Steel vs Aluminum Scuba Tanks - Which Should You Use? 

We agree!

Thank you for watching!

Great points! Will cover this in a future relaunch. Any topics we should cover next?

It’s not only the first 5 years. The “+” can be done every hydro. It just needs to pass the hydro with the requisite numbers to qualify for it.

Thanks for watching! Any videos you'd like to see next?

Some things he neglected to mention. Yeah, steel tanks can be lighter when you use high pressure cylinders, but you're going to need 300 bar DIN regulators in order to be able to use them. A yoke regulator will not fit on there, even with an adapter. If you have 300 bar DIN regulators (and you should) then you're good. If you're comparing Aluminum 80's with Steel 80's with the same pressure rating (i.e. the same physical size), then steel cylinders will be a lot heavier. Other differences: Steel cylinders have rounded bottoms, aluminum cylinders will have flat bottoms. So you can stand an aluminum cylinder upright. A steel cylinder will need a boot. Steel cylinders are painted, aluminum cylinders generally aren't.

Great additions! @@bloodymarvelous4790

In general, you want heavy tanks (more density) as it allow you to use less lead weight. So your overall weight on land doesn't really increase much. The lightest tanks are the carbon fibre reinforced ones. They'll float up to the surface. But then you need much more weights to pull them down. Theoretically, it lowers the center of gravity on backmounts by a lot, but it makes handling on land more cumbersome and they are significantly more expensive. Haven't tried them out.

@@divemasteraustin I have one unpainted aluminum and one painted (powdercoated) cylinder. Both of my steel cylinders are hot dipped galvanized. I have a yoke to din adapter but I prefer to just switch out my regulator to yoke or din depending on what bottles I'm diving at the time.