I'm considering a Salt 2 Serrated...possibly a Para 3 Serrated...Why serrated? I have a problem with bades that have recassa's/nubs e.g. most Spyderco's. As they get in the way of cutting should you want to to sue more of the blade near the heel...and whe sharpening. Not sure why Spyderco insists on this type of blade geometry. They should KNOW the recassa/nub gets in the way. And should have a "sharpening choil"...as seen on many other brands e.g. Benchmade, ZT (still has a slight recassa oddly enough but enough "exposed " steel of maybe 2-3mm before the recassa... With a serrated edge ...you sharpen the grooves differrently so the recassa/nub doesn't get in the way during sharpening. ...though it does slightly get in the way of use as you near the heel. IF only Spyderco would remove the recsa and nub...
Got it too. Love it and love me some Lc200n. Mine came at 14* per side and 16 thou behind the edge it was sharpest knife hands down but it came with one minor Knick in edge but I’ll take it
Yeah, I noticed how well this thing slices immediately. I have not put an angle gauge on mine yet, but just eyeballing I'd say 14 to 15 is about right on mine as well. It looks like how I would reprofile it if I needed to do that, so someone sharpened these up nicely apparently. Glad you got one, I am more than pleased with mine.
This really is such a great knife. Mine rocks in the kitchen, rocks at work and rocks on rivers and lakes during humid summer fishing. LC200N is fairly tough too and I haven't had any chipping in cutting bait.
@@appalachiafishingclub The straight edge is my preferred choice for many reasons, but the serrated edge will sharpen up beautifully and easily on a Sharpmaker in no time.
I personally love plain edges because of what I cut mostly... but man a fully serrated Spyder Edge is a wicked cutter, I have the scar across my arm to prove it. It really depends on what your intentions are with the knife. I EDC a straight edge for pretty much everything and I always keep something fully serrated (my Matriarch 2 or Crossbill for example) in my waistband for other reasons. Sharpening is just as easy on both choices with something like a Sharpmaker. If you cut a lot of tougher fibrous materials and such, full serrations are definitely the way I would go. If you do things in the kitchen or with food a lot, straight edge all the way. Both will work great just about everywhere else. People think Spyder Edged knives don't slice as well as straight edge, that's simply not true and I've proven that on numerous videos.
X4CTO I own a couple serrated Spyderco Knifes. I use a Spyderco sharpening tool but Im afraid that I'll ruin the serrated blades. Perhaps I should practice on a cheaper knife.
@@appalachiafishingclub If you stick with the fine alumina ceramics from Spyderco then you will get the edge very sharp but you won't damage the serrations. This is why Sal was recommending using only fine ceramics and pulling the blade across the ceramics just as you would a plain edge. I made a video on it years ago and people really got their panties all in a bunch because I was doing it that way, which was the way I was instructed by Sal to do it mind you, and they said I would ruin my knife. I've been sharpening that way for about 15 years and I've never ruined my serrations on the fine ceramics. "Worst" case scenario is, it will very slightly round the peaks of each serration and that would make the edge cut even better... but that's with a lot of sharpening. Of course you could use the ceramic and go in between each serration too, that works well but is more involved. Either way if you stick with fine you will be fine.
Hands down my favorite steel. I have one of these on the way and I am stoked for it. Had to sub when I got the feeling you were going to be grabbing up more of that sweet, sweet LC200N as Spyderco releases more. This might end up being my go-to channel for reviews of blades in this steel. That A2 is one hell of an auto.
LC200N is one my favorite steels as well... Maxamet too, but for different reasons. I'm glad you were able to grab one, apparently they're selling out pretty fast in a lot of places. When they put LC200N on a Pacific Salt I knew I had to grab it because I used to carry the H1 Pacific for years and loved it... now with the new design, it's even better. I look forward to all the things they are going to do with this steel and hope to check them all out. I very much appreciate you subscribing, thank you for your support. Oh and yeah the Autonomy 2 is probably my favorite side opening auto available at the moment.
@@X4CTO I stopped work and instabought it the minute I got the in-stock email. I don't have any maxamet yet but have been eyeing some knives in it. On the note of edge retention, I was surprised by the edge retention of LC200N. It's definitely better than the couple of examples of VG-10 that I have, even the one of them I have from Spyderco. I only have two side open autos, the Launch 1 and the Spyderco A2. It certainly my favorite of the two. The day I got it, it sat in pouring rain on a picnic table for about 5 hours, while I fished. Blew out the coil with a hairdryer when I got home and dropped it in the knife bowl, totally unconcerned about corrosion.
@@PoetFisherman I had one pre-ordered and then I found one sitting at my local knife shop before my pre-ordered one was going to ship, so I just bought it then. Still have one on pre-order because apparently BladeHQ is taking forever to ship. Not sure what's going on with that. Either way, glad I found one. Maxamet is some seriously next level stuff, edge retention is unlike anything I've ever used personally. Rex 45 is up there in edge retention too, but nothing like Maxamaet. Same here with LC200N, very pleased with it's toughness and edge retention so far... and all that while being incredibly corrosion resistant. Short of some specific chemical mixture, I don't think anything corrodes it... definitely not water or salt. NASA uses it apparently, so it's space proof. HAHA. H1 was OK, but I've been telling people LC200N is just so much better overall. Yeah the A2 is such a well though out automatic. I love the fact that the whole spring assembly is quickly and easily swappable without taking the knife completely apart, just get a new coil pack and swap it in... and that's IF you even need to do that. Great design for so many reasons.
@@X4CTO hahaha space proof. Maxamet is the next steel on my list, just after picking up some SPY-27. Can't even remember now what SPY-27 knife I'm waiting to drop. Not the native 5 as I have that in Salt. Fo sho, on the A2. What a great design and I actually really like that massive firing button.
@@PoetFisherman Yeah I would like to try out some of the SPY-27 myself, seems like it could be a promising steel from what I've heard about it so far. Perhaps taking the best of S35VN and S30V and meeting somewhere in the middle with some added toughness. Not sure where edge retention will fall, but I would certainly love to test some and make my conclusions. The oversized button on the A2 was definitely one of the reasons I was so intrigued, sort of a unique feature among side firing autos I think. Then when you take something like one of the glowing inserts from Silent Thunder Ordnance and put it into the button, man that just makes it more special. I am thinking I might order one of the red calcium inserts for mine. They also accept tritium viles... I can't help it, I love glowing things. HAHA.
ey i rust my LC200N Spydiechef hahaha. but rly its rust resistence is amazing. the only reason it rusted on mine is cuz i use it to cut some fruits n stuff and i dont maintain the blade well. i just wash it in the sink and then wipe it. should be fine for most people
I am not sure online, I actually still have one on pre-order at BladeHQ that has not shipped yet. I think I few sites got some in but they sold fast on the first batches. I picked up mine here at my local knife shop.
