Thank you Chappy, don't care for mistakes, is normal to find somthing goes wrong when you wrest!!! I found this video very useful for my new job: to replace old Shock adsorbers on my w903 Sptiner (something different, like the place where are fixed bolts on the bottom side; 4 bolts with the screw placed perpendiculary by the center line of the veichle, not so difficult to understand how to take it out, tanks to your video!). I replaced with two new Bilstein Shock adsorbers Type "B6" (while the originale is named "B4").. Those Bilstein are a special version of a normal one, they have a "gas-based" system. This mean that drive is more confortable, because gas is comprimible, so you have a gradual response depending by the force of the impact tho adsorbe. The gas react by augmenting his force proportionally with the level of the force applied to them. I'm an absolutely "made by yourself" man, so I like to sperimentate news technologies! So, wish all the best and thank you again, from Italy!. I think isn't necessary to specify I'm italian becaouse you can deduce it by my english! Ahahahah. Good job guy!!!
You don't need to take the brake caliber off. You also don't need the bottle jack. To anyone wondering about a weird noise coming from the front of the vehicle, it's the strut. It almost sounds like a grinding noise and you can feel the noise. I thought it was a wheel bearing at first, taking the wheel off two times, until I figured this out. This all happened at about 277k
I own one and the best way to keep the camber alignment right after removing the strut is to mark where the shock contacts the hub.draw a line to trace the shock position on the hub.then when you instal the new struts align the strut to the marking you put on the hub.you wouldn’t iven need to go to alignment shop.assuming the last time they put the strut the did proper camber alignment.if tires are properly worn out then camber is ok 👌
I guess Im randomly asking but does anyone know of a way to get back into an Instagram account..? I was stupid forgot my password. I love any assistance you can offer me.
@Daniel Tatum i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and im in the hacking process atm. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Just did the passenger side on mine drivers tomorrow had to stop and buy a 21mm wrench for the bottom nuts 15/16” works for the top with a 7mm allen socket adapted to a breaker bar. I think that nut was tightened by the hand of god. Takes a lot of time at a quarter turn at a time removing the Jack helps I also have on the floor jack to lift the rotor caliper spindle back in place is very helpful because it’s so heavy
surprisingly my fronts were still good and have good dampening and compression after 220k miles. All shocks were original, the rears however were in terrible shape. I seriously love the front leaf spring design because I can just swap out the shocks so easily. BTW @ 9:32 you don't need to take anything off. There's a super simple way to take the shock out. dampers are easily compressed by hand. You can just pull the damper shaft down and then pull the shock out. Or even easier to just lift the bottom of the strut by compressing it and then pulling down so the shaft comes out of the top bushing.
Thanks for the video, sharing the socket size would make it a little easier for diy'ers. Also do you happen to have the torque specs on hand (especially concerned about the caliper) Cheers!
I am in New Hampshire, I suspect several states have a requirement that the suspension be in good working order, problem is the definition of "good working order" is often left up to the inspection station. I had it inspected at the dealership where they are I believe overly critical. Problem is once they flag it as needing work that goes into the state inspection database so you can't just take it someplace else and try again.
they aren't struts if they don't have springs and turn with the hub and they won't affect the alignment, i stand corrected, never comment before the end of the video
I just learned that my front left strut was blown. The technician also said that the front left was actually riding higher than the right side. Why would that be and what does that mean for me?
Thanks for the video, will be doing mine soon due to a leak in the drivers side (65k) It’s great when we can all help each other out. I have my own channel DIY sprinter Van. Trying to get a job done is hard enough then add a camera and editing and it’s an all day event. I just did my rear brakes and I’m kicking myself for not making a video. Changing fuel filters in our van will be a good one. Hopefully you beat me to it👍🏽
Nice video! And great to see other people working on their cars and how they handle with it. I also have a DIY video about replacing the front struts of a mercedes sprinter
I took it to a tire shop to get it aligned after I did this. If you are careful you can get it close enough so it is good enough to drive to the shop. Even if it drives ok after you should get the alignment checked so you don't destroy your tires.
The front struts on my 2015 (906 low top i4) Sprinter have finally pooped out...at 180,000 miles...and your video is very helpful in making plans for next weekends removal and replacement. Found the OEM Bilstein version online for only $130 each!
Where'd you find your shocks? I'm going to be upgrading my whole suspension soon, but just blew out the passenger shock. I'm trying to decide if I roll the dice on a pair from ebay for $100 (total!) but I could stomach $130 each to buy me time until I'm ready for the full tear down.
