Great update - I especially enjoyed the sump tour. Congrats on the 8k subs!! 💥 And thank you for the shoutout! Even though Chad is undersized for the 600 gallons I now have, I’ll never let him go! 🥰 someday I might downsize and he will be ready and waiting. My plan was to get the 3000i for the new system but shipping from the US was equivalent to 10% of the cost of the skimmer - waaaaaaay too much! And because of the pandemic I couldn’t use my US shipping address. But if things ever normalize again - I’d get it in a heartbeat. ❣️
Thank you for the video I have to say you’re one of the most knowledgeable refers out there I enjoyed your live feed you should do those more often thank you again
Glad to see and hear things are going well again. One observation I thought you might want to watch for long term with regard to the automatic water change you had setup. Since you have no filter before your AWC picks up waste water, there is a big chance long term your line will be clogged. Once that happens, you will start noticing and wondering why your sump tank water level starts to slowly rise (the timing will be varied based on your evaporation rate and new saltwater input). You might consider moving the waste water line further downstream (ideally after your filter) to minimize this from happening long term. Once you do that of course you should also ensure your new saltwater line is down from that. The other consideration with regard to the waste water line is the same scenario could happen when you clean your sump. It could also get clogged from cleaning if you there are particles floating around after you clean. usually i turn off the AWC when I clean my tank and ensure I check the waste line before I call it done just incase. hth thanks for the content.
@@TheBioReef So, I get line clogs on my AWC system (maybe every 6 months to a year). What I do is just cycle some acid through the line. Cleans it up in a few hours. Honestly there is no preventing line clogs. You can only reduce its frequency.
Nice! Recovery 🙌🏼 I really love my Deltec too. This my 2nd one. They are work horses. Love my Tunze ATO as well. Just wait…your tank is fixing to gain some crazy color. 🙂Following. 😉
Just a heads up, that solenoid value on your ro water will be leaching aluminium, copper and zinc into your tank (especially if your ion exchange resin starts to wear out), change it out for a direct acting one to remove the exposure of metal to the water. Smart move using the backup mechanical float valve.
@@Reefahholic My background is in this stuff. It has a brass casing with an aluminium plunger all in contact with the water. When your DI starts to wear out the chemical it starts to release (smells like fish) eats the internals, not to where it will fail or is a problem for its normal use, but enough where it leaches into the water which in even minuet amounts is bad for inverts. The solenoid valve you are after will have a plastic casing and a round/cylindrical solenoid coil (usually light blue). It will also get a little warmer and be a little louder (cause direct acting), but it means no metals in contact with the water. The one you have is really meant for atmospheric air, not fluids.
thanks So much Quad for this tip; i did ask tunze about this when i was building my system and there response was that it was 1) made from brass 2) unlikely to leach anything substantive into the water given small contact time and given properties of fresh water 3) what ever leach out is so small that is unlikely to be detected with ICP; I did have high aluminum in my system, but i didn't think that it would come from a brass fitting; copper and lead were normal according to my last ICP test... do you think that my high aluminium could be coming from this fitting ?
also - is there another solenoid that i can replace this one with that will have plastic instead of metal... i don't understand your reference to 'change it out for a direct acting one' - links to the products you are thinking of would be great.. REALLY appreciate this BTW!!!
Excellent set up. How is your pH not through the roof dosing 4 litres of kalk every 24 hours? And your dosing two part aswell. I'm doing roughly the same apart from the water change (I'm using probiotic salt so can't store it) I'm only dosing 325ml of kalk every 24hrs and my ph is at 8.5 and I'd say my sps coral cast is 3 times of yours at the moment
cool - they run on solar right ? yeah we are thinking of having some solar panels installed in the future - that may be a good option. thanks for the tip!
@@TheBioReef Can change from ac outlet or solar , will flop over to the units stored battery power when senses lose of ac power. Ecoflow Web page explains better than I can . Thanks for great reef content.
why did you choose the deltec 600ix protein skimmer? why not choose a big one like 1000ix or 1500ix, is a protein skimmer 2x bigger than the volume of water better?
Forgot to ask you during you love stream… how do you manage sps from touching one another? Do you trim before they touch? Or do you kinda just let them battle it out? Is this something you have to pay attention too?
yeah i debated about using a float valve and forgoing the ATO altogether. My hesitation was that the curret float valve is 'screwed in' and i worry about it coming lose. If didn't want to drill the WB sump for a fixed float valve. I also like the alarm on the tunze in case something goes wrong... having said that, and in light of Quad's comments below about the solenoid leaching chemicals, i may actually want to just drill the sump, install a float valve, and take apart the tunze altogether... why add unnecessary complications especially if they result in contamination?
