Step by step guide // Learn how to build Kitchen cabinets fast! 

Lol definitely use glue! 👍🏻

Awesome! Love hearing how people save money and do it themselves!

This is awesome! So glad I could help 👍🏻

@@eastcarolinawoodworks for real bro. I’ve been woodworking for 20 years or so. You changing the game. Keep them coming! 🤙

That’s awesome! Glad I could help 🤙🏼

Thanks for the great feedback 👍🏻

However it gets in the way of working on your counters. Really depends where they are mounted and what work is being done below them.

I screw it to the wall. Underneath the cabinet where the cutout is I place screws and up top in the cabinet. Super simple and easy! 👍🏻

Thanks you 👍🏻

I completely agree! Thanks for the feedback 👍🏻

Thanks for the great feedback 👍🏻

Typical base cabinets are 24 inches deep and 36 inches high. As he stated Typically upper cabinets are 12 inches deep but he prefers 14, the height is determined by the ceiling height or how high you want your cabinets. The width of the cabinets are determined by the space you are building the cabinets for, each job is different, you divide the space by the number of cabinets. I noticed you're building cabinets in your shop so this should make sense.

@@VAFSH4LIF thank you for the info.

@@bobproulx6621 anytime. I'm a carpenter of 40 years and install a lot of cabinets vs building them. As I stated each scenario is unique to itself, kitchen vs bathroom vs shop. I would recommend for a shop determine the exact use for each cabinet. Will it have all drawers or will it have doors? The other thing you want to keep in mind is you're working with 4 x 8 plywood, you want to maximize the cabinet size while minimizing waste. I would recommend finding some videos on that very subject. Good Luck in your new hobby there's a world of knowledge at your fingertips.

Too*

@@MrNateJSutton🙄

Hi, I'm currently building my first set of kitchen cabinets and I decided to go with mdf, it has a very smooth surface. It has its cons like anything

Thanks for the sub! And no I didn’t forget I usually do them on site and let the customer determine where they want the shelves. Not a huge fan of shelf pin holes all the way up the sides of cabinets. Awesome to see a local nearby! 👍🏻

Pocket holes don’t really matter inside or out. If the upper cabinet is going to be between cabinets you can put them on the outside that way they aren’t inside the cabinet. Also the foreman has to be stuck out slightly because it is inline with my miter fence so I can do pocket holes on long pieces. Hope this helps 👍🏻

Very good question! That’s exactly how I use to do it but realized pocket hole screws cost more and you really only have to fill holes on the end cabinets that will be seen. It takes about roughly 10-15 more pocket screws per cabinet and depending on how many you have to build can add up. But by all means you can certainly do it with pocket holes all round 👍🏻

Thank you! And yes I did 👍🏻

Depends on the customer. 90% of the customers don’t even care but when I do I use dowels or the pocket hole plugs 👍🏻

I use 3/4 maple ply 👍🏻

I usually drill shelf pin holes for shelves once cabinet is installed on-site. That way I can get a good location where the client wants them. Not a huge fan of shelf pin holes top to bottom I like the more custom look 👍🏻 thanks for subscribing and glad you enjoyed!

I usually do this once cabinet is onsite and installed. Just because I’m not a fan of shelf pin holes top to bottom. Instead I like the client to tell me where they want shelves and I’ll add a few for adjustability 👍🏻

Moving forward I’ve tried to dial back the music some but thanks for the feedback and I’m glad you enjoy my channel 👍🏻

All great questions! For the drawer bottoms I just like being able to slide in and out makes it easier during assembly. Plus if you do Undermount drawer slides you will have to do it this way or cut notches. Also for the brad nails on the bottom of the cabinet I don’t worry about it because it is glued. Also the bottom shelf is tied in the face frame with glue as well so it’s rock solid and not going anywhere 👍🏻 hope this answers your questions 😎

4” sewer pipe and no I don’t have plans for it but I’ve been asked several times so I think I will make plans soon 👍🏻

@@eastcarolinawoodworks Thanks for the info! Great advice looking forward to your video on the outfeed table!

Really depends on the job and customer. Sometimes I find it easier to do on site so I know where and what the customer is going to put in them so I can drill my holes accordingly. I’m not a huge fan of drilling holes top to bottom inside the cabinet. I like drilling sets of 3-5 in locations where they want them for some adjustability. Looks more custom especially when there is glass doors 👍🏻

@@eastcarolinawoodworks thank you

Most of the time clients don’t even pay it attention but if I need to cover them I’ll make my own plugs with dowels and that usually gives me great results! 👍🏻

@@eastcarolinawoodworks thank you for the reply :).

Typical overhang is 1/4” and I screw my cabinets together through the face frame. I don’t screw the actual carcass’s together. Hope this helps! 👍🏻

@@eastcarolinawoodworks I'm interested in your response here, what do you mean with from the face frame? how do you do it? you put holes in the face frame upside or something? and if there is a difference in the space between two cabinets because of the face frame, doesn't that get seen from the downside of the cabinets? like a separation space between them? sorry, english is not my language!

I’m using t track and I just made a wooden stop but I’m in the process of designing a a better top block 👍🏻

@@eastcarolinawoodworks can't wait to see what you come up with. Share a vid or some pics!

It’s the festool midi dust extractor that I’m using and the hose it comes with! 👍🏻

@@eastcarolinawoodworks thank you

Not necessarily I screw my cabinet together through the face frames. There are multiple ways to build uppers this is just how I do it 👍🏻

I wonder the same thing. Building cabinets today. Came to the comments to see how to deal with that space between the cabinets, the result of the face frame overhang

Mostly visualize but if it’s complex I’ll take it to sketchup 👍🏻

Love it 👌🏻

No I would get a vertical panel saw. I’m getting a 50x30 added to my shop soon so I will definitely be getting one 👍🏻

@@eastcarolinawoodworks Well congratulations on the success your having which is allowing for the addition to your shop. My reason for the questions, was that my son is also in the cabinet business here in Florida. His background is the building business, I was in the home building business for more than 45 years. That said, he was always attracted to the finish end of the business. He is a Florida state licensed building contractor, but his speciality is kitchen and bathroom remodeling and additions, primarily for kitchen remodels. He started his cabinet building business about 20 years ago in a small shop, and of coarse that limited the equipment he had. After a few years he moved to a new building with about 800 SF plus an office he really didnt need. 2 years later he moved within the same complex into 2 of the same units side by side. Even then, he was very limited as for space requirements necessary for buying material in larger quantities which result in better profit margins. But even more than that he was limited with the amount of and the size of the equipment he was able to use. For example, how do you drill the holes for the shelves in your cabinets? You use face frame cabinets primarily because you dont have an edge banding machine, and lack the required space to have one. And, hand edge banding is very time consuming. But, the Euro style cabinets will make you more competitive, and you can still offer the face frame cabinets to those who prefer them at an up charge. With an edge bander and a good saw setup you alone will do all the cutting and all the edge banding for a large kitchen in one day. As for the saw, There are 2 large rack saws worth considering. One is the Streibig and the other is the Holzher, both are very expensive new and not easy to find used. I would suggest calling Holzher in NC, they are a first class company to work with. About 5 years ago my son bought a 4000 sq ft shop that had been a cabinet shop. The owner had become very ill and has since died. The only piece of machinery worth saving was the large Striebig rack saw and the Oniada dust collection system. He traded the unusable edge bander for an older Holzher, which he is still using. Learn to service your own machinery, thats very important, and another reason to work with Holzher. He rather recently bought a new Grizzley sliding table saw also. Both the rack saw and the sliding table saw are used for the cutting process, and both work very well for that. He prefers using the rack saw for the long cuts, but the sliding table saw for all the others. He can also do long straight line rips on the table saw, pretty much eliminating the need for the jointer. So both saws have certain advantages. Neither of his saws are the programable type, and both have large 3 phase motors. When you build your new shop, be sure to wire it for 3 phase power. You will also cut your planer time by at least half, and have better results as well with a good planer with the right cutter head.

Depends on the client. Some don’t care cause it’s inside the cabinet. But if they do I fill them 👍🏻

@@eastcarolinawoodworks Ty you keep up good work

I usually do 3” at the top and 1.5” at the bottom 👍🏻

I’m sorry. I meant what size nails. Length and guage?

I’m not a fan of having holes top to bottom inside the cabinet. I let the client tell me how many shelves they want and where they want them and then I’ll drill a few holes above and below the shelf for some adjustability!

I use 1 1/4” kreg screws for 3/4” material 👍🏻

Well it just depends. There’s a lot of factors that play into it. This cabinet had an exposed end that would be painted so I moved the pocket holes to the inside. Pocket holes on the inside don’t affect most clients 👍🏻

Sure can! 👍🏻

1 3/4”…I make the top rail 3” 👍🏻

Really just depends on the size of the cabinet. Typically lower cabinets are bigger and so the 1/4 makes it lighter and easy to move around and better cost effective. Uppers depending on the job aren’t as big and from a building standpoint I don’t dado the uppers so this makes it easy to assemble. However when I do have big uppers I will dado a 1/4 panel in the back just like the lowers.

I usually break edges by hand when doing edge banding 😁

😂

I use 1 1/4” pocket screws and 1 1/2 wood screws 👍🏻

@@eastcarolinawoodworks thank you Sir

Depends on the ceiling height. I usually like to take my cabinets all the way up to the ceiling

1 1/4” pocket screws 👍🏻

Depends on the cabinet. If it has exposed sides I put the pocket holes on the inside. If the cabinet is in between other cabinets I put them on the outside 👍🏻

speed, I'm sure

Unfortunately I don’t sorry 😢

Depends on the customer…some don’t care but for those who do instead of pocket holes I just glue and clamp the face frame on 👍🏻

I don’t drill for shelves until on site. Not a fan of having holes top to bottom. Also that’s just the way this contractor operates. He likes buying the material and I still charge a percentage for shop supplies on top of labor. I like not having to worry about buying material. I just tell him what I need and he orders it 👍🏻. And for the pocket holes on the inside I’ll fill with dowels. This was just a video on building it not finishing it. You would be surprised though most customers wouldn’t say a word about pocket holes.