Stackable Generator Assembly Guide 

Thanks. That's very kind of you to say.

I'm a long time subscriber of yours but might not of seen every recent video. Thank you for all your hard work. I have an idea that exploits magnetic movement in the context of three dimensions as opposed to the two dimensions that are normal with most rotor/stator assemblys. ​@@Motionmagnetics

@@916619jg Thanks for sticking with me for so long. Sounds like you are thinking like Howard Johnson with that idea.

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-G6cycmBwLb8.htmlsi=ewY-eTJKlMdBxJvY

Thanks. It's nice to see so many people contributing.

Thank you, and the same to you, my friend.

Good deal! Glad to hear it.

Interesting idea. Thanks.

What axis angle would be sufficient for this? What, if any impact would such a modification have on output other than differences from the reduced friction itself?

@@joes144 Follow the golden ration… allowing for a full rotation around the axis for each curve / line of magnets from top to bottom of the generator. Magnets can be oriented to create a steady flow from top to bottom, essentially physically copying the field expression captured when you freeze a magnet in water. Have the polarity such that the generator never sticks into one place but wants to finish a full cycle rotation once started.

@@meh11235 Interesting, however I'm having difficulty visualizing what you mean. Are you suggesting canting the magnets within the rotor such that the angle of each magnet can be set same/different, or are you suggesting a rotor with angled edge such that all magnets are at the same angle relative to the coil?

@@michaelh.9243 a mix of both, magnets set to same angle within the rotor and opposing inverted coils or stationary magnets between coils to cancel the magnetic drag that builds up by the coils being activated by the passing magnets. using the S side of the magnet or -coils for addition electrical force vector and drag negation.

Thanks for watching, and for the kind words. Glad to have you aboard. I'm 3D printing a new gear system for the generator right now. Looking forward to being able to test and share it with everyone. If you build one I hope you share a video of it. I'd love to see how it comes out.

Engine designer from Afrika... It's joke when this words i see together. 😂

Thanks. That's an interesting approach.

Brilliant,Thank for sharing this information, and all the best for the future looking forward to seeing your projects .

Thanks, so am I.

Thanks. I'll post a video once I have everything set up and can give it a proper test.

Send me a link to a video of it if you do. I'd love to see what you come up with. I'm designing and building the gear assembly now, so that should be the subject of my next video.

You're overly kind. I just hope people find it of use, in some small way. I haven't heard any updates about him in quite some time.

@@Motionmagnetics Yeah he just faded away. Stay safe and be careful out there bro, may the light protect you. Amin.

@@DejiAremu Thanks, I appreciate it.

Possibly. You can't tell by watching the video but there's a bit of airflow from the openings in the rotors and coil assembly that creates a fan-like effect, and you can feel air blowing lightly through the assembly.

That's a great way to go. They've been around for over 100 years and are very reliable.

Sounds good. Post your results, if you do. I'd love to see what you come up with.

Thanks. I just changed the link. They should also be up on Thingiverse in another day or so.

Thanks. The serpentine coil came from Robert Murray Smith. I credited him in my previous video.

When I get everything built and properly tested I may offer kits that would be made with a CNC machine, for greater accuracy and speed of build. It would take too long to 3D print kits with the old slow 3D printer I currently own.

You're welcome. They are fun to put together.

Thanks! Glad you're enjoying them.

It isn't connected to anything yet. So probably 5 min from the quick hand spin I gave it.

Thank you. I have. I like the way it's designed, but doubt that it works as described.

I haven't, but we'll all find out when I'm able to get everything put together and give it a proper test. I did forget to mention in the video that I added a drop or two of superglue to each strip of electrical tape to keep it secured. Thanks!

Thanks, and thanks for the suggestion.

Yes, I'm good, thanks. Hope you are as well. I have a machinist friend who is building the main drive shaft for the gear system. He doing this around his job, so the process isn't as expedient as one would like. Hopefully, he's finished in a week or two and then I can get back to testing the gearbox that I've already built. I should have a new video up soon after. Thanks for the suggestion.

You're not wrong. I had one of the rotor screws fall out the other day. Granted, it was one I hadn't tightened, but better to be safe than sorry. Thanks!

Thank you! Send me a link if you post a video of your own version later. I'd love to see what you come up with.

You're welcome. I look forward to hearing from you about your experience once you do.

I haven't tested them against different styles of copper windings. I picked them mostly for how easy they are to build, knowing nearly anyone could make their own. Most of what I'm doing with this design is streamlining it to make it simple and easy for anyone to build.

I'm setting it up to work with a gear system connected to a weight. I've only tested it with a pull cord and a hand crank so far. I wish I had shown the hand crank in the videos, as I've had it up to 184v. I haven't tried it horizontally, but that's not a bad suggestion. Thanks.

@@Motionmagnetics Standing straight up with a geared or pully system attached to a wind turbine would be awesome too. This is great, will be testing out when I get time

@@vintasalo Thanks. Send me a link if you get a chance to test one out and decide to post a video.

Whats you email address? ​@@Motionmagnetics

Thank you!

Good to hear from you, brother! I designed the generator to work as a stacked version of an axial flux generator, partly to cut down on the drag you get from Iron core generators at lower RPMs, but also to make it scalable to whatever your output power needs are. As I'm sure you know, the iron core used in standard generators is needed to produce both poles through the coil by completing the magnetic path, whereas axial flux generators place a south pole on one side of the coil and a north on the other side to create the same effect. It requires more magnets, but it cuts down on the drag. That's important to the final design, as it will employ a series of gears connected to a weight. So the less drag, the better. I'm unaware of any axial flux generators that push like poles at each other through the coils and would think that would require sturdier material than the 3D-printed rotors I'm using. Have you experimented with that orientation?

yes I have found that in my experiments using steal wheels from exercise bikes and large ring magnets and large coils that two magnets of different poles is not as good as one magnet on one wheel that flips polarity what you have there IMHO would be best suited as a motor. I could be wrong as my coils were wound around and around, not using the staggered method of winding as you are. Anyway brother a am happy to see your works and watch your videos.

@@sonsoftesladotcom8234 Do you have a video up of one of those experiments? I'd love to see what you came up with. Thanks for the kind words. Always great to hear from you, brother!

Thanks! I'd love to see what you come up with. I'm curious about the circuit board coil as well. I couldn't find a place to order it directly or I'd pick one up and test it myself.

You could very well be right.

My intent with this design is to make it simple and accessible to everyone. You're right, there are definitely more efficient and powerful methods to build one. The point of the flywheel will become more obvious when you see the full picture of what I'm building. There is method to what I'm doing. Hopefully, people will look at it when I have the entire thing finished and say: "Oh, I see it now!"

We'll find out together. I plan to keep working on it and posting updates until I have a finished version. It's definitely not a toy, but it's also more of a prototype. Once I have everything worked out I plan to put one together with a CNC machine.

@@Motionmagnetics That machine looks amazing, thanks.

I'm working on a gear system right now and have been doing a lot of tweaking and adjusting. I also had to switch some materials to Cut the cost until I have things more fully worked out. I don't have an ETA on my next video update yet, but things are moving forward.

@@Motionmagnetics great work man, I'm going to try replicate this system aswell ..in your next video please include the RPMs ,voltage of the whole system as well as amps produced ...it sure would help with calculations

Thanks. I might take you up on that. I would not have thought of polish remover. How ever did you arrive at that idea?

@@Motionmagnetics It has acetone in it, which is good for adhering ABS prints to glass if you melt abs into it. I tried that for ABS and it worked. Then I thought, I wonder if it works for cleaning it. So I tried it, and have been using it since. I've tried all kinds of things. Acetone straight doesn't work. Alcohol doesn't work either. But for some reason, fingernail polish remover, makes PLA stick like crazy. Even works on beds that are supposed to work without anything on them. I've never used gluestick. I built 3 of my own printers from scratch starting in 2016. The second one was a fail due to being way too big and not having a big enough budget for adequate parts. The third one I rarely use, now that I have a decent size printer that has two print heads on it. Let me know what size the gears need to be, and I can make them for you. I have a youtube channel of my own that I don't upload on anymore. The name of it is inventimark.

Ethanol?

@@Willrocs Isopropyl alcohol. I haven't tried Ethanol. I suspect no difference though.

Yes.

I assumed that kind of scenario, and had been thinking again about escapements. What if you used an actuator that would click the escapement forward (rather than a pendulum), based on the current RPM? This would then control the addition of energy to the flywheel when it was called for. It might also be cukoo-clock like to have a 2nd smaller weight which can be used to simply maintain RPM when there is little draw. Making the larger weight almost like a startup capacitor. Just saying that actually sparks another idea. This is big picture stuff though.. How about an electronic system of robotic weight selection. There is an advantage to this rather than simply increasing the size of a single weight.. If you are selecting weights from a structure that would be designed to be easily expanded, increasing the number of weights in the system, would increase the battery capacity without requiring a change to the basic generator and flywheel setup. Once your basic generation system is designed and printed for your power use requirements, the capacity of the battery could be expanded then, to whatever degree is practical for your input energy.. So add more solar, add another weight..

You're welcome, and thank you.

Thanks. The gears are pretty time-consuming to print, but I'm working on it.

Thanks. Happy New Year!

This actually is the gravity generator, I've just adapted the design. I'll share the STL files for the gear system later. I'm in the process of designing and testing a new version of them right now.

​@@Motionmagneticsi understand you my freind but this new design in this video i can't build it because there is some material does not exist in my country , all i need my freind a gravity generator of falling weight witch is takes a long time like 6 or 8 hours to reach the ground and thanks a lot you have a good heart i'm waiting for your reply

@@user-il1sj3mo3b Ah, I see. Sorry, you're dealing with that issue. Once I have 3D printed and tested the new gear system I'm working on I'll be happy to share the files. Hopefully, that will help you out.

It's possible. Wood is less sturdy though. I suppose they could be aluminum, but then that could cause eddy currents. The magnet faces are not pointed at them directly at the bars. Is there some effect from the metal? I'm sure, but I think it's negligible.

@@Motionmagnetics I imagine that under normal conditions it would be negligible. However, given that it is not the most efficient design, aiming to keep it simple and easily made at home), maybe it would be worth a try? Also, I can’t remember the term for it, but metals that aren’t magnetic do tend to be influenced by magnetic fields… maybe it’s specifically electromagnetic fields, either way a quick google will explain better than me anyway. There is actually a repelling force instead of an attractive one. In regards to the strength of the wood, 8mm wood rods should be plenty strong enough. I have forgotten how many you used in the rotors, but >3 and it should be enough. There isn’t much space that isn’t supported, and the load on the rotors should be relatively even front to back, so there wouldn’t be any twisting. There shouldn’t even be any side loading when the generator is actually spinning, thanks to the wonders of centrifugal force. It wouldn’t work as your MAIN rod, due to the weights. But your main rod has very little rotational mass if you consider the rod with other components removed. So even if wood was strong enough, it wouldn’t change much of anything replacing the main rod. Check out the numbers regarding the strength of balsa wood. Really, if the wood is decent quality, I think some pine dowels would be good enough. Unfortunately they’re sold in standard sizes at the hardware stores. Something like .0025 inches small than 8mm. For straightness, cutting a larger rod down to size would be best. Short of that, I guess balsa wood does tend to stay straighter than pine. Sorry for the essay. I have a semi-kinda almost similar project I’m working on.

@@thephilosopher13 I hope you'll post your results if you are working on something similar. I'd love to see how it comes out.

Thank you. I appreciate the kind words.

Thank you, much appreciated!

Thanks. I hope all is well with you as well. It's moving along. I'd prefer more quickly, but forward momentum is always a good thing.

@@Motionmagnetics sounds perfect...do you have WhatsApp or telegram?

Well, it certainly would be cheaper.

Inferring that you would DIY the electromagnet how would ensure each is the same strength? Where will the power for said electromagnet come from?

1. the electromagnet can be made the same as the stator part. 2. Neodymium magnets also do not have quite the same strength due to inaccuracies and impurities in the material. 3. the excitation can come from the battery and then directly from the generator or it can be self-excitation. like an asynchronous motor in reverse mode when it produces electricity. the residual, ambient, and ground magnetic fields provide the impulse and then ramp up to rated power in the avalanche. 4. Magnetic driver can be used to generate power for electromagnets (much lower total cost of magnets) 5. why because high performance neodymium magnets are expensive. an electromagnet can be made from cheap wire and the power of the entire machine can be changed with it. by changing the current in the electromagnet. 6. I probably won't find a neodymium magnet in the trash, but I can get enough wires for free from old fan transformers and various coils

I'm mostly going from the experiences of people I follow who have posted their experiences with different gear types. I'm currently testing a belted drive.

I'm not sure why there aren't more similar designs out there. It just occurred to me when I switched from using coils with metal cores to an axial flux setup that I could stack several of them together to increase the power output. Multiple people have commented that they have thought of something similar, but most of them haven't tried building one.

I just switched the link. Hopefully, that fixes it.

@@Motionmagnetics yup that did it thankyou, thingiverse is still showing 404 but the file transfer link works, now I just need to start buying the bits!

I plan to do that once I've tested it with a gear system and load.

@@Motionmagnetics your a rockstar...

You're welcome welcome welcome!

Good deal. Share the video once you do. I'd love to see how it turns out.

They are aligned from rotor to rotor with each north from one rotor facing a south on the next, and vice versa.

Agreed. I kept it simple and went with FDM.

Which part of the video did I mention that in?

At least 200RPM, but I'm testing it to run higher.

Not sure which video that was?

@@Motionmagnetics yeah i think i got It though the stacked halbach disks Will auto alighn. but for More contex log ago before youbuilt anything we were analizing the benefit of halbach. And you said that the wáy to get moreefficiency was to stack the disks with2 stators and 2 rotors in the middle. And you said "like inthis diagram" at the Time we werent aware of the múltiple stators and rotor consept

@@user-kj7vr8tt8p Hmm, well if I used a Halbach array with this design I'd put the coils around the rotor and place the magnets in a Halbach configuration on the edge of the rotor so it would pass by the coils but still be stackable.

@@Motionmagnetics right... I think i didnt make my self clear sorry. And thanks for the responce. Its a axial Flux. If only could draw It.

Might not have been your video.

Thanks. I've had it up to 184v at higher RPMs. I'm not certain of the watts yet, so I don't want to mislead anyone until I have more accurate numbers. I would guess at least 400w, but that's just a guess.

@@Motionmagnetics thank you so much for the replying brother, you said you have 184 volts right ? and if i m not wrong your coil is producing 2 and half amper , so it would be 460w , because watts is volts times amper , it would be very impressive , what is the rpm brother ? , and i was thinking, your magnetic rotor has magnetics arroung making a circle right, but what happend if you put more magnetics bellow those that are already in the circle, so it would make a second layer of magnetics improving the efficiency of your engine, because i think you are losing space putting only one layer of magnetic in that disk , may be because the increasing of the magnetic flux, you would also increase the amper and the power keeping the same space, GOD bless you brother and we are waiting for new videos, hug from brazil to you.

@@andersonsantos-lr7qu I'd say that's a pretty good guess on the watts. I'm trying to estimate on the low end as I'd rather exceed people's expectations than fall short. I didn't measure the RPM when I hit 184v. I'd guess over 700, but I'm not certain. Once I have something tested better I'll share some more accurate numbers. Thanks for the kind words.

Great idea!

Ok update if using plywood u need to coat it in some kind of sealer to the plywood it warped over the winter and using sealer should stop that and u will want to drill dozens of quarter inch holes in every plate so air can cool the wood they get very hot on a windmill and i found the centers and edges started to turn black and smelled like burned wood and if u paint it use white oil based paint

Oh ansd dont forget only use quarter inch plywood for the rotors and half inch for the stator

And osb can be used

No, it's designed to be connected to something like a weight with gears, or wind turbine.

Over 150v, at higher speeds. I don't have an accurate measurement of the amperage yet though.

@@Motionmagnetics thanks!

And here I am making sloppy soup. If you have some ideas on how to improve the design and the ability to present those ideas in video form, I'm open to suggestions and would be happy to watch your video if you send me a link.

Actually, that is how you make soup...

I haven't connected it to anything to get an accurate reading, but just giving it a quick spin it puts out between 60-100V. Not positive on the amps yet, but I believe it's around 5. I'll be able to get some more clear numbers once I set up the gear system. You're very welcome. I think it might work great for that application.

@@Motionmagnetics understood. Thanks again.

​@@MotionmagneticsHey man, sorry to trouble you again, but I'm actually trying to make your version of this now and so far things are going along really well, assembly wise. However, at this point of the video ( 2:37) , how much of a distance was there between the 2 rods within that 2 x 4? I just need to get a somewhat accurate length for a test spool of yarn before i actually use wire.

@@garybrown2039 No problem. I just taped the ends of the 59-inch string together and pulled the pegs snugly inside of the loop of the string and screwed them roughly centered to the 4x4. Depending on the size of the pegs you use it will vary somewhat from the distance of my pegs on the 4x4, but that doesn't matter as long as you have the correct length of the string formed into a loop and it's snug against your pegs.

@@Motionmagnetics understood. Thank you. I think i got it to work because the string somewhat fits in the 3d printed part. Its just a little loose but i think the wire will be fine.

I'm just a tinkerer with a bit of an imagination. Immerse yourself in information about the subjects you find interesting and let your mind wander. Try different ideas when you think of them, and always ask: "What if?"

Very Deep. Takes time.And long 🤔

I have a machinist friend who is building the main drive shaft for the gear system. He doing this around his job, so the process isn't as expedient as one would like. Hopefully, he's finished in a week or two and then I can get back to testing the gearbox that I've already built. I should have a new video up soon after.

@@Motionmagnetics thanks for getting back! Your design is great!