I've learned a lot about steam-bending and I'd like to share a little with you. I use these rims on many of the DIY banjo kits that you can see over at www.carverbanjos.com
Outstanding! this is my first time viewing a banjo rim being made. I was searching for electric banjo topics and your name came up in one you might have manufactured in the past. Thank you and great job👍👍
Wow....I'm impressed. I make stave drums, but you're giving me ideas.... now I wont sleep for weeks unless I try it for something new...🤣🤣 I dont know the first thing about steaming but it looks fun. (Edit... I just noticed your D.F.D. sticker....NICE!)
thank you. kiln dried- soak 3 days, steam 45 minutes, leave in bending form 24 hours. Trim, glue and into the drying form for 3 days. No need to pre-soak green wood but the trade off is it will take an extra 3 days before it is ready to take out of the drying form, shooting for under 10% moisture level.
Hello Mr. Carver, I am curious as to how long the plank of wood is to make that 12" rim and also what the size (diameter) of the dowel jig is, the one that you originally wrap the wood around. Would it be 12" or smaller? Also, what is the material that you use to assist in bending the wood? Brilliant work here!
the jig will be the inner diameter of the rim. if you want a wall thickness of 1/3" and outer diameter of 12"- use 11 1/3" jig. You'll need a board about 1 foot longer than (3.14*diameter). This jig has a backing strap (very important). Made from an old sanding belt. You can also use thin metal, but edges are sharp and I've cut myself many times with these.
Thanks for posting this. I've always had lots of questions about the process. Most rims are multi ply. Is added strength the reason. I always wondered if the lamination dulled the tone. You are young, as I was once. A work bench that allows you to stand will save a lot of wear and tear on your knees and back. I know. I used to work like that. Wish I had not. Cheers!
Thank you, and you are right, I should get up off the floor when bending these. I think ply is used because it’s a lot easier to bend and build up a thicker rim as opposed to bending one very thick piece. I’d say the laminations have a negligible impact on tone as long as there are no voids.
I'm curious about how you know where to cut (5:00). Is there a method you use to make sure the two tapered ends match up in the mold you put it in next? Or do you just do it by eye and adjust any inconsistencies in thickness while sanding?
the tapers would only need to match/be exact if they were coming into contact with each other. you see I cut the outside and the inside and then glue the uncut (flat sides) together. It is easy to eyeball before removing from the first bending form. then the inconsistencies are sanded out once the glue has dried
Brian: I have a mountain banjo whit no relief in the neck, its straight no angle what so ever. Is there any way to lower the action a bit on a older mountain banjo with a straight neck? Thanks Richard
Hi Richard, I can only speak for my own mountain banjo design, but you should be able to alter the joint where the neck attaches to the body. An easy fix might be just trying a shorter bridge if possible.
@@brncrvr thank you for the reply, i made my first rim last week, your tutorial is very good, and using your method of bending, the rim came out brilliant, thank you very much
How do you make your bending forms/jigs? Everything else you do is this video is very straightforward. I see the repurposed sanding belts and ratchet strap, I’m just not sure how you made the forms/jigs. I’m wanting to get into steam bending to make a rim out of oak.
Glued together layers of plywood I cut using a special router jig. You’ll have to do some calculations and head-scratching for the form to meet your needs. Self-made jigs and forms are probably my most guarded (secret) tools.
