Both old early 80s John Deere backhoes I worked with needed ether to start no way they would start without it. Interesting about the synthetic oil something to keep in mind.
Hope you get it figured out Wes. I did notice one other problem though. I know this is going to hurt alot when i tell you and i'm sure you already know. I think the old girl is going to need some new shoes. MORE DAMN TIRES!!!! LOL!
I had an engine do the same thing last year. Filter plugged up, blobs of gunk in the pan. Pulled the oil pan drain plug off and nothing came out! Stuck my finger in the drain hole and pulled out a blob of gunk. Turned out to be coolant slowly seeping into the oil gallery from a crack around a head bolt. It only happens when the coolant system is pressurized. The water evaporated out leaving the ethylene glycol behind which gelled the engine oil.
The thinness of the oil dripping from the dipstick suggests that at operating temp, the viscosity has dropped hard and your engine acting "tight" is actually becoming un-lubricated. A can of STP per four quarts of oil, should fix it, or at least help reduce it's tendency to tighten up some.
I would check the fuel filter and air filter before opening up the engine. if the temp on the engine is not showing overheating the odds of the bearings getting tight is slim. most all oil systems have a filter bypass built in bobby bethel old machanic
What an awesome tractor even with her issues. I would LOVE to get my hands on a 4320. Love the channel, Wes! You're one of my all time favorite RU-vidrs.
U should definitely check cam bearings too another important passage of oil everyone tends to ignore which will take beaten and never build oil pressure correct if worn
Cool video! Love the sound of the old john deeres! How long have yall been quit milking? could you do a video of the inside of the barn and milking parlor?
Why do Deere's love ether so much anyway, my grandfathers loader has the same motor as your 7810 I believe and it would need a healthy shot of liquid courage after sitting in the heated shop all weekend at 55, same goes with most Deere tractors/iron from the 80's/90's I've been around
flush it first put a few pints of paraffin in with engine oil run it drop the oil refill and try it again before stripping the bottom end out also just inspect the big ends and mains wes just in case its something else holding it back you do great videos
sounds pretty good for a 42 year old tractor I had this same thing happen to a 1989 ford ranger I bought in june of 2013 I bought it with 98k original miles and the oil was horrible ,nasty,and it was sludged up terribly ,, well stupid me I changed the oil and used full synthetic oil ,, well I had exactly the same thing you are dealing with on your 4320 deere ,, it sat for 3 months after the oil change and all that crap ended up in the pan and plugged up the oil pickup screen I have to pull the engine out of it and put new bearings in the engine due to the making a little noise ,, I parked it as soon as this happened so hopefully I didn't permanently damage the engine
42 years ago, they never had the machining tolerances of today's modern engine, so you shouldn't put pish thin synthetic oil into an old engine because the crank can't hold the oil to build up pressure bud.
ether is like heroin, once they get use to it, they want it everytime. Crank the steering wheel back and forth while cranking, it works wonders. (from an old timer)
I guess it relieves some pressure on the hydraulic pump. On a related note, I remember the power steering disappeared when you were reversing carefully on the clutch. My dad still uses her regularly...
I would love to have that tractor down here in Chile. Could you flush it out with diesel or a cleaner that would remove the gunk and then put new oil in it?
The Old His of there area are cold blooded as hell to. Every 806 I ever ran needed a good snort to get it going in the morning. Same way with the 1206 too. I don't know what the deal is with that but they always ran good and had plenty of power for what we do. They always rolled black smoke too! haha
i think that you have ruined your piston rings whit the starting fluid, and that's why they are not starting good. If i can start my -55 nuffield in -30c without any heating or starting fluid or shit, whit only 1 cylinder that had proper compression i bet that all famous jhon deere should start with just the as good :)
Black smoke = engine low compression or worn out injectors pissing too much. if you have no glow plugs or grid heater it's normal for it to start with difficulty. Starting fluid is not good. piston rings take a huge stress because of the too quick combustion. Starting fluid is for gas engines working with spark. they have a lower compression ratio and can handle it. But when you cranck the engine you clearly can hear the compressions are uneven. the engine is hobbling.
True but that is what john deere intended with these for whatever reason, they have no grid heater or glow plugs, most have a little push thing under the steering wheel in which you shove the ether can into and it sends the ether directly to the intake manifold
Correct me if I'm wrong but didn't the old 4320's have 2 oil pumps? Since you're going to do the main and rod bearings, check the wrist pins as well. She does sound good. The old 2 cylinder and 10/20 series were always good tractors from JD.
Just a thought, you may want to get a hack saw and cut the ends off that old filter and pull the paper out. If you pull the paper out flat on a clean place ( white paper towel down first ) you can see what type of metal is in the filter, or if there is any metal at all. I have done this before and it gave me a good idea of what was going on with the tractor engine before I went to work on it. Good luck with the repair!
Wes, I only skimmed comments, but I'm in school as an automotive tech, and the thing you have to watch on putting an old motor (looser tolerances) on synthetic oil (designed for tighter tolerances) is the top end will knock if it sets for any time at all because it's smaller more uniform molecules drain out of the heads, causing premature wear. I know you can fix it and probably know all this, but I figured since I'm about as up to date as they come at the moment on engine tech, if share what knowledge I have on it
Im almost certain that John Deere original oil filters have a bypass relief valve at the bottom end of the oil filter, so if the filter plugs the oil gets through, More likely to be the oil pump filter gauze that's blocked,
sounds like the pan will be full of gunge and as wyliecyote says the oil pickup screen is most likely plugged up as well thats my diagnosis hope im correct if iam give me a shoutout user name is the cyclist
(Im guessing at a distance) so when you pull the sump off check the oil pick up as it may be partially blocked. it happens on old motors through mixing different grade oils or lack of changes. Also oil pressure relief valve gunked up or have a weak or broken spring too. That can give the same symptoms (low oil pressure). If the oil pickup has a mesh screen take it off the pump and put it in a bean tin with some gas and set it alight and let it burn the oil off. It will turn to carbon and be easier to clean without wrecking the fine mesh.
Won't take to long to pull the pan and clean it cheaper than ten filters and oil and you'll know what you have good video Wes it will make a good video
Hi Wes Being a Deere man i figured you'd know the story of bad starting when the sun goes behind the clouds, those older Deeres and some newer ones don't start good for some reason!. I've had bleed green and yellow die hard Deere guys, tell me that locally as well. I'm not going to lecture you on either theres no point your a smart guy and know how much is just enough and to much! i did figure that battery was near flat and it surprised me that she did fire up. Good luck on the crank bearings ,i hope she's not scored or picked up on the crank. That would be a shame. That old girl must be as old as you, Its 2 years older than me. i think thats what our age gap is between us 2 years I'm 40 . Regards Robert
If your using Easy Start you should warm the can up with hot water, or a hot air gun so when its sprayed into the intake its a mist or vapour, spraying it in as a neat liquid is what jiggers the engine up. You could even use hair spray or WD40 as long as its a mist,
do not put synthetic oil in an older motor--a mechanic did it to one of mine and it cleaned all the carbon from rings etc--now the mongrell thing has gone from using no oil in 10 000ks to using a litre per hundred ks... I could kill the sob
I operated first a 3020, then in later years three different 4020s including one FWA. Loved everything about them, the look, the sound, shifting, ease of steering, angle of the steering wheel, high platform and seat... Best tractors ever made IMO.
Just have to love those synco shift JD had, always fun as kids to learn a new shift pattern when you went to your friends farms. We has IH with standard H-pattern another ran Deere's with power shift, power quads, and sycro's and the dentist's behind us had your favorite Oliver with the over under shift.
