Very informative John... Didn't understand a thing, but very informative... I wish I had a younger brain to absorb some of this info that you kindly and freely give.
Great video, converted mine a while back to 12v using the Boondocker kit with an average of around 45w to 60w draw in use and booting the dish. Mine is flat mounted using the 3d printed files from Everlanders via thingverse. Self printed it at home and you keep most of the dish intact (you just remove the motor section) so easier to keep it weather proof. Everlanders did a good video on how to cut the dish too, the cable runs very close to the outer edge, so start with a smaller hole and enlarge, dont ask how i know :) Hope you both keeping well Rich and Cooper
I found the 12-48v buck boost converter to be electrically “noisy”. Adding a couple of ferrite beads and a 1000uf 64v electrolytic capacitor on the 48v output cleaned up any ripple on the 48v DC resulting in the same data speeds as the standard setup.
Hey John you can't router like that here in Australia, but thanks for the tips. A root is a sexual act and a rooter (as you pronounced it ) is a person undertaking that act. The kids thought it was hilarious.
Another thing to add is the inverter loss, this will depend on which inverter you use. My testing with a Victron 3000VA on AC to 12/48v kit, I had seen savings of 1kw per day!!
The Starlink Mini has just been launched in Europe (27/07/2024), like the standard dish there are two different service plans. It runs on 12v and is much lighter than the standard dish (2.5lb or 1.1k) I have just ordered one.
It’s still not available in the UK and when it is there’s likely going to be limitations on speed, as is the case in the USA, and it’s only available if you’re already a residential Starlink customer.
Hello John, I’ve been experiencing mixed results when the Starlink router is not connected. The main issue is that I have internet access at my router, but the Starlink app indicates it’s not connected, preventing me from performing a speed test. I noticed that when you show the phone image saying "Online," it only displays an image of the dish, while mine displays an image showing the router with a line to the dish. Do you recommend turning the "Bypass" setting on in the app for the Starlink router, which removes the router image? I’d prefer not to use Bypass, as I want to keep both options available without having to unplug 6 times, which is required to reset the Starlink Router to remove bypass. Thank you!
I have the same product but keep haveing disconnected issues all the time amd when I contact the company they told me I not pulling the right amount of current wich I pull around 5amp and they saying at 12v it shoukd be 150W and 15amp so just wanner know if yours pulling 15amps cause that sems pretty stupid
I thought the same until Starlink said the mini dish is only going to be sold to existing Starlink customers with a static setup. There are also stipulations the mini dish cannot be used for roaming or when in motion. The final limitation of the mini dish is the speed restriction they impose. So it seems the mini dish isn’t going to be a realistic option for Vanlife.
@@GadgetJohn thank you for that John. I have been watching many US videos over the last few days and I think restrictions costs and speeds may have moved on a bit over the last week or 2 ? I suppose time will tell as to what becomes available here ? Enjoy your gadget video's and please give our best wishes to Mandy.
Great content. The conversions both gave dramatically less speed. 120Mbps with OOKLA when using native starlink products and then 50ish using the better 12v product. Any views on why?
Great content John. I was amazed that in flat mode it performed as good as tilted. It does look like those kits are just PoE injectors. Can you confirm that ?
Try most possible not use an inverter is my experience. Stay at 12 volts if possible. The inverter always has an inefficiency, dissipation that goes out in heat. I do charge my laptop and other stuff with a USB-C cigarett adapter connected to my van living battery. It is a DC-DC adapter converter that feeds most of the stuff I use with the right voltage, from 12 volts up to 21 volts. One of the only few things that I have to use my inverter for is to charge my electrical bike. Its impossible to find a DC-DC charger for it that supply 42 volts, 2-3 amps.
@@GadgetJohn I think you are right there. Do you know any adapter/regulator if you want to be able to charge your leisure battery from your main engine battery? This of course only while driving your van and the car generator is active.
Ecoflow has released a DC-DC alternator converter to connect to their power stations. Apparently it connects to the engine battery and starts working when the engine battery is charged from the alternator during driving. It feed it to the Ecoflow DC-DC converter, that converts it up to 42 volts to minimise amperage and charge the Ecoflow power station. It also has a possibility to reverse charge, to feed the engine battery from the power station.
Dang it, ordered the Xstar Link last week and its on route to me.... Are you getting any over heating from the other 12v conversion unit you installed? Might have to get that...
As a technophobe, and low usage person, this beautifully demonstrates that Starlink in any form is beyond my level of patience and comprehension !! Thank you John for explaining the systems so beautifully. I’m still brain fogged , must watch again to make more sense of it all😢
