Like the idea of doing more videos at home. You did alot in bodyshops but most of us who look at your videos are home DIYers so we can relate better. Watched alot of your videos last year along with Paint society and you both helped me ALOT to completley respray my 1996 Supra at home 😎🤟🏾
Home garage setting. I like it! I have a dedicated space,but its not a spraybooth. Its a garage bay with white plastic, insulation, a wall separating my compressors. Pretty decent diy set-up. Fans and filters, powerwashing everything before paint. I enjoy it👍
Good work man, I'm with you about directional sanding, perhaps not so with a large flat surface but generally yes. What I really want to say though, is that I started messing around with painting 6 years ago and your channel really inspired me and helped me along. I actually quit my job (where I had 60-70 people under me) to pursue a career in the industry 12months ago. I have been assessed as a 3rd year already and I honestly look forward to every day at work. Never have I been happier in my life. BTW, I'm 46yrs old.... Thank you Gunman, I salute you bro 😉
Those metallic reds I use a solid red base first, roughly to same shade as the car, to cover the primer first. Almost treat as a 3 stage even though it's not. As a smart repairer find it helps without having to put so many coats of the metallic base on. Great video, like the kind DIY style home stuff.
Looks great bud! As far as blocking goes, as long as your not putting grooves in it , thats all that matters! Even though you're blocking linearly, you are keeping the block moving in different areas and slanting the block so as that it's not moving perfectly parallel. Common sense is the name of the game...which doesn't seem to be so common anymore. this whole thing with guide coat too. I use it occasionally in poor lighting , but if your lighting is good it's really not neccesary, you can literally see whats being sanded and whats not. I keep a micro fiber towel close by so that I can wipe the dust off the panel to see whats going on...it's not hard stuff. I use the towel because I'm not a big fan of blowing dust into the air every 5 minutes, and the micro fiber really cleans that fine dust off well allowing me to see everything clearly.
Nice video Gunny. Proof that you don't need a £30,000 paint booth to do a great job, it's the bloke behind the tools and the spray gun that make it what it is. Great finished result.
Thats it, the end result is all we're after. 😆 well i learnt from you mate so im a directional sander. I like the blocks, also need a vacuum. They definitely helps keep dust down.
I like doing directional first and finish with a diagonal cross pattern. But honestly I think it doesn't really matter also long as what ever your doing works good for you and ends with a good finish on the vehicle.
I'm looking forward to seeing your home garage videos. They appeal to me more as my garage is where I do all my painting. I've been watching your channel for years and learnt a lot from you. Can't wait to see your extraction set up for the garage.
Honestly mate as long as your guide coating and watching how its coming off while sanding , you can cross hatch block or block straight and expect to get good results .. personally the way i do every job is cross hatch but i know blocking it straight gets the job done too! wet checking the primer with wax and grease remover is a quick way to check before paint as well . i know you know that tho , was mainly for people reading. tail gate come up alright . bit of plastic up and water gets the jobs done . having constant "clean" air flow is also really good also .
Always crossed section when sanding, I can't see how it would work doing full panels any other way, but you can't argue with the end result, I guess you have a good eye and experience to do what you do, for some one starting new I would only show them cross sanding as its hard to mess up if done right.
If getting a smooth finish look on the body filler it should not matter how you block sand it if you are going to be using a orbital da, it is the paper that you use and the stages of grit that you go up in, as long as the next grit removes the previous grit scratches and you keep the shape of the panel there is no wrong way or right way to smooth out body filler, bog, bondo, mud or muck, or whatever you call body filler. You do great work and the finish is the proof in your work, a smooth mirror finish if that is the finish you are looking for. Keep up the good work and keep your head high and proud of the workmanship you produce, don't let the doubters get you down. I was always told when doing body filler cross hatching to key the surface to apply body filler over cured body filler so that the fresh body filler can get a key grip to the old or cured body filler.
Great video, I plan on buying one of your spray suits soon and this video has me amped to paint some shit like my 1971 VW Super Beetle! Thank you for sharing Jim, these vids in the garage are awesome.
I use directional for panels that have a crease or significant curvature. I like cross hatch for large, flat panels as it gives a more even finish generally with less chance of waviness. So, I say both are correct, but in different situations.
Great video I'm repainting my 55 chevy belair in my garage for the first time. Your video really helps. I'm from st.catharines Ontario Canada got the 55 in epoxy primer and it's looking pretty good. Block sanding like you do. Little nervous about base clear but I'm going to do my best. Thanks again
Thanks for the video. Found you by someone on Amazon recommending you for the review of the paint gun you use. I've never used a paint gun in my life other than airless but I want to switch up my game. I am rebuilding older tractors now for parades and want to have a nice paint job on them. So if you get this message in the next couple of days, could you shoot me back a note about the brand of gun I should buy. I see this video is about a year old and products have gotten better so, yeah, let me know. I have an 80 gal compressor 15.5 CFM so that's not a limit for me. I am restricted in $$ (aren't we all) so about $300 is the cap for now. Thanks so much. Mark
I do 75-80% directional blocking last 20% cross hatch and never had problems, even then if you do it's normally a repair issue not the way it's blocked.
Comment about the block sanding: I don't really have an opinion about your straight-line sanding but at the very least YOU are getting the benefit of the long block. Many who 'cross-hatch' do it too much to the side effectively making their block 3-inches long and just very wide. The way they do it the block can and will 'ride into' the lows. Cross hatching to be effective needs to just be enough to the side to avoid gouging the block was meant to be used mostly in a straight line long-ways. My opinion only of course.
I sand diagonally except when I don't. It depends on the panel. I never rub the filler with my bare hands. I would have spot primed that little bare spot. Usually use a first coat of tan (sort of a mocha color) base coat before red.
You could easily years ago, but cars are relatively a lot cheaper now and materials are costly. Probably better doing small jobs where you know cost vs return.
When I was an apprentice, the bodymen (panel beaters) and the painters would ride my azz all the time because I used a DA to remove shaping scratches. I don't see the purpose of sanding plastic filler or filler primer using the "blocking" technique the entire time. I shape plastic filler with 40 grit. Once it's straight I'll buzz it using the DA with 80 & 180 to remove the deep scratches. After I prime it, I block the primer with 320 with a hand block, then buzz it again with the DA using 400 & 600. My bodywork never came out wavy and I didn't have deep scratches showing through. I know the scratches never came back through because I still own a vehicle I repaired back in 2005. I was there to make money, not to waste time and create dust.
Just keep doing it the way you’ve always done it there’s too many people out there what’s got too many opinions if it works for you then keep doing it your way and the quality of the work you’re putting out shows that so ignore them stupid opinions they’ve got nothing better else to do Ron from London England 👍
20/25 years ago Gunny id rush to get the Trading post very early Thursday morning to get the 1st crack at cheap cars LJ Toranas and XW XY Falcons were my favourites as they sold quick and i just knew them ol cars really well,your gonna cringe man but id take them into my garage do real quick nasty as repairs to get em semi straight ,wet the floor mask em up and hit em with industrial enamel with a few drops of anti silicone in the gun ,quickly unmask and push em out in the sun to bake ,how times have changed as your results are just sensational ,shame i didnt know you as a kid ,take care lil buddy ,love your channel
Hey Gunman, Great idea to spray in your garage - the way most DYI enthusiasts will do it. Please let me add one more voice asking for a video review on the compressor model and parameters and the overall garage setup. Thank you in advance.
If you block a car one particular way the important thing is, does it work for you, I use both cross hatch on big panels like doors and bonnets, straight on shaped panels to match or maintain the shape
Whatever gets you the best result I suppose. I expect the larger flat surfaces found on older cars would benefit from cross hatch sanding, but some of the compound curves on panels these days makes that pretty difficult. I recently asked you why you did not cross sand a flat panel, but this was a question, certainly not any critism. Go for it.
Looks great, I love seeing it being done at home, reminds me of doing jobs I’m my mums single garage with no one on my back That’s what inspired me to go on my own I now have a Haltec gas fired spray booth at the bottom of my garden I sent you some photos of my set up on Facebook messenger if you wanna check it out Great work man 👍
Exactly BLA-BLA they said. I am doing it the same way. As the shape of the detail! I like btw how modest and respectful are you, i am a allrounder ass well, but you are on the top level! Hahaha thei called me The New Gunman because i have the top 20 guns between 2018-1022. Still fan of the X5500 I 1.3
Great work, I appreciate the detailed explanations of why you do things and what you might give up if you don’t do it right. I am wondering if you think my idea has a chance, or if it’s not worth bothering with. I have a class A RV - 35’ long, definitely will not fit into my garage. It was built in 1995, and its paint has…seen better days. If I set my standards low, can I paint it outdoors? There are some panels that are removable but a lot is impractical or impossible to remove. Are there any things you’d do differently if you were outdoors? I painted the roof with some roller applied silicone material, and only got 3 or 4 bugs stuck in it. But the roof is waterproof now, so it’s an improvement. Finally…how exactly are you supposed to paint a 32’x8’ panel while keeping the leading edge wet while blending. I can’t reach from the top to the bottom without a platform…it sounds like a physical impossibility :) Thanks!
Awesome video showing great results that can be achieved at home. Could you please show us how to remove defects in the paint at home? Looking forward to the clear coat phase keep going Gunny!
Come on gunny! Great video Man. Thanks for always giving some great advise, tips and tricks. I'm learning so much from your videos. If you have time I've uploaded a video for you, showing you my current project. Love the vids mate.
Man this is awesome Gunny, I feel really at home watching you painting in your garage as that's pretty much what I'm doing but I do have a workshop that I built with a small booth in one corner. Anyway mate I see nothing wrong with the way you do your blocking, I don't understand how anyone can criticise your blockwork as all you have to do is look at the end results and they are perfect 🤷♂️🤦♂️ I love all my DV1 guns and yeah like you I think the DV1S is a great gun and so much better than the SRI ProLite, however I do think it's a bit overpriced but it's not a huge amount more than the other big makes out there, I was lucky enough to win my DV1S in a competition so didn't pay anything for it but now my SRI guns don't get used 😁🙏👍 John UK.
Hey mate I hope you can give me some advice about a cheap car and it has some crows feet in the few spots of the like along the top of the doors paint does it have to go back to beer metal or can I spray 2K high build over it first and let it settle for a few days??
Hi sir,,im new subscriber to you..from philippines ilike painting because im a painter also here in my country,im injoy to watch your video and thanks for your toturial about spraygun paniting i hope some day i have 1 spraygun like your spraygun gudbless you sir...
Hey Gunman, great video lots of knowledge I’m learning!. I got a question I was speaking to a mate that’s getting his car resprayed his paint guy was saying if he goes two lots of UV High Filler, this will create a glow underneath the paint or will cause the paint colour to glow and pop more. Whats your thoughts on it? Is it true and how does it work, and is it worth it? - Cheers man T
