Sorry I’m late to the party but I have a question. Is the 2U key cap using two electrically connected switches or is one of the switches disconnected and only present to add stability? Also, if a single switch has a 50g actuation force, does using two make it 100g of force? (Been long time since I took physics😂)
You can make it either way but I have made one of the switches a complete dummy - it just has a slider and does not even contain the contacts (which add something to the force). Also, instead of the original spring, I have used two lighter springs to preserve the characteristics of the original switch.
The block you pull out of the green silicone mold and then machine your master from. What material is it? Oh...And same question for the white parts you machine. I thought delrin, but isn't that too porous? Oh...And great work btw. Those keycaps look incredible.
@@keymacs Thanks. If you don't mind me asking. Machining the top part of the keycap from resin and the bottom part from delrin. What's the reasoning behind that? Is it the cost of the delrin (POM)?
@@5eeeeeb5 POM is more durable but it is not good at preserving fine detail especially if your end mills are not super-sharp (the edges may be fuzzy). This is not an issue for the mount. In contrast, for the legend, you want sharp edges and the PU is excellent at preserving details. Since the base is cast as a copy of the master, you in fact machine into the exact duplicate of the keycap base. With POM, I would have to machine a new base from a solid block-too much work.
@@nooooooooooooooooooo Since there is no stabiliser present, the normal profile key would bind slightly on the off-center presses. The top of the dish is intentionally smaller to prevent presses too far from the center. This is like the keys on the old Model F keyboards.
