be fighting through 4 inches of spray foam. Hope this was informative for anyone who took the time to read this
Don't put a dust mask in place of a cartridge mask. The P100 filter you had didn't protect you one bit from the dangerous fume release during the spray process
@@johnnylavoie When working INSIDE those filters are not effective enough against for example diisocyanates. There is no reason to even discuss it. Do some research. Your health is not worth compromising. Can’t afford the equipment, find something else to do, for ypur own good.
I install the pest control systems in the new houses , drill holes through the studs usually before all that happens but yes running tube with them spraying sucks
I worked in pest control. It doesn't matter what type of insulation you use, bugs will go where there is water, food and shelter. No home is completely immune to pest infestations if you allow them to have those three things.
If I remember correctly a lot of places don’t allow this cause if done wrong can lead to major problems Its extremely toxic if not done right No way I’d take the risk
Closed cell spray foam is far more efficient. Provides much higher R values. Provides much better sound proofing. People opt for open-cell because it's a little cheaper.
@DrewFordsendit valid argument you goof. Closed cell water beads on the surface. Open cell is like a sponge. By the third water issue water beads right through. Einstein.
My brother showed me this dudes tiktok where he paid a group of framers only 5k to frame his 2 story house… felt bad for those guys because they basically worked for free. I’m a concrete subcontractor in Texas and when I have clients like this dude who bitch about pricing I just don’t brother picking up the phone when they call. I just feel bad for the sucker that end up doing the work for less and not making a profit for themselves. I advice this guy to work a day with those framers and see how he’ll like it when he spends all day busting his ass and then the client refuses to pay or wants a “deal.”
@@gunbacker9428this guys entire comment was about the fact that he had a bunch of guys work for damn near free in a video he saw. Not this one. Did you not read the whole comment? Plus, most of these TikTok “influencers” who do these kind of things & post about them are either don’t really know what they’re doin or they don’t really care they jus do it for views.
As an insulation specialist good on you ya made the right decision people don’t understand fiberglass still allows air transfer so it’s more make believe insulation then genuine
Both electricans and plumbers can find closets to run wire/pex to attic and then down thru interior walls for more service...OR plan head and add such before foaming.
People in the comment section trying to find something to complain about cracks me up. You could do the perfect house but there will always be someone to say something negative
Contractor here, spray foam is fantastic insulation and is usually rated between r3.8-r7 per inch. If you’re looking to save money on cooling cost as well as noise reduction through the home spray foam is a great alternative to batt/blown. However, If you ever need to add an outlet, mount drywall anchors (stick frame just use the studs) you will add several hours and hundreds of dollars to the addition. Also I hope whatever foam they used in the video is fire resistant
I’m curious as to the off gassing of this product. How long does it give off fumes (however slight)? A year? 10 years? Who knows… all I know is the government regulators in charge of that don’t care how many people die.
As an hvac tech all I can say is make sure your unit size aka the manual D & J or load calculation was done correctly.. your not going to require as big of a unit now that your house is much more efficient.. and a spray foam house can really hold in and collect more moisture leading to mold in the future.. i would rather take a traditionally insulated home with air movement in the attic BUT also has trees shading the roof during 12-3pm.. sounds crazy but my house I bought this was one of the biggest things for me, I can pull my house down to 72 when it’s 105 outside. Spray foam is cool but It’s also new, we’re seeing some issues mainly with builders not using 90-95% gas furnaces that bring air in from outside.. What I’m getting at is there’s so much knowledge it takes to build a house now a days, even when your just putting up some simple foam you HAVE TO BE EDUCATED on this shit or it can go sideways pretty quick.. don’t always look for the cheap contractor, pick the one you feel is the most knowledgeable even if he’s an asshole lol.. trust me I’ve been doing this 20’years now it’s my whole life
Good points. After I foamed my roof deck 15 yrs ago, I noticed inside humidity soared and I could sense the air was less oxygenated. Installed a dehumidifier and it worked great for 2 years, then broke. They all break down. I needed outside fresh air run into my HVAC and a good dehumidifier, not April Aire (junk). I recommend foaming the attic floor, sealing penetrations. Use LED lighting (less heat) you can seal them w/o fires. No incandescent ceiling lights. Run wires in attic over the foamed floor in conduit. My foam crew was hard working, did a great job. I tipped them. From experience - Leave HVAC on ground floor or in basement, keep return ducting in the floors (heat rises) or lower part of walls (if you have a slab). Continuous roof vent, soffit vents to cool attic. Turtle backs are crap. PS: I don’t recommend a MERV 16 filter system. Doesn’t do a great job and reduces flow by a lot and uses energy. Just Change your good filters very often, clean ducts out to reduce dust.
As a carpenter for over 35 years I would not spray foam my house or buy a spray foamed house. To many problems An in England banks don't loan money on foam houses
@@alanjordan9772 well your spraying two chemicals out of gun if one gets bit clogged up now mix ratio is off. They can off gas now attic is heated an cooled so need bigger ac heat unit with register an return up there. Need fresh air intake can't see if you get water or insect damage. It's just a big no for me.
Actually encapsulated homes use smaller AC units than normal houses because they are much more energy efficient. The attic is “partially”conditioned being supplied 50 CFM per 1000 sqft and remains around 85 degrees. There is a lot less infiltration and less heat transfer between the attic and the ducts/air handler/ceiling because attics are normally 120+ degrees
I'm a spray foamer. This is half pound foam. 2 pound is what you really want to you use. This stuff is squishy. 2 pound is like dry wall when its hard. Half pound is better than batts but still. Go the little more and win 10 x more
True. You need a dehumidifier when you foam your attic roof deck. Those units do not last long. You also need a fresh air intake on a thermostat or manually operated. The house’s oxygen/air is often stale, needs to be refreshed. I’d foam the attic floor only.
Pretty cool dude, I live in Houston as well. How did you start up your business? What us the first job you had? How old are you? Im 23 and do pest control, looking for a better career option/options.
Check with your shingle manufacturer to make sure they still have a warranty if you decide on spray foam. Also some insurance companies are hard to deal with on resale because home inspectors cannot verify condition of roof system or see water damage. Other than that I feel it is a great system
@@Fedgery007 I feel rushed when I have someone watching and usually feel like my work ends up worse but my work is a lot different than most contractors
Spray foam insulation is perfect for the way we so wiring inside walls here in Sweden actually and I've seen it a few times. We use flexible or hard plastic tubes inside the walls where we run individual wires through, so if we ever need to rewire something, you just loop your new wires over one of the old ones, and yank them out from the other end. It's always easy to do that if there's no tight corners or curves you make with the tube.
@@treader3126no. I have an aluminum roof. My inspector told me to contact my insurance before I spray foamed my new home. My insurance company said no to spray foam on the roof because they wouldn't cover it. So I didn't spray the roof.
Never understood putting HVAC or the water heater in the attic. So that 50 gallons of hot water decides to leak.. now it’s leaking down into your house? Or your HVAC struggles to work all year?
Looks like you just posted this, hopefully I’m catching you before your drywall is finished! Make sure the painters use a vapor barrier primer when they prime the drywall. You gotta paint the foam in the attic also. Especially since you’re in what seems like the southern climate zone based on the r values!
@@JaxRileyit's the worst solution though. absolute nightmare to deal with, assuming everything was mixed and applied correctly so that it doesn't kill you in your sleep. if you ever need to make any changes inside the walls, best of luck to you, get ready to spend lots of time, effort and money. if it were a big garage that is going to have minimal wiring, plumbing etc it, may not be too horrible.
@arnold8746 idk I think y'all are making it a bigger deal than it is. I see that stuff all the time and it never gets in our way or causes any issues..
@JaxRiley as long as you're not trying to run new wires, plumbing, or anything behind the wall, I suppose it wouldn't bother you too much. If you're living there and it starts gassing off, that also won't bother you because you'll be dead before you can worry about it.
It’s fine. Been tested. It deteriorates over time though, that’s my issue with it. Heat cycles, moisture, cause it to deteriorate like thin plastic does. Been used in boats, RVs, campers for years amongst other things. A small amount of unsprayed foam gassing off like people complain about isn’t going to hurt anything. It will eventually dry out.
You can do ventilation intentionally (maybe even with a heat exchanger) instead of accidentally. And if the power goes out for a long time you're probably opening the windows anyways.
@@medivaloneyou must live in a warm climate huh? if the power goes out here, the last thing you would be doing is opening a window, unless the woodstoves got really crankin.
Hell no your house dosent need to breathe. You need to breathe and that’s what HVAC systems are for HRVs in particular. I’m a Canadian and even in our climate a very airtight home with proper hvac systems will operate far better then some place that’s drafty. Now spray foam isn’t the only way to do that but it is one way to achieve better envelope airtightness. Source- I’ll soon graduate into the industry.
I worked for an insulation company for three years. What you should have done is used blown in insulation for the attic. It’s a bit messy but with the correct R value you can achieve a climatized environment. Closed cell spray foam for the exterior walls, followed by fibreglass in the interior walls. Watching this reminded me of the rival company going under on a job that looked similar to this.
@@treader3126im European to so I will answer. So the type of construction is not super weird. It’s just way lighter than we build in Europe. I personally like the American style, it’s way more Ressource efficient. In Germany most houses are build of bricks. Very sturdy and a good insulation base value. But nobody would ever use spray foam and I think it’s not even allowed. The trend gos also to more natural isolation like hemp if you work with wood. On brickhouses (which are the most) you use mineral wool or styrofoam, which I personally don’t like.
@@SE4943no one with a clue would use sprayfoam here either, besides to fill some cracks or something like that. Doing the whole house is a nightmare in more ways than one, that is if it doesn't kill the entire family due to improper mixing/application.
@@SE4943 Thanks, that is helpful. Interesting you all wouldn't at least use fiberglass, I get bricks have some insulation but considering how ever efficient we need our homes to be you think you'd try to keep every last bit of AC(less common in europe)/heat. I guess there are still things we could all learn from each other. Wood studs will last multiple lifetimes as long as it's well maintained.
@@Shryquill Using spray foam creates a condensation issue where water condenses between the timber and the foam. Rotting the wood. Doesn't let wood breath. It also makes it difficult to insure and to sell the house.
@@nipstyler open cell spray foam in the depth that it's being used has plenty of vapour permeance for his climate zone. So long as they don't like the walls with a vapour impermeable material like vinyl, they'll be fine.
I sprayed my roof deck 15 years ago. Never had an issue. $3200 is dirt cheap for a foamed house in 2024. My attic was thus a conditioned space and my HVAC was protected. However, all the heat in my house eventually migrated from the 2 lower floors, into my attic thru protrusions. The irony was In winter, the attic was always hot and my heating bills went up. I recommend keeping your HVAC in basement or on ground floor somewhere, never in attic. Foam the attic floor, seal all protrusions into attic. Keep the attic well ventilated via a continuous roof vent and soffit vents. Keep your heating vents in the floor, not in ceiling. Heat rises, floor vents more efficient.
I remember staying in Texas for a few months at a friends in the summer time.. the worst part about all of it was rats dying in the attic.. the heat cooks them and they rot extremely fast
Oh so hes a landlord so basically once this house is built he'll never do maintenance on it again and try to manipulate the tenant to get repairs from their own pocket
Such a stupid comment. First off everything is brand new, so it should all last at least its warranty. Second when is it ever mentioned or implied that hes the type to "manipulate the tenants to get repairs from their own pocket" ... Any good landlord repairs or replaces anything that needs repaired/replaced but if its brand new, or not, and the tenant breaks it then why should he pay for it? You are referring to "Slumlords" by the way, not Landlords.
I’m curious how quickly that would go up in fire can u show us because I think it flame up quickly i definitely think blown in insulation is flammable more then regular insulation it’s a wast of money
Shoot, where I am (in Oregon, pronounced Ore-gun) the walls need to be R-19 and the roof (ceiling) R-38 and floor at R-21 for raised or R-15 for slab foundation. That's a lot more insulation.
Rockwool is good but was only available in Canada back in the 90’s. You can get it here now but it’s expensive. It’s easy to install and I don’t mind touching it as opposed to fiberglass which under microscope, is almost identical to asbestos.
Spray foam is best for attics. Once it’s in the walls, the vertical settling that happens over time actually pushes the foam downwards. You still want to use bats for the walls.
2 issues with spray foam is running new wires and addressing any leaks that you may have. 2 solutions are running conduit for low voltage wire, as for the roof you can spray along the ceiling and not the roof. Understandably in the south you may have the issue of very high temperatures in the attic but those can be abated with adequate ventilation.
If you used open cell foam, which is vapor permeable, on your roof or didn't completely encapsulate it with closed cell, the humidity in the house will condensate on the roof deck during the cooler months and rot the sheeting and rafters
