The gray pipe going to and from the valves are irrigation risers (also know as nipples), similar to schedule 80 irrigation pipe, but not technically schedule 80. We like using the risers because they come threaded, so at each connection into the valve there is one fewer glued joint, which is one fewer place to potentially leak. Schedule 80 pipe works well for this purpose as well. Both of these gray irrigation pipes are considered to be UV stable, meaning they will not degrade in sunlight and become weak and brittle like white PVC will, which is technically only for use in applications where it is buried / not exposed to sunlight. Schedule 80 might only be available from speciality landscape supply stores, but 3/4" risers / nipples of varying lengths are usually available at both landscape supply stores and big box hardware stores. THIS IS VERY DIFFERENT THAN PVC EMT pipe!! EMT pipe is meant to protect electrical wires and is MUCH THINNER than irrigation pipe which must stand up to being under pressure and deal with pressure fluctuations without leaking. Electrical conduit pipe should never be used for conveying water.
Hi I just put bubblers in the front of my house and I got one vavle watering the backyard and the front but when I go to turn one the vavle the front hardly has any water pressure and suggestions
Great comment. You are absolutely correct, it would make future replacements easier. When installing a manifold from scratch, I'd definitely use a union. For this one, we were trying to keep the already long video as simple as possible. Also, for those just getting into plumbing, installing a union into a retrofit creates multiple other potential spots for leaks if all is not aligned and tightened correctly. If we do another valve installation or swap video in the future we will add that step! Thanks for they input!
Thank you for the detailed video. Now I want to try this myself. One question about at 11:30 mark: why do you need to make two cuts, particularly I’m not understanding why the cut on the horizontal pipe is needed? Couldn’t you connect the new gray riser to the existing vertical pvc connection? Thanks!
Hi! You could do that, however, since white PVC is not UV stable, and over time will degrade and become brittle when exposed to sunlight, this is the perfect chance to connect the pressure regulating filter, then attach a grey PVC nipple (also called a riser). The grey pipe is considered "UV stable" and will not weaken in the sun like white PVC.
Your video is outstanding. I now feel like I can take this project on myself. I have a similar antisiphon valve set up. Will I need to use backflow preventers at each sprinkler riser on the zone or does the antisiphon valve for the zone prevent backflow? This is something that seldom is addressed in all of the great info out there about converting to a drip system.
Hello. If installed at the right height, the antiphon valve will prevent back flow. If for some reason, you cannot install as designed with the height of the valve at least 6" above the highest sprinkler when in operation, a back flow preventer somewhere else in the zone could be an option.
Hi Alex. We'd love to know more details. While the video does not show wiping up the pipe to make a "pretty" looking finish, we believe the glueing to be perfectly functional. However, there is always more to learn. Might you be willing to take a moment to let us know how you would have done it differently and what about it makes you anxious? Thanks!
Would have been nice if you specify what area you are referring too. This would be unacceptable in area which has freezing temperatures. No mention of each valve requiring check valve to avoid siphoning of water back in to domestic water. Not sure why one antisiphon valve would’ be acceptable for. Entire system ? Also no mention of how all these zones are connected Thur the manifold which is buried underground. Should mention how all these zones are connected The valves are surrounded via a mulch no explanation as to why a mulch is necessary? Great to have a lot detail but. Not giving an over explanation of the basics is also important If you are going to hand tighten all threaded connections would be nice to say why you would not use wrench to do this. Everyone would use a pipe wrench hand tightened seems like you are forgetting without again no explanation. Too much discussion of minor details . Also not mentioning that glue and primer are highly toxic and gac respirator and safety glass and gloves are recommended
Hello William, I'm sorry this video was confusing to you. It was created to provide answers to the most common questions we get when people in our area are transitioning to drip irrigation. Your comments are well taken, and will be used to improve our videos in the future. The anti-siphon valves have the built-in check function which is all that is needed in our area to prevent siphoning issues. Much of this confusion, I believe, is due to regional differences, so thank you. I will add a note to the description that this is intended for areas that do not freeze and where anti-siphon valves are used. We are based in low-elevation southern California, where lines do not freeze, and the vast majority of residential properties do not have back flow preventers for the entire property, so each valve must be an "anti-siphon valve" which must be installed elevated as shown here, and not buried in a valve box. Electrical remains exposed as well (and is very low voltage), so as long as proper outdoor wire nuts are used, as demonstrated, this is proper. We recommend hand tightening threaded connections to begin with because we find that far more homeowners will over tighten and damage connections, cause leaks, and ruin parts if we start with recommending using tools. Filters are not required on all lines. In our area, which gets water supplied though a city or special district water retailer, sprinkler zones generally do not need filters, so this video is specifically created to support people moving from standard sprinkler systems, which would not have a filter in most cases, over to a drip system, which would require a filter like this.
Really lacked explanation as to the how system is set up no over where lines run Very confusing! No explanation as why things are done. Filter ? None of other lines have a filters? Also all valves exposed including electrical. I was always told valves need to be in valve boxes. Also the valves no protection for freezing. Also hand tightening lines? Just away to make sure they will leak. Waiting several minutes to look for leaks will not make sure of no leaks need to tighten properly!
Hi William. Sorry this was confusing to you. We have received lots of other good feedback from people fining this video helpful. Much of this confusion, I believe, is due to regional differences, so thank you. I will add a note to the description that this is intended for areas that do not freeze and where anti-siphon valves are used. We are based in low-elevation southern California, where lines do not freeze, and the vast majority of residential properties do not have back flow preventers for the entire property, so each valve must be an "anti-siphon valve" which must be installed elevated as shown here, and not buried in a valve box. Electrical remains exposed as well (and is very low voltage), so as long as proper outdoor wire nuts are used, as demonstrated, this is proper. We recommend hand tightening threaded connections to begin with because we find that far more homeowners will over tighten and damage connections, cause leaks, and ruin parts if we start with recommending using tools. Filters are not required on all lines. In our area, which gets water supplied though a city or special district water retailer, sprinkler zones generally do not need filters, so this video is specifically created to support people moving from standard sprinkler systems, which would not have a filter in most cases, over to a drip system, which would require a filter like this.
Thank you for the comment / correction. I absolutely misspoke when recording the video, and will note the error in the description and eventually re-edit to correct. I appreciate you taking the time to comment!
