Squaring a Block of Stone by hand

Подписаться 1,2 тыс.

Просмотров 4 тыс.

50% 1

Sculptor AC Button II of carolinasculpturestudio.com/ demonstrates squaring a rough block of stone by hand, a traditional exercise used to train aspiring stone craftsmen, artists and sculptors. This is the first stone project presented in the Virtual Stone Carving Apprenticeship for aspiring stone carvers and sculptors. ru-vid.com?list... The goal of the VSCA video series is to preserve heritage while preparing individuals for greater achievement in related three-dimensional work across media.
In this video, Button begins with a 300 lb block of Kershaw Granite. The block has four split sides, one natural face and one flat polished side that was damaged beyond repair. The existing damaged flat side was placed at the bottom. For this lesson, it was skewed from level in two planes with wedges so that it could not be used for reference. He then uses a pair of plumb blocks with a carpenter level to track progress as he levels the initial side. Once the first side is nearly completed with only a small amount of crown remaining, he progressively turns the stone to produce comparable faces or panels on each of the remaining five sides. To complete the exercise, he methodically removes the remaining crown on each face while simultaneously resolving the edges and corners shared with adjoining faces. Nearly all work is done with a pneumatic hand machine and a small assortment of chisels. The full process is covered in its entirety on the VSCA playlist, Video 9 through Video 26.
The process is analogous for softer stone and for using hand-driven tools. Accurate production of a single face or panel is applicable to many carving and sculpture projects. This exercise is indispensable for persons in pursuit of a basic skill set for working in stone.
These are links to three videos of flattening a face and/or squaring a block, using alternate methods to achieve comparable results:
The first one shows finishing of a granite block by a Japanese Master, with majority of work produced using hand driven tools-- • 【京都】SDGsにも取り組む現代の石工 . The second video shows a French Master demonstrating the squaring of a rough piece of limestone, using only hand-driven tools. • Tailleur de pierre The third video features an Italian Master guiding a class of aspiring stone cutters in a comparable process. • Real time - La lavoraz... . These videos provide excellent additional resource for those wanting to cut stone accurately
In-Studio instruction under Button is an excellent option for those who chose to pursue and afford it. If studied and practiced, the lessons offered via the Virtual Stone Carving Apprenticeship series will help streamline such In-Studio instruction to make it as time-efficient and cost-effective as possible for both Sculptor and Student/Apprentice. Both individual and group sessions are available and will be tailored to meet specific needs.
For more information about Sculptor AC Button II, his work and training opportunities including pricing, visit carolinasculpturestudio.com for contact information.

Хобби

Опубликовано:

4 мар 2023

Ссылка:

Скачать:

Готовим ссылку...

Добавить в:

Мой плейлист

Посмотреть позже

Комментарии : 17

@SuperMunQ Год назад

Just started watching your apprenticeship series. Thank you for sharing this information!

@carolinasculpturestudio Год назад

Very cool. Start at the beginning and work your way through it so later videos will make the most sense. I cover a wide range of info in the early videos to expedite later instruction. I hope you find value and resource in it.

@steffenknopp7550 10 месяцев назад

Very interesting to see different techniques of carving a block of stone...i'm a stonemason in Germany since nearly 36 years now, but our way to flatten surfaces is different...sorry for my english 😂, last lesson was 37 years ago🫣

@carolinasculpturestudio 10 месяцев назад

Your English is very good and much better than my German.. thank you for commenting. Would you be willing to explain your method briefly, so it would be here on the thread for others to know and practice? My goal is to archive good information for all to share. I am familiar with a Japanese method (using only hand-driven tools) using only a point to flatten a face to straight lines drawn on two sides, repeating to roughly finish the face. The final finish is then done with a hand axe. Here is link to video of that process- ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9R6b1wp8JrY.html. How does that compare to your method? The larger faces that were produced on granite by men in my grandfather’s generation were typically produced using plumb blocks and straight edge to ensure a more consistent plane. When it is not feasible to easily sight the larger area by eye and especially when the flat panel is captured within a raised border feature,, properly used plumb blocks were the most efficient and accurate solution, especially for surfaces that would later be polished, until larger machines replaced hand work.

@carolinasculpturestudio 9 месяцев назад

This is another video demonstrating the squaring of a rough piece of limestone, using only hand-driven tools. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ERrq5cDtL50.html It is another excellent resource for those wanting to cut stone accurately.

@chompers11 Год назад

Awesome work I love this stuff

@carolinasculpturestudio Год назад

Me too- There's nothing like cutting stone... Thanks very much.

@chompers11 Год назад

@@carolinasculpturestudio thank you for sharing this incredibly hard info to find

@carolinasculpturestudio Год назад

@@chompers11 You're welcome. This is the first project produced for my new Virtual Stone Carving Apprenticeship series. Check it out. ru-vid.com/group/PL_1Ai-Hj_MMN-dHVeTqtGRQF-EgBbTAql It provides much more rare and valuable training & experience for persons in many different pursuits. This work and related knowledge have needs to be preserved and shared, much like my Masters shared it with me. I hope these videos help others do the good work and keep it alive beyond me.

@artrosco1973 10 месяцев назад

Very cool

@carolinasculpturestudio 10 месяцев назад

Yup, it is very cool.. Thank you.

@sethwright8896 8 месяцев назад

Just finished watching the block squaring series, and I wondered if you could recommend the basic minimum set of chisels you think would be required to tackle this. I recently purchased a Trow & Holden 1" B, already have a grinder set up to sharpen carbide, and I'm trying to decide on a basic set of chisels to buy for it that will cover my fundamental basics to try a project like this. It quickly gets overwhelming since even for something like the 9 point that you frequently use, there are 3 widths and 2 lengths available from T & H. I apologize if you already touched on this in one of the videos, I think I've watched them all but its possible I missed it somewhere.

@carolinasculpturestudio 8 месяцев назад

If you’re planning to do this exercise in granite, it will be slow work with a short stroke B hammer. As long as you know that, it’s just what it is. For chisels to start, consider buying pairs of each of the primary sizes at the beginning if you expect to actively do much work. If you only buy one of each and do not properly anticipate the delivery time for a replacement, it can bring your work to a standstill. It’s also typical for new people to fracture carbide while learning (usually breaking off corners) which can significantly impair the tool’s life and utility. So I would consider buying two straight 5/8”, two round 5/8”, two wide scrapers (at least 1” if not wider) and two 1/2” 9 points for this squaring exercise. I’m not sure if T&H offer a 1/2” 9 point, but I rarely use any other size in my work. The 3/8” 9 point tends to dig in faster and the 5/8” or 3/4” 9 point doesn’t usually spin fast enough to produce work for carving like a 1/2” 9 point does. Not sure who we bought them from in Barre, maybe Granite City Tool. No one in Elberton makes them, either. The manufacturers generally use 3 pieces of carbide featuring 3 points incorporated during the manufacture of the carbide blanks, which are then laminated together to make a 9 point tool. Dividing 1/2” into thirds isn’t typically done. So I make my own using 1/2” square carbide cubes. if you find them, a 1/2” 16 point is a poor substitute for a 1/2” 9 point. In general, a 16 point is only used for finer work & not for rough-out work. I have many but rarely use any 16 point tools. The 9 points I use are relatively short (tool shank portion) which also helps them spin fast. The longer they are, the less they spin. I want mine to spin fast and easily to remove stone fast in the desired random pattern. As you progress, add 3/8” and 1/4” round and straight chisels for carving work. Rippers are excellent to have for many tasks including this exercise, but are typically granite-specific tools. Practice sharpening cheap junk chisels, pieces of metal or even wood blanks first. When you can do it well, then sharpen your carbide tools. It will help conserve carbide. Hope this help. If you have more question, feel welcome to ask here or get in touch directly via my website. Thanks for watching.

@sethwright8896 8 месяцев назад

@@carolinasculpturestudio Thanks for all the great info as usual. Good to know about the limitations of the B-series, it is just what I was able to acquire at the moment since I got it with a couple smaller carbide chisels (which it sounds like are still useful eventually) for half the cost of buying the tool new. T & H does offer a 1/2" 9 point, so it sounds like that's what I'll go with and round up a few of the others as well. I'm ok with slow for now, probably makes me less likely to screw things up. When I worked in a metallurgy lab, there was a sign next to the polishing wheels that said "Slow is fast" and 15 years later I still think of it often.

@carolinasculpturestudio 8 месяцев назад

@@sethwright8896 Glad to be able to help. I completely agree that slow is fast. If you watch enough videos, you’ll hear me saying that “little pieces are little mistakes.” You’ll do fine with a B hammer for now. Most of us work with what we have or could get. I still do. Using it will help you better understand the differences between B and D machines if you get a D machine in the future. One tip to remember- just hold tight enough to guide the hammer & chisel as you use your strength to press it into the stone. Don’t squeeze either with a death grip. Gripping it tighter is a natural tendency to help the tools work better. With hand machines, It’s a quick trip to numb hands. With the slower cutting (on granite) B machine, you may want to squeeze/hood tighter. Don’t. Keep a relaxed grip and push it into the work. Learning to do this will make you a much better craftsman. Keep us posted on your progress.

@hawkintelligence 5 месяцев назад

Is there any video that you break down your pneumatic system?

@carolinasculpturestudio 5 месяцев назад

These videos are on my channel but are not part of the VSCA Series Hand machines- ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RLXtT73iGYE.html F&K Hand machines- ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kHYlBgQmIBw.html Chisels, including those for pneumatic hammers- ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oX6OdiZAxMw.html In terms of plumbing, I have compressed air delivered through iron pipe that is installed on an angle to allow water to condense and be easily drained via ball valves at the end of the run. The air enters the studio pipe at a vertical section with similar drain. The taps for air to my hammers are angled up for the same reason. As a result, I have little to no moisture issues at the hammers. Thanks for watching. I hope these videos help.