Stainless Vs Alloy | How to choose the right Propeller 

A good prop on the water is important in rugby and on the water both give you good go forward and better economics... Hull shot sounds like it would be a red card offence in rugby though. Thanks for the video Sammy, great info as usual!

Great info mate. I lose a little top end for hole shot and manoeuvrability, makes for safer bar crossing 👌👍

Steamed past a pretty good prawn/threadfin spot a few times 👍 these videos are great to see, G'day guys!

Great video, I found the prop is just as important as the motor and boat. You don't realise it until you find the right prop for performance. Some boat dealers don't give any information on props as the deal is already done?

Good tip at the end: up here in territory where we fish shallow rock bars etc alloy prop is the go. Definitely saves the gearbox when you hit them with an alloy vs a stainless 👍

I really like this vid mate. Not much out there with this info. I trialled 3 props before getting a winner for my 140 Zuke. Keep the vids coming mate!

I coducted a similar experiment myself, testing cans (aluminium) versus stubbies (glass). I also tested various colours of glass from the standard brown to green and even the clear. Unfortunately i cant remember which was best....

i know next to nothing about boats but that was still somewhat enjoyable

As long as at wide open throttle you can reach your top rev range it’s fine, if you can only get to 4500rpm the motor is not going to like that and you will get oil dilution

Did the SS 17"" pitch prop cause the engine to exceed the motor's rated WOT RPMs or hit the limiter at WOT?

If one a tight budget, start hunting around your local motor repairers prop pile, prices start from about $50 each depending on condition, and a good oxy welder can resolve minor dings, so you could literally pay 1/4 of a new prop, but be mindful of the inner vulcanized centre as they do lte go after a few good years in dark storage

Ohhh nice...i may have to upgrade on my suzuki. 🤙

You could try a 4 blades prop gives my boat more performance.....Mercruiser 425 HO... stainless steel gives more galvanic corrosion....

I just put a brand new white colored suzuki 140hp motor. It came with a 17 pitch aluminum propeller and I'm hitting the Rev limit and I'm not yet but very close to full throttle. Do you think a stainless 17 pitch prop will be better so I can get to full throttle and not over Rev?

Great video! I know it’s been awhile since you’ve purchased the prop but what brand is the stainless prop you finally decided with? I cannot find a Suzuki made 13 7/8 stainless prop? Is yours a different brand? Looking to change out my Suzuki Aluminum 14x19 on my df140 too.

Good video mate

I have a stainless prop on my 150hp zuke. Great props, really happy with it. I get unreal fuel economy and mid range speed. Interesting to see the alloy performed not that far back from the stainless. would be a good backup prop.

Excellent explanations, good video but please put those who thought the background music in jail: unbearable 🤬

off topic, what simrad display are you using?

Rad Man!

Found this really interesting. Probably won't put a stainless on my 40hp 2 stroke, but when that upgrade comes, I'll be informed 👌👍

How many split pins and bolts did you drop in water😂👍

What fuel economy were you getting with the old yamaha. My 115b gets 3.3km per litre same speed and rpm. Should add speeds to the video in subtext. Nice one sammy 👌

Well he was very helpful, stainless is the was to go outside, BUT there is one other option that gives better results across the board, A 4 blade prop.. l ordered one from Solas Prop's, even the pitch on the blades were taken into account, including boat brand and size, motor, expected boat weight, whether conditions, and prefered speeds. the prop l got was smaller than my original but put out far more thrust using less rev's and Fuel. unfortunately l sold that prop when l upgraded boats, didnt think fast enough.. My last 3 boats have all run stainless props, with backups on board,.. including a decent shifter, extra grease, nut, washer and split pins. why the extras, because they don't float

Keep the smaller prop on hand in case you need catch a 3 metre flatty

Most people don’t know that the astm speck for all cotter pins reads “ the pin is required to be bent ONE time and not show any evidence of cracking. “

The performance is less important . if you hit a stone or wood close to the coast or on deep waters you know what the difference is on your repair costs. an aluminium prop between $ 100 and $ 200 a complete drive about $2000 enjoy your SS prop.

I never go stainless because if you hit something there is no give except destroying the lower drive.

What is your average fuel economy with the new motor at sea?

It's a "cotter" pin, gentlemen... After old man Cotter that invented them...! It better be an improvement for $400 US... lol (Lower Pitch = Lower Gear Higher Pitch = Higher Gear)...

Do you live on the sunny coast mate?

Simple🤗Big engine: Stainless, Small engine: alloy 😉

Stainless vs aluminum

Jindalee ramp?

Wherewere.you.on.the.hawkesbury.

Stainless props are always superior to alloy. altho if your the type that struggles to back your trailer down the ramp, you can blame drive line failures On the prop to cover your poor navigation.

stainless is an alloy

Could you please reupload it without that horrible tiring background music 🤮

How much dollars we talkin

Can really understand anything with the annoying music in the background

Stainless shits all over alloy in every way.

Couldn't watch with music over it makes no sense