Hey i just wanted to let Mr.Heath know these videos are perfect to watch when im in my basment shop on a coffee break. I always try to buy vintage tools (hand and machinery) for my shop , "Atlas" seems to be have been popular in buffalo back in the day. Ive got a pre1940s 15 inch drill press and ...dont laugh 8 inch tablesaw (perfect for finish plywood honestly) on my vintage side ... I just love the quality myself. Please keep making videos!
Thanks for watching, Andrew. Glad you like what you are seeing. I have an 8" 1949 table saw, and it's fantastic for anything up to 2" thick. I restored it, and it has been my jobsite saw for years, although certainly a lot heavier than those plastic crappers.
I do have a question , i am married and have a 6 year old daughter, how do you juggle work and a family and your own shop and still keep everyone happy?
I bought this grinder last summer. I paid $500, I need to set up the grinder because it was in pieces, I got some parts from Sterling. Their service is fantastic.
Those Sterling grinders are great, my previous employer had one at the shop and I used it from grinding everything from 90* spot drills to 135* drill points for use in stainless steel. The only thing I want to add is when setting it up, make sure you have "two matches" on the settings. 1st, your grinder angle matches your sheetmetal blades(perch?) and 2nd, your drill diameter matches both on the scale and the dial. On drills that were abused, I would just touch on th Sterling grinder for a reference and then rough it in on a belt sander. ( go back and forth as many times as needed ). That reduced time on the grinder. Nice "get" Jeff. Jeff
Nice demonstration Jeff. I have one of these also that I picked up at auction for low bucks but it was completely frozen up with rust and gobs of paint. I did a total break down and refurbished the entire unit. I had to purchase some stuff from McDonough to complete it. Parts were $$$ but it's nice they are still in business. I need to spend a few hours sharpening a drawer full of bits.
They are really nice machines. Parts, in general, for USA manufacturers are always more money, but we don't work for sub-existence wages here, and we shouldn't have to, so I don't mind. I don't buy chinese stuff for this reason alone. I got a good deal on this one, compared to what they sell for on ebay and machinist forums, but I still paid up for it, getting it for a little under a grand. I'm happy. I've saved a ton of money refurbishing old, busted up drills to build up my drill collection. Thanks for watching.
Agreed...we work hard. I buy quality tools, and I know you do, too. Most of the time, I get this stuff dirt cheap, because so many are afraid..."It's too heavy!!" or "I don't have 3 phase." Perfect....more for me, and cheaper too.
Hi Jeff, your machine do have a three phase motor and should be spinning counterclockwise. By doing this, all the grinding sparkles will be going down and not to your face. You can either make or buy the wheel face guard (DB62-1) which is missing and will protect you. Regards.
New to your channel, just looked up new price for a 1 3/4" #4 Morse Taper bit, Cleveland , $560 from MSC, I thought you were a little low on price estimate, $13 for that bit is more than a good deal.....I am very jealous.....cheers form Central Florida, Paul...
Hi Jeff, from Australia, great commentary and instruction. I came across the Sterling whilst looking for a Lisle but it seems a much easy unit to operate. I’m sure you said they are still making them, do you have any idea of the cost for a newbie unit……shipping would be the killer. Anyway, thanks again, subscribed as enjoyed your format
