Great video series. I may try it. Question: how does this convert in terms of horsepower? In other words, if I buy a 6.5 hp predator engine, what horsepower steam engine would it likely be? I realize that depends on pressure and rpm to some degree, but what would it be running at optimal speed?
Thanks for the videos, very well done, I understand that the exhaust valve opens now every stroke, the intake valve is disabled and closed. The steam comes in the spark plug hole. What turns the steam off and on? There is no valve in the spark plug.
Nothing. It just flows, and you loose a little on the upstroke. I've tried many methods, and this one winds up the fastest. Much like a 2 stroke vs 4 stroke engine. A 2 stroke wastes gas, but they wind up quick because of the simpler design, and reduced mechanical drag.
Yes....at least on the Predator shafts. My first 3 engines were mig welded. It's way more work, and less 'reversible" if you make a mistake. Also, getting all the pimples of the shaft / gear is extremely important. The shafts I worked with were what I call "cast steel".....in between cast iron and mild steel. Migging it takes some pre-heat, and very slow cool cool down. I covered mine in sand. Otherwise you hear that dreaded "clink" as the weld spider web cracks. Maybe try a quick "dab' on part of the shaft that can be ground back down, but not a place that will warp it. Have fun, and thanks for watching!
hi nice video, i did exakt same on my lawnmower steam but after exploring steam engine theory in years i concluded that this is not practical at all. an steam engine even homemade need a sideways actuated camshaft with different lobes for different cutoff, say 10, 20 30 and 40% intake of the stroke in other words that can be shiftet sideways. if the intake steam just expand 180 degrees for the fuul stroke until exhaust open it wont expand at all= 0 % efficiency, steam need expand AT LEAST 4/5 of the stroke so the steam should be cut off after 20% of the stroke but even 1/5 of inlet open is leading to very poor efficiency under 5%, it should only expand for 1/10s of the stroke NOT more. longer inlet with steam before cut of is only need under heavy temporary loads/startup. sure u can use only on lobe for one cutoff setting say 15 % cutoff but then u cant vary the power. Even at 1/10 cutoff reaching of efficiency is hard around 8-10 % if proper conditions with uniflow with exhaust ports not more than 1/10 of the stroke. the key is high steampressure. Then u will get good power even with minor inlet openings but the steam need to expand very much, often a compaund uniflow is needed for those that are serious. im building my own steam car in very soon. a compaund uniflow. its a rebuilt honta VTX 1800 cc chopper engine. in V-2 formationit will be a boxer cvariant, one side is high pressure cyl and the other a very big piston. tripple the with in size to let the incoming steam expand. down to vacum with a vacum pump. with a monotube boiler. it will run on wood and waste oil/cooking oil burner. with a monotube boiler steam gets up to pressure in just minuits :) but for now im also up to build a lawnmover 13hp engine converted to steam that will power a little electric grid or moped. but it will ha a camshaft actuated sideways with different cutoffs. u cant build a serious steam engine without variabel cutoff. the engine will be released here on youtube in some years
Why can't u cut the cam into so when it goes down the intake opens and closes when it go's back up and let the other open up then closes and the other one opens
1- Is the steam engine 2 or 4 stroke? 2- Have you made any changes to the camshaft, also called valve timing? 2.1 Didn't you make any changes to the engine and just inject steam? 3- What is the pressure value in bars that makes the steam engine work?
Trust me I’m impressed, really, but I also have to ask: Is there a “proper” way to have a custom camshaft made? I mean there’s the hod rod guys who make race cams for V8’s, so there’s someone doing this right? Maybe they’re all preparing drawings for like just one remaining machining house doing this? It can’t be easy because of all the finishing, tolerances and metallurgy involved, but someone is doing this right?
Just regular brass rod. I've also mig welded them. The cast steel (not cast iron) barely accepts a mig weld, but it works if you cool it slowly. Brazing is far easier, and way more forgiving. If you mess up and want to start over, you can melt it off. Have fun!
I've mig welded several. Generally, the camshafts are cast steel....in between cast iron and mild steel. I've found that welding is far more messy and irreversible. I've welded for decades, but never tried tig, and can't really comment on it. If you can tig cast steel, then go for it!
No. The exhaust opens on every upstoke. You loose a tiny bit on the upstroke, but it is made up for in rpm and mechanical simplicity....much like a 2 stroke gas engine, or a turbine. It winds up very quick. RPM = HP
