That was going to be question as well; use a compass on the center mark to get a circle, find the appropriate depth, and then run the bandsaw down the length a bunch of times until it's just outside dimension. I'm a big fan of "use the most efficient tool as long as possible," but not sure if it would be as accurate in the end if it weren't done her way.
arouynd <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="320">5:20</a> long interrupted cut. Could one have made it easier for the tool by cutting away bulk of the material first? be it on bandsaw or other methods
You did not make an error in the last video, it was an engineered design choice to allow indexing of the steam chest to prevent inadvertently interchanging of the steam chests. ( And I thought I would never use my engineering reports again). Great video. I watch every one.
Never did any real machining besides of playing with a small Proxxon lathe for less than an hour total, so not qualified to give any wanted or unwanted advice, but watched dozens of your videos including both beginners series .. Couldn't that first punchmark be done on the mill, too? With edge finding, DRO and a center drill? Just to know if I sometimes in the (probably quite far) future do find the space and time to get some machine tools. My feeling is "this is good enough, and takes 10% of the time and no additional mill setup". Or is there another reason?
Hi Quinn! When you made the boiler, you were very careful to avoid brass getting in contact with steam, since the steam might leach the zinc out of the brass. Is that not an issue for the steam that reaches the steambox? Just asking for my own education, I have no clue about steam engines and first heart about dezincification from you.
The amount of work going into your locomotive is astonishing. Every step is tedious and has to be very accurate because of the scale. Can't imagine the full-size version being within a 16th of an inch. You're working within a thousandth of an inch just to keep it in scale. You would have been a super machinist in 1910. Great video, Quinn. Love your work and Chanel.
My OCD on screw heads not being aligned has been triggered. I continue to really enjoy this series and hope to have a windfall one day where I can set up a mini machine shop to play along.
<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="34">0:34</a> Drawing Copyright 2021? Did past Quinn already know present Quinn will blow the dimension, but thought it would be funny just to be quiet and watch? 😂
Guess she printed that at the same time as the other drawing with a past date, she said she forgot to update the template at that time, so, same problem here.
<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="270">4:30</a> - interrupted cut. Would it have been easier to chop a cube off each end with the bandsaw to remove a chunk so the lathe tool wouldn't have to do all that work?
I was listening to a steam engine audiobook for reasons, and they mentioned how the nut that compressed the packing material around the shaft could be tightened and loosened to change the level of play that the shaft had as it moved through the cylinder. Is that something you lose when you move to O-rings? Does it not really matter?
Hi Quinn, awsome job!! But one thing that the video leaves me wonder is the use of brass for a part that will be in contact with hot steam instead of bronze. I heard somewherr (May be on your channel), that the zinc in the brass, gets corroded when exposed to hot steam, making the parts fail, while the tin in the bronze is not affected.
Really enjoy your channel. So clearly explained. I wonder why you don't use a shop vac to collect shavings? Blowing or brushing them off seems to be just another step. Thanks.
Quinn, you could have made the steam chest according to the original print and, after finishing, then trimmed the outside edge to your new dimension. A lot less thinking and checking when machining.
I really like the attention to details on the handedness of parts... when you said how easy it would be to miss that and scrap the parts, I know what you mean. I do electronic prototyping and getting things flipped over and or backwards has screwed me up before... and the most infuriating times when that happens is when you are aware of it and THINK you've compensated for it, but actually were mistaken and would have done it right if you hadn't second guessed yourself... and... well, you probably know that feeling too. Grrrrrr.... But Great job keeping track of all that asymmetrical details, major source of headaches and error if not done just right.
At the beginning, you werent putting the parallels right against the jaws. Why was that? Also, could you have put a small center instead of a punch mark for that dead center trick? I dod some off center turning not long ago where the final assembly didnt go together quite as well as I had hoped on my first try. I figired it was likeky due to me not giving myself enough tolerancd to allow for variabces between all the parts, but now I'm wondering if putting the dead center in a hole left by a center drill was the mistake.
You said radii! Hallelujah! I’m so tired of sitting here screaming at the screen “the multiple of radius is NOT radiuses”! Thank goodness there is someone else out there that knows
None of my business I'm sure, but just curious, do you still work in the tech industry or is you tube your day job these days? I always enjoy and learn from your videos!
Great work, really starting to come along. I just hate to see all that shiny brass covered up. But that’s just me… Perhaps next video close with showing the boiler in place too
Excellent presentation. Thank you. You used the end mill to create flat spots so that you could center punch and then drill. Why not just just use the end mill and drill the needed hole? This is pretty soft material with a fairly short drill path.
[Tyrone just backed into Franky Four Fingers' van] Tyrone : I didn't see it there. Vinny : It's a four ton truck, Tyrone. Its not as if it's a packet of f*cking peanuts, is it? Tyrone : It was a funny angle. [All three turn and look back at the truck] Vinny : It's behind you Tyrone. Whenever you reverse, things come from behind you.
They are double-acting two stroke engines. Each side of the piston has intake/power and exhaust strokes, but as an external combustion engine there is no compression needed
Every stroke is a power stroke. So a two cylinder steam engine has the same number of power strokes per rotation as a V8 gasoline engine. Steam is extremely efficient.
FWIW, double acting Diesel engines have been constructed. Those engines too, used a "locked" piston rod, sealing gland, and cross head. For a deep dive into steam engine theory, check out Rankine cycle.
Hey Quinn, question for you. Do you find it's necessary to have drills that are ground specifically for brass, or do you just use the standard drills for it?
Drills are fairly inaccurate for hole size anyway, so I don't think it would require different cutting geometry as long as it still makes a hole. If it needs to be precise, you can always ream or bore it, but I think any drill will at least make a hole in it
Regular drills used on brass and bronze tend to grab and dig in. This can be dangerous, pulling the work out of the chuck or vise, etc. To avoid this, drills over about 3/16ths inch should have the cutting edge stoned parallel to the axis of the drill. This gives the drill a bit of zero or even negative rake. The drill will now not dig and grab. Convert a full set of drills this way and keep them separate. This is an important safety suggestion. Please take it seriously.
@@joshclark44 If the drill point is ground correctly, and it's running true, it will drill quite close to size, and not wander. Keep feedrate conservative, and use cutting oil.
Love your style of continuous narration. I learn important things every time, and you have a pleasant voice. I hate videos with all demonstration but zero explanation. I suspect those authors are not smart enough to speak in lucid sentences and not smart enough to run and edit voice overs.
