Installation of the Rubrail for this 1959 Boston Whaler begins as well as reattaching the center console. The bow light gets installed and we hide the wiring.
I did my rub rail today using your method. By myself having 5 clamps the stiffness of the rail cannot be overstated. Do not even attempt this without a heat gun. I used screws supplied with the rail and think maybe rivets would have been better. I also used cinch clamps the pistol grip type fast to close and at bow I set far side with a screw half way in just to hold it in place due to bow not having much of a ridge to grab with clamp. The hammer was a good trick too. Thanks for your video it inspired me to tackle this myself. I took 4 hours doing job.
I just bought a 72 13' whaler in good condition and have watched your videos to learn how to do some minor repairs. They are a great help. Since I am a neophyte in the boat world, I'd like more info on the products you use and how to use them. Can't wait to see your finished product.
Can't wait to see the video of you trying to replace bow light. LOL...5200. Dang..that's for things below the waterline and that you NEVER want to remove!
Looking good. Just so you know for next time, there is an area behind the light to keep some extra wire and even make your connections. That way you have the ability to replace the bulbs. The way you have it set up now you can't remove the fixture to replace the bulb because you have the wire pulled tight and sealed in with 5200.
Okay to use clamp wire connectors I suppose, but my dad taught me, wires that vibrate while in use, SOLDER the connections and heat shrink tubes over the wires. Will never have a loose connection during water vibration and use. Just my 2 cents.
You speak about screwing. My former repairman screwed the rubrail directly into the gunwale with visible screws.When I screamed, just before changing boatyard, his son hid the screws inside a rubrail groove and hammered all back, still screws and no PVC riveted rail. @lgallant's tutorial is precious.
@@RobertoPizzala I ended up screwing the pvc rail and then pressure fit the black rub rail. All seemed to work out pretty well. Im now in the process of wiring up the 13 which I hope to have done soon.
Leo, Hope you're still checking these comments. I live in the upstate of SC (Pickens) and notice you are in Greenville. I connected with you years ago on Linkedin, so if I don't get an answer here, I'll try that. Anyway, just curious about the type of rivets. My kit did not come with rivets, but on searching the recommendation is a 3/16 D x 2-3/8"L. One place recommended a "0.751- 0.875 grip range". What is this and is it important on selecting rivets?
The rivets only go through the hard plastic to attach it to the gunwale. Then you just squeeze the black rubber into the receiver grooves in the hard plastic and it stays in place.
+Leo Gallant thank you for the response. I ended up figuring it out once I got my rub rail and watched your video again. your video was very helpful with my rubrail install on my 17' whaler
Question: at 3:36, on the gunwale above the drill there is a dark, rectangle shaped. Can you tell me what that is? My whaler has it as well and I can't figure out what it is. I'm getting ready to gelcoat and paint the boat and I don't want to cover it if it is something I may eventually need. Thanks in advance!
That is the slot for the oar locks, definitely don't want to glass or gelcoat over. Mine has the brass insert, hole in middle of it is where you insert the oar locks. The other 2 hole are for brass screws.
Hi Raymond, I ordered mine (by recommendation) from Sue Lodel at Twin Cities Marine in Wisconsin. All the whaler forums recommend her. She was very helpful and had lots of stock and best prices. suetcmarine@lakefield.net
All lovely and impressive, but disappointing that you didn't do a thorough job of the back of the transom - not just the cracks. Mottled and ugly at the back there. Freaking me out!
