This is great to know! Thanks for posting! I was considering doing this exact thing - foam, rinse, and a touchless sealant - over the uocoming winter so you saved me! I had considered the possibility of sealing in dirt but I figured that one it happened because I thought the silence wouldn't be able to cling with dirt behind them and would just come off in the next wash, but evidently not! I guess I'll rinseless wash at least before adding additional protection. Thanks again!
Perfect timing cause I was thinking of buying one of those quick bead sprays (TEC583 was high on my list) and I frequently do the same “quick foam/rinse” as you for same reasons (garage grime, pollen, rain, etc) ! Glad I saw this!
Yes! First channel I’ve seen to bring this up. This past year I’ve gone 🦍 💩 on products. I just did a small fender touchup and the paint did some funky things. I don’t know all the terminology but let’s just say it took extra sanding. It’d be interesting to see if a paint thickness gauge would show a difference after months of using these spray sealants.
Always bringing knowledge and facts with every video. This is great information to know if anyone ever plans on wrapping their car and using sealants. Looking forward to the giveaway.
Curious, what did you ultimately use to rid the wrap of the spray wax buildup? Did you try DIY water spot remover or their APC All Clean. I know the water spot remover works well to restore water beading to clogged ceramic coated cars. As usual a great and informative video.
I just stopped using toppers and continued to wash until it was gone. Some areas I had to do ver light polish and was doing a new ceramic coating anyway so worked out. Not a good idea to polish satin, but it actually came out real nice.
Amazing video. I have a two month old Mazda cx5 I’m just a homeowner who wants to keep his car looking great while protecting it. I have a foam gun with hose. So I’ll foam and dwell then rinse and foam and contact wash Which product do you recommend post wash? And seems like spray and rinse sealant then drying is my speed! Thoughts?
When you do your wash have you tried a high alkaline soap ? Bilt Hamber or Koch Chemie Super Foam ph 12 car pro descale or reset. I used Koch Chemie Green Star in a foam cannon with a shampoo. Never used super clean.
Usually their products are not available in the US. A few sites that do charge way too much. Just looking at it on google it is the exact same as the SPTA foamer I did a video on. If it is anything like those then it should be really good.
Great Video! So if I understand you correctly this build up occurred gradually when you performed "touchless" washes and then used the air dryer, instead of a towel correct?
Touchless Wash that didn’t get all the dirt off the surface and then the spray and rinse sealed it in so it couldn’t be easily removed next wash. Air drying isn’t really a part of it because the damage has already been down. Using a drying towel is less of an issue as usually most do the sealant application then which gives you another chance to wipe off the dirt.
@@CarsWithKeav great information and great video, I guess the best way is to use a simple, solvent based detail spray that has no protection, and the solvents will help dissolve some of that road film or soap, film while leaving a nice gloss behind
I also have a matte black wrap on my car-- easy coat or quick beads hurt the finish or become more glossy? Which product has given you better hydrophobics? Better longevity? Thanks so much!
Both will leave a little sheen, but not much. I prefer Quick Beads, but I still use both as I have a large supple of Easy Coat left over. Quick beads is more water like so it mists better to allow you to not waste so much product.
A cool vid Keav (a cool name, never encountered one 🤔), yeeeah,,topper buildup" is a thing, I never had it, but my friend reeealy loved his toppers, I'm not that guy - I'm not a fan of these spray / rinse sealants (maybe on wheels, contemplating now between wet coat and quick beads - wich side you leen on?) and any qd or topers in general, on my BMW I like to see raw coating performance, on the daily though I experiment - lately used Gyeon Ceramic Detailer - left the surface super slick and mega shiny (I can see the appeal) but still, none of this stuff will ever touch my German destroyer of worlds 😅 cheers!
I no longer use toppers since I have redone using DIY ceramic coatings. I prefer the raw performance as well plus saves money. Especially since I have gone Rinsless for my contact wash I don’t need the extra hydrophobics to leaf blow the car I towel dry now. I prefer Quick Beads if I did a spray and rinse and Gtechniq easy coat would be a close 2nd.
@@victoryensured7137 I have Gtechniq C5 and DIY 8 year on my two sets of BBS CIR’s. I switched to carbon brake pads which helped a lot with my brake dust. The Gtechniq has worn off and I’ll need to recoat. The DIY 8 year is just amazing if it’s not beading water spot remover and it’s back. When I did leaf blow I used spotless water so no minerals there.
@@CarsWithKeav So you don't use toppers on these wheel coatings like Quick Beads or the Gtechniq one from time to time? As i sad i don't do top my main paint but on wheels im wondering... I love both DIY and Gtechniq a lot, top tier companies but wished Gtechniq was a little less stingy with the amout of product they offer for the price, just look at C6 Matt Dash - such an amazing product but man 100ml? I know you dont use a lot but still :) Thank you for your time and sharing the knowledge!
@@CarsWithKeav Oh and C5 was great when i used it, a really good wheel coating, with DLUX i have mixed feelings though haven't tried the DIY one, i have on my shelf the DIY 3 year.
When my car gets really bad in the winter from road salts I will do a foam apc or even an acid cleaner to get rid of the minerals Descale.. Wonder if you try 10 to 1 in your ik foamer with an apc if it will strip that off
It probably would. I’m just wearing it down slowly right now. It’s almost all gone. You should have seen a few months ago. It was like driving in the rain letting it dry then just clear coating over it.
I don't think these are "sealing in the dirt" -- chemically that doesn't make sense, because it means the sealant is still on there and somehow standing up to dozens of washes including with APCs. They're just not that durable. I suspect this is some kind of mineral based residue. Since APCs and iron remover aren't removing it, I would suggest trying an acidic cleaner, like a water spot remover. It's the 3rd part of a typical chemical decon wash and what us northerners do in the spring to remove salt deposits from our car.
Water spot remover does not work either. I talked to several chemists who said you can seal in the dirt layer or at the least the dirt or residue is part of that layer. Using a sealant too much just buries it under those layers. I probably applied these sealants dozens of times before realizing the dirt. You could be right, but I’m no expert in that field to know. 🤣 I can say now not applying a sealant for months the surface it getting more vibrant every wash and looks like I might finally have it all off.
Maybe an IPA wash after all the washing would be good. Traditional soap leaves a film, especially if not rinsed well . Rinseless wash from DIY DETAIL doesn't leave film . Look into that ...
I’ve been breaking down the film with everything I got. By the time I filmed this I have most of it gone. Could be some soap residue, it I am an overachiever at rinsing usually. 🤣 before you could see the rain drop film and all. It’s now just a haze.
My question with these spray on rinse off is what if I want to use a ceramic spray or some sort of wax at the end of my job since I am rinsing it with something like Hydr02 from car pro. Would these be more for people that have already applied a spray wax or ceramic spray few washes before and then use the spray sealant to just keep the hydrophobic properties. Does that make sense? It wouldn’t make sense apply spray wax on top of a panel that got rinsed with spray / rinse sealant
There are people that stack these they use a rinse sealant and then a drying aid. For me it is a topper for the true coating whether it is a SIO2, wax or a true ceramic coating. They can also be used as the true coating. They just don’t have the longevity as most of the wipe on and buff off ones. Most of these have 3 months and most of the wipe on and buff last 6 months
@@CarsWithKeav but if you spray for example turtle ceramic wax at the end of the job you wouldn’t be able to use these products UNLESS you wet the area and then rinse winch wouldn’t make sense
@@emadventures6975 You would use these products after rinse then spray and rinse. Then use turtle wax during the drying process or when dry. It really makes no sense to use them together in the same Wash process. Best to use these as a topper coat during washes. If you still use a drying aid with a drying towel these really make no sense because most likely the drying aid is doing the same.
pointless over any durable coating as these spray n rinse products are not durable whatsoever especially onv wheels where you're using high ph or low acidic cleaners. if it lasted a couple wages sure but quick beads n ceramic gloss are gone after a thorough wash . use a coating or true sealant designed to resist chemicals and you'll be good no need for spray n waste products
Spray and rinse are meant to be toppers to a true ceramic coating in my opinion. Never would use as any kind of long term. I don’t use high ph or acidic wheel cleaners. Since they are coated I just use a ph nuetral iron remover and normal foam soap do my contact and clean every time. I will tell you it took a lot to finally get that locked in dirt out. So they were real durable against me trying to remove them.
