Great comparison, I went with RCI aluminum plates on my 2020 Ford FX4 as I mostly drive desert trails in Az and same type of off-roading in Idaho/Montana. i don't do any rock crawling so I do like the weight savings.
I don't intentionally pound my 4runner. For me the armor is to deflect objects flung up into the underside. I prefer carefully picking a line that avoids damage rather than bulling my way through. Aluminum for me.
I just got done switching mine from aluminum to steel. I went with aluminum originally because I’m mostly a trail and not a rock crawler type driver. That said I do occasionally find myself on a rocky trail. What I didn’t understand is that unless you are willing to turn around (if you can that is) at the first sign of rock obstacles you are going to use your skid plates. Maybe not a lot but they will get used. And it doesn’t take much of a hit to damage an aluminum skid. While they will protect the underside, they will get bent up until they don’t fit well. The truck is just too heavy for aluminum. My advise now is if you are going to actually use your vehicle off road get steel. The weight difference is only 60-70 lbs. is just not enough to justify going with skids that will not last.
On my 2006 X I just went all steel as I tend to be a cheapskate. My truck gets real bad mileage so I really don't think anything but a lighter right foot has any noticeable effect on fuel economy or lack of it. I don't drop skids for oil change. I put a ball valve oil plug in engine and it has a hose barb on it so I attache a 1/2 inch hose and it is very neat and clean. In the radiator skid I made an aluminum trough that goes under the oil filter so all the oil goes out the access hole in the skid. I never flush trans. Scotty Kilmer's video on why just dump and fill is the best route is invaluable. I just suck the trans fluid out the fill tube with a big hypodermic with a 1/4 inch hose attached and refill. Thanks for your excellent videos.
i just installed the RCI aluminum skid packaged on my 2020 Tacoma. The truck is a work truck i drive around several rock quarries its more for a piece of mind then anything but i do occasionally hit the trail but i dont ever plan to actually take the truck rock crawling. So the weight savings was the big factor for me. If i run into issues down the road ill swap the front plate out for a steel plate and keep the trans and t-case as aluminum. Anything is an upgrade over the stock ones.
Good analysis and summary. I’ve bent my steel tcase skid on my JKU Rubi while rock crawling. An aluminum skid would’ve had awful results. You’re spot on too with the fact the aluminum will grab more. Unless one is seriously concerned about weight for some reason or really just a mall crawler in reality, steel is almost always the way to go with skids. Hit them with some rustoleum after every trip and you’ll be good for a very long time.
Thanks for the information. This is information you can’t find on the web. Valuable. I was looking to install my own skid plate for the purposes of protecting my catalytic converter on my 2019 Honda CR-V. Now it’s not a 4X4. Price wise, a catalytic converter shield or a skid plate will cost the about the same amount of money if I decide to pay a dealer for installing it. Thanks again the video help me out a lot.
Steel for me. it's amazing how many deep gouges there are, they definitely take a bashing. When I took them off after Soda Lake to re-powder coat , all of them went on smooth , Except the Radiator skid that needed some persuasion lol , Great Video as always
Looking at steel vs aluminum for my motorcycle. But in this case I actually am Looking at stainless steel. Seems the best of both worlds. Lighter than mild steel, less corrosion than aluminum, very rigid over time
Thanks for the comment! It seems to make a lot of sense on a motorcycle to strive to keep weight down. The polymer skid plates like AXP seem good, we have had great results on our dirt bikes.
@RogueOverland I prefer plastic, but only 1 company makes for mine and there are too many design flows to trust it. (I say that as a custom bike biulder) So for not I'll trust a stainless plate
You're a funny guy. Worrying about gas mileage on these trucks? Thanks for doing the review. I had heard about aluminum skids and didn't know the difference. You did a good job comparing and contrasting the two and I'm really happy I have steel plates. And I'm not even going to consider aluminum now.
lol..... we don't worry about MPGs but some people do. Glad you enjoyed the video. You'll be happy with the steel if you wheel! Thank you for watching!
Depending on the trails you go, weight will also be a factor. At last Installed steel skid as aluminium got stuck many times & bends, didn't worked well on Rocky trails
I liked your video but have a couple of comments. I'm not interested in Rock Crawling so I have leaned towards Aluminum for most but not all of my armor. I do have steel rock sliders, rear differentials skid, shock bottom skid, and lower link skid all steel. In your video you made it sound like all skid plates have to be removed to change the oil and that's not true some have access doors for the drain plug and filter like CBI and others. While wildy expensive I would have liked to hear you mention the Artec Industries 6061 grade Aluminum skids versus the industry standard grade 5052 Aluminum.
good info bro! For my Subaru I rarely ever take it off road anywhere. Mainly just like trails so I would like some protection but dont plan on going anywhere crazy with it since its my daily driver and still new lol.
Good info, was searching and found this video. This is the type of info I was looking for. Looking at a GXOR build and weight will be a factor, though I'm more concerned about weight up top than down low.
Just installed a steel engine skid the other day on my Xterra from Shrockworks. It mounted well, looks and feels solid. I haven't been on the trails with it yet but I think it will hold up great
In terms of areas where you have your oil or petroleum filter, you could actually do a circular cutout so you don’t have to keep removing the skid plate and also add vents for airflow and heat dissipation, irregardless of aluminium or metal.
I couldn’t get my phone loud enough, but then my phone speaker is crappy. I haven’t had problems on your other videos though. I don’t know what kind of terrain I have here where I live. I am saving for a truck. From looking at IG posts of local Toyota group it doesn’t look too technical where I’d need steel
With all the cat steals that are going around and likely to get worse as the drug issue gets worse, I went with steel. Grinding would take longer and be louder to get to them. :)
Get rid of the back seats and that will compensate for the weight difference. Then only take a 110lb hottie with you if you go out into the wild. more savings. i Think I will go with steel and maybe go with a combo of steel aluminum. either way, my back seats are out so I will just be adding that wight back and not much more. Thank you for your comparison video sir.
What about skid plates with service access holes? Is it a good idea or just go for a solid no service hole plate? It'll be for mild overlanding. Dirt roads possible uneven trails.
Service holes seem fine to us. Sometime the fluid gets all over the top side of the plate, so we usually just pull the skid plates when we do service anyway.
I went with the RCI steel plate set as more of a theft deterent against catyletic converter theft. I was told it covered and made these very difficult to access for theft. FALSE!!! The cars are fully easily accessible. I was curious. Other than cost, why isn't stainless steel used?
The amount of weight you are going to save on Immense protection is incomparable in my opinion. STEEL armor is the Only Way To Go. Save your weight on super heavy rack tents, chains, excessive camping gear etc..
I don't see how for 95% of people that steel skids aren't better suited. I do like aluminum for roof racks or bumpers as those aren't taking a beating and higher in relation to the center of gravity.
It is not that much of a weight difference at all,I Don't know where do you get specs from..,I checked all weights on rival site and for example the front plate under engine is 17kg steel vs 15alu , transmission 8,3kg vs 8kg , no info for transfer case,for fuel tank is 14kg vs 12kg ...I manage to find different design with the same coverage and strength for tank and is 8,8kg steel... so where do you get that numbers ...I use rival just for example because I'm from europe... and steel and alu are the same design 3mm steel vs 6mm alu... it is not even 8kg for whole set it is nothing...where do you get 60 pounds I don't know..,aluminum looks better when steel plates will get rusted ...I use dinitrol 482 for whole underbody ...even steel plates I covered them on the inside..and on the outside...you can reapply plates with spray in one minute every now en then..drive on the wooden diy ramps ,and lie on the trolley.,spray them and you are good...
The after market leaf pack is built 1000 lbs over stock. Depending on what’s packed for the trip it’s running around 800-1000lbs payload. Thanks for watching!
Aluminum totally a waste should of never even be maded. Sorry coming from a crawler world, find it funny for the price it's stupid for what its it.🤦♂️why?