I appreciate the content Mitch. I know producing it takes time and slows your efforts down so I want to say thank you and I appreciate you taking the time to share with us. I am learning about square grinding and more so filing as I am a homeowner cutting firewood for the house. I always enjoy learning something new and picked up a few things from this video. Stay safe!
I am going to watch the video another time or two. Just got a grinder and trying to get it figured out. Jake Mesa and the old Guilty of Treeson have good videos but there is not enough there to really get it figured. I think I killed 3 chains before I got a decent grind. This video helped cover a few things I didn’t get while grinding. This video really helped.
Check out my buddy jack ...beeler....hotsaws 101...he's legend of 2cycle gas,oils chains bars and grinds..true old school logger ..most underrated tree man on you tube..mostly because he tells it how it is and believe s in GOD..most Americans only want there ears tickled..😂..
When you get a chance, how about some expounding on angles - side cutter forward tilt, top plate inside angle and their effect on durability/speed. Thanks!
One of my customers taught me to, before i take the chain off, run it through a clean piece of wood and then shut the saw off before it oils anymore. That makes a big difference for cleanliness of the chain when it goes on the grinder Do you chase your angles as the wheel shrinks? Or just run whatever grind it gives you?
If I'm in a strip that has some hardwood in it, I'll run a couple cuts into it to clear the softwood sap off, but sometimes there's none around. I have not adjusted my angles as the stone shrinks. It's still running steeper than stock and hasn't mellowed much, so I've just left it as is.
i enjoyed it, however I would liked to have seen the actual tooth sharpened to get a clearer view of this "mystical" square grind. I know, for sure it works, I have watched you and others with the square grind. whenever I see you cut, its like MANNN that chain is SHARP!!! to be honest, I use that cheap a$$ HF grinder, and it does a decent job. im not a lumberjack, nor a pro. just a homeowner.
I find if I don't clean the chains pretty quick blackness gets on the disc and I have to constantly dress it because with that gunk on the disc it doesn't sharpen and gets hot and has messed up teeth on me
Try doing that with hand file ..in a sthil brand chain.especially after one use the plateing gets heated and eats files ..takes a hour to sqaure file ..can do a decent round file 7/32 and it cuts great and lasts longer here in southeastern snd midwest ,north east its hard woods mostly and doing daily solo tree removals without equipment. Or help for that matter hand loading loggs and qaurter ing them .theres always dirt metal bullets have even hit concrete 20ft up a tree .were someone poured it into a tree hole.looks like hornet nest.but destroys chain on top handles.im switch ing to skip and semi.bevause fileing takes to long ..the local dealership sells stihl and husqvarna chain.the plateing is way to hard..ive found the echo round files work better thsn stihls I will only use stihl files for backups now..i would buy a grinder but dont have building space for one and it would just rust like everything does here in these mountains..everything..gets wett..i tryed the dremel abd other methods after years of round file but it cant be touched up in the feild after gets heated ..its crazy these stihl chains.brand..ive had onecside get so hot it eats a file..the west is a different ball game entirely..that said would love to try a grinder like that..but would probably do a dozen chains at once.but i run 0.43 qaurter pitch micro polesaw chain on my tophandles and no stone will fit those..they out cut those 3,/8, lp and other tophandles chains ..cant understand why guys dont use them.its faster smoother then nano.or regular tophandles..i use tophandles 70 percent of the time.or more when i can..being wounded..spine holding anything over 8 pounds out extended is seriously painful..
Yes, you can convert a full chisel round ground tooth to square ground. You do lose a bit of material on the first grind because the round beak has to be taken back some.
