Ready Seal advertises 125 square feet of coverage per gallon, two light coats or one heavy. For 200 feet of a 6-foot privacy fence, you’ll need 20 gallons of stain to do both sides ((200x6x2)/125=19.2). You’ll only use twice as much if you use a sprayer not meant for stain. If you’re spending 10k plus on a cedar fence, at minimum get a decent sprayer specifically made for stain application for 50-100$. Personally, I got a Graco airless sprayer, extension wand, and stain tip since you need to reapply stain every 5 years or so, climate dependent. Watch a few videos of people spraying a fence (with a proper tip so stain doesn’t go everywhere) vs a brush/roller and you’ll definitely want to get a pump sprayer at minimum. The only reason you had to back-brush is because the sprayer you used wasn’t meant for stain and was shooting out blobs of stain instead of an actual spray. For a board on board fence, spraying is the only way to go if you remotely value your time. And don’t cheap out on the posts, get PostMaster posts. Look it up. And for a super clean look, do an image search for a board on board fence with cap and trim. Also note that the moisture content needs to be less than 14% for the stain to soak into the cedar (per Ready Seal). I got a Klein Tools ET140 Pinless Moisture Meter. I can save you $40 by saying that cedar moisture content is about 7% two weeks after installation. And that’s in the Midwest where it seemingly rains every other day. If it’s a new cedar fence, all you have to do is wait two weeks or get a meter to test it, then stain. No wood prep needed if it’s brand new. If you cheap out and use fir or pine, then you basically have to wait a year then prep/clean it before stain. The stain must be extremely well mixed, and the cans mixed together if using multiple cans. Just rolling the 5 gallon can around doesn’t cut it. I know from experience. Get two 5 gallon buckets with lids from your local home supply store and a long drill mixing attachment. Pour multiple cans in those and mix away with the drill mixing attachment. Make sure all that stain goodness isn’t resting in the bottom of the Ready Seal cans by shaking the hell out of the last gallon or so in the ready seal cans, then mix the contents of the two buckets together to ensure the stain is evenly dispersed between them. Lastly, get a few of the dollar cardboard paint spray shields and slide them under the fence as you stain for no mess at the bottom of the fence. Spending a couple of hundred for the stuff I just mentioned will save you a ton of time and grief vs just winging it with brush or paying someone to do it. It’d be $1500 at least for this guy’s fence if you paid someone vs $500 or so total (for a 100 linear foot 6-foot privacy fence) to do it yourself in an afternoon with the stuff I just mentioned. And you get to do it all over again in 3-5 years unless you let it go to hell like most people do. It took many hours for me to figure all this out, so for everyone reading this, you’re welcome and good luck.
what sprayer did you get and which tip? I got the handheld graco utlra airless one, i don't think i can spray oil based stain, is oil better than water based?
@@lopaksau I got a Graco Magnum sprayer, the extension, and a 411 tip, which is recommended for oil-based stains. I haven't seen a good argument to use water-based over oil-based, but there's got to be one, likely to do with fir or pine fences since the pressure treated wood doesn't soak up the stain like cedar does. Also likely in places with high humidity, where the oil can't soak in very well. If you're in the south you'll definitely want to check the moisture content and make your decision based on that. Mine is about 6-7% right now and it's been up 3 weeks or so, so I'm good to go. But for a cedar fence, you want oil-based for two reasons (and all the main fence guys on YT say to use it). It soaks into the wood, further protecting it, it can't chip off, and when it's time to reapply you just go over it again (but you still have to clean the fence before reapplication). Water-based has to come off completely each time, which means pressure washing the entire fence of every bit of stain. No thanks. I'm actually going to stain my fence tomorrow for the first time with the Burnt Hickory color. I'll come back and comment if I run into any unforeseen issues.
@@mappyfrappy thank you very much for the great info, really appreciate it, I only worked with water-based stain from benjamin moore on decks, it is pretty good. theres not too much of peeling. This time I am gonna try oil based stain on pressure treated wood. I am located in toronto, Canada. oh btw, are you using oil or water based product?
@@lopaksau Holy Hell. I just stained the majority of my fence (with Ready Seal oil-based stain, like I already mentioned). Get one of those white suits they sell in the paint isle. The videos I watched made it look like minimal over-spray happens. Ahh, no. I looked like I was in a stained version of Stephen King's The Mist. I was wrecked with over-spray. And insult to injury, I grossly underestimated the stain required to do the backside of a board on board fence. Easily takes 1.5 times, closer to double the amount of stain to do the back-side with the cross beams vs the good neighbor side. I've yet to see a comprehensive video that doesn't leave a whole lot of shit out. And no, I've got no interest in making one. That said, spraying is a whole lot quicker if you can get over the giant cloud you produce from doing so. Don't spray if you're worried about your neighbor's shit. I wore a respirator and glasses. Make sure you do also, cause it's messy.
I debated between those two as well. Very happy we went with light oak, less dark orange than the cedar and more natural like you said. It also lightens up a bit over time.
A 5 gallon drum covered about 115 ft. one side for me, so you'd probably want 10 gallons for 130 ft. both sides, or maybe even a bit more depending how thick you apply. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching
Have watched more videos on staining my fence and deck than I can count. Excellent video. Precise and useful information and the best one I have viewed. Thank you.
No need to apply heavy coats on it to try and make it cover. You will have to do two coats to make it look uniform. Just like paint, thicker is not guaranteed to make it cover in one coat. It takes time and patience. I feel you did a nice job on the fence, but I saw some comments where some of the folks talked about putting on a thicker coat.
I've watched a ton too. NOBODY explains the difference in stain absorption as clearly as you do. people need to know that if you use RS on smooth cedar it looks soooooo orange its ridiculous. I have been trying to stain smooth cedar for a long time to a slightly-darker-than natural color and its been brutal. I've gone through 12 gallons and 30 samples of stain trying to get that very refined deep kind of hazelnut or perhaps a light tan brown. rough cedar? no problem. any other FREAKING wood I've tried? no problem. even white pine because unlike asswipey cedar, its consistent (lol, can you tell that smooth cedar has been a source of torment? 😅). I wish we could share photos because I would show you the dozens of tests I've done (all labeled) and the different stains I've used. the problem is that smooth cedar looks so much more high-end/elegant etc. It's also so much more interesting than other exterior woods. Douglas fir would be great because of its natural reddish coloring but it ain't no cedar or cypress or redwood when it comes to longevity outdoors. and people who want cedar, want cedar. anyway, I think the process you explained was definitely helpful but the difference in stain absorption especially. ✌🤘👍
Thank you! I followed your instructions and used a combination of sprayer, roller and brush. Worked great! The good news is that a lot of the big box stores have sprayers with nozzles meant for staining decks and fences.
Starting this project next week and almost went with the cedar color till I watched your video. Definitely will be using the oak color. How’s the stain holding up a year later?
Yeah I was in the same boat, was fully planning to use cedar till I saw how dark it is. We've loved the light oak color and it's held up great for us. It's lightened up just a little bit over time, but still looks great. I literally had a lady knock on my door last week asking what stain it was so she could use it. Will probably do a quick re-coat every 3-4 years or so. Good luck!
@@legoandsushi Just posted an update on what it looks like now 2 years later if you want to check it out! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-05B_spCNgv0.html
The Sansin S.D.f applied as recomended by the munfacture will out perform any paint thinner based product. Also with this product it has a great recoat if done before it starts to fade 3-5 years in the Pacific North West. I Have been selling stain for 30 years . this is the best I've seen.
I put ready seal (redwood color) on a cedar rail fence. I put a very heavy coat on initially and the color faded alot after 2 years. I put another coat on and it darkened up nicely with better color than my initial application and it has retained it's color much longer. Used the same redwood color on my front deck and it looks awesome. Ready seal is a good product but it does require heavy applications to get that deep rich color. I like it better than regular stains because it doesn't show paint brush marks or runs and it really brings out the natural wood grain. I love the results but it is expensive and multiple heavy applications are necessary to get the expected results.
@@kturbo504 thank you! ReadySeal states that you should reapply every 3-4 years. The nice thing about this oil-based stain is you can just clean the surface and reapply right over top of the existing layer, no need to remove it beforehand.
I always apply readyseal stain with a good 4" brush. I stained my deck and about 340 linear feet of privacy fence this way. Sure it takes longer, but 7yrs later and my fence still doesn't look bad, but I'm finally restaining it this summer. Saw this video looking to see if I should try other methods, and I feel like the brush method puts it on thick and lasts the longest.
Great video. On Amazon it says it lightens up after 14 days. Did yours lighten up? Do you still like the color you chose if it did lighten up? I was thinking about pecan but I do like the color of yours. 👍
Thank you! It definitely lightened up a bit, but not tons. I haven't noticed any fading in the several months since applying either. We love the Light Oak color on our western red cedar fence. Honestly, I'm not convinced there's a real massive difference between Light Oak, Cedar, Pecan, and Redwood. A lot of how it looks depends on the wood you're staining, which you'll notice with how different some of the review pictures look. Check out this video, might be helpful in deciding: m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0-8eBQ2EsXk.html
Just applied this for the first time using the handheld pump sprayer, one thing I did different is get a flat nozzle, found it sprays a lot more consistent. Did go back with a roller on it just in case. Great work and great fence you have there!
2024 and same stain is $175 on Amazon now. Inflation. I bought 10 gal of Ready Seal based on general recommendations. Didnt realize that Ready Seal only covers 125 sq.ft. gallon. Looks like I need about 40 gallons! Yikes at total cost!
We are very pleased with the light oak. I was worried it would be too yellow but not at all. Obviously depends a lot on the wood too. If/when I do it again I'll definitely try and get my hands on a decent sprayer!
This is a great video, kinda what I was looking for. I really like the color of stain on the cedar. It might have been mentioned, being the video is like 2 years old, but wouldn't an electric HVLP sprayer and back brushing or rolling be the way to go. I have 2 sprayers and they are only $30-40 each on Amazon.
Thanks for the comment! Yes you're 100% right, an inexpensive sprayer is the way to go. I just decided to use what I had lying around, but well worth the $40 investment to save the time and effort. Thanks!
Both sides. And it's looking great, here's a recent update video I posted, hope it's helpful! m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-05B_spCNgv0.html
Thanks for the comment! I just "cleaned" it out with water, and ran a bunch of water through it. It is now my dedicated stain sprayer because it's definitely not all the way clean! You could probably get it pretty clean using paint thinner or mineral spirits
Yes it does have pigment, but seems to be the lightest of all the shades and should bring out the natural color of the wood the best. Honestly the wood you apply it to has a lot to do with how it looks. I applied to western red cedar so it has a bit of an orange/red/brown hue. If you applied it to pine or oak it would be less red. Hope that helps!
Is there a specific color you're looking at? They do vary a bit. Right now it's about $170 for Natural Cedar. Still a better price than Home Depot ($199) for now! amzn.to/3RDxzFX
I power washed it a few days before staining, but only gently to remove any loose dirt or dust. It was a brand new fence so there was no need to remove any old stain or mildew.
Since it's oil based and not water based, all you need to do is clean the surface of any dirt or build-up (very light power wash or hose jet spray) then let it dry for a few warm days and reapply right over the top. No need for chemicals or stain remover. Very simple process.
Coming up on two years now and it still looks great. It's lightened up some, but still looks really nice and uniform. I'll probably recoat after three years.
Just posted an update on what it looks like now 2 years later if you want to check it out! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-05B_spCNgv0.html
Not a dumb question at all. Easiest way I've found is just basically shake it - tip it side to side and upside down a whole bunch to mix up any that has settled to the bottom. Just make sure the cap is on tight!
It's been two years and it's still looking good. It's faded a tiny bit, but won't need a re-coat for another year or two probably. I'll try and post an update video soon.
It's been just over a year since I originally applied it and it's still looking great. I imagine I'll add a new coat every 3-4 years to keep it looking nice.
Not at all. That's the beauty of oil based vs. water based... Assuming the wood is properly dry, the oil-based stain/sealer will soak into the porous wood rather than sitting on top like paints and water based products, which end up peeling.
Just posted an update on what it looks like now 2 years later if you want to check it out! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-05B_spCNgv0.html
It's holding up great after just over a year. It lightens up a bit in the weeks after applying, not since then. No regrets and I even used the same stain on another section of fence I built. Thanks for watching!
Just posted an update on what it looks like now 2 years later if you want to check it out! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-05B_spCNgv0.html
It's been two years and still looks great. It has faded a little bit of course, but definitely doesn't need to be re-applied yet. Will try and post a follow up video soon.
Just posted an update on what it looks like now 2 years later if you want to check it out! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-05B_spCNgv0.html
Definitely both. Ready Seal is a stain & sealer, so in addition to looking nice it protects the fence from weathering, rotting, fading, UV rays and more. Without stain, cedar and other woods will look pretty ugly within a couple years
Just finished my fence using your suggestions...except I bought a pump sprayer with nozzles meant for staining. It definitely went pretty darn fast though I still hit it with a roller just to smooth things out. FYI, 5 gallons of that stain right now on Amazon is $175. Still cheaper than Behr. Thanks again for the video!
Nice! Yeah I probably could've finished it in half the time if I had the right nozzle haha. Definitely plan to use that in the future! Appreciate the comment👍
Do you need to do both sides for protection,I’m installing a privacy fence over my cyclone fence on one side of yard,once installed I won’t be able to access the backside due to not being able access as it is in my neighbors yard
That's a great question. What wood are you using? It will definitely help with longevity to do both sides so they're sealed and protected. But in my non-expert opinion, if you don't stain the backside, as long as you're using rot resistant wood like cedar, it would take a really long time for any kind of decay or rot to form and the make its way from the unstained backside to the front side. It would look really ugly on the backside after a few years but sounds like you'd never see it.
I put a tire valve on my pressure spray and used a compressor to pump up my sprayer. 32 PSI was fine but I did go higher. no brush or roller was needed. Very fast and easy
💥 Thank you. This was helpful. I’m trying to find something to preserve the new appearance of the cedar and prevent it from turning grey but nit alter the color too much. This seems to be more of a stain that changes the color. I have a 50’ long fence, two sides so 5 gallons seems to be more than enough.
From what I've read and experienced, the pigment in a stain helps to protect the wood from fading or discoloring from sunlight and weather, along why I the actual oil/sealant of course. Transparent sealers don't seem to do quite as well or last as long as semi-transparent which is what this is. I also wanted to bring out the natural color as much as possible, so I chose Light Oak which is their lightest shade. But it definitely does add some color. And yes, 5 gal should be plenty for your needs. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! It's been almost two years since staining and it's holding up really well. Color has lightened up a bit but still looks great. I will try and make a quick video update in the coming weeks.
Just posted an update on what it looks like now 2 years later if you want to check it out! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-05B_spCNgv0.html
Thank you for the comment! The biggest "prep" is just making sure it's dry enough to accept the stain. I waited a few months after installing the fence to apply the stain. I did also very lightly power wash a few days before staining it to get any dust/dirt off. But that's it for prep! It has held up really well. It's a bit lighter now than what you see in the video right after it was applied, but still looking great. My guess is I'll re-apply after 3-4 years. Nice thing is you can just clean it and re-apply right over the top, no need to strip the wood or remove it. Hope that helps!
Just posted an update on what it looks like now 2 years later if you want to check it out! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-05B_spCNgv0.html
Good question... I did 125 feet of 6' fence (750 sq feet) and it took me about 5 hours with pump sprayer, roller, and brush. If you're using a good sprayer that will cut your time in half at least. Maybe that will help you calculate a time and cost estimate.
Glad it was helpful! I only did one coat and used two 5 gal. buckets. Had a tiny bit left over after about 125 ft of 6' fence both sides. The way I did it was slow, but almost zero waste/overspray compared to if you use a sprayer, definitely a trade off.
It has held up really well through all four seasons out here in Utah, really pleased with it. I'd say it's lightened up a little bit, but nothing major. Will probably re-coat in another 2-3 years. Good luck with the project!
It took me 10 gallons to do about 115 feet of 6' fence, both sides. It varies if you're using a sprayer or not, sprayers typically require a bit more stain
@@bayodaman Just posted an update on what it looks like now 2 years later if you want to check it out! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-05B_spCNgv0.html
I built the fence and let it sit for about 3 months in the hot summer sun. Then LIGHTLY pressure washed it a few days before staining to get any dirt or dust off. Seemed to work well.
@@gigatube24 yeah I covered them where possible, but it wipes off of metal super easily so was no big deal if I got some on there (which I did). Just wipe it off soon after applying and don't let it dry.
